ACT HD clutch with tsk3 kit review

[bignickgt]

Sounds good, I'll just keep doing what I'm doing then. But I'll go a little softer on the take offs.

 

Also with this setup I noticed that when the car is turned OFF and I slowly push in and out the clutch pedal, it makes virtually NO noise at all(my stock pedal made a very loud squeaky noise whether the car was on or off).

 

But when the car is running, and I push in the clutch pedal it feels almost "springy/sorta choppy". Has anyone noticed this with this setup? It doesn't make a noise or anything when running, but I can feel its "kinda" choppy/springy... anyone know what i'm talking about? I'm probably paranoid and it might be normal... idunno

[TSiWRX]

^ I'm not sure - I'll give it another try...my left leg's been subject to quite a bit of abuse over the years (ACT2600 on my daily driver DSM, and yes, that's in-city), martial arts (typically my leading leg), and though strong, can't be called sensitive any more.

[Scooby2.5]

Littleblue,

Cheapest place to get it is at subaruwrxparts.com In this case fred beans paid too much for theirs and hence the higher price.

What the deal is, the subaru's have a TOB that floats on the quill or snout. The TOB is not attached to the fork and so when the grease on the quill drys out the TOB wants to stay in contact with the pressure plate. Eventually the bearing fails and the squeaking you hear is the failing bearing stuck up against the pressure plate. If this goes on long enough the bearing fails and can damage the quill/snout on the transmission and then you buy a new housing.

 

This device puts a chromoly sleeve over the quill that a larger bearing rides on. It keeps the bearing perfectly in alignment and gives it a smooth surface to ride on.

Also the TOB has clips on it to clip it to the fork. This way when you let off the clutch pedal the bearing returns with the fork.

 

Here is a link to the kit at subaruwrxparts.com

 

http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2255&idcategory=19

 

I wasnt about to put a $800 clutch and flywheel kit, and 500 labor only to shortly have my TOB stick and ride the pressure plate.

My car, although it took 116000, was screeching like a banshee as soon as cold weather hit this year in Missouri. Bearing was shot.

When doing research into the clutch I found this kit. Its a $140 insurance policy. My 15 year subaru mechanic, the only guy I let work on my car if it isnt me, knew exactly what it was when i brought it in to him and said this is a great idea. he had seen many many TOB failures on the 2005 up legacies. He knew of these kits but didnt know they made them as a preventative sleeve, especially for the 05. I guess most of the previous sleeves were usually done when damage had already occured and you had to do some filing to clean the quil up so the sleeve would fit. This sleeve fits right over the stock quill. Needless to say he was impressed with this kit.

[LittleBlueGT]

Littleblue,

Cheapest place to get it is at subaruwrxparts.com In this case fred beans paid too much for theirs and hence the higher price.

What the deal is, the subaru's have a TOB that floats on the quill or snout. The TOB is not attached to the fork and so when the grease on the quill drys out the TOB wants to stay in contact with the pressure plate. Eventually the bearing fails and the squeaking you hear is the failing bearing stuck up against the pressure plate. If this goes on long enough the bearing fails and can damage the quill/snout on the transmission and then you buy a new housing.

 

This device puts a chromoly sleeve over the quill that a larger bearing rides on. It keeps the bearing perfectly in alignment and gives it a smooth surface to ride on.

Also the TOB has clips on it to clip it to the fork. This way when you let off the clutch pedal the bearing returns with the fork.

 

Here is a link to the kit at subaruwrxparts.com

 

http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2255&idcategory=19

 

I wasnt about to put a $800 clutch and flywheel kit, and 500 labor only to shortly have my TOB stick and ride the pressure plate.

My car, although it took 116000, was screeching like a banshee as soon as cold weather hit this year in Missouri. Bearing was shot.

When doing research into the clutch I found this kit. Its a $140 insurance policy. My 15 year subaru mechanic, the only guy I let work on my car if it isnt me, knew exactly what it was when i brought it in to him and said this is a great idea. he had seen many many TOB failures on the 2005 up legacies. He knew of these kits but didnt know they made them as a preventative sleeve, especially for the 05. I guess most of the previous sleeves were usually done when damage had already occured and you had to do some filing to clean the quil up so the sleeve would fit. This sleeve fits right over the stock quill. Needless to say he was impressed with this kit.

