TravisS Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Seems like he's being pretty demanding of you and isn't really respecting that your just trying to go about this in the best possible manner to get it resolved ASAP. The funny thing about this is that My JazzyMT Aux in quit working on me after 6 months of useage. Well it didn't quit totally but the right side quit playing and all I got was a brush off saying how that tends to happen after time. LOL Its a $50 part so I didn't pursue it any further. Would have been nice to get a replacement rather than tips on how to fix it myself. Hey jazzy, how about Paul sends you a jar of grease and an adjusment knob and you fix it yourself? So I take it you've read the whole thread then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Yup. EDIT: I'm not defending Megans side of it, just that his attack on Paul seemed childish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MannyLegacy Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Well, FWIW I also have the MR Outback coiloves and they are holding up fine so far (crossing fingers). I have done auto-x, rally-x and track events with them and I have been very happy. I just hope Jazzy is the execption rather than the rule. I also have an MR Up pipe, downpipe, and catback....all have been good to me so far. I just hope that Paul chimes in here and tries to get things worked out for all parties involved. FWIW I've had MR on my Forester for about 1 year with absolutely no problems. (crossses fingers) And I too can vouch for Paul. He's always been there when I've had a problem, or not. :munch: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Checking back in after being out of town again (getting my ass whupped in a golf tournament) and then being buried under work at the shop because I was gone for a couple working days. Anyways, I stopped by MR yesterday and talked to the head of their warranty department and he is well aware of the situation and is taking care of it. Unfortunately they are out of stock on all OB replacement parts but have placed a special order with the factory. They will be air freighted, and they expect them within 7-10 days. They aren't bad guys and neither am I. We are all just doing our best to supply customers with a good product at a decent price and take care of problems with will inevitably arise with any product regardless of origin, price, or vendor. Thanks for the support and understanding guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 I can live with 7-10 days...even from now. I haven't heard anything from MR though and I had to read this thread to find any news from BJ. Regardless - I was waiting for replies until I could take more detailed pictures of the carnage since that seems critical to the process. The truth is that this didn't start on Tuesday when the coilover broke in half though - it started in March. If I finally get a resolution in August, believe it or not, I will be satisfied. I don't think I'm in the wrong for getting upset in the mean time, but I'm sorry for taking out on you Paul. I understand the position vendors and manufacturers can put you in and I understand sometimes stuff happens. That said - I'll probably never buy from MR or BJ again. Everyone else is free to do as they please of course. [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Actually - I went the whole week without a car - I just finally got the stock suspension put on the front of the car yesterday. Anyway - here's the pics - the stud busted off right at the top of the shock. Another interesting thing of note I figured out...the shock holds on to the bottom of the housing **using** the adjustment knob. So - as long as the adjustment knob has been off the passenger coilover - the shock hasn't been doing anything - it just floats inside the housing. It may or may not have something to do with the other damper's failure (it was the only remaining shock doing anything). http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c161/JazzyMT/IMG_7736_web.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c161/JazzyMT/IMG_7737_web.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c161/JazzyMT/IMG_7741_web.jpg [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiralsmurf Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 seems like you do a decent amount of off-road driving with those things... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight705 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 he lives off a dirt road, as pictured earlier in the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Is this how other coilovers are designed?? or only the MR's? Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochNY91TSI Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 ^^My Tein Flex aren't like that, they are held in by the tophat / pillowball. Maybe it's outback specific or maybe it's MR's but it's not all coilovers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chenc544 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Yikes, I know it has to be like that, but the whole front end is at the mercy of that little stick of metal Yes and no I suppose. The stock top hat goes over the bolt and is held in place by a nut. If the nut is torque down properly, ie no play, then all the load should be transfered to the top hat and on to the chassis. Torquing down that nut is a bit of PITA unless you have the proper tool. You need to use an Allen wrench to hold the shock body steady while you torque it down with a special socket. A lot of people didn't do that correctly and that's the main reason for all the "clunking" people are getting. Of course the nut could also work itself lose over time so it's probably one of those things that you should check regularly. Here is the pic. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/Pisadong/IMG_10.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chenc544 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Another interesting thing of note I figured out...the shock holds on to the bottom of the housing **using** the adjustment knob. Jazzy, could you tell how the adjustment nut is attached to the bottom of the housing? From the pic it looks like it's just threaded on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chenc544 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Is this how other coilovers are designed?? or only the MR's? ^^My Tein Flex aren't like that, they are held in by the tophat / pillowball. Maybe it's outback specific or maybe it's MR's but it's not all coilovers It reuses the stock top hat, this is the same way as Subaru intended it to work. http://www.trademotion.com/schematics/7/7523346.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 What are the torque specs for the tophat nut and what tool is everyone using to be able to get the allen wrench in there at the same time? I just started having the clunking issue, everything else seems tight, but I need to check these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 Jazzy, could you tell how the adjustment nut is attached to the bottom of the housing? From the pic it looks like it's just threaded on...There's nothing there but a threaded rod with an allen socket in the center, just like the top. It has to be just threaded on unless I'm missing something.. As far as the dirt - like Knight said, I live down a short dirt road. I bought the MR's to auto-X on asphalt, not off-road. I'm pretty sure the dirt didn't snap the stud. Also - the bolt at the top wasn't loose - not on either side. I used a rubber strap wrench on the shaft and an impact wrench to tighten the nut. That stupid little hex is useless. The spring keeps pressure on the nut & it's impossible to turn once the car is sitting on it - I don't think that's normally a problem. In retrospect, I think the beginning of the rattle might have been the adjustment knob coming loose at the bottom and after it came off - the shock hitting the bottom of the housing as it rattled around in there without something to hold it in place. I can't think of what else it could possibly be - everything always looked plenty tight at the top. [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 I know the next comment is going to be - "you borKeD it with tEh iMpekt wR3nches!!!!11111" It's just a battery powered impact wrench though - 850 in-lb max. I'm thinkin' 70 ft-lbs didn't snap an M10 bolt. Plus - the damn thing is bent, sideways...not twisted. [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirSix Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I know the next comment is going to be - "you borKeD it with tEh iMpekt wR3nches!!!!11111" Classic. You've been on this board way too long. I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Sounds like once the fluid departed the pattern, that the frictional forces caused a cease-up and once it ceased, the up/down pressures stress-borked it until it broke. Just guessing - but looking at the bend, something was stopped somewhere in the vertical stroke. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 I think you guys have the shocks reversed - the one that the adjustment knob fell off didn't break. It's the other one that broke. Also - the exterior look of the shock is a bit misleading - the shock is the polished part at the top & the piston travels inside that. The the grey part at the bottom is just a housing & the piston rod connects to the bottom of the housing at the adjustment knob. [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whobaru Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Hi, I'm here for the gangbang???? http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/rofl1.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whobaru Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Looking at that snapped bolt, I have to wonder if the car was used to entertain the visitor. No, this doesn't mean I'm defending MR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whobaru Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I would. Check for grease too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x312/kagenmateer/rofl1.gif So I take it you've seen the movie Old Skool! OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chenc544 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 What are the torque specs for the tophat nut and what tool is everyone using to be able to get the allen wrench in there at the same time? The service manual says 40 ft-lb so that's what I set my to. Sears sells a socket specifically for this. It's basically a socket with a slot on the side where you can stick the Allen wrench in. It's pretty expensive though, ~$50 IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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