Nonamedude Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 (edited) I know this is a little late, but what makes you think the engine is toast? Was it knocking before it died? Did it lock up? It started making a sudden loud hammering/clattering noise and I lost boost (while driving on the highway.) I towed it to a dealer and they said there was rod knock and it needed an engine and there was metal in the oil. So those are the assumptions that I'm laboring under. I'm thinking I might as a toast rod bearing. I'm not sure. I was driving cross country when it happened and I've never had a vehicle like this so I'm not great with the noises. No CEL or anything. I should have the old engine out tomorrow so maybe I'll have a better idea then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 30, 2019 by Nonamedude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 Well had to work this morning so didn't get started until the evening. Took a look at a bunch of stuff and I'm nearly positive I got everything disconnected. Took a look at how people were mounting the hoist and took the ac compressor off the bracket and mounted there and at this big ol bracket attached by the transmission. I got a really big gap but I'm stumped on why it's not releasing. The gap is wider than my chisel and the shaft of the big flat head so I'm not sure. Any thoughts? Called it for the night. Released everything and made sure the motor was in the mount placements and not sitting on the bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 New short block comes with new dowel pins. In my case and most likely yours the old dowel pins stayed behind in the transmission. IIRC I was able to drive the old ones out from the back side with hammer and screwdriver. I didn’t have to pull the motor all the way out to do it, just a safe enough distance forward to not damage anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 Looks like you are almost there. If I remember correctly, the only thing left at this point is the shaft of the transmission in the pilot bearing (in the flywheel). If it hasn’t released that indicates that it’s binding. You need to figure out how to adjust the angle of the engine auto the tranny ever so slightly when pulling and it should release. (This is assuming that nothing else is hanging up like hoses, exhaust, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 FWIW, I recall I had to jack up the rear of the car when installing the new engine to get the input shaft lined up. May be support the tranny or give it a little pump up with the jack under the tranny. Remember you have raise the engine to clear the mount bolts, may need to support the tranny so its not wanting to drop. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 Mine came right loose by supporting the front a little off the subframe with a jack, lifting so the mount studs come clear and then prying on both sides with a prybar in increments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 Awesome thanks for the tips. It's def the pins. I've gotten the passenger side lose and working on the driver. Just soaked it with more pb blaster. I've been supporting the trans as it comes up and I've got a load leveler so I've been trying to angle it and stuff. The shaft may be binding but I think it's just that the pin is stuck. Might need a different pry bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 Got it. Need to run to the store and grab some different washers and bolts for better mounting to the stand and that's probably where I call it today. Not sure what's next. I guess start stripping it down. Inspect everything and go from there. That last picture is the snout people talk about the throwout bearing messing up? It looks solid to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 TOB looks intact, so snout is probably OK. Pull the TOB off the shift fork and look at the casting that supports the shaft seal to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 Good to see you got it out. I agree with ^, clean the snout, and then you'll know for sure. Only take apart what you need, I suggest removing the whole intake assembly from the heads. You'll see that in my thread. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 3, 2019 Author Share Posted September 3, 2019 Well did some more work today. Started with a ton of pictures of where everything was connected for future reference. Then drained the oil. Didn't see any metal in it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but I figured metal would be obvious. The dealer told me there was metal in the oil when they drained a little during their assessment. Got the air octopus off, that's what I've been calling it. I think it's actually the air intake manifold? Had to take off the tgv with it if course. Took a bit too figure out. The fuel lines are still attached to it because holy hell removing them from the hard lines is impossible. Maybe a special tool would help? Looks like my fuel injectors have been replaced. Marked as denso but didn't look up the part number. Anyone know anything about these. I thought OE were yellow tops. I'll probably get them cleaned and tested and all that. Also noticed the turbo side of my turbo inlet looked kinda shiny? I don't think that's supposed to be like that. TGV look good though. Not like covertrussian did. I was thinking of pulling off the butterfly valve and cutting out the divider bar and leaving the motor and butterfly bar in place. I only have a dremel so maybe it's not worth the effort but I thought while I had them out. Don't want to have to retune and fix the CEL when I first get it back together. Here's where I left it. Pulled the oil pan. Should have waited until it was farther along but I was hoping to see something of why I'm doing all this. I was working by a shop light so maybe I'm wrong but I couldn't see any metal in the oil pan either. Just some of the weird gasket goop I had to break away with the chisel. Shouldn't metal be more obvious? At this point I just want to know what caused this endeavor. I'll get to it eventually I'm sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 Most do see metal floating or a shiny film on top. Grab the rods and see if you can move any of them or if one looks over heated. Can you look up the cylinders to inspect