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ACT HD clutch with tsk3 kit review


05lgt5spd

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OK rao, here's a serious question for you: If you were in my position (clutch replacement in progress, have OEM-style TOB and Tranquil TSK3 in hand), which would you install? Assume I can return the unused one.

 

I too thought to myself on seeing in person how the stock one works that the TSK3 wasn't actually going to do me much good. Then again, it's here already, and I'd feel like a pretty big idiot if I didn't install it and my quill got wrecked someday.

 

Random aside: I was planning to install a Bully stage 4 PP and stage 2 disc (segmented kevlar, as shown here:

http://www.bullyclutch.com/stage2.html ), but due to a miscommunication I have a stage 3 disc (6-puck ceramic, as shown here:

http://www.bullyclutch.com/stage3.html ). Am I going to regret installing the 6-puck? I do drive assertively most of the time, and I'm at stage 2.

 

Andy

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OK rao, here's a serious question for you: If you were in my position (clutch replacement in progress, have OEM-style TOB and Tranquil TSK3 in hand), which would you install? Assume I can return the unused one.

 

I too thought to myself on seeing in person how the stock one works that the TSK3 wasn't actually going to do me much good. Then again, it's here already, and I'd feel like a pretty big idiot if I didn't install it and my quill got wrecked someday.

 

Random aside: I was planning to install a Bully stage 4 PP and stage 2 disc (segmented kevlar, as shown here:

http://www.bullyclutch.com/stage2.html ), but due to a miscommunication I have a stage 3 disc (6-puck ceramic, as shown here:

http://www.bullyclutch.com/stage3.html ). Am I going to regret installing the 6-puck? I do drive assertively most of the time, and I'm at stage 2.

 

Andy

 

First off I am shocked at the stuff in bold :eek::lol:

 

It depends on the condition of the "quill" and if you are cheap :) I would leave it off if the quill is in excellent condition.

 

None of this will matter since you will have the transmission out very soon to replace the 6 puck clutch :lol:

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Well, I am cheap, and it is in excellent condition, but since I had it, I went ahead and installed it. Easier than sending it back, since I ordered from the US.

 

The 6-puck part is really irritating, it's not what I wanted, and I'm pretty sure I paid a bit extra for it. Thanks for your empathy. My knuckles are skinned and it's been a long day.

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Final result was that, as I said, I put it in. I did find a very slight groove on the quill, so it was probably a good idea anyway. I suppose the clips would serve to pull the TSK bearing back more than a stock bearing gets pulled back, but I can't figure out what ppl mean when they say the stock bearing doesn't get pulled back at all. Actually, if I think about it more, I don't think there's anything other than the PP pushing back on the TOB at all, so it doesn't matter how directly connected the bearing is to the shift fork, it'll still ride on the PP?

 

As for the clutch, well, it'll take some getting used to, and I hope it breaks in a bit. Moved the engagement point up (as it was pretty much right on the floor) which helped some. I do wish I had the kevlar disc, but such is life. In addition to being cheap, I'm also stubborn and lazy, so it'll probably be in there for quite some time.

 

Andy

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Greg,

 

Rao explained it to me in a PM when I asked him for some more detail about one of his statements. I have not done my own transmission work to date and am more familiar with these statements in terms of "book knowledge", so to speak.

 

Essentially, the Stock TOB has the fork attached to it via groove and, as Rao explained it at least, it cannot float away from the fork even without the clips. The clips are a good idea, but whether it's clipped or not if the TOB sticks to the pressure plate you'll get pedal sticking regardless.

 

As he highlighted in your post, Rao has said previously that he feels it's a great part for preventing quill damage or for modestly grooved quills to be able to continue to function.

 

I'm just trying to clarify the tao of Rao, since I had to ask him for some clarification privately. Hopefully, I got it right.

 

OK gotcha

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Soo! I'm at 2400kms now. I like the clutch its good. But I have the generic problem of (at least I hope its what I think it is) "heat sheild" rattle. Hopefully this won't be a problem for much longer because I'm planning on upgrading the exhaust mid summer when i come up with sum money.
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Also I used the tsk3 but I swear to god that I still hear the damn bearing when I put the clutch in on idle. (Not as loud as before I did the clutch setup but if I listen very carefully I can hear the whirriling noise) I hope im just paranoid and thats a normal sound manual transmission cars make... Anyone know if thats normal?
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So is pretty much everyone who is doing this set up going with the OEM WRX flywheel or has anybody done ACT lightweight WRX flywheel, ACT Clutch and TSK3? I just had the ACT lightweight/ Clutch and TSK3 installed yesterday after my TOB seized.

