Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

New quad tip muffler... stay tuned


lawl

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 519
  • Created
  • Last Reply
can you pick up some of those metal exhaust finishers to fix/cover your melted bumper? rather than replacing the whole thing?

I could, but they do not appeal to my taste, so I won't buy them. The only thing I would buy is the Gialla Carbon Fiber Garnish...but that is $450 + shipping. Buying a new bumper from Subaru and repainting it will be cheaper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, I just got off the phone with Invidia and I was told that they will try to come up with a version 2 sometime next month:rolleyes:. He said its possibly a flanged version. I also mentioned a clearance problem with swaybars and they will try to resolve that issue also.

 

I am hoping they will come through.

"Remember..."MODDING is a HOBBY:icon_bigg, not a BAAAD HABIT";) .
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, I just got off the phone with Invidia and I was told that they will try to come up with a version 2 sometime next month:rolleyes:. He said its possibly a flanged version. I also mentioned a clearance problem with swaybars and they will try to resolve that issue also.

 

I am hoping they will come through.

 

IF you spoke with Bernard, I spoke with him as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I looked at my crossover piping again...it looks like I may need to cut an extra inch off the pipe. I don't think FBP cut enough. If I cut the 1" off, I think the exhaust will sit much better in the cutouts. Its still sitting too far back, so the midpipe still needs to be chopped.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I looked at my crossover piping again...it looks like I may need to cut an extra inch off the pipe. I don't think FBP cut enough. If I cut the 1" off, I think the exhaust will sit much better in the cutouts. Its still sitting too far back, so the midpipe still needs to be chopped.

 

"too far back" means in which direction? I kept cutting till the passenger muffler was centered left to right. The driver side muffler is pretty spot on by itself when not connected to crossover.

Cutting the crossover did not seem to move the muffler front to back by much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ Agreed.

 

Those were my observations as well - that the inward (towards the centerline of the car) force exerted by the outside tip of the passenger side canister pushing against the outboard section of the inside of the muffler tip cut-out on the passenger side, when the cross-pipe was too long, displaced the driver side canister towards its outboard side, in-turn.

 

When the cross-pipe plus passenger side canister was removed, tension on the system was relieved, and the driver side canister was pretty much spot-on, if not a bit too inboard.

 

I thus kept chopping - all 5 inches worth or so :eek: , in my case - the cross-pipe until I got the passenger side canister to sit the way I liked it, within its cut-out. The driver side simply "followed."

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"too far back" means in which direction? I kept cutting till the passenger muffler was centered left to right. The driver side muffler is pretty spot on by itself when not connected to crossover.

Cutting the crossover did not seem to move the muffler front to back by much.

I failed on my grammer with that post :lol:

 

First, I need to chop about an inch off the crossover pipe so that the passenger side muffler will sit towards the left in the bumper cutout. Currently it sits too far to the right.

 

Second, I need to go to an exhaust shop and have about 1/2" chopped off the front of the midpipe right after the front flange to the downpipe to alleviate the issue with the sway bar being close to the crossover pipe, and the muffler butting into the rear bumper (and the body of the car itself)

 

Once those issues are fixed, the exhaust should be awesome...but I shouldn't have to do all this work :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...but I shouldn't have to do all this work :(

 

I think we'll all agree with that!

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RE: Gmachine's posts 182, 198, and 199

Problem: left (driver's) side inlet pipe hitting AVO reinforced rear anti-sway bar bracket

 

 

----

 

 

Just to show how much variability there is, guess what?

 

I got lucky.

 

My bracket cleared with no mods. :)

 

I want to repeat - I got lucky.

 

I truly think that there's some kind of not-worked-out/not-readily-apparent production variability issue going on with this set of cat-backs.

 

I'm clearing - not with much room, granted, but still clearing, and at least over today's test drive of some 20-odd potholed miles, there doesn't seem to have been any contact made.

 

I'm now just waiting for my Rallitek HD-endlinks to arrive, before putting on my Perrin bars. I can well see that I'll need to do some cutting of the lower mounting bolt, as-configured with the Perrin reforcement brackets (REF: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2498683&postcount=4 and http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2609033&postcount=4), and I don't know if the 25mm bar, in the rear, will clear the Invidia's pipework without rubbing/hitting.

