CDN 2.5i Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Here is the clearance and install of the skid plate with the headers. It is around 4 inches of clearance. But, the cool thing is it is right at the wheels. So as long as you don't straddle anything you should be fine, which I never do anyways. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/ackershaw/IMGP0374.jpg So, I test fitted my Primitive plate today and it will be very similar for ground clearance. Just over 4" of clearance at the lowest point. I posted some pics here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5i-guys-interested-skid-122737.html I'll update it with actual ground clearance pics once I figure out the rear mounting - needs an extra spacer to clear the header.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Any word on that guy who can adjust our ECU for the Air/Fuel Sensor delay and crap? Still waiting for the rest of my parts. Get my cans tomorrow. Get my sways friday. Still haven't wrapped the headers was waiting to paint all the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 CDN: Where did you get your Oil Drain Plug? That is slick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 It's an aeroquip quick coupler. The blue piece you see is the cap. It's a three piece system, the 'plug' which is the 'male' piece that replaces the OE plug, the cap, and the 'female' coupler that snaps on and drains the fluid... Before I wrapped my headers... http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2719.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Size? Part Number? Where did you get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Got it from aeroquip.cc: Part numbers: FBM3117 / FCM3117 $20.05 FBM3132 / FCM3132 $27.99 FBM3118 / FCM3118 $3.59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Did they change the drain plug sizes from your year to mine you think? Or do you think they would have kept it the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 They'll be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Awesome my Canadian brother from another mother. That thing looks pretty freaking cool. Works well, pros / cons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Awesome my Canadian brother from another mother. That thing looks pretty freaking cool. Works well, pros / cons? Yah, works well. The Fumoto is a cheaper alternative but I liked the idea of having a cap/cover for the drain. Just a bit of extra protection plus it's cleaner to boot. I expect with a Fumoto, you may have a bit of residual oil on the outside that could attract dirt etc. It drains suprisingly quick and no mess when you place the hose into a receptacle. The messiest part of the oil change is the oil filter now and I need to be more careful because of the wrapped headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Well my cans just arrived... They are OK. Not the greatest. Fittment issues to say the least. The cans don't sit in the exhaust opening in the bumper right. And no it isnt the rubber exhaust hangers. The welded exhaust hanger studs are off. The Y is actually welded off too, the mufflers are pinched inwards. The 3" 2-bolt flange does hit the heat shield. The mid-pipe fits really weird. I flipped it both ways and rotated it. I had the resonator towards the rear and no matter which rotation it just didn't fit right. One rotation caused it the dip too low below the car. The other rotation put the resonator .25 to .5 an inch below the drive shaft. Not gonna work. So I will be custom making a midpipe to mate up to my custom cat section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 The xo2/cxlighting/gms fitment issues are well documented... The heatshield and muffler alignment problems are not unexpected but the midpipe should fit... You can probably mix and match poly hangers with the rubber ones to get the cans to align somewhat better. I'll put mine on within a couple weeks to check for myself as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 I read those reviews on the fittment issues but most said it was the rubber hangers. In my case yes the rubber hangers are going to be replaced but it is a case of when bolted to the Y-pipe the tips pinch inward and leave large gaps on the outside of the tips in the exhaust cutouts. I will be bending the metal exhaust hanger studs too. Just ordered my replacement resonator and going to have my guy custom weld the Y-section. Any need for a flex hose you think? I was thinking not since the exhaust bolts to the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Well my cans just arrived... They are OK. Not the greatest. Fittment issues to say the least. The cans don't sit in the exhaust opening in the bumper right. And no it isnt the rubber exhaust hangers. The welded exhaust hanger studs are off. The Y is actually welded off too, the mufflers are pinched inwards. The 3" 2-bolt flange does hit the heat shield. The mid-pipe fits really weird. I flipped it both ways and rotated it. I had the resonator towards the rear and no matter which rotation it just didn't fit right. One rotation caused it the dip too low below the car. The other rotation put the resonator .25 to .5 an inch below the drive shaft. Not gonna work. So I will be custom making a midpipe to mate up to my custom cat section. Well, went to install my cxlighting exhaust tonight and nope, not going to fit as-is. The mid-pipe flange is rotated the wrong way for my cat pipe. My flange holes on the cat pipe are 'clocked' at 2 and 8 and we compared them with my buddy's GT and his cat pipe has them at 4 and 10 if that makes any sense? Bottom line, if I mate up the mid to the cat pipe, everything else will be off. So, one of the flanges on the mid-pipe is going to need to get ground off and re-welded. Bummer is the two shops I would normally go with are booked through next week... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 K, got it done this morning, more costly at a local hot rod shop but good quality work and they got me in first thing. Tips lined up suprisingly well, didn't need to tweak. Will post more pics and a vid when I get a chance. Details later, but should be pretty explanatory. Mid-pipe was short for my '05. YMMV. http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/033120100331.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/033120100361.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/033120100371.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 How is the sound?? good fabb solution if i were you i would paint that whole piece with rustoleum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 I would have just had them cut off the flange on the midpipe and go straight to the donut flange. More bolts the way you have it there. I am having my guy weld the mid to the Y to help simplify and reduce the bolts and gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I will paint the flanged pipe for sure to help protect it for the long term. It's louder than my magnaflows were. I'm happy with the sound. My soundproofing of the floor pan should address the increased volume in the cabin. I'll get some better pictures and a video over the weekend. I'm ok with leaving the GT exhaust intact and using bolts because it leaves me options going forward - can swap out any midpipe, Y or axleback as all the aftermarket ones seem to be interchangeable. That said, I'm hoping this will be it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I would have just had them cut off the flange on the midpipe and go straight to the donut flange. More bolts the way you have it there. I am having my guy weld the mid to the Y to help simplify and reduce the bolts and gaskets. Yeah and complicate the the process of addressing one part issues. If you weld up the whole mid and y you have to work with a large cumbersome piece and you lose the option to have loud or tame mid pipe setups. The good thing about CDN's setup is he still has an intact CBE whcih he could sell to a LGT guy and he can have different mid-pipes made if he wants a more quite restrictive or loud free flowing setup. I say keep them like they are b/c of you can always sell it and get another one but once welded together it may be more difficult Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Yeah and complicate the the process of addressing one part issues. If you weld up the whole mid and y you have to work with a large cumbersome piece and you lose the option to have loud or tame mid pipe setups. The good thing about CDN's setup is he still has an intact CBE whcih he could sell to a LGT guy and he can have different mid-pipes made if he wants a more quite restrictive or loud free flowing setup. I say keep them like they are b/c of you can always sell it and get another one but once welded together it may be more difficult I wasn't telling him to cut all the flanges like I did, just on the end of that mid pipe to the donut flange, that way there is only one flange there. Cleaner look and easier maintence. The mid pipe isn't what really changes the sound that much, because most aftermarket CBE have a small resonator there. He could keep everything and just swap the cans. Cheeper in the long run. That way you don't have to keep buying the mid and Y pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 No worries 08Leggy2.5i... I wanted option keep it modular because it leaves me options - I can mix match pieces in future if I need to. Hopefully should be no need. With it configured this way, I should be able to swap in any GT midpipe without having to do any further fabrication as I now have my custom "GT midpipe adaptor" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 Hey CDN, how many red rings do you have around your gauges? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Not sure, same as any other '05 2.5i? You want a pic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 Yeah if you don't mind. I started noticing some having 4 rings, and mine having 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Turns out I don't have any red rings around mine... might have been only the GT in '05? There's just a silver bezel around all 4 gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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