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Street Tuner/Access Tuner Race Discussion Thread


rao

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Rich,

 

Just grab the AccessEcu folder along with any subdirectories, it should be in the %system drive%\program files directory. Drop it onto your new laptop/pc, then install the HAsp key software, which is in AccessEcu\StreetTuner% directory. Then plug in the Hasp key, then fire it up. That's it:)

 

You can do this for as many pc's as you wish, because you need the Hasp key to run it, you will not exceed the single user license for it. I find this helpful when bored at my previous job, I could be editing maps, then trying them out on my commute home:lol: Not anymore though, my present position is kicking my tail....

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I don't see how a header, and especially the APS EL, could cause it either. Do you have a non-stock intake? And if so, what is your IC. FWIW, my IC for 1.64 is 8.74 and for 1.72 it is 10.22. LBGT's is 8.31 and 9.87 (IIRC). Both of us have the AEM CAI.

 

Do you have the APS Wrap Kit installed on your headers? I do.

 

What are you mods?

 

Well, I can say with near certainty that the surging is caused by the header. I have removed pretty much everything else with no effect. Mods are as follows:

 

AEM intake

VF34

APS Header - no wrap

ebay tmic

sti swap

tgv deletes

nismo injectors

avo pump

turboback exhaust

 

With a scalar of 3680 I have 9.38 and 11.04 in those two spots in the IC. It really doesnt matter much what I put there as the ecu still over-corrects in those blocks. FWIW, in open loop the car drives beautifully (I am tempted to just unplug the sensor and leave it there). I have tried other injectors in various combinations as well as testing the car with nearly all of the mods removed with the exception of the header and always end up with the same results.

 

I think it might also be worth noting that the front left exhaust port has always been a really bright white color while the rest were nice and black. I think that has something to do with my issue but right now I dont have any good ideas of how to correct it. That cylinder is #2 right? Isnt that the common failure point?

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Rich,

 

Just grab the AccessEcu folder along with any subdirectories, it should be in the %system drive%\program files directory. Drop it onto your new laptop/pc, then install the HAsp key software, which is in AccessEcu\StreetTuner% directory. Then plug in the Hasp key, then fire it up. That's it:)

 

You can do this for as many pc's as you wish, because you need the Hasp key to run it, you will not exceed the single user license for it. I find this helpful when bored at my previous job, I could be editing maps, then trying them out on my commute home:lol: Not anymore though, my present position is kicking my tail....

Thanks Edmund :)

 

Good luck on the new job :cool:

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Well, I can say with near certainty that the surging is caused by the header. I have removed pretty much everything else with no effect. Mods are as follows:

 

AEM intake

VF34

APS Header - no wrap

ebay tmic

sti swap

tgv deletes

nismo injectors

avo pump

turboback exhaust

 

With a scalar of 3680 I have 9.38 and 11.04 in those two spots in the IC. It really doesnt matter much what I put there as the ecu still over-corrects in those blocks. FWIW, in open loop the car drives beautifully (I am tempted to just unplug the sensor and leave it there). I have tried other injectors in various combinations as well as testing the car with nearly all of the mods removed with the exception of the header and always end up with the same results.

 

I think it might also be worth noting that the front left exhaust port has always been a really bright white color while the rest were nice and black. I think that has something to do with my issue but right now I dont have any good ideas of how to correct it. That cylinder is #2 right? Isnt that the common failure point?

 

Too many things going on for me to help, unfortunately. But something is definately wrong, and I do NOT think it is the header.

 

Cylinder #2 is the front driver's side one.

 

You say nice and black, that does not describe a properly running cylinder, IMHO. And bright white certainly doesn't either. The 'correct' color is a very light tan approaching white, but certainly not bright white. A black plug is indicative of too much fuel or too cold a plug, along those lines. You seem to have multiple issues affecting different cylinders. Rough.

 

While too much fuel, not burning correctly, will not immediately harm your engine a lean cylinder can definately ruin your day, quickly.

 

My APS headers have an EGT port on each cylinder right off the head. I suggest you begin using yours to investigate your engine.

 

Something is wrong. Faced with this I would first begin with basics, a compression test. Then I would suspect an air leak, perhaps at the TGV or Intake, for the lean cylinder. Obviously, even though you seem to have it covered, I would get the injectors flow tested. And something is wrong, in general, with your fuel, be it Intake Calibration or whatever, as your plugs should not be black. Etc.

 

Headers simply do NOT cause these problems. Think about it; EL headers treat all the cylinders equally. Unless something is wrong with the installation, which I have to assume you have checked, look elsewhere... QUICKLY.

