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Vent Boost Gauge (Digital Led Bars & numerics)


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The harness was pretty long -- a few feet longer than it needed to be. I can see if I can take the dash apart to measure exactly at some point. Funny story, though. I cut a hole in the grommet around the harness that goes through the center-right of the firewall (as opposed to the far right one) to run the boost line and the pressure sensor wire through. I didn't really cut it big enough, so it was a little hard to get through. I did fine with the boost line, but when I tried to pull the pressure sensor wire farther into the cabin, it snagged at the solder joints and the wire broke. :spin: I ended up managing to strip both ends and re-solder, and I was lucky that you decided to solder red to red, white to white, and black to black, rather than trying to use the green wire. But, advice for people doing this in the future -- that wire is fragile! Be careful! :lol:

 

I set the low pressure alarm today. Maybe you could implement something that allows you to press a button to override the alarm until the gauge loses power? I had the ignition on without having the engine running while I was playing around with the gauge settings, and the alarm is pretty annoying when the car is like that. I know you're not supposed to keep the car like that for any amount of time because it's bad for the coils, but I occasionally do it when I'm running Learning View, clearing codes, loading a new map on my ECU, etc. It would be nice to be able to temporarily cancel the alarm in that situation.

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$1000 :eek: for 1.04 version, ouch. Looks like a killer product but the price point will be tough for a lot of us. May still look into the lesser version. Any chance of adding a few features to the lesser version as a good compromise?

 

 

i just looked and it says $1000 for the v1.04 ...the regular isnt up there for sale (at least i didnt see it)

 

I think it was around $200-$250

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Beta testers get special coupon codes to bring the price down. The actual gauge will still be $258 AFAIK (lossol, correct me if I'm wrong).

 

Report from today: a couple of times, I went to check boost peaks, and they took a couple seconds to load. Any reason for that? Also, would it be possible to turn off the aux plots on the boost peaks? I find the boost profile is really all I want to see 99% of the time.

 

I found some of the settings I chose the other day to be really annoying. Luckily, I could change them back. ;) My fuel economy has gone down since I got the gauge, though, because I keep on trying to get the peaks as high as possible. It's a really expensive game. :lol:

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Beta testers get special coupon codes to bring the price down. The actual gauge will still be $258 AFAIK (lossol, correct me if I'm wrong).

 

Correct!

 

Report from today: a couple of times, I went to check boost peaks, and they took a couple seconds to load. Any reason for that?

 

Did the gauge say "wait" in the vac screen? It probably did, you have to wait for the boost profile to complete before loading. meaning if you stab the throttle, then request peak immediately, the gauge is waiting for the 5 or 10 second profile to complete.

 

Also, would it be possible to turn off the aux plots on the boost peaks? I find the boost profile is really all I want to see 99% of the time.

 

Currently there is no option to shut this off other than disabling the aux input. Out of curiosity what does the oil pressure plot look like during boost? Steady?

 

Someone mentioned fast and jumpy oil pressure readout, did that slow down with the digital update configuration setting?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefultonhow

. My fuel economy has gone down since I got the gauge, though, because I keep on trying to get the peaks as high as possible. It's a really expensive game.

haha I'm glad I'm not the only one

 

me too! I blame it on testing though.

VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com
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For us Beta tester with the first VBG1, can we get the updated software loaded on it?

 

I've experience a couple things with mine, being in -30 cold, and having heat at full blast in the vent, sometimes the buttons wont work, I'll have to shut the car off and restart to reset the gauge!

 

Is that normal Andy?

 

Thanks,

JP

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Andy, the temp sensor wire is too short, the grommet above the turbo would be too hot for the wire so the logical location would be entry next to the vacuum line.

 

Would it be possible to get an extension wire for the sensor? Or where/what would I use or get?

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I've experience a couple things with mine, being in -30 cold, and having heat at full blast in the vent, sometimes the buttons wont work, I'll have to shut the car off and restart to reset the gauge!

 

Is that normal Andy?

 

I looked at my records, looks like you have version 1.02. Back then buttton re-calibration was done a little differently, so I'm not surprised you might get lock-up under extream conditions of humidity/temp swings. In version 1.03a I think all of that was fixed so even if it locks up. it will un-lock it self. within 20 secs or so.

