What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[KZJonny]

2 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

05-06 used low beams as DRL. 07-09 use high beam as DRL. Anyone who has done a HID retrofit for 05-06 generally removes drl so the ballasts don't burn out prematurely.

Ah! Okay, that makes things a lot clearer.

Interesting then that my car came with an HID kit and the DRL was still there. HIDs are gone now, so it all works like OE. But it cerainly makes sense that you'd kill bulbs faster that way.

[TMBLKDG]

Just got the car back from having a Tomei UEL header, IAG oil pan, and Cobb SF intake installed.

The results were not what I was expecting or hoping for. See my build thread in the 4th gen forum for all the details.

I will say, as long as you keep the RPMs above 3500 this car hauls ass now.  350whp and 367 tq at the peaks.  There just aren't many places I can drive it like that around here... LOL.

[m sprank]

Sold my 4Runner today for a profit.  Wheres my 4th gen LGT wagon????

[Gex]

Another track day for the Camel wagon. Love this car. Unreal on the slicks. Need to do more for oil cooling though. Perrin oil cooler be damned.  I suspect I’m going to ditch this killer b header soon. It is massive and just bakes the oil pan and oil filter. Switch back to my AP header with much more clearance. 

Chasing down a PDK GT4. Don’t mind that oil temp warning.

Edited August 13, 2023 by Gex

[shralp]

11 hours ago, Gex said:

Another track day for the Camel wagon. Love this car. Unreal on the slicks. Need to do more for oil cooling though. Perrin oil cooler be damned.  I suspect I’m going to ditch this killer b header soon. It is massive and just bakes the oil pan and oil filter. Switch back to my AP header with much more clearance. 

Chasing down a PDK GT4. Don’t mind that oil temp warning.

 

What are you running for slicks and how many days would you say you're getting out of them?  Still comtemplating going that route but its an expensive one if I'm blowing thru tires like I do with 200TW on the track  

[Gex]

20 minutes ago, shralp said:

What are you running for slicks and how many days would you say you're getting out of them?  Still comtemplating going that route but its an expensive one if I'm blowing thru tires like I do with 200TW on the track  

Hoosier A7. They get greasy after about 8-9 laps. I think I can get 4 days from a set. They wear pretty fast. I’ll get the R7 next time. A set of those should last a whole season.

[10samuelr]

Swapped from this 3.0 spec b to a jdm tuned by sti, with a bmw e91 in between.  
 

The tbsti fixes all that I didn’t like about the 3.0 spec b. You don’t need to rev the nuts off it to make progress. As fun as revving out a 3.0 flat 6 is, it get’s tiring on a daily driver. The instant shove of the ej20 makes daily driving easier. 
 

It’s also more compliant over our bad roads. Must be less unsprung weight of the wheels and alloy suspension components.  
 

Both were/are 5eat but the mapping seems different. Theres more of a kick when changing gears in the TBSTI. In the sti brochure it does mention a revised map.  
 

 

 

Edited August 13, 2023 by 10samuelr

[jaylew]

Passed 260k. Keep on trucking...and burning oil

[Max Capacity]

I just removed the Brembo front brake pads, which were impossible to get rid of the brake shimmy, in the Spec B. I installed some old Ceramic pads I removed from either the wagon or the Spec years ago. Did a short test drive and brake bedding process, much better.

I installed this front set of Brembo's back on Nov 25 2022 at 101,600 miles, today the car has 103,580 miles. At that time, Nov 2022, I did install rotors that had been resurfaced. 

I did install both front calipers, (free from NAPA) back on Aug 26 2020 at 93,333 mile, those were replacements from both front calipers (and rear calipers) I installed, May 20 2017 at 78,245 miles.

Also, I had to replace both rear caliper brackets on Aug 20 2020 at 93,300 miles because they had 3 frozen pins. (free from NAPA). It continues, I replaced the right rear caliper Oct 2 2020 at 96,620 miles and flushed brake fluid.

Also flushed brake fluid Oct 20 2022 at 101,125 miles.

