Tehnation Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Nothing wrong with battery powered ones. A bunch have some real muscle to them, Ingersoll Rand 1/2" 20v is a beast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Well I think the drain holes in the lift gate are clogged. I feel like I read somewhere about that being a thing that happens. When I opened the rear Saturday some water came out of the taillight interior trim door thingy. Not much but we are supposed to get a full day of rain tomorrow so I'm planning to wash it this afternoon and cover it until I can deal with that. I think I found a machine shop. A reference from this forum whose built a few motors for the person. They sound like they know what they are doing and they have a full repair shop they run as well. I'm going to let them take off the cams and heads and all that. Hopefully I can get it there this week. Gonna send out the fuel injectors to be cleaned and the turbo is on its way to jmp. Hoping to clean the engine bay and put in the shifter bushings and transmission mounts I got this weekend. Pulled the throwout bearing (didn't realize you literally just pull it off) and the snout looks pretty good to me so I think that'll be OK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 You have a wagon right? Carefully check the back up light housing gaskets. They may be failing. It happened to me. used some silicon and problem fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Yea an outback. Is that a pull the lights and it's the sealant holding it together issue? Or is it a gasket between the lights and the body? Either way I'm guessing pull the lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 it's some type of foam gasket between the body and the light housing. It falls apart overtime. I also got water inside the backup light housing. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/condensation-in-reverse-light-water-dripping.438585/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 Smart move on letting the shop pull the heads off. You'll thank yourself over and over again. Last summer I had one tail light with a little moisture in it. I pulled it off, let it bake in the sun for a couple day's. When it was dry inside, I ran a bead of RTV around the seam. Still dry. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 OK cool. Once I get some time, maybe while the engine and turbo are gone, I'll try to pull the lights and see what I can figure out. I can't remember where I read it, but there was something about the drain holes in the liftgate getting clogged and leading to rusting. So I'll look at that and the lights. Those gaskets on the reverse lights look pretty simple. Was looking at a parts diagram earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 I pulled the heads myself.... its easy and you save some dollars for brainless work. But then again i replaced the old bolts with arp head studs. I paid about 1800 and change for labor and king bearings to rebuild my longblock, install of oil pump was included. I also changed everything else with forged pistons and rods and bigger cams, but labor alone + bearings and whatever lil things were 1800 or so. I bought a complete gasket set, Subaru 10105AA720, so i had a bunch of stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 11, 2019 Author Share Posted September 11, 2019 I ran through rough pricing on everything when I called. I've never done all this and got worried about trying to pull the cams (the gears that the timing belt is on, maybe that's the cam gears?) without proper tools. Maybe it'd be fine, maybe I'd break something. I can't remember exact pricing but if everything is good with the heads, pulling them, machining, and reassembly is only around 500. And I'm tired of fighting with bolts haha. It gets things moving quicker and I can work on other stuff in the meantime. Don't pulling and replacing the heads need more special tools? I can justify general tools but I don't plan on doing a new block on a subaru again any time soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 OK cool. Once I get some time, maybe while the engine and turbo are gone, I'll try to pull the lights and see what I can figure out. I can't remember where I read it, but there was something about the drain holes in the liftgate getting clogged and leading to rusting. So I'll look at that and the lights. Those gaskets on the reverse lights look pretty simple. Was looking at a parts diagram earlier. knock on wood, my wagon hasn't had this issue. The tail lights come out easy once you pop those little plastic plugs that cover the two bolts. If I recall correctly. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 11, 2019 Author Share Posted September 11, 2019 Well I guess I've given myself a new project once the engine is done. Got it dropped off at the machine shop this morning. I didn't realize the jdm interior had a full black option. I'm already going to do the radio, giving me a black bezel and a/c and I went ahead and got a spare shifter trim and non wood radio trim that I'm thinking of wrapping in black. Well looks like I'm going to try to get those a and b pillar trim in black in the for sale section and will try to find the c and d pillars and liftgate trim as well. Likely leave the headliner tan and try to get black sun visors and oh shit handles. Maybe a black sun roof panel as well. I'd already decided that I wasn't going to do the center console jdm swap due to cost and effort but looks like I'm going to do this instead. I hate the weird champagne radio that's the only thing that color and not a huge fan of the wood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 I will just say, IMO I would not change to much stuff while the engine is out. I'm just scared of all those electronic gremlins.... