tangcla Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 I was even glad to see that lossol has the vaccuum tubing and T-fitting for the boost guage. I tested that too the vacuum tubing is the hard nylon stuff so it's a bit difficult to work with. It'd be nice if it was rubber (or even silicon! ) but the T-pieces are perfect. They are made of metal, not the cheap plastic ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 Misfire, Thanks for posting the pics. Yup - it's definitely upside down. Your replacement display unit is already in the mail, I will need the original back for failure analysis -Packaging is included and postage is pre-paid and this package can be mailed from any USPS drop-off location including mailboxes. Hopefully we can figure out what went wrong so this doesn't happen again, sorry for the troubles. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 I don't think I even need to ask this, but has anyone had any accuracy issues with the boost measurement on this gauge? I have had it installed for a few weeks and it has helped me identify a bit of an overboosting issue with my Stage 2 tune. There are random times while boosting where I will hit peaks of 19-21psi in all gears, which is too high for my comfort. I contacted my tuner about it and he blamed it on a "poor boost gauge", which I thought was quite an accusation. I haven't seen any complaints in this thread about accuracy so I highly doubt that. Though my experience with this tuner has been somewhat disappointing and very impersonal. I've been trying to data log to confirm the boost peaks I am seeing are accurate, but naturally every time I log, the car runs and boosts perfectly. So far I've only confirmed that the readings on the gauge have been pretty close to the data logs, within .3psi at the worst. That kind of variance does not account for the random 2-3psi "overboosting" (for lack of a better term) that I experience. Just thought I would throw this out there and confirm. It is probably time for a dyno protune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Im having similar issues with my RHD one, but i think thats because it is not wired up to the correct accessory power. I ordered up an add a circuit fuse holder to tap into the IGS power circuit so that should solve my problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 I do have it hooked up to the 'IG2' fuse on my 08 spec b with an 'add a circuit'., with a T fitting next to the BPV ziptied at every connection. The local shop didn't have vacuum hose as small as I desired, so it took a couple tries getting the larger hose (which roughly the same size as the existing hoses) ziptied tight enough to prevent the whistle, otherwise all connections seem solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 biodtl, as long as the gauge is hooked up correctly, which it sounds like it is...I'm pretty sure the 2-3 PSI over boost is real. The VBG1 has a very fast update rate (10+ Hz) , and the peak boost is latched at that rate...so really any fast transients of boost pressure will be captured at that rate and stored as peak. I guess the thing to remember is that the peak which is latched may be for as little as one sample which equates to about 1/10th of a second. If it is longer you should be able to see it in your logs or in the boost profile blot. Thanks for comparing it to your logs, they match and that is a good thing. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I was just at the performance shop I use getting my ECU flashed (VB line pressure increase for 5eat). One of the guys there now wants the VBG1 for his race car after seeing it in action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 im having no look with this gauge, i hooked it up to the IG2 power , i started my car and now abs and check engine light are on! Not sure why that happened!, must check the ecu and see if there is ant obvious error codes showing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 LegacyDan - I think this has been resolved for you but I just wanted to clarify for anyone watching on the forum. The problem is most likely due to the fact that there are two fuse locations in a fuse tap like shown: One is for the original circuit (in your case - IG2, which when un-powered will cause the CEL to go off and other various fun lights warning you somthing is wrong) the other is for the tapped circuit. You will need to provide another fuse for the tapped circuit. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 LegacyDan - I think this has been resolved for you but I just wanted to clarify for anyone watching on the forum. The problem is most likely due to the fact that there are two fuse locations in a fuse tap like shown: [ATTACH]92948[/ATTACH] One is for the original circuit (in your case - IG2, which when un-powered will cause the CEL to go off and other various fun lights warning you somthing is wrong) the other is for the tapped circuit. You will need to provide another fuse for the tapped circuit. yep exactly, seems to have solved my issues with it alright, seems to be displaying boost accurately, although i will have to wait for snow to clear before i can test it properly again! Is there an AFR sender unit we can buy to hook up to this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Just start your car and watch it idle and bleep the accelerator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Just start your car and watch it idle and bleep the accelerator That much i can do! i just want to double check that the boost when putting the pedal to the metal is more accurate than before when i head it wired up differently it was peaking at 25 psi sometimes and probably would have went higher if the gauge displayed over 25 psi. Seems to have the right power sequencing now. All my mistakes btw and not any issues with the gauge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Is there a way to run the LC-1 to the digital boost gauge to have a cheaper way to show AFR right there in the middle. I dont really need all that the vent gauge does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTATV Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 Pretty cool man. Subscribed... I might be interested in one of these if your giving out directions on how to make them or selling them for a reasonable price... