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Info on Outback MR Coilovers


jazzymt

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I'm in agreement, none of my postings were to add validity to the thread title, Megen and Boostie have been more then willing to talk and work with me... They want a good product out there. I can either copy and paste my postings in a new thread or moderator is welcome to do it.

 

jdkobe

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Maybe a moderator could just change the title of the thread. I think this thread has a lot of useful info. I'd hate to see that info get broken into other threads.

 

The length of my rear spring compressed is 160mm, so it sags 60mm.

There is one thing for sure, no matter how much preload you put on the spring, it will always compress to the same total length when the car is on the ground. If you put 20mm of preload on the spring, it will sag another 40mm when the car is on the ground. It won't end up with 80mm of sag.

 

If you want the car sitting at the top of the shock travel, you would need 60mm of preload. If that were the case, you would end up with the coil binding before you ever got to the bottom of the travel.

 

Personally, I think these need longer springs with a good amount of preload. Maybe a 250mm coil length, with 20-30mm of preload. The longer spring will have more sag with the car weight on it, but the addition of more preload should offset that. The factory springs have a ton of preload on the fronts.

 

The shock travel length is about 95mm, if you are sagging 60mm, that leaves 35mm of travel for hitting bumps. Any preload added will change that. Add 10mm of preload, and you will have 45mm of travel.

 

At least that's what I think. I could be right, partially right, or totally wrong. Hopefully someone in the know will clarify.

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My MR Coilover have about 35k miles on it, i'm now purchasing replacement shocks from Boostjunkie, technically the i do not need to change the springs right? Just swap the new coil shock with the old springs i should be fine?

 

can someone verify this^?

 

Thanks!

○ ○ ○

Instagram: itshangertime :spin::spin::spin: ○ ○ ○

 

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Well put the new cartridges on my car on november 10th, it is riding great.

Went under to pull control arms off for new bushings and this is what I see.

 

http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/42278/2593996780074087040S600x600Q85.jpg

 

 

I called megan about it talked to cyrus and he said it was normal. Sometimes they put too much assembly grease in the cartridge and it seeps out.

 

I do not personally see how this is possible as the threaded body of the cartridge doesnt seem to have a way for the grease to escape.

 

He told me to keep an eye on it and if I have any more problems they will send me new ones again.

 

He also stated that they are redesigning these to make them non inverted because they are having so many issues.

 

He said that the inverted design was never meant to be daily driven.

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I do not personally see how this is possible as the threaded body of the cartridge doesnt seem to have a way for the grease to escape.

 

The end of the threaded piece is a thin plastic cover. The grease is coming out between the area where the threaded piece ends, and the plastic cover is. I unscrewed mine all the way a few weeks ago due to my own curiosity about where the grease was coming from.

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Without being a suspension expert I can't say.

In my mind, anything leaking a bunch of grease is a problem. Unless I knew for sure that it had too much put in it. My understanding is the grease is there for noise/vibration dampening, and to aid in cooling. So functionally it should be fine.

 

BTW, yours haven't started "leaking" grease yet. Give them a few weeks and you'll be amazed at how much actually comes out of them, assuming you have the same experience I did. Maybe they are leaking grease mainly due to the inverted design, and they have poorly designed sealing system trying to hold it in.

 

Here's my thread with the leaking grease pic.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95366

 

So when you swapped the cartriges, what parts did yo uactually replace? The entire black threaded piece, or just the top part of it?

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Ok Campers, tell me this;

Regarding the rears;

 

With balanced preload (between Driver & Passenger) and balanced ride height, the Driver rear sits 9mm lower then Passenger. To rule out things, I have chacked with full and empty gas tank and then swapped springs from driver to passenger side. Still, Driver is 9mm lower.

 

So, what's the deal? maybe a bent arm on the driver rear?

 

Oh, one last thing, the fronts are equally matched, so I don't think it is directional force coming from one front being higher or lower.

 

Thanks

Jonathan

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Without being a suspension expert I can't say.

In my mind, anything leaking a bunch of grease is a problem. Unless I knew for sure that it had too much put in it. My understanding is the grease is there for noise/vibration dampening, and to aid in cooling. So functionally it should be fine.

 

BTW, yours haven't started "leaking" grease yet. Give them a few weeks and you'll be amazed at how much actually comes out of them, assuming you have the same experience I did. Maybe they are leaking grease mainly due to the inverted design, and they have poorly designed sealing system trying to hold it in.

 

Here's my thread with the leaking grease pic.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95366

 

So when you swapped the cartriges, what parts did yo uactually replace? The entire black threaded piece, or just the top part of it?

 

Entire black threaded piece.

 

Cyrus at megan told me that some of them have been over filled with grease and it should be fine.

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Mine sits lower on the passenger side too, I think it's something to do with the different corner weights? Or voodoo. Apart from possible alignment ramifications I can't see that's it's important tho. I weigh more than my girlfriend so it all balances out :).

 

I'm no suspension expert but I have spent a lot of time tweaking mtn bike suspensions and can say that a bit of seeping from seals is no cause for alarm. If it appears to continue or becomes excessive that's different. Also if it's grease & not oil it's a good sign. Leaking oil is bad. Seeping grease is fine.

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DK - on the spring length, I have already had that discussion with them, the Outback setup already comes with the longest available spring, both front and rear. they do make stiffer (more kg) springs in this lenght, but longer is not an option
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And boulder guy... I'm running a santa cruz nomad MTB with a Cane Creek Double Barrel - my knowledge comes from tweeking this too! Hence the preload vs sag areas of discussion - this comes from working with Melcome at CC - so our expertise is likely, well... very faulty :)
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And boulder guy... I'm running a santa cruz nomad MTB with a Cane Creek Double Barrel - my knowledge comes from tweeking this too! Hence the preload vs sag areas of discussion - this comes from working with Melcome at CC - so our expertise is likely, well... very faulty :)

 

Come hit the Kokopelli Trail in spring, test out that Nomad on some real bumps.

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DK - on the spring length, I have already had that discussion with them, the Outback setup already comes with the longest available spring, both front and rear. they do make stiffer (more kg) springs in this lenght, but longer is not an option

Did you ask them about 3rd party springs that are longer? They would probably say no, and say it will void the warranty, but longer springs are out there.

I was thinking about some Eibachs.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/category.php/CA=31

The MR spring is about 8.6", I was thinking about getting a 10" slightly firmer spring. It's just such a huge pain in the a$$ to make the changes. Not like on the MTB when I can swap out a coil on my Lyrik on about 5 minutes, with no need for alignment when done ;).

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