 

Oh, and also, after my factory rear anti-sway bar was put back to proper position (thanks to the AVO bracket) - I'm also now no longer rubbing the bar, as I'd been before.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Think i am finally done with this. Possible long post to follow.

 

Replaced OEM downpipe with.....Invidia catted downpipe. Thought at the very least these two would work together,being that the same company produced them. FBP also gave me a really good deal on it as well.

 

The mid pipe barely squeezed into the space behind the downpipe. I was just able to get bolts into the flanges,but it was clear the pipes were not lined up. To make matters worse the flex section was pressed up into contact with the center support bearing bracket. The car just felt all Magic fingerish when accelerating. :spin: Enough already!

 

Today i took the car to a local performance exhaust shop. We decided to cut out the flex section and turn it 180 deg. This moved the flex foward and off of the bracket. They also flared out the section of pipe still attached to the cut out flex. This now allowed the rest of the midpipe to slip into the cut out section of flex.

"Voila" flex joint off bracket / mufflers not rubbing rear body work / sway bar clears cross pipe. All done with 2 cuts,a flare,and reweld.

 

I am much happier with the car now. Really the first time i got to enjoy the exhaust without all the extra resonances of stuff rubbing and clunking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today i took the car to a local performance exhaust shop. We decided to cut out the flex section and rotate it 180 deg. This moved the flex foward and off of the bracket. They also flared out the section of pipe still attached to the cut out flex. This now allowed the rest of the midpipe to slip into the cut out section of flex.

"Voila" flex joint off bracket / mufflers not rubbing rear body work / sway bar clears cross pipe. All done with 2 cuts,a flare,and reweld.

 

I am much happier with the car now. Really the first time i got to enjoy the exhaust without all the extra resonances of stuff rubbing and clunking.

D! What shop is this ? :lol: Can you tell them I'm coming...on one my trips back to NY. :p All I hear is rubbing, clunking, etc etc.

 

OR! Can you get pictures so I can have a shop do the same :D I'm so aggravated with this exhaust at this point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was the same shop that fixed my Perrin problem. Mufflex in Trenton NJ.

 

Any decent exhaust shop should be able to handle this. I'm thinking you don't have the flex problem if you are using that Perrin "modded" cat. I will try to get pics up asap. Basically they cut at about 3in behind the inlet of the midpipe, then at about .5in after the flex section. Flared out one side of this "cut out flex". Then flipped this 180deg. slid it over existing pipes,readjust for length and fit then weld. Pretty simple if you have the equipment.

 

Forgot to add. I had to do more clearancing on my driver side sway bar support. Moving the mufflers foward a bit also brings the 90deg. elbow of the muffler inlet closer to the bracket. Thank goodness the AVO reinforcement is beefy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, Gmachine, that's dedication! :)

 

I still haven't bolted-up my new sways/endlinks..... :redface:

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, Gmachine, that's dedication! :)

 

I still haven't bolted-up my new sways/endlinks..... :redface:

 

Get under her and get'er done!!!

 

Pics of offending Flex as promised.The flex used to sit right on that bearing support.The tips sit just a bit more flush now as well. Also took a few minutes once home from the shop,to remove a little unearned free advertising.:)

IMG_4941.jpg.fcd2143d04a2d894dadf787e075bf44e.jpg

IMG_4943.jpg.4ec7d107aeff4d1f6f6443bd4c2344c6.jpg

IMG_4945.jpg.85bf9b284e949b35794e40b6fbd55ff1.jpg

IMG_4946.jpg.7fd49ca8b1ea4b2b3e99a4e39d30bfec.jpg

IMG_4948.jpg.6ac52bffed1ab32eda36a4c7ea737dcd.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ Believe me, I'd love to get under her again - it's been too long. :( Unfortunately, I've got a bit of a scheduling problem, now, as I need to attend to an experiment on alternate weekends, and we also don't have our nanny for the month. Alas, Anna's still too little to be of any true help, despite her absolute best intentions. :wub:

 

I know that my driver side rear will require extra time/work, as that's the factory bracket that's bent - putting on the AVO reinforced bracket on the undamaged passenger side literally took me 5 minutes (15 if you count jack-up/jackstand time)...but that troublesome side took well over an hour. I'm hoping that the reinforced bracket has managed to straighten it out enough that when I next go under to further reinforce that section with the Perrin setup (as well as install the endlinks and bars), that it'll be sufficiently realigned that it won't be as problematic.