 

My car was built 09/04 looks like this kit might not work.

[bignickgt]

Littleblue, It will probly work, im very sure my car was made in 09/04 as well and I think its just a typo on behalf of subaruparts. I phoned my subaru dealership to double check the replacment part number was the one my car comes with stock. Give them your vin number and they can tell you for sure.

 

This is the part it's supposed to replace: 30502AA120

 

 

Hope that helps.

[bignickgt]

oh btw I'm at 65 kilometers so far with my setup and the noise in second is thankfully gone... i hope.

[Scooby2.5]

My car was built 09/04 looks like this kit might not work.

 

Mine was 12/04, but they look up your stock throwout bearing number, and cross it to the kit.

One thing to note, and I think a mistake in the listing, is the fact they think anything prior to 1/05 is the older Subaru 5 speed like the wrx had.

I don't think they put that tranny in any turbo legacy that is 05 or up regardless of build date.

[LittleBlueGT]

Mine was 12/04, but they look up your stock throwout bearing number, and cross it to the kit.

One thing to note, and I think a mistake in the listing, is the fact they think anything prior to 1/05 is the older Subaru 5 speed like the wrx had.

I don't think they put that tranny in any turbo legacy that is 05 or up regardless of build date.

 

I understand now. I hope I don't have problems. Mine is just stock with my 06 WRX fly and bully clutch and PP. I haven't seen many with that problem, have you?

[05lgt5spd]

My car is a late 04 car too.^^^ I wouldn't pull the clutch and replace it if your clutch is good. I would just do it the next time you have access to it. Its preventative. THere was a guy on here not too long ago who had to completely replace his transmission because he was using a beefier clutch on the stock style TOB. I saw that thread, and bought the kit the next day.

[Scooby2.5]

Well here is my update/review of this kit.

 

When I first installed and drove away, I thought WOW this thing is stiff. My left leg will be bigger than my right and the thing was super grabby.

 

One week after install and 3-500 miles changed that completely.

 

It is now slightly more stiff than stock, perfect actually, and it now lets out and shifts like the day I bought my car brand new. Not grabby, not chattery, nothing. Just smoothe as silk.

 

THIS IS AN EXCELLANT UPGRADE.

 

As far as the noise everyone has been talking about....Mine is better after the few hundred miles I have driven.

 

It is NOT CHATTER. I think some people say chatter because that is what everyone else says but its not. Chatter comes from the letting the clutch out and the disc against the flywheel/pressure plate. I have NONE of this at all.

 

The noise everyone is talking about is the harmonics inccured from decelaration/acceleration.

 

Some have thought it is due to the ACT pressure plate or the disc, but from my reading I think it is gear lash in the transmission not being dampened by a HEAVY flywheel.

 

I believe from much reading on this subject, that it is in fact, due to the WRX or lighter flywheel, and also from reading, the WRX has had this very issue EVEN ON THE STOCK clutch from day one.

 

Someone else posted in ONE of the many ACT threads that it happens when you are in a slightly too high of gear in the 1800-2800 RPM range and this is exactly the case with me as well.

 

If you stay in the appropriate gear you dont hear anything much at all, and I have the group N mounts, but not the pitch stop. It would be worse with the pitch stop.

 

Its not bad noise, and can easily be lived with. I notice it most when I am in 2nd or 3rd gear and have to slow down quick because of someone in front of you, and you dont have time to downshift real quick. You press on the brake and as the car winds down it goes through a harmonic frequency I guess from the engine/transmission gear lash, where it starts out like a low vibration, gradually gets louder and then back to being low. It like a resonance frequency or something. If you shift it goes away immeadiately.

 

The heavy flywhell obviously absorbed this, as well as softer mounts etc.

 

It is really not bad at all, and sounds like a heat shield rattle or something like that.

 

Depending on the gear lash in your transmission, it may be worse or better.

