Nonamedude Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 So I'm reassembling some stuff while I wait for more hoses and bolts and stuff to come in. The oil pressure sensor is being weird though. Should it sit flush? It's pretty snug. I cleaned the threads real good and put new sealer on. I don't have a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for my torque wrench but I'm pretty certain I'm at or over the 25 nm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Also any suggestions on what to do about this? On my old photos the flange on the oil return lines up with that bolt hole and the coolant return bolts there. It doesn't look like it's possible to rotate... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Also any suggestions on what to do about this? On my old photos the flange on the oil return lines up with that bolt hole and the coolant return bolts there. It doesn't look like it's possible to rotate... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It does rotate. I think I remember the shop that did my heads telling me they don’t remove them just swing them off to the side when necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 So I'm reassembling some stuff while I wait for more hoses and bolts and stuff to come in. The oil pressure sensor is being weird though. Should it sit flush? It's pretty snug. I cleaned the threads real good and put new sealer on. I don't have a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for my torque wrench but I'm pretty certain I'm at or over the 25 nm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeah that looks right. It’s a tapered pipe thread.(1/8 bpt iirc) Easy enough to get to if it leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 OK I thought it was welded on. Guess it's just a push it really hard thing? On the oil sensor, it's hard to see but there is still like 2 or 3 threads showing which was my concern, but if it's tapered that makes more sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 I also just realized the bolts that came with my new flywheel are not the same torx plus bolts. They are a regular wrench head bolt. Is it ok to use those or do I have to use the torx bolts? Anyone know, I'm putting a list together of final small bits I need. More gaskets and hoses and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 OK I thought it was welded on. Guess it's just a push it really hard thing? On the oil sensor, it's hard to see but there is still like 2 or 3 threads showing which was my concern, but if it's tapered that makes more sense. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkUse an extension that fits in the drain pipe to turn it.I also just realized the bolts that came with my new flywheel are not the same torx plus bolts. They are a regular wrench head bolt. Is it ok to use those or do I have to use the torx bolts? Anyone know, I'm putting a list together of final small bits I need. More gaskets and hoses and such.If you're using a single mass flywheel then hex head bolts are good. If you're using a dual mass flywheel than torx plus is your bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 Ok perfect. Good tip, I may have just like gone for it and that would have been dumb and a lot of effort. Yea single mass flywheel, which is what the car has in the first place. I'd rather not use the torx bolts if I could avoid it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 Here's my oil return pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 I just realized that the oil return pipe is on the head and not the block so it obviously can be turned. I just worried because I know some people have experienced leaks from that pipe. I just don't know if the leaks are from the joint or the brazing and didn't want to weaken anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 The picture shows the stock location of the drain pipe, the rubber hose should fit it fine without moving the pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 8, 2019 Author Share Posted October 8, 2019 Well my concern is less about the oil pipe, looking at yours, it looks like the orientation is fine, almost right in line with the head gasket, I'll have to give it another look. But the flange where you have that bolt going through isn't lined up on mine. So either that flange isn't in the right orientation or the whole pipe is off. Most likely the pipe is rotated off some since that flange is brazed on the pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autoximpreza Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 When the heads are being machined they have to rotate the pipe to mill the head. The pipes are pressfit with a special glue from the factory. I was able to get mine all the way out with a lot of twisting and hard work. Then I used black rtv and pressed it back in at the correct orientation so far I've had no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 Hmm interesting. That makes me think twisting it might break the seal. I think I'm going to try to leave it as is. That flange doesn't really do much and I can still access the bolt hole. I'll try remounting everything and if the turbo goes on without issue then great. If not I'll deal with it then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 Had a little time this afternoon but not much. Thought it'd be enough to do the mudflaps. It wasn't of course. I had to cut off the bolts on the one side I worked on. And idk how on earth there is this much dirt. I ended up dropping the side skirts and knocking a bunch out of the upper part of the fender flare. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 So I've spent forever trying to figure this out. There are three hoses here. One to each valve cover and one to the block itself. Are these coolant or vacuum or what? They are rock solid. My best guess so far is 99071AC220 and 99071AC230 and I can't find the third. Assuming they are vacuum but they don't appear to be dry inside. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Outback-25L-TURBO-5MT-XT-Limited/_54102_6030705/WATER-PIPE-1-WATER-PIPE/B13-036-03.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 vacuum and coolant I believe! I am not sure, but from my memory , two of the lines on that main black pipe with the swirly hose that goes on top of the block go to the pcv system on the valve covers and two are for coolant. The tube with the center swirly hose in block is air. The tube that goes towards the water pump are coolant lines, so bottom is coolant and top is air. The valve covers have two on each side, that black pipe covers two of them, the other two need hoses that connect to the air pipe that connects to the turbo inlet hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 (edited) https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279542&highlight=99071AC230 99071AC010, 99071AC020 and 99071AC240 are the other 3. One of em varies depending on year. so 10, 20, 30 and 40 or 1-4. those are the 4 hoses that connect to the valve covers! Edited October 13, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 i may have mixed up the top and bottom of the black pipe or models might be different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 might be different after 06, my top pipes are air. and bottom are coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Yep it's the same. Lower is coolant but I thought maybe upper was an oil return. If it's part of the pcv system though maybe that's why it looked oily. I don't have super great pictures of all that and it's all just running everywhere. So what's the point of all that? There are 4 hoses pulling vacuum on the heads and at least two of those are connected to the block. Honestly I need to figure out where the pcv when goes. I don't remember pulling it off.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 on each valve cover, one hose is pulling air in while the other is pushing it out, you have to have two on each side to circulate the air. You see ur second circle from the left, it goes in that area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 (edited) the pcv is the one above the black pipe, that has the elbow towards the turbo side and towels ,the white clip. It also has the smaller hose that goes into the intake manifold. and underneath, which you can't see, sits on top of that connection you see in the 1st picture i linked under that coolant line. Edited October 13, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Hmm interesting. That makes me think twisting it might break the seal. I think I'm going to try to leave it as is. That flange doesn't really do much and I can still access the bolt hole. I'll try remounting everything and if the turbo goes on without issue then great. If not I'll deal with it then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Make sure you mount the turbo to the up pipe while the engine is out. hook everything up and make sure the tmic lines up. much easier to do that with the engine out of the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Well I have a new issue. My clutch pressure plate doesn't seem to want to line up? Or I don't understand how it works maybe. I got the excedy fjk1001 clutch kit and the excedy FWSBL02FF flywheel, both of which show as working for this car. If I understand, the pressure plate should bolt to the flywheel right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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