technicalgarage Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I'll put an order in the minute the inHg in metric mode is fixed. Looks great! I was wondering if anyone has any ideas about how to run this with another boost gauge already running off of the bpv vac line. Would it be better to tee off of the currently running Tee'd line, or running another T, further downstream on the bpv vac line. Alternatively, is there another vac line I could tap if doing many taps off of one line can cause issues with gauge response and such? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 It shouldn't matter. Vacuum (and boost) should be in a 'sealed' loop so no matter where you take the reading it should give you the same result. There are exceptions to this rule, on older cars which have vacuum lines for all sorts of things... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewolf Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Hey Guys, Could not find an answer to this. Any recommendations on where to ground it given the length of the ground wire? Gonna do this tomorrow finally!! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Just somewhere wedged behind the vent, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewolf Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Ok.. What should be the easiest portion of the install is being a pain. I can't even get the unit to power up. I have an "add a fuse" connected to IG2, use one of the screws that seem to be used as a grounding point to the left of the fuse box. It will not power up. Is there an easy way to power up the unit? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 The ribbon cable is the most likely culprit. Check orientation (black side up), and insertion distance. There is a good pic of it in the manual (page 4) that should help you confirm proper installation. http://www.gtboostgauge.com/VBG1%20-%20Manual%20Rev%201.0.pdf VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewolf Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 So the cable seem fine. I was able to get the unit to power up with I connected the power to IG1 but nothing with IG2. Any thoughts on why and will this have any issues? Thanks again for the quick reply earlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 i think you will have issues if you dont connect it to the IG2 circuit, mine was reading boost really high because i used the same switched power as my dvd player, needs to have the correct power sequencing on start up to work properly. With my add a circuit fuse tap i need to put fuses in both blade slots(if yours has 2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewolf Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Interesting. I only used 1 fuse for IG1 but will need 2 fuses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Interesting. I only used 1 fuse for IG1 but will need 2 fuses? in your circuit tap, can it take 2 fuses or just one? if it has 2, then both need to be populated with fuses to get it working properly i think, that was the case with mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Does it power up I'd you connect it up to the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewolf Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Yeah.. the fuse tap has room for 2 fuses. I didn't think to add another fuse since it worked for IG1. I just added a secong fuse to the fuse tap, connected to IG2 and it worked great. Wonder why I didn't need 2 fuses for IG1. Thanks again for such an awesome product and great community support. I thought that having read the manuals countless times and reading the 44+pages of this thread a few times would have prepped me . Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted January 5, 2011 If there is ever a version 2.0 of this that has input for an oil pressure sender, I will buy it in about 2 minutes. As it is, I don't know whether I want to spend the money to have it in a separate location from an oil pressure gauge. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 A few of you have mentioned oil sensors. I was wondering what you guys prefer to use. A while ago dschultz suggested a great idea to have a programmable analog input. Here is what was suggested... Very nice product! I like that you used the analog output of the LC-1, that means you could use it with any AFR measuring system that provides a linear 0-5VDC signal. I happen to have a 14point7 NAW_7s. What would be nice is the ability to customize that analog input such that someone with an oil pressure sender could monitor the pressure rather than AFR. I think all that would be needed is three functions: Name, 0VDC=some_value, 5VDC=some_value and the user could customize the input to monitor anything that's linear 0-5VDC. Sorry for the really late suggestion, or if it has been mentioned already. Edit: Rather than 0VDC=some_value & 5VDC=some_value. A better approach would be a multiplier and offset. This is how the ECU scales some of the linear sensors already built into the car. MAP being one of them. The raw sensor value is read, that value is multiplied by a fixed value to scale it and then an offset is added (a negative offset would need to be accommodated) to put the final value in the range of real units. I am hoping to implement something like this on the next rev of the firmware. Also in the works for next version rev: -OLED Screen saver option - auto shuts down OLED when enabled and pulling vac for specified amount of time. -Fix metric display of Vac -Marker leds on Boost VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 6, 2011 I Donated Share Posted January 6, 2011 A quick Google turned up the Auto Meter 2242. Cheap (~$30), readily available, 100psi. No idea whether it would meet our needs otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Thanks thefultonhow but I cant find a datasheet on that one. Any of you guys using an oil sending unit now? What are you using? Hey metric guys. Do you want your Vac display to say "torr" or "mmHg"? VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 mmHg please So at the moment, is it actually measuring vacuum in inHg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 if it could monitor knock, that would be awwwwsome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Found a bug... Whether you are using bar or psi, the vacuum still reads in InHg (ie not mmHg) Yeah - you were spot on. Does that mean the vacuum readings are off? Wonder if that affrects boost measured? I don't think so. Just the wrong unit of measurement. correct again. This will be fixed in Version 1.4 of the software. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) How about something like this? http://prosportgauges.com/Premium-oil-pressure-sender-1.asp 0-5 VOLT 0-150 PSI You could always check the VDC output with compressed air. Make your own scaling by stepping the air pressure in 5PSI increments and measure the resulting voltage. With something like oil pressure I don't think you need to be exact. If you are +/-5PSI that should be fine. Because all you really want to know is what is normal for your car under different conditions. Edited January 6, 2011 by dschultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 Nice, I like that one, they sell the wiring harness too! Pretty cheap for what looks to be good quality. I purchased one to evaluate it with the VBG1. With something like oil pressure I don't think you need to be exact. If you are +/-5PSI that should be fine. Because all you really want to know is what is normal for your car under different conditions. Agreed, actual resolution will probably be something close to that. I plan to implement oil pressure plotting like afr plotting. That way when you review the peak boost plot you can also see dynamic change in oil pressure. VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lossol Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 New video of RHD showing some (simulated) functionality of the gauge. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylLrPdhrRok]YouTube - VBG1-RHD Vent boost gauge for Subaru Legacy[/ame] VBG1 gauges available at www.gtboostgauge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcla Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Do I get to test it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I might get the RHD version for the passengers to look at. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 i can get you another rhd tester if you need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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