 

My vote is to tighten up these tolerances if I ever have the tranny rebuilt so there is not so much play in the gear mating surfaces.

 

Anyway, if you plan on being stage 3, put this clutch flywheel stup in. If you plan to stay stage 2 or below, and you dont want any noise at all stay with the stock clutch/flywheel, or go with the SPEC stage 2 clutch with the stock flywheel.

 

I think qikslvr is going to possibly try this I am not sure. He currently has the spec with the very lightweight flywheel.

 

 

All in all I am VERY HAPPY with this setup. I, like others posted wish it would have stayed a bit more grabby. I do like the pedal feel though now that it is somewhat broken in. Just slightly more than stock. I would not want it as light as stock and I wouldn't want it heavy like it was when first installed.

 

IMHO it is pretty close to perfect. With that said..... would I like to have it less noisy, as in, no harmonics from the engine/transmission, YES. I personally think that this can be remedied with the gear lash set a bit tighter or the suggestions in the article from turbomagazine.com

What oil you use would help in this area I believe also and that is why the Extra S or that stuff that was in the article I posted, may be the ticket to help this.

At this point I dont know what gear lube is in my tranny. I had just changed mine to extra S but forgot to tell them to drain it and refill. So with that said it may have the cheap crap they may use at the dealer, which could be anyones guess. I plan to put extra S back in next week.

I have the 5 gal bucket in my garage and that would be a good flush.

 

I personally like the more performance FEEL of the car with the mounts and this clutch and would not go back to stock.

 

If you want these semi=luxury cars to be totally quiet, stay stock or go stage 2. Stage 3 and beyond your car becomes a different body style STI.

 

My 2 cents.

[Scooby2.5]

Here is the article I was referring to, I had posted it in another ACT thread:

 

Good read:

 

Subaru WRX Transmission - Gear Attack

 

Gear set solutions

By Scott Wills

 

 

The Subaru WRX has established its superiority with an affordable price tag and unforgettable all-around performance.

The WRX in stock trim can be a competitor almost anywhere it goes, whether it is rally or road racing; out of the box, this car disappoints many adversaries.

The five-speed transmission, however, is the topic of conversation for many enthusiasts on the street and many competitors at the track. The majority of the complaint list goes as follows:

Gear Set Symptoms

1) Hard launches break first gear

2) The car will not go back into first gear unless you come to a complete stop

3) Fifth gear is absolutely useless at the track

4) Constantly stuck between the top of first and the power in second

5) Transmission makes noise during decceleration

 

These aren't reflective of the opinions of the average WRX owner, but instead from those who push their WRXs to the very edge. Of course, as always, preventative maintenance is the name of the game for the WRX and its not-so-loved transmission.

Most of our testing was done with a few rally-prepped WRXs. Rallying is the ultimate test bed for any product because of its extreme conditions. A rule of thumb is, if it can stand up to rallying, it will stand up pretty much anywhere.

1) Hard launches break first gear

 

Most complaints come from those who have admitted to revving pretty high before dumping the clutch. The AWD cars are great for getting power to the ground, offering astounding amounts of traction.

When you modify the 2.0 turbo engine, it's easy to find a lot of torque and horsepower quickly, but remember the rest of the car needs to be addressed to handle the power gains.

The number one suggestion is to be aware of potential weaknesses and don't side step the clutch. It is very possible to launch hard with a little clutch finesse; however, be prepared to regularly maintain the clutch linings.

The other option is going with an after market gear set. Most of the aftermarket gear sets are way stronger than stock, but hard launches can destroy way more than just first gear...trust us.

2) The car will not go back into first gear unless you come to a complete stop

It always starts with a little synchro scratching going back to first gear. A new car is usually able to find first gear from 20 to 0 mph. Eventually, that speed lessens until all you get is an excruciating grinding noise unless you are at almost a complete stop.

This noise is very frustrating at the track, especially when the track has a lot of hairpins or very tight corners where first gear would be effective. First gear becomes useless as soon as you shift out of it until you come to a complete stop. The first thing to try is upgrading the transmission oil. The factory Subaru oil is not bad, but there are some very advanced lubricants on the market that can help with this problem.

