LittleBlueGT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Can you put as much stuff in a base map as you can in a base+RT map? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 No LBGT plus there is stuff you want in the BM and stuff you want in the RT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005garnetGT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 No LBGT plus there is stuff you want in the BM and stuff you want in the RT. ahh yes, my method won't work for tuners who hide their tunes in real time maps. they would take a little more effort to get.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 But the point of ST is you do it yourself and dont need them Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005garnetGT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Bump its easier to get to an optimal tune by starting close to one you know is pretty close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I like to avoid the tuner in the first place Second if his tune was good you wouldn't need ST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 No LBGT plus there is stuff you want in the BM and stuff you want in the RT. I understand that you want stuff in base and RT. I have heard more then one tuner say (TDC's old Jon and PDX) that they have too many changes to fit into a base map and need a RT map to get them all in............. Second if his tune was good you wouldn't need ST I am fairly happy with my tune (very safe, good driveablility, not excellent but good), but I suppose it depends on how picky you are. I will still go back to the dyno to get tuned for best power later, but other issues like the best low speed driveability, WGDC temp compensation tables, tuning specifically for your own gas (and possibly toluene mix, etc) are things I wish to get nailed. I also want to install my own injectors and save install costs, so this way I can calibrate appropriately. (I know my tuner can send me a map to use with different injectors, but even from DW I have heard of some having troubles with just adjusting the fuel injector scale, again it seems for most it works, but nothing seems 100%) Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignignokt Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I understand that you want stuff in base and RT. Not sure about that, but you can run out of space on the base map and have to use the realtime map to fit in additional changes. As for driveability, ST is definitely the way to go if you have patience. A pro tuner in 45 minutes just can't do as much as tuning yourself over a period of weeks/months in a bunch of different conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Not sure about that, but you can run out of space on the base map and have to use the realtime map to fit in additional changes. As for driveability, ST is definitely the way to go if you have patience. A pro tuner in 45 minutes just can't do as much as tuning yourself over a period of weeks/months in a bunch of different conditions. For those of us with WI we want a non-WI map as a base map then a RT map overlay for WI. Could you elaborate on the running our of space? That coincides with what I was told, but I wish to actually understand better. I also agree with the benefits of tuning yourself. From what I have read (and especially COBB's literature) some things are best done on a dyno, and I am not talking safety concerns. So I hope to get both done. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignignokt Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I wish I understood the running out of space better. It happened to me once - it seems to have something to do with how many cells you put numbers in vs. leave as 0's (a LOT of the cells in the stock/cobb maps are 0), but I don't know that for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I wish I understood the running out of space better. It happened to me once - it seems to have something to do with how many cells you put numbers in vs. leave as 0's (a LOT of the cells in the stock/cobb maps are 0), but I don't know that for sure. That makes sense, I didn't think my tuners were lying to me. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 If you run out of space, I believe there is a way to make additional changes to the basemap using enginuity. Alternatively, once you figure out what you want, you could just use enginuity to generate the entire basemap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKonBLACK Limited Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Now that my AP only has the ST map, what is going to happen when i remarry it to my ECU? ( is it just a stock map that i can tweak? or does it already have changed parameters right out of the box?) I want to use the ST software to run a quick log of my hesitation but in order to log i need to be in live tuning (which means i need the AP married to the ECU) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Now that my AP only has the ST map, what is going to happen when i remarry it to my ECU? ( is it just a stock map that i can tweak? or does it already have changed parameters right out of the box?) Cobb gives you a few maps to start with, stock, St1 and St2 from there you are on your own. http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31214 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKonBLACK Limited Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Thank you, i married my AP back to my car last night with the map labeled Streetuner update, i will flash the stage 2 map tonight and take some logs. seems like the studer i was having dissapears when the ecu gets flashed but relearns after a few hundred miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 If you want to work on the s-t-u-d-d-e-r make a change to the DM before you flash it. Its the open/ closed loop delays A,B and C set them to 100. This worked great for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKonBLACK Limited Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 RC, Fuel Tables Closed Loop Delay A,B and C are all set a 0 0 0 (3 sections per each delay) I should change all 3 sections to 100 percent ex. A/100 100 100 B/100 100 100 C/100 100 100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Hum..stick with 0 Mine were at 300. Here is the thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43450 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I got ST coming, now I need a WB. Any good sensors (don't need a gauge, laptop works fine for me) that use a USB connection, instead of a serial port? Serial port adapters don't seem to like my laptop, I am on my third one, and while I can get them to work they are so finicky! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKonBLACK Limited Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 serial to usb adapter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 My WB is a PLX M-300 USB, made to work with ST. It is excellent and as the name says is USB. I got it here and the service set a new standard for me: http://www.pltek.net/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=40&products_id=419 And as far as gauges, the PLX M-300 USB includes a small digital AFR readout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 serial to usb adapter? See post above yours. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 My WB is a PLX M-300 USB, made to work with ST. It is excellent and as the name says is USB. I got it here and the service set a new standard for me: http://www.pltek.net/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=40&products_id=419 And as far as gauges, the PLX M-300 USB includes a small digital AFR readout. Didn't want to spend an extra $100 but I know I will get good service there, thanks for the recommendation. Anybody else? I will order tomorrow if no other suggestions. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I like the LM1 and it works with my computer and a Serial -> USB adapter. You are going to have to find a serial -> USB adapter anyway to get the OBD2 port to work. Try deleting all of your current drivers and just load the one you need. You cant mix and match them find one that works and get 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I like the LM1 and it works with my computer and a Serial -> USB adapter. You are going to have to find a serial -> USB adapter anyway to get the OBD2 port to work. Try deleting all of your current drivers and just load the one you need. You cant mix and match them find one that works and get 2. I do have an adapter that works for data-logging. I am hoping that that will work for ST. The hassles I went through getting that stupid thing to work were astronomical, despite a few computer experts (they really are good programmers, not just "experts"). I would like to save the $110 though. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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