GEE-OTTO Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I'm going to run the exhaust with the included resonator as-is for now. I know how not having a resonator can really drone so will try the cxlighting with the built in resonator to see how it is first before making any changes. I won't mind if its a bit louder than what I have now and will look at soundproofing measures first before modding the exhaust. Note - I still have my factory catalytics. The magnaflows you guys are using might be larger ID, definitely shorter (and single vs dual), so perhaps flowing better allowing more sound through as a result? Yeah I may add another cat and resonator before its done completely and I am looking for some dyna-mat to line the trunk and floor for better sound proofing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 video:[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7n6go8uIx0]YouTube- CBE Pull.AVI[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Slightly modified skid plate. It still may not drop low enough to clear the pipe so I may get the outback spacers from Rallitek. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/ackershaw/IMGP0357.jpg Keep us informed as to how the skidplate works with the headers... It would appear that the passenger side header pipe in your new headers is lower even than the standard borla style header? Or does the skid plate not go back that far. Another question regarding the plate, do you lose or have to remove the two plastic pieces on either side? Don't know how to describe them better but in the absence of a full undertray like the GT, my car has two sections of plastic on either side of the motor from the factory. Are these retained or removed with the rallitek piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/mod7.jpg Did the header clear the power steering lines without modification? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Keep us informed as to how the skidplate works with the headers... It would appear that the passenger side header pipe in your new headers is lower even than the standard borla style header? Or does the skid plate not go back that far. Another question regarding the plate, do you lose or have to remove the two plastic pieces on either side? Don't know how to describe them better but in the absence of a full undertray like the GT, my car has two sections of plastic on either side of the motor from the factory. Are these retained or removed with the rallitek piece? CDN: - Well you are correct about that pipe dropping low. When I had the guy weld that pipe I didn't anticipate how low it was going to be. It is SUPER low. Lower than I would like, but there is no chance of those power steering lines getting hot. This is prime and a crucial reason to have a skid plate. - I tried to see if the plate would fit two nights ago and NO BUENO! The pipe I dropped hits the skid plate in the middle and completely hinders its installation. I tried to describe to Rallitek my issue and see if they had any thoughts, but they didn't help much. They sent me some new spacers, but basically I am in unknown territory so this will be another custom job. You know, you pay $200 for a piece you kind of want to use it. I am meeting with the jeep guy next week to find a solution. - Basically the rear spacers need to be about 1.25 inches to give the pipe room. Then I am going to have to custom bend the front to bolt correctly and be supported. - I am unsure what plastic pieces you are referring to. Take a picture and let me see. Basically all I did was drop the plastic crappy tray, remove the front bumper clip bracket. And install the new one. The install is a little tricky so you have to be patient. I posted some tips on the thread for the N/A Skid Plate GB. I would be glad to help anyway I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Did the header clear the power steering lines without modification? Yep they cleared. Now that ive got that exhaust off my car and the stocker back on ill wrap and spray it to ensure there is minimal heat transfer. I might just wrap the entire mid pipe now since it is one solid pipe from the header to the axle back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Also I am selling the Magnaflow straight thru mufflers and switching to these Magnaflows http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=8256 Reason being I think they will help with the overall sound I want being chambered versus straight through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Yep they cleared. Now that ive got that exhaust off my car and the stocker back on ill wrap and spray it to ensure there is minimal heat transfer. I might just wrap the entire mid pipe now since it is one solid pipe from the header to the axle back. I thought you said you bent the headers or banged the steering lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I thought you said you bent the headers or banged the steering lines. In the past yes but the steering lines have play in them and the headers are vastly different from set to set these went right on as you can see in the pictures. I will attribute that to 3/8" flanges over 5/16" ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 CDN: - Well you are correct about that pipe dropping low. When I had the guy weld that pipe I didn't anticipate how low it was going to be. It is SUPER low. Lower than I would like, but there is no chance of those power steering lines getting hot. This is prime and a crucial reason to have a skid plate. - I tried to see if the plate would fit two nights ago and NO BUENO! The pipe I dropped hits the skid plate in the middle and completely hinders its installation. I tried to describe to Rallitek my issue and see if they had any thoughts, but they didn't help much. They sent me some new spacers, but