Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Info on Outback MR Coilovers


jazzymt

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 272
  • Created
  • Last Reply

When mine were on the car, I could not get the rubber top caps on. I had 7-8 threads showing, and I still did when I removed them. So I know the top never loosesned up. I didn't pay too much attention to them when I removed them because I was so frustrated with them. I just wanted a smooth riding car with no clunk.

 

When I was looking at mine this weekend, I was able to get 95mm of travel out of both of them. I have pics of them on the car under weight, and off the car unweighed. When on the car they are compressed about way through the travel. That seems to be too much compresion for a resting suspension. I would guess it shold be 20-30%.

 

Greg, can you take a pic of the front ones with the car weight on them and post it up? I'd lke to see if yours is as compressed as mine. I have a feeling mine may be more compressed due to having the H6. I'll see if I can find my pic and get it posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using the JDM tophats on mine, had a spare seat. The bearing surface is thinner so my exposed thread count would be different from yours.

 

I could have sworn I posted something last nite about reference spring measurements, but it ain't here.

 

So with all this talk of swapping springs, could someone with their shocks currently uninstalled measure their springs & post results here for a reference? Length, width (ID, OD), front rear, etc. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Length = 220mm

ID = 2.5"

OD = not sure. I'll have to measure that one.

 

Measurements are for the front, but I believe rear is the same. Only difference is in strength.

 

Swift, Eibach, and Hyperco make springs in that ID and in much longer lengths. Bunch of different rates too.

 

OD doesn't matter too much.

 

- andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spoke to Boostjunkie today and he stated that the design of the fronts have not changes except for one person who ordered a custom set? not sure who that is but I'm basically getting the old style design back...kinda sucks but at least I'll have my coilovers back.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

RaceComp, would it be wildly crazy to install airbags in place of the coils? I know what your thinking but what I'm thinking is that I'd love a setup like what's available for and A6 Allroad...These guys make a product that looks like it could be fabricated to work with the existing Megan Coilovers...Looks like it would cost some serious cash though.

 

https://www.universalairsuspension.com/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=29

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need more preload if it is sagging that much. My first set of front damper had 65mm, my new ones have 87 and another guy i know has 95. I wonder what is up with that. Different strokes for different folks :)

 

I dont know what you want a picture of. You would almost have to take weight off the car and take a picture of the strut piston, and then take another with it on the ground. My car is too low to do this almost need a flat lift. you would also need the boots off.

 

Anyway mine is driving smooth as can be not noises at all. We shall see how long it lasts.

 

Ill do what I can just let me know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spoke to Boostjunkie today and he stated that the design of the fronts have not changes except for one person who ordered a custom set? not sure who that is but I'm basically getting the old style design back...kinda sucks but at least I'll have my coilovers back.

 

Custom set :lol: was I want mine to be able to go to stock outback height and they will not ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ideally what I will do if these fail in the future is find some damper cartridges that will fit in the coilovers we have made by a different company.

Remember they are adjustable and I would bet the diameter and the thread courseness would be basically they same since many of these companies coilovers are actually made by the same people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right now as we speak I am happy with mine again. I hope it stays that way. If not Ill be getting new dampers again. ANYTHING is better than stock. I cannot believe how soft the stock struts were. I took one apart this weekend to see the stroke of them and my 7 year old could push them down to the ground.

 

One thing that is interesting is the Megans (at least mine) do not have a bump stop of anykind limiting the cartridge from bottoming out like the factory ones do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need more preload if it is sagging that much. My first set of front damper had 65mm, my new ones have 87 and another guy i know has 95. I wonder what is up with that. Different strokes for different folks :)

 

I dont know what you want a picture of. You would almost have to take weight off the car and take a picture of the strut piston, and then take another with it on the ground. My car is too low to do this almost need a flat lift. you would also need the boots off.

 

Anyway mine is driving smooth as can be not noises at all. We shall see how long it lasts.

 

Ill do what I can just let me know

I don't need a picture, but would like to know the length your spring is with the car weight on them. I'd like to compare the sag of the front and back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well AWDxBOOST, we don't have many choices now do we? Its megans or Bilsteins....If you have the Bilsteins you cannot change the ride height. Which for me was a deciding factor on purchasing these. I'm sure the bilsteins are much nicer but the are twice as much money as well. So yes, I think we all understand what we are getting ourselves into but until a high end or even middle end manufacture comes along then we have to live with it....
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes crappy knockoff parts

 

why do you think they are so cheap? cause they are designed to lower standards. have you ridden on quality performance suspension before?

 

Oh just knock-it-off :rolleyes:

To answer your question quality is relative, do you have any specifics such as what manufacturer in your opinion makes a quality product?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That wagon is sick...too bad the manufacturer of the lift kit doesn't even have a picture of the product he sells. I requested info on this awhile back when I was considering lifting mine...still would but it sounds like it takes months to get the product as well.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh just knock-it-off :rolleyes:

To answer your question quality is relative, do you have any specifics such as what manufacturer in your opinion makes a quality product?

 

bilstein is one that comes to mind. apexi is another.

 

the cheaper coilover systems are not built to uniform dampening and spring rates. testing and analysis to make this happen add cost. Also, tolerances are generally tighter, reducing the chance for leaking/failure. Another thing is the materials used, in terms of metallurgy and mechanical properties.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bilstein is one that comes to mind. apexi is another.

 

the cheaper coilover systems are not built to uniform dampening and spring rates. testing and analysis to make this happen add cost. Also, tolerances are generally tighter, reducing the chance for leaking/failure. Another thing is the materials used, in terms of metallurgy and mechanical properties.

 

Can you provide me the "metallurgy and mechanical properties" of the various coilovers on the market so I can verify the reason for the extensive cost difference and justify it to my budget. :rolleyes:

 

Also thank you for editing your post I, am sure your engineering firm would feel better about you taking the quote below down:

 

"what are you qualifications to argue with me? probably not much unless you are also a mechanical engineer."

 

I didnt know we had to submit our qualifications for approval in order to take part in this forum. Much less disagree with an engineer. :redface:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Natoli follow what I wrote above about bolting the tophat on before you set the preload.

I then set my preload to 1/4 inch which is the width of the lock ring nut.

So after you have the tophat bolted on and tight move the bottom spring perch up snug on the sprint and then go 1/4 inch more and then lock it down with the lock ring.

 

Make sure you take measurements of everything before you take your old ones apart if you are just replacing dampers. That way you will have them at the same height you had before

 

hope this helps

 

I looked everywhere on what to put preload at and most said 1/4 inch so that is what I did.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use