Nonamedude Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 Hmm I can't seem to find an answer but it seems like I can't use btssm to delete CEL. I'm thinking I need ecuflash and a tactic or a cobb AP. I already have an obdlink mx and don't own a windows computer. Maybe someone local can help me out to delete the codes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Contact Dave at Cryo Tuning. https://www.cryotuneperformance.com/ Or check the stickys at the top of the Tuning forum ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 My understanding through reading through those is that I can't use a vagcom cable. So I'd need a tactrix (and new computer) or an AP for anything. I was planning to do a local tune since I don't have the stuff to etune and there's not a sticky or anything I can find specifically about deleting cel. It's one of the few times my chromebook has failed me. Thought about borrowing someone's laptop but not sure I want to do something to my car that I don't have easy access to do again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Found this guy in your area doing a search, https://www.wtftuned.com/ There used to be a Honda Tuner that helped us out back in 2004-2007 time frame, damn, I can't remember his name. Met him once at a race at Englishtown. He was kind a mentor for my son along with a few others for the High Horse Power Honda day's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 Yea I was also suggested simple performance for a good local place. I just wish I could use romraider and ecu flash from linux/ios/Android. I'll take a look around and see what I can find. Maybe I can get my mechanic buddy to come by with his work computer. Either way time to post in the local forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 I see Dave from Cryo has posted in forum recently...he may have some info you can learn from. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 Can anyone help identify this bracket? I know of the uppipe to head and the one that goes to the turbo heat shield. Unfortunately I didn't label this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 I could be wrong but it looks like the bracket that holds the stock boost controller on the intake manifold above the power steering pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 I could be wrong but it looks like the bracket that holds the stock boost controller on the intake manifold above the power steering pump. You're absolutely correct. That makes sense why I didn't label it, it's not going back on. I'll label it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Well after about 3 hours of struggling, I gave up trying to put the engine in. I can't get it to mate up with the trans. I can get the two long studs off the engine into the transmission but it doesn't want to go further and it's not hung up on the engine mounts. I've tried changing the angle, jamming it around, moving it from under the car, a second set of hands to work the lift, jacking up the rear of the car, jacking up the transmission and various combinations of these. Best I can tell is the main shaft isn't going into the clutch. Maybe daylight and sleep will help, although it's supposed to be snowing and 34 in the morning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 its much easier with another person. and make sure your turbo isnt hitting the tranny, i had that problem. if u had another person they could spin one of the wheels and make the input shaft spin to get it to line up better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Unfortunately my other person is 5'2 and was having a hard time helping much. Turbo was hitting so that got pulled off. Good suggestion on having someone spin the wheels. I couldn't really tell if that was the issue or not. But I'm not really sure what else it could be. There's nothing else there. Couldn't see anything and trying to grab a phone pic didn't help. I was worried the shaft was way off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 (edited) I'm not really sure if the wheel should spin completely, now that I am remembering, it may be just enough play to rock the wheel back and forth enough to make the input shaft spin those millimeters it needs. I did it a while ago and so much has gone on in between... It might be that when you turn the wheels without the input splines in contact with the engine, it can turn, but when its engaged with the engine you will have the engine resistance as well which will make turning the wheel really hard to do, pretty much wont turn. So basically what i think i'm getting at is if the tires can spin then its not engaged, if they can't then your heading in the right direction and can use the bolts to seal/pull the tranny to engine. Edited October 27, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Unfortunately my other person is 5'2 and was having a hard time helping much. Turbo was hitting so that got pulled off. Good suggestion on having someone spin the wheels. I couldn't really tell if that was the issue or not. But I'm not really sure what else it could be. There's nothing else there. Couldn't see anything and trying to grab a phone pic didn't help. I was worried the shaft was way off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk This is one of the harder parts of reinstalling the engine. Getting the angle as aligned as possible, then either rotate the engine slightly via a breaker bar on the crank pulley or trying to rock a wheel to help the input shaft splines align with the clutch. If you can do that while there is some tension trying to push them together, you’ll feel it when it aligns and shifts closer together. Last time I did it, it took an hour or messing with it to get all the angle and splines aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 I ended up in the engine bay and just manhandled it on.... I don't recommend it... horrible for your back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 So the input shaft is definitely in. It'll still spin unless you put it in gear, which I didn't think about. It's got maybe a 1/4" apart and I can't really tell what it's hanging up on. There's nothing in between, the dowel pins are just on the edge, the bottom bolts are out the back of the trans. It feels like I should just pull it together the rest of the way with the bolts. I can rock it side to side and see the dowel pins move in, but I can't push it straight back. Raising or lowering either the trans or engine doesn't do it and I just can't think of what it's hanging up on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 I decided I was confident and brought it that last 1/4" with one trans bolt and one starter bolt. Had someone checking the crank pulley wasn't binding as it was slowly brought together. It's officially in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Make sure the TOB fork didn't fall off the pivot ball. Before you finish bolting the tranny in. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Ah crap I hope it didn't. I'll check that. I should just be able to pivot it around yea? Should I be able to work the clutch now without issue or do I need all the bolts in to make sure that feels right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Make sure the piston from the slave cylinder moves in a horizontal plane, not at a downward angle. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 Make sure the piston from the slave cylinder moves in a horizontal plane, not at a downward angle. It looks like it's moving straight. Glad I don't need to take the whole thing out again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 Well I think it probably took a total of five hours or so. I think it helped that I changed the lift mount points to better balance the engine. It was much easier today. Today's difficulty was because any time I needed to think about what I was doing, I had to go inside. But the engine is back in. Now time to start bolting stuff up. Turbo, ac, ps steering, alternator, all that fun jazz. I talked to Dave at cryo and he said breaking it in on the stock tune would be fine. I had a forum member from nasioc offer to come by with a tactrix cable but when the engine gave me difficulties I told him not to worry. I have my own showing up this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 You're almost there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 So I have the a/c compressor and power steering pump on now. Went to put on the alternator and realized idk what order all these washers on the drive side bolt (there's three. Two large one small). Thought maybe I'd leave it until I do belts, plenty else to do. I also learned that I have the wrong oil dipstick tube. It angles slightly left and interferes with the secondary air pump. I remember not being able to get the original out with the timing covers on (I bent it badly). I'm debating on bending this one into position. I can't imagine it's any easier to change. Vacation pics has no answers I could find. Also realized my engine cover likely won't fit over that turbo inlet. Likely working a half day Wednesday, so maybe I can get a bunch more done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 Well I've been working on stuff here and there. Turns out I bought the front oxygen sensor instead of the MAF sensor. Not the end of the world. Need to check and see if I got the wrong part or I ordered the wrong thing. Hoping to get all belts and everything on Saturday and either Saturday or Sunday try the first start up. Unrelated to the build, I noticed this on the seam of my hood. Unlike a flat panel where some sanding, clr, and touch might do the trick. I'm unsure what to do here. Maybe just plan on a new hood in the future and not refinishing this one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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