We stumbled into the ultimate Subaru tranny oil info. We all know the basis for R&D on the WRX is rallying, so what does the World Rally Championship Subaru team run in their cars? Neo Synthetic lubricants, which are manufactured and distributed here in the United States.

We tried some Neo gear oil and eliminated a lot of the issues with the synchros going into first and fourth. The car was once again able to find first gear at around 20 mph. If you have been experiencing grinding issues, there's a chance that nothing short of replacing parts can remedy the problems.

3) Fifth gear is absolutely useless at the track

A WRX with stock tires will do a little more than 120 mph in fourth gear. As best as we can tell, fifth gear is just for highway cruising and fuel economy. There aren't many venues for club racing that warrant or have the track for speeds of more than 120 mph.

Best option here is an aftermarket gear set that has ratios more inclined to keep the WRX in its powerband throughout every gear. A close ratio system is ideal.

4) Constantly stuck between the top of first and the power in second

The thing on every WRX owner's mind is the six-speed STi transmission. Yes, this is definitely the best option for some in-between ratios; however, the expense of the transplant is not cost-effective for some of the grassroots racers, nor will it be legal under some series' rules, which require a standard transmission setup.

Changing the gear ratio in the factory box is a very effective way to go about it. There are gear sets available that help to make first gear usable by making it just a little taller, and second gear a little shorter.

5) Transmission makes noise during deceleration

This is a common problem, but technically not a problem at all. It's just a matter of inconsistent factory backlash in the ring-and-pinion gear. Some models do it more than others.

The Subaru dealership can fix the problem, but not with performance in mind. The dealership will replace the 27 -pound flywheel with a heavier model to keep the gearbox loaded, thus eliminating a decelerating noise.

Going the opposite direction with the flywheel weight will not get rid of the noise, nor will it increase it. The lighter flywheel will be noticeable in how quickly the car finds its powerband. Suggestion: Get over the noise. It's not a big deal, and certainly not worth compromising power.

In our research we have come up with a gear set that can take care of most of the rally and road racers complaints. Gimmie Gears & Accessories offers a "Sport" ratio that is most effective across the board.

The taller first gear of the sport ratio tends to fill the first to second void, and when you shift through the rest of the gears, you have a slightly shorter than stock rpm drop (approximately 750 rpm per gear), keeping the WRX in its desired powerband. The gear set has fewer, yet bigger and stronger teeth, offering the necessary strength for even heavily modified WRXs.

We contacted GT Motorsports, in Rancho Cucamonga, Calif., about handling the gear install for us. Follow along as we see exactly what it takes to do a performance upgrade inside the 2002 WRX five-speed gearbox.

[joeleodee]

Hey Greg. Thanks for the detailed write-up. I am now definitely going with this setup and was planning that no matter what, to add the TSK3 on. I considered the 6-puck, but the way I drive, I think it would be unnecessary, even with my aggressive build plans. If I happen upon you before my stock clutch finally gives up the ghost, I'd like to go for a spin, but I'm pretty tolerant of extra noise, as long as it's normal. Afterall, I used to drive a 4x4 with lockers. Those are noisy, but I didn't care since it was supposed to be that way. From the way you talk , this would be much more forgiving than that.

[1astrokeit]

Well here is my update/review of this kit.

 

When I first installed and drove away, I thought WOW this thing is stiff. My left leg will be bigger than my right and the thing was super grabby.

 

One week after install and 3-500 miles changed that completely.

 

It is now slightly more stiff than stock, perfect actually, and it now lets out and shifts like the day I bought my car brand new. Not grabby, not chattery, nothing. Just smoothe as silk.

 

THIS IS AN EXCELLANT UPGRADE.

 

As far as the noise everyone has been talking about....Mine is better after the few hundred miles I have driven.

 

It is NOT CHATTER. I think some people say chatter because that is what everyone else says but its not. Chatter comes from the letting the clutch out and the disc against the flywheel/pressure plate. I have NONE of this at all.

