teranaut

Any chance you'd be willing to pull the exterior left rear door handle for me?

The Kenwood site is still only showing v.12 as the latest offering for the following vehicles: Tribeca- 2006-2014 Legacy- 2006-2009 Outback- 2006-2009 And v.10 for the following vehicles: Outback-2010-12 Legacy-2010-12 Impreza/WRX/STI 2008-2011 Forester-2009-2011 Not seeing anything on a v.14 for the Kenwood nav unit.

Have a look at this post. It saved me when I was running into the same issue on my '07.

Thanks a bunch Dr. Dave! Now, off to source some proper housings.

Could someone fill me in on rev A-C JDM headlight fitment with USDM fenders? Will I need replacement fenders and a bumper like the rev D-F USDM to JDM facelift?

All PMs have been responded to.

I got my last full set of Bilstein strut replacements for my Spec.B from FastWRX (SKU: K08308). I think they're B6s though. They definitely won't fit the stock top hats in my 2.5i; so if you're planning that swap, add a set of top hats to the list of parts to buy (SKU#: K05060). I'm not sure if the standard GT uses the same top hat as the Spec.B though, so one more thing to verify. In either case, I prefer them over the standard 2.5i suspension. I think they're a good balance for a suspension. Not too soft or hard.

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Something like this, but imagine the pocket behind the face plate: Do you have any pictures of the side of the HU you have there?

Based on the picture, it looks like you have to remove the bezel and mounting bracket from the head unit and mount the HU behind the face plate on the side mounting brackets using the appropriate hardware for your HU. Do you have the single DIN pocket to fill the space in the double DIN Scosche face plate kit you have? If not, you'll have a gap until you put a plate or single DIN pocket filler in there.

I decided it was time for some cable spaghetti this weekend and dove into my iDatalink Maestro RR2/Kenwood Excelon DMX907S installation. First, spaghetti and integrating the i88 and i85 harnesses (Thanks SVXdc): Next, a bit of double DIN and confirming the iDatalink is talking with the car over the CAN pair before binding up all of the wires: Finally, buttoned up while I find a solution for the two tone and debate playing with the gaps some more: Next week...probably a detail. She's getting dusty inside.

I have a JDM double DIN single climate set that I'm looking to get rid of since I don't need it. Looking for $325+shipping (US/CA). There are a couple of points to note, including the notches that were expanded shown in the second and third pictures. As well as the slight scuffing of one of the knobs that you can see in the first and fourth picture. This listing includes all items seen in the first photo. (Double DIN face plate, Single Climate HVAC Controls, and JDM hazard switch) I'd prefer to sell as a set. PayPal/Venmo preferred

I have been using these images for my 2007 Spec.B without issue. I'd have to pull my nav unit to give you any details on the model/version of it. The v.12 disc images I have are listed by Kenwood as being compatible with the following: Tribeca- 2006-2014 Legacy- 2006-2009 Outback- 2006-2009

Yeah, Rufus, balena etcher, dd, etc. are more for writing IMG/ISO to bootable removable media. Brasero and ImgBurn work well for writing to optical media. Just select a low burn speed so you get a good write. The lower the better, but it does take more time.

Update, I ended up just using a virtual machine to test the burning process with ImgBurn. I used version 2.5.8.0 to write the image and then took it down to my car to make sure it loaded. I used the same type of DVD+R DL disc and 2x write speed as in the previous post. Attached is a screenshot of the output from the burn. The error at the end is just because I didn't load the disc back in for the verification pass. Also, here's a video of that disc being used in my vehicle:

@LegacyUpNorth, were you able to get a successful burn with Johnish's process? Sorry about not getting back to this thread, I have been unreasonably busy with work lately. All PMs replied to. I haven't been able to test the ImgBurn procedures documented earlier in this thread yet, but I did test using Brasero on Ubunutu to write the ISO to disc. I selected 2x instead of maximum for the write speed. The disc is a Memorex DVD+R DL rewriteable because it was the only thing I could find in my old stacks of optical media. I have a USB optical drive now and will report back this evening on the ImgBurn process. The Brasero process is documented here: https://linuxconfig.org/ubuntu-20-04-burn-iso-to-dvd

I don't have a PC with an optical drive here at home, but I'll check on this when I get back into the office tomorrow morning. When I tested it I was burning using Linux, not Windows/ImgBurn.

All PMs responded to. Hope you folks aren't getting lost anymore.

Perhaps you can help me with the following items: *Driver/passenger sun visors *Shift bezel *Shift boot (Foam/rubber one under the shift bezel) *Steering column cover (top, but would buy both if necessary) *Hood scoop (depending on condition) *Trunk pad handle *Rear mud guards (forward of tire) *Trunk foam retaining pins ...Better stop there before I have to road trip or my wallet needs an ambulance.

PMs answered.

Decided a couple months back to upgrade my maps to v12 without checking this thread. As a result, I have two fresh images (East/West) ripped from the discs I purchased. DM me if you need the maps.

Dang..that beast is LOW. I dig it.

Ball joints came in yesterday afternoon, so you know I had to put those in. Noticed a bit of a tear forming on one of the CV boots, along with a healthy dose of iron oxides. Looks like I'll be doing new CVs in the near future. This car is going to have new everything if I keep this up...

I agree, it definitely leveled things out. There are 3/4" and 1" sized spacers available as well, but I thought those would be too much for my car. Looking at it now, I probably could have gone with 3/4" and made wheel gaps even.

Put a little more love into the Spec.B this weekend. Added 1/2" saggy butt spacers and replaced all of the anti-roll bar linkages with Kartboy billets. Stance didn't change much with the spacers, but it made a lot of difference in going through dips/driveways. Before: After: