GEE-OTTO Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 whats the diamiter tubing threw out the whole thing? Ohk so the reducer is somewhat misleading it doest actually reduce the pipe it is more to accomodate the donut gasket setup. The pipe sizing is 2.5~ inches like the stock pipe. I thought about chopping the donut for a flat flange but the spring bolt/ donut setup handle the flexing/torque exerted on the system really well. The clamps are three inch clamps but the female end of each piece is about 2.75" so that explains the diagram. Another nice thing about the modular designe is that you have more adjustment capabilities which is key to final tip placement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Here is my MagnaFlow system as you can see it is a nice system. I plan to paint the mid pipe with clear coat after I buff it a bit the mufflers are sexy I love the tips and the look which is why this is my favorite CBE. These tips are huge! I want to say 4.5 inches. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/fb4e34be.jpg Interesting - those tips are similar to the 14827 mufflers, and they're not the same as the current Magnaflow LGT system, which uses double-wall tips... Did the original owner say when they bought that system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Those are double walled tips the dark shot doesn't show them well but this was bought in July 2009. The mufflers used in the system are slightly different from the rest of the line up I've noticed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 Otto: That looks like a ton of rust big guy. Damn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Otto: That looks like a ton of rust big guy. Damn! No actually very little rust more discoloration due to hi temps I buffed them with some Turtle Chrome polish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 No actually very little rust more discoloration due to hi temps I buffed them with some Turtle Chrome polish Oh, ok. Yeah, I am probably going to sand the entire exhaust except the tips and then paint with some Hi-Temp Black paint. What grit should I use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Oh, ok. Yeah, I am probably going to sand the entire exhaust except the tips and then paint with some Hi-Temp Black paint. What grit should I use? Hey I am actually going to paint my pipe black as well. I used 100 grit general purpose but you can use higher grit. MY thinking was after I buffed them was " it is only going to come in contact with the elements" I bought some Rust-o-leum black I am going to paint everything black but the mufflers and murder it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 You need to make sure you're using high temperature paint and not just the standard rustoleum... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 You need to make sure you're using high temperature paint and not just the standard rustoleum... Of course its Hi Temp wouldnt want to stop at a light smelling like burnt polymers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 just checking I want to keep the polished look for my setup... cleaner IMO. Particularly when the colored paint inevitably starts to chip off. That's not to say I won't get spots of corrosion either but I'm hoping a high temp clear coat will reduce the chance of it occurring... Does the Turtle Wax chrome polish have an acid component? That's for sure best way to clean off the surface corrosion. I use one of the steel wheel cleaners (eagle1 brand) recommended by Magnaflow to keep my current mufflers as shiny as possible. Definitely makes a difference. Once I coat the new exhaust though, I'm not sure what effect that will have on the clear coat - probably not good... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Yeah see at first i wanted to clear coat and I still may as of now I have sanded the piping and buffed the mufflers a clear coat would be nice but if I paint I will do two primer coats and 2-3 finish coats AND seal it with clear coat. I like you idea and if my CBE was shinny new I would clear coat it but it would still discolor slightly due to temps over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Besides this i cant wait till April when those headers go on sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 DO NOT PURCHASE THE V.3 headers!!! The pipes from the passenger side flange will not allow you to remove the oil filter with the headers on. On V.2 the pipes go straight from the flange towards the front of the car then bend 90 degrees and clear just fine. The V.3 angle is off and that is why the pipes appeared to be more drastic they still bend 90 degrees but they leave the flange angling toward the center of the engine. Will post pictures next week because I already left the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 DO NOT PURCHASE THE V.3 headers!!! The pipes from the passenger side flange will not allow you to remove the oil filter with the headers on. On V.2 the pipes go straight from the flange towards the front of the car then bend 90 degrees and clear just fine. The V.3 angle is off and that is why the pipes appeared to be more drastic they still bend 90 degrees but they leave the flange angling toward the center of the engine. Will post pictures next week because I already left the shop. What kind of oil filter are you using? The clearance is partially dependent on the brand/model of filter - some are considerably larger than others. It would be good to have a reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 What kind of oil filter are you using? The clearance is partially dependent on the brand/model of filter - some are considerably larger than others. It would be good to have a reference. True that!! Subaru brand filter ( I like them) dont have clearance issues but the other brands may. That and the fact they mock these up on GM and GC chasis:eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 I use the STOCKER. It is not about the headers hitting the filter. It is if you install the headers the pipes cover an inch or so of the filter. Basically if the engine is hot you will burn your hand when removing the filter, if the filter will even come off. I did not bolt up that side I just pushed the headers on to the engine bolts. The guy charges by the hour so I couldn't spend forever taking pictures and trying to get exact explanations for you guys. Sorry. Will take pictures next week. I had to hybrid my headers they are half V2 and half V3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 I use the STOCKER. It is not about the headers hitting the filter. It is if you install the headers the pipes cover an inch or so of the filter. Basically if the engine is hot you will burn your hand when removing the filter, if the filter will even come off. I did not bolt up that side I just pushed the headers on to the engine bolts. The guy charges by the hour so I couldn't spend forever taking pictures and trying to get exact explanations for you guys. Sorry. Will take pictures next week. I had to hybrid my headers they are half V2 and half V3. I understand the $$$ talks I get what you are saying now the primaries will interfere with the filter during oil changes. 