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You say nice and black, that does not describe a properly running cylinder, IMHO. And bright white certainly doesn't either. The 'correct' color is a very light tan approaching white, but certainly not bright white. A black plug is indicative of too much fuel or too cold a plug, along those lines. You seem to have multiple issues affecting different cylinders. Rough.

 

Well I was referring to the exhaust ports themselves which should be black. The last time I looked at the plugs they all looked alright.

 

While too much fuel, not burning correctly, will not immediately harm your engine a lean cylinder can definately ruin your day, quickly.

 

That I am well aware of.

 

My APS headers have an EGT port on each cylinder right off the head. I suggest you begin using yours to investigate your engine.

 

Something is wrong. Faced with this I would first begin with basics, a compression test. Then I would suspect an air leak, perhaps at the TGV or Intake, for the lean cylinder. Obviously, even though you seem to have it covered, I would get the injectors flow tested. And something is wrong, in general, with your fuel, be it Intake Calibration or whatever, as your plugs should not be black. Etc.

 

Headers simply do NOT cause these problems. Think about it; EL headers treat all the cylinders equally. Unless something is wrong with the installation, which I have to assume you have checked, look elsewhere... QUICKLY.

 

I was considering checking egts but I would first need to get my hands on one.

Compression test is good, leakdown test is good. Pressure tested the intake from the turbo to the engine and everything looks ok. Injectors are even, all three sets. Again, plugs were pretty much perfect, the exhaust ports were what I was referring to. Really Im rather surprised that the plug looks good but the port does not.

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Engine itself seems to be in great shape, save for the strange coloring of #2 exh port.... Im really perplexed

 

In view of the thoroughness you have shown, I guess you have made sure that exhaust gasket on that side, and the torque on the bolts, are good?

 

Perplexing indeed.

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Indeed, I have sat under the engine while running and someone revving while feeling everywhere for leaks. Havent found any.

 

Im really tempted to just unplug the o2 sensor and run in open loop.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Any basic tips for tuning for these? I'm starting with a Cobb Stage 2 map for baseline. Specifically:

 

1) VF40 18G: Compared to stock, it has slightly slower spool (about 200 rpms later, more air especially at higher RPMs (I can maintain 16 psi or so at 6500 rpm).

-- WG tables: Was thinking I may need to tweek or it might overboost

-- Fuel tables: Wondering if the increase in air will lean things out too much

 

2) AVO actuator: 15 lb spring vs stock (12 lbs?).

-- Just tweak WG tables?

 

Thanks. Man, after looking at all the posts, I feel like a 2nd grader trying to do nuclear engineering. I may just pay PDX, TDC, etc. to tweak some maps for me. Just hate not being able to tweak things myself.

 

Last, why won't the forum masters make a separate section for tuning so we don't have a 28 page long single thread??? I've asked but heard nothing.

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I've been flipping thru this thread, total noob at this tuning so I am proceding with caution. I want to read the ROM image with enginuity. When I connect and go to ecu flash it says no interface. What type of cable is needed? Right now all I have is my AP ver 1 cable. It looks like I can log with this cable (from what i have read in previous posts) but can I pull the image with this cable?
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  • 2 weeks later...
What does "Cruise Speed" do? I just joined the club today, but non-advanced.

 

 

You can change the min and max cruise control speeds.

 

No more 87mph cruise control limit, hello cruise control at 5 mph!

 

I car about the first one!:)

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ST noob: I haven't married the car to the ST AP yet, am I ok to sort out my base map first and then flash that, or do I have to use the one that the ST installer put on the AP and then change it?
Go ahead and generate a base calibration using your software, transfer the .stb to the AP, then you can Reflash that to the vehicle and tune from there.

 

Christian.

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Christian, Do you recommend using Enginuity to create a Base map when you run out of memory in Street Tuner?
You may have to use a combination of Base and Realtime files to achieve the tune. It really depends on what your are modifying. Although, I have been tuning for some time, and I very seldom run out of base table space, even on highly modified cars. I would focus on modifying tables and areas that are of actual benefit to the car and that the car actually uses. Not to say you are not, just offering advise to those tuning with our software.

 

...and you rock! because turbo wagons RULE. ;)

 

Take care,

Christian.

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I started w/ the COBB Stg 2 91 Streettuner base map.

 

I only modified the things that HAVE to be modified in Base Maps. I had about 22 bytes till capacity. Then, I tried to turn-off all the TGV codes. That is when it said I was out of memory. I am already ONLY using the Base map for base map specific table changes. Thoughts?

 

And thanks, they do rule :lol:

:spin:
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Awesome, thanks!

 

So why can't I set the new top speed above 186 like you have it?

 

Also, does knock detection range high/low give overall area where the ECU is looking (1000-7200)? Or does it only look from 7000-7200 and 1000-1050 only?

:spin:
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