 

The noise everyone is talking about is the harmonics inccured from decelaration/acceleration.

 

Some have thought it is due to the ACT pressure plate or the disc, but from my reading I think it is gear lash in the transmission not being dampened by a HEAVY flywheel.

 

I believe from much reading on this subject, that it is in fact, due to the WRX or lighter flywheel, and also from reading, the WRX has had this very issue EVEN ON THE STOCK clutch from day one.

 

Someone else posted in ONE of the many ACT threads that it happens when you are in a slightly too high of gear in the 1800-2800 RPM range and this is exactly the case with me as well.

 

If you stay in the appropriate gear you dont hear anything much at all, and I have the group N mounts, but not the pitch stop. It would be worse with the pitch stop.

 

Its not bad noise, and can easily be lived with. I notice it most when I am in 2nd or 3rd gear and have to slow down quick because of someone in front of you, and you dont have time to downshift real quick. You press on the brake and as the car winds down it goes through a harmonic frequency I guess from the engine/transmission gear lash, where it starts out like a low vibration, gradually gets louder and then back to being low. It like a resonance frequency or something. If you shift it goes away immeadiately.

 

The heavy flywhell obviously absorbed this, as well as softer mounts etc.

 

It is really not bad at all, and sounds like a heat shield rattle or something like that.

 

Depending on the gear lash in your transmission, it may be worse or better.

 

My vote is to tighten up these tolerances if I ever have the tranny rebuilt so there is not so much play in the gear mating surfaces.

 

Anyway, if you plan on being stage 3, put this clutch flywheel stup in. If you plan to stay stage 2 or below, and you dont want any noise at all stay with the stock clutch/flywheel, or go with the SPEC stage 2 clutch with the stock flywheel.

 

I think qikslvr is going to possibly try this I am not sure. He currently has the spec with the very lightweight flywheel.

 

 

All in all I am VERY HAPPY with this setup. I, like others posted wish it would have stayed a bit more grabby. I do like the pedal feel though now that it is somewhat broken in. Just slightly more than stock. I would not want it as light as stock and I wouldn't want it heavy like it was when first installed.

 

IMHO it is pretty close to perfect. With that said..... would I like to have it less noisy, as in, no harmonics from the engine/transmission, YES. I personally think that this can be remedied with the gear lash set a bit tighter or the suggestions in the article from turbomagazine.com

What oil you use would help in this area I believe also and that is why the Extra S or that stuff that was in the article I posted, may be the ticket to help this.

At this point I dont know what gear lube is in my tranny. I had just changed mine to extra S but forgot to tell them to drain it and refill. So with that said it may have the cheap crap they may use at the dealer, which could be anyones guess. I plan to put extra S back in next week.

I have the 5 gal bucket in my garage and that would be a good flush.

 

I personally like the more performance FEEL of the car with the mounts and this clutch and would not go back to stock.

 

If you want these semi=luxury cars to be totally quiet, stay stock or go stage 2. Stage 3 and beyond your car becomes a different body style STI.

 

My 2 cents.

 

so your saying if you plan on stayind below stage 2 dont get this clutch with wrx flywheel? im not sure what stage im in. i have turboback exhaust, ebcs and infamous tune.

[05lgt5spd]

^^ I was at stage 2 for a while. Bottom line is the stock clutch sucks. You don't notice it till you drive with a new non oem one. Honestly, If I were running stage 2, Id do the upgrades. Even at stage 2, It will start slipping faster.

[1astrokeit]

^^ I was at stage 2 for a while. Bottom line is the stock clutch sucks. You don't notice it till you drive with a new non oem one. Honestly, If I were running stage 2, Id do the upgrades. Even at stage 2, It will start slipping faster.

 

ok i should be picking the clutch up in a week or so, i decided to go with act since there isnt much other options

[Scooby2.5]

I was only saying stay stock if you want a luxery car. If you want an "STI/WRX" do the new clutch. MOST people will get a bit more NVH on the 06 flywheel and ACT HD clutch with streetdisc.

