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6MT Master Swap Thread


HAMMER DOWN

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You do not do this on the DCCDpro and it looks like from looking at the instructions you dont on the mapDCCD either.

 

Am I missing something?

 

 

Here is the mapDCCD:

 

Auto

Required connections:

• Power (11~15V)

• Ground 1 (low current sensor ground)

• Ground 2 (high current power ground)

• Throttle position sensor

• Two DCCD control signal wires to gearbox

Maps 1 – 4

Required connections:

• Power (11~15V)

• Ground 1 (low current sensor ground)

• Ground 2 (high current power ground)

• Throttle position sensor

• RPM/tachometer signal

• Two DCCD control signal wires to gearbox

Optional map mode connections:

• Vehicle speed sensor

• Brake pedal

• 0-5V external input signal

• 0-5V OEM thumbwheel input

 

 

Here is the DCCDpro:

 

• Red = 12v positive (switched power) ***Note: Do not connect to “always on” power***

• Green = 0v negative (ground)

• Black = DCCD “B128 pin 1 (Black wire in tranny harness to dccd)”

• White = DCCD “B128 pin 4 (Green wire in tranny harness to dccd)”

• Brown = Ebrake cutout wire (ground this to stop DCCD activity)

• Blue = TPS: (Download appropriate Subaru ECM Schematic from website)

Cable throttle = “B135 pin B7”

Drive by wire <2006MY = “B136 pin B18” Drive by wire 2006MY+ = “B134 pin B18”

 

 

I dont see a G-Force sensor for the mapDCCD????? DCCDpro comes with a G-Force Sensor that you glue to the floor under the console in the center of the car.

 

 

 

I would suggest reading through the DCCDpro instructions found on their website, and also the mapDCCD instructions.

 

They hook up similar so you might gain some details from reading both

 

Hope that helps

Edited by Scooby2.5
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Looks like from reading the mapdccd instructions you can add the vehicle speed sensor signal in.

 

You are going to have to pick it up somewhere in the car but not sure where.

 

We dont use the transmission signal so what I would do is try to intercept it down by the ECU under the passenger side carpet.

 

That is where I picked up TPS signal so I would do it there.

 

DCCDpro included those red or blue knife splice connectors to just intercept the signal without a cut and splice so its in parallel.

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I heard picking up the vehicle speed wire from the cluster should work. The MapDCCD has an internal 3 axis g-force sensor.

I suppose I could use vampire connectors, if that is what you are referring to that the DCCDPro comes with. I'd prefer to solder it or add it to the ECU wiring harness pin.

Edited by Th3Franz
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That doesn't sound good...

There's a DCCDPro for sale near me as well...

Literally. That's what's making me nervous, is the sound of my 5MT. Performance is fine. I'm only brushing the surface so far in this thread & not entirely familiar with what the DCCDPro is for (that's not a question, I'll do my research)!

I owned an '04 STi & I'm familiar with the DCCD, just not what would be involved with the swap.

Tits mcgee
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  • Moderators
Literally. That's what's making me nervous, is the sound of my 5MT. Performance is fine. I'm only brushing the surface so far in this thread & not entirely familiar with what the DCCDPro is for (that's not a question, I'll do my research)!

I owned an '04 STi & I'm familiar with the DCCD, just not what would be involved with the swap.

 

What's wrong with the sound? You have some "upgraded" bushings, are you sure it's not just NVH?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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  • 4 weeks later...
OK, I'm joining the club. I ordered my parts from Frank at Millenium today. 2011 STi 6MT, clutch, WRX rear differential, and since he doesn't have a driveshaft he's sending the WRX driveshaft flange to plunk onto my driveshaft.
Tits mcgee
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It's can be the STi diff, but requires Spec.B rear axles.

 

 

Sent from a handheld device that can access the aggregate of human knowledge, but that I generally use to buy car parts and watch videos of people hurting themselves

Tits mcgee
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Just need to make sure whatever rear diff you line up, that the RD ratio is compatible with the trans' front diff ratio.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I'm doing an alternative to a 4EAT driveshaft... I'm using my LGT 5MT driveshaft & just putting a WRX flange onto the end of it to mate up with the R160. Any thoughts on this tactic? Frank @ Millenium tells me that's a go.

 

 

Sent from a handheld device that can access the aggregate of human knowledge, but that I generally use to buy car parts and watch videos of people hurting themselves

 

The 5mt driveshaft and 4eat driveshaft are different lengths - that is why you use the auto driveshaft. The flange does not need to be changed - they are the same.

 

p.s.- the 6 speed is longer than the five-speed, so you require a shorter driveshaft with a 6 speed. It so happens that the 4eat is the same length as the 6 speed, that is why they work.

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Josh, who the heck is frank and what the heck is millenium? Maybe i've missed references to this earlier in the thread?

 

Edit: yup, found the reference. Please disregard!

Edited by BarManBean

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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The 5mt driveshaft and 4eat driveshaft are different lengths - that is why you use the auto driveshaft. The flange does not need to be changed - they are the same.

p.s.- the 6 speed is longer than the five-speed, so you require a shorter driveshaft with a 6 speed. It so happens that the 4eat is the same length as the 6 speed, that is why they work.

Good info. Huge thanks!

 

 

 

Sent from a handheld device that can access the aggregate of human knowledge, but that I generally use to buy car parts and watch videos of people hurting themselves

Tits mcgee
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The 5mt driveshaft and 4eat driveshaft are different lengths - that is why you use the auto driveshaft. The flange does not need to be changed - they are the same.

p.s.- the 6 speed is longer than the five-speed, so you require a shorter driveshaft with a 6 speed. It so happens that the 4eat is the same length as the 6 speed, that is why they work.

I'M GOING BACK TO EDIT MY POST TO AVOID CONFUSION... I called Frank just now. Up until today, I understood he was sending me just the flange and that I was to use my driveshaft. He corrected me & said he's sending the STi driveshaft, plus a new flange. He scolded me for doubting him... and I'm humbled.

Tits mcgee
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I'M GOING BACK TO EDIT MY POST TO AVOID CONFUSION... I called Frank just now. Up until today, I understood he was sending me just the flange and that I was to use my driveshaft. He corrected me & said he's sending the STi driveshaft, plus a new flange. He scolded me for doubting him... and I'm humbled.

 

He understands that this is going in a Legacy doesn't he ? I maybe don't understand, but the STI driveshaft is a different length than the Legacy 4eat driveshaft, plus the carrier bearing and support are in a different spot on the Impreza models vs. the Legacy models.

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He understands that this is going in a Legacy doesn't he ? I maybe don't understand, but the STI driveshaft is a different length than the Legacy 4eat driveshaft, plus the carrier bearing and support are in a different spot on the Impreza models vs. the Legacy models.

Yes. He told me that the STi driveshaft is the same length as the 4EAT driveshaft. Is there photo or dimensional evidence to support one way or the other?

Good thing I have a few weeks to sort this out.

 

 

Sent from a handheld device that can access the aggregate of human knowledge, but that I generally use to buy car parts and watch videos of people hurting themselves

Tits mcgee
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