the walls ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 I don't remember if you mentioned it, but get an aftermarket oil pick up tube. The OEM does fail, not always but they do. I had one fail, but luckily I caught it early before catastrophic engine damage. The Moroso oil pick up is better IMO and not that expensive either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 3, 2019 Author Share Posted September 3, 2019 Max- Yea I still need to remove the oil pick up and what I'm guessing is the windage tray and stuff to get to the rod. I'm guessing that's where I'll see my problem. Can't rotate the dang engine on the stand to save my life though. It was also dark so I'll try to take a look at the oil pan with natural light instead of that big light I was working with. XT- Yea I just figured I would replace most anything that touches the oil just because. I already ordered a new OE pan with the killer b pick up and windage tray. It looks like the OE one is ok but I figured why not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 The oil pick up tube issue was on late 05-early 06's as I recall. I'm still on the one that came in my early 05, build date May 28 2004. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 3, 2019 Author Share Posted September 3, 2019 Yea I've read about it but it doesn't seem to be a huge issue. And I'm pretty sure the windage tray is absolute overkill but I figured why not. I'm not sure if contamination of the oil pickup is a huge concern. It looks like a pipe so I'm thinking it'd be easy to clean out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 When you get time, tighten the screw type clamps on the fuel lines under the manifold. I rotated them so I can get them from the top. Hopefully you don't have metal in the oil system... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logie_OBXT Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 Here's a little tip I learned the hard way when I put my new engine in using the Harbor Freight 2 ton hoist: remove the front bumper. Yes, it reaches and you can get the engine out, but as you saw, you had a bit of trouble getting it to separate. That's because of the angle from the hoist causes binding and you end up fighting physics. Trying to get the engine back in without removing the bumper will make you want to scream. I spent almost 3 days trying to install it without removing the bumper and 10 minutes installing it once I did remove the bumper. I hope this saves you a little bit of time and a lot of frustration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 When you get time, tighten the screw type clamps on the fuel lines under the manifold. I rotated them so I can get them from the top. Hopefully you don't have metal in the oil system... Hope not! But either way it's getting all new parts after this much time effort and money. Good friend of mine and long time mechanic who rebuilds subies for fun has interest in the block. If there is no metal in it but something wrong with the crank or pistons (he's rebuilding one with a shot rod bearing right now) I might be able to trade him the block for the labor of head tear down, inspection, cleaning, machining, and reassemble onto my new block. Here's a little tip I learned the hard way when I put my new engine in using the Harbor Freight 2 ton hoist: remove the front bumper. Best tip ever. Absolutely will do. I ended up going and getting an even bigger pry bar and between the 36" crow bar leverage and the pb blaster, it finally popped right off. That makes sense though because when it did the engine dropped a half inch. I'd been terrified it was going to swing into the condensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 As far as the fuel lines, I absolutely plan to swivel those around. I also don't plan to reinstall that bolt so I can take off just the intake manifold if I ever need to in the future. That said. All those lines are impossible to remove from the hard lines. I don't have much fear of them leaking from a loose connection but should I replace them? I can't really seem to get them off but they look pretty gross. I pulled them off the little uhhh bell shaped things by the firewall (terrible idea, should have just bought the quick release tool) and damaged those lines so I'll at least need those new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 My wagon still has the fuel lines the car came with One tip about removing the fuel lines/hoses, twist them first after loosening the clamp. Don't just try pulling them off. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Sweet sounds like a leave well enough alone thing then. Yea I tried twisting them. With two people and Vise grips and pliers. I noticed from pictures, the 05-06 are different. Definitely gonna spin those clamps though so I can access them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Got off early today so did some more work. There is a ton of metal particles easily visible in the oil filter. I couldn't feel any real play in the rod, no different from the new short block, but it does look like it's been smacking things. The driver side valve cover has a lot of oil on it. I'm thinking just from people who can't fill it smoothly. Drivers plugs Passenger I think they have about 20k on them but the drivers side look kinda grimy? The coil packs also seem to be separating I guess? Not sure if it's just the bracket or what it is. Still can't get the crank pulley off. Going to hit it with more penetrating spray and then maybe the torch if it's still stubborn tomorrow. Might need another set of hands and a cheater bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 The oil stains on the driver side valve cover may be due to a failing oring between the oil filler neck and valve cover. I had to change one of these a few months back. could also be leaking valve cover gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 (edited) If you still have the flywheel on, just lodge something in one of the holes and the top hole with the rubber cover or whatever that allows it to stop spinning and then use a breaker bar on the crank pully. Its easier to break that bolt with the flywheel still on. Edited September 7, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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