[bignickgt]

I'm at roughly 466 miles now(750kms...im in Canada eh lol) and I like the clutch. It still makes a bit of that vibrating noise at lower rpms but its actually NOT that big of a deal... Good clutch so far. As for the tsk3 im glad i got it.

[Scooby2.5]

Im happy to report mine is doing wonderful as well. One thing I do notice is I NEVER have the trouble I sometimes did with the stock clutch/ drive by wire, where i would kill it.

 

with the new setup its great. No shudder/chatter, nothing. Just a bit of a more stiff pedal feel and the slight decelerations noise.

 

Love it!

 

Ive got one heck of a daily (30000 per year) driver now, with the clutch, avo380 turbo, coils, sways etc....its a fun car to drive

[05lgt5spd]

^^ good to hear, so far I love my setup. I dont know how long its going to last at 379 ft-lbs, but I really didn't want to go six puck Holy crap 30k a year! wow, I put on about 10k a year, and I'd like to put on only about 5k. But I understand, your in your car so much, its important you like it!

[schwinn]

Littleblue,

Cheapest place to get it is at subaruwrxparts.com In this case fred beans paid too much for theirs and hence the higher price.

What the deal is, the subaru's have a TOB that floats on the quill or snout. The TOB is not attached to the fork and so when the grease on the quill drys out the TOB wants to stay in contact with the pressure plate. Eventually the bearing fails and the squeaking you hear is the failing bearing stuck up against the pressure plate. If this goes on long enough the bearing fails and can damage the quill/snout on the transmission and then you buy a new housing.

 

This device puts a chromoly sleeve over the quill that a larger bearing rides on. It keeps the bearing perfectly in alignment and gives it a smooth surface to ride on.

Also the TOB has clips on it to clip it to the fork. This way when you let off the clutch pedal the bearing returns with the fork.

 

Here is a link to the kit at subaruwrxparts.com

 

http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2255&idcategory=19

 

I wasnt about to put a $800 clutch and flywheel kit, and 500 labor only to shortly have my TOB stick and ride the pressure plate.

My car, although it took 116000, was screeching like a banshee as soon as cold weather hit this year in Missouri. Bearing was shot.

When doing research into the clutch I found this kit. Its a $140 insurance policy. My 15 year subaru mechanic, the only guy I let work on my car if it isnt me, knew exactly what it was when i brought it in to him and said this is a great idea. he had seen many many TOB failures on the 2005 up legacies. He knew of these kits but didnt know they made them as a preventative sleeve, especially for the 05. I guess most of the previous sleeves were usually done when damage had already occured and you had to do some filing to clean the quil up so the sleeve would fit. This sleeve fits right over the stock quill. Needless to say he was impressed with this kit.

A little late to say this, but that is the best description of the problem I have ever seen... it convinced me to get a TSK when I replace the clutch... too bad I just replaced it with the ACT a few months before that post!

 

Kudos for an excellent explanation, gregnauman!

[JoeFromPA]

Preventing damage to the quill on the transmission seems like one of the best preventative measures (while you are in there) that one could do, when planning to keep the car for a long-time.

[psucaptainkickass]

Yeah...i got the squeal from this car in the cold. Although the clutch is still strong (80k on it, 68k of that at stage 2), I think I'm going to have to replace everything. The ACT setup definitely sounds interesting. Now to figure out which TSK I need, 2 or 3...I have a build date of 9/04, so I guess I'll call the dealership to see what the replacement release bearing part is.

[94sportsedan]

Be careful, My 2005 was produced 10/04 per subaruwrxparts.com after I provided them with my VIN. They told me I needed the TKS2 kit. I went against them knowing the transmission was the stronger one and not the weaker one available on the NA Legacy. I ordered the TSk3 and it was correct. Had I followed their recommendation I would have been sitting there with my thumb up my bum. I think they need to change the application guide to all 04 turbo LGT uses tsk3.

[psucaptainkickass]

So just go with the TSK3 regardless of Manufacturer date?

Saying it is all 2005 Turbo Legacies is correct then, despite the fact that my 05, was built in 04...

[mccorry]

I would say yes.... any '05 Legacy GT should use the TSK3 kit.