Getting tired of working on the brakes, but they do come apart easy... LOL

Today's pad change took 35 minutes. That includes waiting for the air compressor to charge up while jacking up the front end.

[SilentJ20]

On 8/11/2023 at 10:36 AM, KZJonny said:

Not to get caught in the details, but does the DRL not run on the low beams? Just that I was under the impression it did.

I've also been sort of curious about this whole DRL debate. Is it the fact that the module runs (whichever...) bulbs on reduced wattage that is the problem? Ie: I was under the impression that on DRL mode, the bulbs are fed like 50-60% of normal amperage, so run a little dimmer, and it is this that causes their effective lives to be shortened. Meaning people are always running at 100% power output on the bulbs. (This is what I do, the first thing I do when I turn the car on is go to full output on headlights.)

OR

Is it that people are disabling the DRLs and driving around without any headlights on at all? And this is the way to get "longer life" out of your bulbs? This would mean driving with only the marker lights on?

 

Geniunely curious as where I live headlights on or DRLs is mandatory and quite vigourously enforced by the Po. If I'm allowed an opinion, I'm glad for it, since it makes it much easier to keep track of all the cars around you. I personally find it super annoying when people are driving around without full headlighting on, but if it's allowed in your jurisdiction, it's not on me to judge. I've seen alot about defeating the DRL module and always wondered what the deal was.

Yeah, like rhino said, the DRL on some years of Legacies (and various other cars and manufacturers) run the high beam bulbs at about half power.  A lot just don't care for the look, as the light ends up being VERY warm orange/yellow.

If someone wanted to do an LED swap or something this dual-voltage to the bulbs can be a hurdle.  Not sure what I'll do yet, but I still have normal function halogen high beams for now.

As far as I can tell DRLs are not legally required anywhere in the USA, so the police cannot actually enforce them unless there are local requirements to do so.  I don't know how they would, either, since older cars would have to be grandfathered in.  And since the adoption years vary so much in the US, it's almost impossible to know what models/years came with them.

DRLs started in Sweden in the late 70s, Volvo and Saab were the first brands to use them.  Sweden is so far north, a lot of driving happens at dusk, when visibility is the worst.  DRLs are absolutely helpful there.  But in the US in broad daylight, I find DRLs actually make it harder for me to see cars clearly as the bright LEDs they use nowadays really make it hard to for depth perception to track things.  Numerous reports discuss how DRL lead to false security (thinking actual headlights are on), and they actually lead to more crashes since without also turning on rear lights, certain driving conditions are more hazardous.  Like following a DRL-equipped car in the fog.  The DRL car thinks they can see ok because of the light, but the car behind them has a hard time seeing them without any rear lights on.

Just a personal choice for me.  I don't disagree with DRLs overall, but I think they need to be way less bright and flashy in order to be effective and not have the drawbacks.  If visibility is an issue, I'll turn on my driving lights so others can see me.

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, SilentJ20 said:

Yeah, like rhino said, the DRL on some years of Legacies (and various other cars and manufacturers) run the high beam bulbs at about half power.  A lot just don't care for the look, as the light ends up being VERY warm orange/yellow.

If someone wanted to do an LED swap or something this dual-voltage to the bulbs can be a hurdle.  Not sure what I'll do yet, but I still have normal function halogen high beams for now.

As far as I can tell DRLs are not legally required anywhere in the USA, so the police cannot actually enforce them unless there are local requirements to do so.  I don't know how they would, either, since older cars would have to be grandfathered in.  And since the adoption years vary so much in the US, it's almost impossible to know what models/years came with them.

DRLs started in Sweden in the late 70s, Volvo and Saab were the first brands to use them.  Sweden is so far north, a lot of driving happens at dusk, when visibility is the worst.  DRLs are absolutely helpful there.  But in the US in broad daylight, I find DRLs actually make it harder for me to see cars clearly as the bright LEDs they use nowadays really make it hard to for depth perception to track things.  Numerous reports discuss how DRL lead to false security (thinking actual headlights are on), and they actually lead to more crashes since without also turning on rear lights, certain driving conditions are more hazardous.  Like following a DRL-equipped car in the fog.  The DRL car thinks they can see ok because of the light, but the car behind them has a hard time seeing them without any rear lights on.