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 11, 2019 Author Share Posted September 11, 2019 Oh yea. I got excited and started getting ahead of myself a few weeks back. No interior changes until the vehicle is reassembled and running. That's why I haven't done an hid swap or radio or any of that yet. Besides, since the battery isn't in it, I can't test any of the electrical as I go. I'm just planning and buying things as I see them come up used if I get them first. It's kinda a weird position because I realized I started this in mid June and it likely won't run until October with some stuff coming up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Well I haven't heard back from the machine shop yet. Not super worried about it. Thinking I'll have the turbo back early next week. This past weekend I did the pads and rotors on my friends Titan and was thinking about the condition of my own and that's how I found out the outback has undersized brakes! Terrible thing. I was thinking I'd run by a pull and pay and grab some used calipers. Then down the road rebuild and paint them. There is an lgt nearby as well as two Tribecas. For $15 a caliper why not as I'll need pads and rotors eventually. What I'm trying to figure out is, all 4th Gen lgt front a rear calipers and brackets are good. Front calipers from a Tribeca are good but not the rears. Something somewhere about certain newer outbacks being good. More or less what cars can I pull the lgt brakes from. Or is that a terrible idea and I should just buy some remans instead of trying to redo them myself? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 (edited) I do recall when I did the rears on my GT wagon the first time I had to buy 2.5R Impreza pads, because the auto parts stores didn't carry 2005 GT brakes yet. That was May 24 2006 at 50,100 miles. I know I had the pad number written down next to my PC back then...but I didn't write them in my note book for the car. Sorry Funny thing at that time we had a 2.5R in the driveway from time to time, my son found it for his GF. I came from NY state, she/they paid like $6000 for it, they sold it four years later for $6000 to a guy who flew in from CA paid cash and drove it back to CA. Edited September 17, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 No worries. I'm hoping to just pull them from an lgt and eliminate any confusion on my part. Just heard from the machine shop. The heads need to be rebuilt and needs replaced exhaust valve guides. That's all above my knowledge in the end. They also said (and told me when I talked to them prior) that when they build the heads for the turbo subarus they have much less problems when they use high temp exhaust valves. I'm guessing due to the issues in the tune that make it run lean and therefore burn hotter (I think that's how all that works). A bummer since I wasn't hoping to pay a ton but fine since I still have plenty of funding set aside. And better than having a problem down the road. I'm going down there tomorrow to bring them gaskets and stuff so I'll see if I can get pictures of anything. Cuz pics are fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 My machine shop told me about the burnt valves issue too. That was after I told them about my Tuner and what he told me about the factory MAP. Mark Eastwood the owner said, that explains why we see so many of these heads with burnt valves. My wagons heads, on Cobb AP since 8000 miles were the first set of these heads he ever saw that didn't need any valves at 154,000 miles on them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Yea. They do a lot of work for the dealers so I'm not surprised. I had just hoped the valve issues the previous owner had meant the valves would be good. But I don't think he knew enough. I looked through the paper work and couldn't really tell. They did something but idk what exactly. In the end I'll have a new block and rebuilt heads with new valves. I'll get a tune which will eliminate myself having problems in the future from someone else's use of the car or the bad subaru tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 curious, whats bad about the factory MAP? Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 The short of it is that there is a delay between the closed and open loop on all 04+ turbo Subaru. Apparently it's worse on the newer cars looking at nasioc. It's to help meet emissions standards and causes the car to run lean as it enters boost leading to knock and high exhaust gas temps. Causes burnt and then sticky valving and helps or possibly causes the ringland failures. Apparently the valves commonly become a problem a little over 100k. I think I have that all correct but someone is welcome to correct me. Basic stage 1 tunes frequently are to eliminate that and I think help balance out the cyclinders? Something about cyl 4 likes to die and the position of the knock sensor? There is a wealth of stuff on nasioc and covertrussian has a lot about it. If you read through max capacities build thread there is discussion about material vs tune for ringland failures and someone on nasioc did an actual material analysis of the pistons but it's a bit beyond my material knowledge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 So best maintenance is to fix silly factory stuff. So pull banjo bolt filters, remove the uppipe cat, make sure your turbo is good, get a stage 1 tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 Well not many pictures. The person who had pulled the heads was gone but the guy rebuilding them was there and we talked for a few. The other head looked a bit better but the valves aren't great. Going to replace the exhaust valves and guides. They said the intake side looked pretty OK and that there wasn't much benefit to doing anything to it anyway unless I wanted to push more power than I plan to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 20, 2019 Author Share Posted September 20, 2019 So I sent my injectors out to deatschwerks for full fuel injector service. I have no idea how long they've been on the car but they are the stock injectors so likely are original. They just let me know that they flow tested them and there was no need for a rebuild and everything looked good. Saved me some money and I know they are good to go now. Pretty happy with that. I always enjoy when someone I've told to do a bunch of service takes care of me instead of just taking my money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 Good to hear there are still a few places like that still around. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 They did the same thing for me when I sent in some topfeeds I had bought used. Solid outfit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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