boostsr20

Same here on Windows 8. Get the code 10 failure notice and can't get it to connect.

I'm lowered on H techs. It was definately worse on the stock struts but I can reproduce the noise at will when its 40 degrees out.

Thats what I was hoping for as a fix. I've got the window welded rear bushings and just put Bilstein HD's on. No dice, still does.

Tell me about it.... WGDC and Target boost were all zero'd out.

Yup, FWIW when I was running my vf40/18g with a deadbolt 15psi actuator I was peaking at 19 psi and holding 15psi at redline all with the WGDC tables zero'd out. When it goes back on the car I'll be using a stock actuator.

At this point I don't think its a power level thing other than the weakening of bushings over time. I can produce this noise at near no throttle taking a right hander sharply from a stop and I've already filled the rear mounts and done the rallitek race trans mount. I think its a combination of mounts but here is a wierd finding. We all know that it lightens up as the car warms and get more miles per drive cycle. Well, since the temps dropped I notice that the noise is Much worse when I don't use the blok heater overnight. When I use the block heater the noise isn't as bad in the AM. I've done this little experiment numerous times. I'm guessing some of the bushing in the front are also aiding in the noise. Filling the rears and doing the trans mount definately helped but I think the motor mounts would halp some too. How hard is it to do the lowers with the engine in the car?

If anyone is looking I know a guy thats selling a used STI setup. Sti 6spd trans with lsd rear end and dccd for $3000

Filled mounts and trans bushing and I'm getting it now in the 20's. They helped alot until it got under 40, now its back.

Ahhh. I've got the Superpros, just haven't had time to remove the LCA's.

I filled my rear mounts when it was about 65 degrees out. It took a good month for the window weld to stiffen up and make a nice difference. Reason being, I didn't use an insert of PVC like others did to my window weld was in there pretty thick. If I did it again, I'd probably use the inserts or do it when its nice and warm out.

Front or rear? Are rears even available?

Great Idea. I had to helicoil one on already. This is a better alternative.

Lowering the car definately weakens the bushings faster but I'd still do the 2 easy fixes to help alleviate the inevitable.

I did until I filled the rear mounts with window weld and put in the rallitek Race trans bushing. I still get it ever so slightly on really cold mornings but only when 1/2 throttle turning right from a stop.

Waht section at HD? I was looking the other day and couldn't find them.

I got the Race trans mount in and the diff bushings fix. So far it has cured the straight line aspect of the noise (for now, maybe not when really cold). I do still get it on right handers from teh stop sign if I go half throttle. That fades as the diff fluid warms up though.

If you didn't feel like reading this thread then its probably not for you. Tuning involvees a lot of reading and thought process and there aren't too many people willing to actively GIVE you map setups.

How hard was the Rallitek insert to install?

Are any of you guys getting NVH from doing this? I seem to be getting a little more Vibration through the gas pedal with my temporary solution (old sway bar buchings like posted above).

Gotcha. Thanks! So the window weld is fairly thick and will stay in without too much leakage? I'm going to try and get it done this week.

So where does the PVC insert go? Is it filled while its off the car then inserted similarly to TRS's swaybar bushing fix?

So did I miss the How-to on this I am starting to get the noise now and want to try the window weld mod. Can someone postpics and a quick how to?

Just to clarify, thats what TDC had the map set for. I didn't datalog it that high. I have it dropped back significanly now.