 

The vent is a harsh place for this thing, but it's just part of the challenge to make it look good and work.

 

Firmware upgrades for beta testers. Sure, whenever your ready, PM me, send it back, and I will get you the latest loaded up. If you want a new sending unit (for aux sensor temp or oil press) that will be extra, but if you just want the display unit re-programed...free for beta testers.

 

I ran my temp sensor through the firewall here. firewall.jpg.a7a2eb3d5d80ec6e6c6855a66ddfb2cc.jpg I guess that is not an option for manual transmissions. How much longer do you think you need it to be? I standard 4 conductor 2.5 mm audio extender should work, the 4 conductor versions are harder to find, I will need to order a 3 conductor and check compatibility, it think it will work fine because of the pinout of the sensor.

 

If the 3 conductor works my only other concern is where that extension connection resides. My guess is your going to say the fender, if so, it could be a bad place for a connection unless you seal it up well.

VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com
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Did the gauge say "wait" in the vac screen? It probably did, you have to wait for the boost profile to complete before loading. meaning if you stab the throttle, then request peak immediately, the gauge is waiting for the 5 or 10 second profile to complete.

 

Yeah, that's what it said. The explanation makes sense.

 

Currently there is no option to shut this off other than disabling the aux input. Out of curiosity what does the oil pressure plot look like during boost? Steady?

 

I'll need to check that out at some point.

 

Someone mentioned fast and jumpy oil pressure readout, did that slow down with the digital update configuration setting?

 

It's still pretty fast, just not quite as much so. I'm not sure if I've gotten used to reading it or what. It's interesting to see what the pressures are in various conditions. For example, I get an alarm if I'm on the throttle and then push the clutch in to come to a stop, which means the pressure is going below 20psi in that situation. Doesn't happen during shifting. I'm pretty sure this is not a bug in the gauge, but I'm wondering if this is normal for these engines. I'm not sure anyone else would know, because I don't think there are very many other gauges that have this kind of feature, if any.

 

It's also a testament to the customizability of the gauge that some settings (e.g. peak storage for anything above 2psi, and displaying peaks for 15 sec) really annoy me, while others (5psi, 5 sec) are just perfect.

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I ran my temp sensor through the firewall here. [ATTACH]97463[/ATTACH] I guess that is not an option for manual transmissions. How much longer do you think you need it to be? I standard 4 conductor 2.5 mm audio extender should work, the 4 conductor versions are harder to find, I will need to order a 3 conductor and check compatibility, it think it will work fine because of the pinout of the sensor.

 

If the 3 conductor works my only other concern is where that extension connection resides. My guess is your going to say the fender, if so, it could be a bad place for a connection unless you seal it up well.

that's where I plan on entering the car. I was thinking it will run all the way around the back of the engine bay, along the fender and into the airbox. I haven't measured it specially but an extra 5ft wouldn't hurt. Always better to have too much than too little ;)

 

Let me know if the 3-conductor one will work, I think I should be able to get one here.

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I have a few suggestions :

* can we get a white LED marker at the 0psi vacuum mark? :)

* ability to turn off OLED but keep the bar LEDs on. Something like a second blackout function?

* ability to set OLED timeout to 0 seconds, i.e. Just turn on for boost activity and turn off straight after

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No, this is the screen saver on v1.04 firmware. You can set it to automatically turn off the OLED displays after 1 or more minutes. The LEDs stay on when it switches off the displays, and the displays come back on when you go into boost.
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i think tangcla is talking about a permanent OLED off but LED on function. So you just have the LEDs sweeping all the time, but no OLED, even in boost. I wouldn't mind that either... maybe push a button to wake up the OLED screen.
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I have done some testing. The 4 conductor should work fine as an extension. The 3 conductor is electrically compatible but is not recommended, because the contact locations could be non-ideal and cause intermittent connections. I will ship all the new temp sensors with 10ft 3 conductor 2.5 mm plugs. I will also carry a 6ft extension for the temp sensor as an option.
VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com
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