Just a personal choice for me.  I don't disagree with DRLs overall, but I think they need to be way less bright and flashy in order to be effective and not have the drawbacks.  If visibility is an issue, I'll turn on my driving lights so others can see me.

Okay, that makes even more sense now. As far as I am aware DRL or headlighting being turned on ‘full’ is mandatory across Canada. Has been since I was a kid… maybe we fall into that category of darker in general being further North, but that is a bit of an unfair generalization.

I agree that some of the high powered headlights today are a bit much and make it harder to see around a car than otherways.

To the best of my knowledge the application of this rule has broadly decreased collisions here in Canada, but that info is old, based on a bunch of reading I did when working on my motorcycle lighting. Which, it’s worth noting, even back in ‘78, Canadian models of my bike had the ‘headlights off’ position blanked out, they’re either on low or high… no choice to have no headlight, like the USDM model of the exact same bike…

The difference in laws and jurisdictions makes sense….

[Hitman47]

This was yesterday. But, oh well. Here's what I did:

1. Opened my aftermarket black headlights
2. Removed turn signal plastic shroud & reflector completely & for good
3. Painted inner housing gloss black
4. Glued in smoked reflectors
5. Wired & installed smoked switchback halo
6. Put front of car back together

On a black car, the chrome turn signals & orange reflectors were annoying me. So, here's the results:

Movie of them installed & functioning:
IMG_8936.mov

Edited August 14, 2023 by Hitman47

[Enlight]

Any clue where this bracket goes? It looks like a bracket that secures the uppipe/turbo to the block but I can't find it in Subaru's parts diagrams.

[solidxsnake]

Took it to the SCCA ProSolo in Brunswick, ME this weekend. Didn't do all that well, but damned if it wasn't a fun time!
 

As always, stupid old Subaru problems bit me on the way up... lost the clutch pedal during the drive up in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. Bled it on the side with help from the GF and managed to make it to the site (after also popping the IC/charge hose off and needing to limp the car due to a crappy hose clamp). Thankfully the car made it through its runs for my GF and myself with no issues. The new tires (265/35 kumho v730s on 18x10.5 ET15 RPF1s) feel awesome. Just need to figure out this clutch pedal issue.

[Enlight]

On 8/13/2023 at 12:28 AM, Gex said:

Need to do more for oil cooling though. Perrin oil cooler be damned.  I suspect I’m going to ditch this killer b header soon. It is massive and just bakes the oil pan and oil filter. Switch back to my AP header with much more clearance.

Re: the Killer B headers and oil pan, this post (link) may be of interest to you. From KillerBMotorsport:

Quote

The oil exchange rate in the pan is so fast that header heat really doesn't do anything. Really, nothing. Years ago we had a guy that ran a Full-Race header with our pan and it made [I]contact[/I] nearly the full length of the dished in section. I had never seen anything like it before, but it didn't seem to bother him. Between seasons we did end up making him a custom pan at our request, and he saw zero different in oil temps. Not that he was seeing high temps before, but his before/after temps were virtually the same. Taking IR reading on the pan you see small temps changes on the exterior surface, but it never equates to anything measurable on the oil temps. I believe this is because (despite the appearance of the application of severe heat) the actual exposure area is less than 1% of the surfaces the oil is exposed to.

I don't know head from tails, personally, so I have no horse in this race. The post does give me some comfort as my oil filter is touching the header with the help of a sandwich adapter.

[tehspud]

10 hours ago, solidxsnake said:

Took it to the SCCA ProSolo in Brunswick, ME this weekend. Didn't do all that well, but damned if it wasn't a fun time!

[/snip]

The new tires (265/35 kumho v730s on 18x10.5 ET15 RPF1s) feel awesome. Just need to figure out this clutch pedal issue.

I gotta see pictures of that wheel/tire fitment

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Long overdue but finally shaking off the cobwebs from winter storage and getting back into the tuning process from where we left off. Took it out for an extended cruise to burn up as much old gas as I could. Still very early but I can already tell this thing is going to be a shit ton of fun when done.