 

I love being under the car - it's my one time a week that I get to "get dirty." But recently, time seems to be the limiting factor. :redface:

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I have been trolling this thread for awhile now and a quick question would be if I wanted to run this exhaust when the V2 comes out, would it be a plug and play affair with an invidia catted DP? Or is that what you think invidia will be planning for when released?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

 

Up until recently I was just a guy content with his SPT V.2 exhaust. Now, as a LegacyGT.com rep for FredBeans, I am trying to come up to speed on the fitment issues with the Invidia V.1 CBE so I can make sure everything is properly addressed on V.2. I will read through this thread and the official thread and take note of the issues. Once I receive the new version I will install it on my Legacy and start a new thread with pictures, instructions, etc...

 

I am sorry for the problems thus far and I will do my best to fix it for you guys.

 

Best,

Rick/Underdog

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the worst offender in the above?

 

Clunking and rattling. I think when I put the new exhaust hangers on and the Group N trans mount the clunking will be less, but I still need to go to a muffler shop and have them address the length so that it stops butting into the body of the car.

 

Best,

Rick/Underdog

 

Ah ha! You are the FBP FNG :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I currently have:

Group N trans crossmember bushings

Group N pitch stop

STi trans mount

OEM exhaust hangers

OEM engine mounts

 

Nice upgrades,but the one thing that did the most was the visit to the exhaust shop. Being able to shorten the mid pipe was key.

 

Maddoc if your flex clears the bearing support,you could do this mod with one cut. Flare out the cutoff section,slip the mid in and adjust to length. Weld it up using stainless rods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update:

 

My rear components are now as-follows:

 

- Lowered on iON SportSpec - specific for the 5MT sedan.

- Rallitek HD endlinks

- Perrin 25mm RSB

- Perrin RSB bracket reinforcement

- AVO RSB bracket reinforcement

- Energy Suspension bushings and brackets

 

The RSB is literally *this* close to rubbing/hitting on the cross-pipe, but after this AM's commute, there's no issues, yet.

 

I also had no issues clearing the reinforcements, brackets, or their hardware. Again, a hair's width - I got lucky.

 

I'll report back when the car's settled back down some more. If something's going to do something or another, it should manifest by this afternoon.

 

 

----

 

Edit - 05/06/2010.

 

No rubbing issues (yet :lol:).

 

There's now somewhere between 25 to 35 miles on the car since completing the installation, traveled over rather rough roadways typical of late-spring/early-summer "pre-road-rehab-work" NE-Ohio. It's also accompanied by twice daily incursions of large speed-bumps in my work garage and some awkward driveway/entryway approach and departure angles.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would suggest to invidia to design it to fit a 100% stock vehicle. There are to many variables after that and tailoring it to invidia downpipes also limits options. Its easier to figure waht mods will need doing based on a stock fitted system than an unknown.

 

I mean I put on my ERZ downpipe and then the stock exhaust. That told me how the Bosal would fit as it is a stock replacementc cept its 3".

 

Just sayin'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would suggest to invidia to design it to fit a 100% stock vehicle.

 

^ I agree 100%.

 

They need to tailor it to a fully stock vehicle, and then leave some margin for production variances of not only the vehicle, but their own components, too.

 

I do, however, think that proper mating to the Invidia DP should be a concern, given that the products are of the same manufacturer - but I think that proper stock-vehicle fitment is a must for a component advertised as a true "bolt on."

 

Even at this price-point, that should not be an issue, given that Magnaflow and Borla - two other products using slip-joints, are capable of achieving the same, at the same approximate price-point.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use