50/50 ehh? What did you cut a set in two piece and use the best parts of each ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 I understand the $$$ talks I get what you are saying now the primaries will interfere with the filter during oil changes. 50/50 ehh? What did you cut a set in two piece and use the best parts of each ?? Yeah basically...if you can follow me here... Passenger flange is V2 down to the collector where those two passenger primaries meet (to properly allow oil filter removal). Driver flange is V3 all the way to the 2-bolt flange and collector. The guy used both header pieces to custom make a pipe to connect the Passenger collector to the 2-bolt flange and collector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I use the STOCKER. It is not about the headers hitting the filter. It is if you install the headers the pipes cover an inch or so of the filter. Basically if the engine is hot you will burn your hand when removing the filter, if the filter will even come off. I did not bolt up that side I just pushed the headers on to the engine bolts. The guy charges by the hour so I couldn't spend forever taking pictures and trying to get exact explanations for you guys. Sorry. Will take pictures next week. I had to hybrid my headers they are half V2 and half V3. There's a few 'subaru' filters floating around, so not sure which you're referring to when you say 'stocker'. I'm using the new blue Subaru honeywell 15208AA12A filters now that are smaller than the Tokyo Roki blacks 15208AA100 that I used to use. The canadian SCI530009 white filters (FRAM rebrand) are small too... Its really odd however that there is a clearance issue. I understand you had a time constraint but wonder whether if you had mounted the header flange against the motor on the pass side first, if it would have fit? I remember my v.2 headers needed to be spread apart to even fit on the studs the first time I installed them. At least a half inch. Could be the same thing. If I had mounted the driver side first, I might have arrived at a similar conclusion. If there really is a fitment issue, others would have raised it by now on the other platforms that have the same oil filter location etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 It's not the physical size of the filter that is the issue. The pipes are just plain bent incorrectly. My V2 headers had that same issue as you, I had to bend them three inches just to get the passenger side to go on. The V3 were wrong too and I had to bend the passenger side to get it on. Yes I checked while they were on there and I will take pictures Monday to show. Maybe I just got a bad set, maybe not. But the V3 pipes coming from the flange I guarantee you they angle towards the center of the motor, unlike the V2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Interesting... I checked for other posts on the subject and there were a few reports of the same. It also sounded like folks had more issues with the AMK vs Topspeed piece but I would have assumed they were exactly the same, from the same factory etc. I wonder if there are just some that come off a different jig, welded different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 You would assume that they were the same but you never know these days. Maybe the dumbass was drunk who started the run that day. To be honest I don't think it was the jig. There was approximately 2 inches of pipe inside that collector when my guy broke the weld to get that pipe off. My best guess is the jig was set up right, but the person putting the pieces on the jig pushed that passenger side inward, causing the necessary 90 degree (that goes around the oil filter) to shift and made it look like the pipe was coming inward, hence the more dramatic angles I noticed when i first got the V3's in. And then the pipes got welded to the flange and the pipe going to the 2-bolt flange incorrectly. There could be several reasons, not sure. Bummer though, and sux they are being sold that way. Mine are going to fit properly though so I don't have to worry about it anymore. Sux for those other people that buy them not knowing. I have to admit I like the look of the flanges on the V3 though. I am only guessing but I think those flanges will fit on the motor without grinding the flange or engine mount. I am unable to verify since I already modded my engine mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Wrapped my borla replica headers today. Pre-painted them yesterday with DEI 'aluminum' color silicone high temp coating. Just finished wrapping them and will wait overnight before coating them tomorrow http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2758.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2759.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2760.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2762.jpg While I have my 'paint booth' set up, I'll probably clear coat my cxlighting exhaust too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 Looks good CDN. I am using VHT Black paint. Using a scouring pad, I am painting the entire exhaust. When I get the cat-back I will have to decide whether to paint the cans or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Be sure to try and cure the paint as best you can if you're doing the entire exhaust. It'll bond better and harden the paint. I think its key to helping prevent it from chipping. You doing gloss or flat paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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