Have to say that after getting the front Koni's dialed in, the ride is surprisingly comfortable for a full poly bushings. Need to rig up a new adjuster for the rears and get those done, bit to firm at the moment.  

[xt2005bonbon]

Dude, she looks real good man.

[blide]

Finally had the opportunity to address the radio in my spec.b.  The previous owner installed an amp with the stock radio.  Good news is that he had already installed fairly nice new speakers in all of the doors.  Bad news is that he took the amp out before he sold it so the speakers were no longer connected.  So, I've been riding without tunes for 6 months.  

Ordered the JDM climate controls with the double DIN setup and a new hazard switch from avojdm.com.  Got the wiring harness from Dave at ae64.com (highly recommended BTW).  Picked up a Sony XAV-AX7000 head unit and got to installing.  Since the previous owner hacked into the factory wiring harness to install the amp, I had to start by splicing it back together.  Got the radio installed and fired it up only to find that the head unit was seeing a short at the speakers and would cut power to them.  Finally figured out that the new speakers had been installed into the hacked up OEM speaker mounts and the leads to the speakers were grounding against the metal in the door.  Fired up Fusion360 and the 3d printer to create some new proper mounts and we were in business.  

This is supposed to be the OEM Subaru parts but ultimately, I'm pretty disappointed in the fit of the climate controls.  The whole unit is offset about 1/8" to the right.  This leaves a gap and the shifter trim doesn't quite meet up right.  Guess I'll just need to get the JDM console pieces to fix it.  I'll also need to address the mismatched faces at some point as well.  But at least for now I have Android Auto and music.

[Infosecdad]

It doesn't fit perfectly because the center console is tilted slightly toward the driver.

For JDM parts, that's to the right, for the US, it's to the left.

There is a little wiggle room in the screws I think, but not much.

If I remember right, some people may have figured out how to center it with some trimming, but I just learned to live with it.

[pksystems]

Meh.... Tried to do a boost leak test with my homemade tester.  Pinched off all the lines running off the intake tube, and all the air is leaking out the oil cap.  Tried rotating the engine a couple degrees if a valve is open, but still leaking all the air out the cap.  I'm sure I need to pinch off another line on one of my catch cans or something.

I remember boost leak testing my DSM, and it was a piece of cake that would hold air for several minutes after I fixed a couple small leaks.

[SilentJ20]

On 8/12/2023 at 9:28 PM, Gex said:

Another track day for the Camel wagon. Love this car. Unreal on the slicks. Need to do more for oil cooling though. Perrin oil cooler be damned.  I suspect I’m going to ditch this killer b header soon. It is massive and just bakes the oil pan and oil filter. Switch back to my AP header with much more clearance. 

Chasing down a PDK GT4. Don’t mind that oil temp warning.

Was this at The Ridge in Shelton, WA?  Been there once.  Neat track.  I'm going to try to get out there more, so maybe I'll spot you.

Also, nice run!  I'm far from an expert, but that looks like a blast.

[SilentJ20]

Little thing for yesterday.  I got tired of how the fuse for the sub amp was just loose in the engine bay.  It wasn't going anywhere, but I wanted more 'fixity'.  I modeled and printed a simple little clip/bracket out of PETG (only had grey, oh well) and attached it to the fuse box cover with 3M mounting tape.  I can pop the fuse out quickly so it doesn't impede the cover removal.

Drove for an hour and a half in 100deg F weather yesterday and it held up fine.

 

Edited August 17, 2023 by SilentJ20

[xt2005bonbon]

How big is your amp?

[SilentJ20]

1 hour ago, xt2005bonbon said:

How big is your amp?

It's an oldschool 300W Alpine Mono sub amp.  Powers an (also oldschool) 12in Infinity.  More info and some pics are HERE.  It's simple, but very effective.  Don't need much power for IB.

The wire from the battery is 8awg and goes to a distribution block under the driver seat (removed nav DVD stuff).  I'm preparing to add a 4-channel under there also once I decide on what main speakers to upgrade to.  From the distribution block under the seat it's 10awg to the sub amp.