 

I have the same symptoms as everyone else at first, much stiffer pedal feel (which I like reminds me of my last car) a little grabby but nothing crazy (assuming this will go down some after reading others reviews). The TSK3 has completely eliminated all of the tranny noise, all I hear now is my engine and exhuast very pleasing. I haven't seemed to notice decelaration noise yet, but then again I've only driven 40 miles on it so far. The the RPMS shoot up really quick as expected, but nothing that seems wierd or unsafe to be driving around on the street. I guess I'm wondering if I went a little overboard with the lightweight fly.

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Quick update. I can chirp my winter tires on dry pavement going into 2nd gear. The 6-puck Bully clutch requires some paying attention, but overall I'm happy with it and won't be replacing it with kevlar. As an added bonus, now I get to say I have a stage 4 something.

 

The WRX flywheel means there's more transmission noise/feel on decel, but like 2% more, and it's a cool sound.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Wow this was a great thread and a lot of my questions were answered. I just want to double check before I go on and make sure I don't miss anything. I have a 2006 Legacy GT. I'm in the process of getting my clutch and flywheel replaced. I want to get rid of the dual mass flywheel. So with that said I would want to go with the 06 WRX flywheel, the TSK3 kit, and then would I go with a clutch for a WRX or a Legacy? Thanks in advance.
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Here are a couple of pictures of the stock TOB from my OBXT for review.

There are clips on the TOB listed for the non-turbo clutch, but for the turbo model none are noted. I suspect that's because the fork is captured by the TOB arms. The TSK3 (pictured below) has the same arms and no clip so it will follow the lever like the stock TOB. There is a spring behind the release lever to keep the lever against the pivot point. There is always a little force against the TOB even when the pedal is fully released. This is due to the spring in the slave cylinder which pushes the pin out to keep it seated in the tip/dimple of the release lever.

I'll be replacing my TOB as it is a bit rough/noisy when spun in my hand. But the TSK3, hmm...that depends on the snout condition.

(edit: no need for a TSK for me, the snout/quill is fine, just adding some grease)

ppSide.jpg.cc254ac6c50cc11d1b14b70b5f4ffa88.jpg

ForkSide.jpg.175d8cab87dae5788b0495f7d248c2c9.jpg

assy.png.d6fa7bf3711332a584f1122eae8f8e9c.png

tsk3.jpg.da53e899949157531da91011461ccb93.jpg

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I'm about to install my TSK3 kit now. I replaced my stock clutch setup after my TOB failed. I already installed a '06 WRX flywheel and clutchmasters FX300. But found my snout was damaged so I bought the kit. Just one question this is not a stock sized TOB so, where do we get a replacement for our next clutch job? Or do we have to buy the whole kit?
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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There should be a little label in the TSK3 package that you can put on your shock tower with the replacement P/N for the TOB only. :)

 

 

If I remember correctly, that little sticker I threw out said to replace TOB with tsk3 bearing. Don't think many dealers even would recognize that, let alone the kit!

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If I remember correctly, that little sticker I threw out said to replace TOB with tsk3 bearing. Don't think many dealers even would recognize that, let alone the kit!

That is all it says. No part number. I was just wondering. Since I'm a vendor now (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gb2-low-cost-racer-x-131572.html ) :) I think I can make the TOB for replacement. Because I don't see where to get a replacement TOB for the next clutch change if you have a TSK kit. Sorry for thread jacking. I was just wondering what I everyone was going to do? If I was going to make one for me I guess I can make more for others. Bryan

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Cross-posting from the other thread you started:

 

Jeremy just got back to me to let me know they will be offering the replacement bearing at a "list price" of $80. Sure beats buying a new complete kit for $190, unless the sleeve is torn up. http://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/smile.gif
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  • 3 months later...
You have to pull the engine or transmission to get to the snout or the clutch... that is 99% of the work. Once that is done it is easier than a clutch job since all you do is remove the old TOB, slide the new quill over the snout, tighten the set screw and install the new TOB.
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Can this TSK3 kit be installed as a DIY job? Or is it more along the level of difficulty as a clutch replacement?

It's not hard to do. You just have to pull the tranny.

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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