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 Andy, a bit of feedback after using the VBG under direct sunlight - the matte finish of the device is very hard to see the LEDs in dull sun. Is it possible to have a gloss finish over the whole thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Direct sunlight is a difficult problem, I have noticed even when the stock displays such as the radio vacuum fluorescent displays are hit with direct sunlight even they are not easily readable, if at all. Since the VBG1 is designed to go in the drivers side vent, sunlight was definitely a factor in choosing design materials. I was concerned about going with a gloss finish because a glossy glare. The material used now is a lexan product from 3M with a velvet (matte like) finish. From the website: "10-mil Lexan - 10-mil Lexan® is a clear polycarbonate with a velvet finish on the top surface. It is dimensionally stable and resists tearing, abrasion, and heat. The velvet surface reduces glare and is scratch resistant. 10-mil Lexan® is recognized for it’s long life and durability." The overlay material is actually printed on the back side in a semi-transparent black. This allows the leds to shine through and then appear black when off. tangcla - your beta unit overlay for your gauge was printed on a different production run than the standard VBG1. It should be the same transparency black used in standard VBG1. I will double check that to make sure the overlay house didn't print yours darker, which would reduce readability. Also...did you make sure menu option 1 "max led brightness" is set to 10 (max)? I do plan on experimenting with new overlays. A few of you have mentioned you would love a completely flat finish to the gauge front, instead of the cutouts for the oled displays. I'm working to see if this is possible. My current thinking is that if the oleds are covered with the overlay, the overlaminate would have to be gloss finish. so what will be better? in the end...it may be a preference issue. http://www.squidoo.com/matte-vs-glossy-screens I have attached some pictures with sun-glare at it's worst, also a bright overcast day. I think the dominant factor of sunlight readability is the angle, but I would say the gauge is still 'sunlight readable'. There are quite a few VBG1 users out there now, comments? VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 i really havent got a chance to use this gauge properly, with the recent blizzard snow conditions, its very rare i actually get on boost! Since wiring it up though to the IG2 circuit it is no longer displaying crazy higher boost. It does seem lower than it should be on about 1.18 bar peak, i should be at about 1.5. I have a map check with my mapper on Wednesday so we can rule out any mapping issues then. On another note, i noticed something funky the gauge does when i am arming my remote start in the evenings on my Clifford alarm, i need to press one of the buttons on my alarm fob if i want to remote start the car in the mornings, Also what is the minimum temperature the gauge will work at? seems good down to -15F. It was -25f here during the week on night, but i want driving that night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Hmm 4.64 PSI would be way off. So what's the funky thing the gauge does when you alarm the key fob? Maybe something to do with power up? The min temp for the gauge is -40C and max is +85C VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 so with my alarm system, it has a turbo timer and remote start functions built into it, out of habit, most evenings when i get home from work and im parking the car up for the night i press 2 buttons on it, one for turbo timer(so it stays on for a minute after i get out of the car and arm the alarm) and one for enabling the remote start. when i press the one to arm remote start, its like the gauge just starts up again,electronic wise stays in the car everything else stays on. i remove my keys from the car, get out and arm the alarm, engine stays on for turbo timer duration then turns off. Im sure its just related to my alarm setup, but may be worth noting in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 Definitely have dull brightness the OLED is readable perfectly, just the red LEDs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 so finally got a chance to verify that the gauge is now wired up properly and operating normally. It turns out my car is only boosting at 1.2 bar peak instead of 1.5 for some reason and there is also a bit of detonation under full load. Time to get car re-tuned! about .03 difference from what mapper was seeing on his laptop to what the gauge was reading. sounds about normal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Found a bug... Whether you are using bar or psi, the vacuum still reads in InHg (ie not mmHg) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Found a bug... Whether you are using bar or psi, the vacuum still reads in InHg (ie not mmHg) Does that mean the vacuum readings are off? Wonder if that affrects boost measured? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Does that mean the vacuum readings are off? Wonder if that affrects boost measured? I don't think so. Just the wrong unit of measurement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Quick photo from my phone, to show how it matches with the dash http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6002/photo2fh.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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