basically I am in unknown territory so this will be another custom job. You know, you pay $200 for a piece you kind of want to use it. I am meeting with the jeep guy next week to find a solution. - Basically the rear spacers need to be about 1.25 inches to give the pipe room. Then I am going to have to custom bend the front to bolt correctly and be supported. - I am unsure what plastic pieces you are referring to. Take a picture and let me see. Basically all I did was drop the plastic crappy tray, remove the front bumper clip bracket. And install the new one. The install is a little tricky so you have to be patient. I posted some tips on the thread for the N/A Skid Plate GB. I would be glad to help anyway I can. Here's the side pieces I'm referring to. The '05 2.5i didn't come with an undertray. So these side bits are all that I have currently. I'm assuming the aftermarket skidplates will retain these. I'm currently pricing out the Primitive piece and comparing over the OE plastic tray. Did your '08 come with a factory tray? http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/021920100241.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/021920100251.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 CDN:Yeah my 08' came with an ugly crappy engine tray. Those side pieces are going to have to go. The tray uses those front two bolt holes to attach. In the front is goes all the way to the tow hooks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Ok, the side pieces do provide some splash protection from the sides... I'm still evaluating. I may just go with another set of replica headers but ceramic coat them instead for better longevity (and not run a tray/skidplate at all). We have a local shop here that sounds like they may have good pricing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 The plate does cover pretty much the entire engine area. It does have pieces that bend up and protect from the wheel. If you want more pictures I will post them. I am still trying to figure out how to mount it. My concern is with having those headers down there, if I hit something there would be a tremendous amount of damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Yah, there's lots of pics of the rallitek piece so should be ok there... thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/ackershaw/IMGP0321.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 That skid looks clean I like the look it provides underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Yup, form and function. Now if I can only get it to fit again. Plus if I do the Spec B Suspension and the car drop .9" and I lowered that exhaust pipe, I am worried about ground clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Yup, form and function. Now if I can only get it to fit again. Plus if I do the Spec B Suspension and the car drop .9" and I lowered that exhaust pipe, I am worried about ground clearance. Yeah i made sure the shop didnt hang anything below the tunnel/car line for that reason. one thing I think is an issue and CDN can help is I ordered 25 mm from and rear sways from Perrin with perrin bushings, mounts and Kartboy links will that bar hit the header ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Was going to ask you about the bar - it's the GT bar right? You'll probably be ok with the replica header. I couldn't say for sure as I'm running the Tribeca 25mm bar that still has the humps, even though they're not needed in my setup... But, when I looked, it definitely looked like there would is space above the header for the straight GT swaybar. Let us know how that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Here is the clearance and install of the skid plate with the headers. It is around 4 inches of clearance. But, the cool thing is it is right at the wheels. So as long as you don't straddle anything you should be fine, which I never do anyways. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/ackershaw/IMGP0374.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 I got some extra spacers from Rallitek. Increased the drop of the front. Custom made some spacers for the rear. Increased the drop of the rear. Bent the plate where the pipe comes through and the rear mounting prongs and viola. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I got some extra spacers from Rallitek. Increased the drop of the front. Custom made some spacers for the rear. Increased the drop of the rear. Bent the plate where the pipe comes through and the rear mounting prongs and viola. Does it have a gap at the front now then? When you get a chance, can you take a shot from further back? I think I'm leaning towards the Primitive piece right now - was quoted $233 including spacers for the header. Shipping under $40 within the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 There is no gap at the front. The only thing is there are no access holes on the Primitive one, you have to pay extra I believe. You do have me looking at the rear skid plate though. Will take pics tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 No rush on the pics - just when you get a chance. I won't bother with any holes - I'll be removing it for oil changes etc. With the wrapped headers, I need to be pretty careful not to spill any oil on the wrap so will remove for easiest access etc. I will make a plastic or foil splash guard to hang on the header as well just for extra splash protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Then if that is the case, I would say go with the Primitive one. Because the Rallitek one is a pain to get the rear mounts on and off. The Primitive looks like it mounts to the center mount. The Rallitek one uses the sway bar support brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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