What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Notorious]

Installed the JDM coilovers today. Way too hot to work but I got it done. I only lowered it another half inch or so from the lowering spring height. Just a few hiccups during the install but not too bad. Accidentally stripped one of the dampening knobs but I believe they’re replaceable and more or less universal among all KYB manufactured coils.

 

The bad news is that my creaking steering noise persists. I thought it was strut related but it must be related to the control arm. Need a new set of cotter pins and will retighten the ball joint and tie rod. If that doesn’t help I’m at a loss.

 

Also test drove it on full stiffness on all 4 corners (because one corner is stuck on full stiffness indefinitely until I fix that knob) It rode fine, not too harsh but of course as expected it is way too bumpy on worse roads. But steering was incredibly responsive. Took a roundabout at about 35 no problem.

 

My confidence in driving will be much better once this noise is gone. Odd thing is, it happens when I brake and reaccelerate... IE stop and go traffic with no change in steering angle. I’m thinking it might be the front control arm bolt not being tight enough...

[Sparkey]

Are you referring to (F) in the attached picture? I didn't notice whether it was on or off today, I'm the fourth owner of this car. What purpose does this damper serve.

 

Correct. Supposedly it is a valve/bladder which slows the clutch release to reduce drivetrain shock. Many drivers take it out because it helps with a more direct feel with the clutch. Also it seems to fail and cause issues.

[Flinkly]

There is also a damper in the slave. I might look it up later and post a link to a walkthrough. There's also a drain plug you can buy to replace that damper you already found, but will need to look that up later too.

 

Just got up and need some coffee first. Priorities.

[solidxsnake]

Are you referring to (F) in the attached picture? I didn't notice whether it was on or off today, I'm the fourth owner of this car. What purpose does this damper serve.

 

Correct. Supposedly it is a valve/bladder which slows the clutch release to reduce drivetrain shock. Many drivers take it out because it helps with a more direct feel with the clutch. Also it seems to fail and cause issues.

 

There is also a damper in the slave. I might look it up later and post a link to a walkthrough. There's also a drain plug you can buy to replace that damper you already found, but will need to look that up later too.

 

Just got up and need some coffee first. Priorities.

 

 

 

 

Here's my walkthrough, though this is for the spec.B 6MT. I think the slave is a bit different on the 5MT, but for the most part the process should be the same. Coming from an '02 Corolla that I was very comfortable driving, I found the clutch on the LGT very hard to drive consistently. Sometimes I'd bring the clutch out quickly and nearly stall, sometimes I'd bring it out and it wouldn't bite at all. Deleting the damper totally got rid of this. The intention of including it is to avoid causing damage caused by dumping/side-stepping the clutch.

[Infosecdad]

There is also a damper in the slave. I might look it up later and post a link to a walkthrough. There's also a drain plug you can buy to replace that damper you already found, but will need to look that up later too.

 

Just got up and need some coffee first. Priorities.

 

For some of us with 5mt, there is no damper in the slave (like mine).

The damper in the master can be unscrewed and plugged with a drain plug from a later year outback (807016160). I just ordered one, and will do this once it comes in.

 

I'm going to do the covertrussian method, just a large wrench, catch the fluid, put the plug in, refill, bleed.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5568939&postcount=825

 

 

Also looking at putting an oil pressure sensor in the rear galley and tying it into one of the TGV sensors that I'm no longer using. Would really like to have oil pressure in BtSSM.

 

Edit:

Just ordered the galley plug, pressure snubber, and sensor.

Will update when I have it all and try it out.

Edited August 5, 2019 by Infosecdad

[SBT]

5.12" - 5.31"*, geez, can't even get some decent help around here!

 

 

In all honesty thank you for that response - I didn't even know what a clevis was. I looked it up in the manual and found the proper section on pedal adjustment. I'm gonna experiment with that a little bit keeping in mind what you said about zero tension.

 

 

I like the bleeder as I don't like having to bother people for an otherwise two man job. Some pointers if you do get it:

 

 

1. I like to prime the tube with fluid before hooking it up to the reservoir in order to introduce less air. However priming the tube can be a little tricky, the fluid will continue to fill the tube even after you stop pumping. I made a bit of a mess as a result.
   
2. You will need to use the second gasket included in the Asian/Ford kit. The one that comes installed on the cap won't hold pressure reliably.
   
3. The cap does not fit on the clutch reservoir, only the brake.
   

 

 

 

Are you referring to (F) in the attached picture? I didn't notice whether it was on or off today, I'm the fourth owner of this car. What purpose does this damper serve.

 

 

Back to what I did to by 4th Gen. today, I also sleeved my oil press./temp. sensor wires to make them more abrasion resistant and salvaged my oil press. sensor with new Deutsch connectors.

 

 

I also use the Motive bleeder, but made an adapter cap for my clutch. Any small threaded fitting with a hose fitting on the other end, screwed and glued into the top of a spare clutch cover works. It pressure-fills, the same way as the brake master cylinder. I had a spare oil pressure switch adapter that I had purchased to prefill the engine before reinstall. Worked perfectly.

 

Checked your stroke measurement because I was literally just reviewing that to get Subenwagen back together with the least amount of back-and-forth after the 6MT Spec B upgrade.

 

The measurements you mentioned above, are the same ones that I'm using since it's for both the NA 5MT and the Spec B 6MT.

 

If it were a standard FI 5MT, the measurement is 5.31 - 5.51 in, which is considerably different.

 

If you do any adjustments, make sure your clevis turns freely when the clutch is at full rest. Otherwise, your adjustment is off.

[MaasaiWarrior]

Installed the JDM coilovers today. Way too hot to work but I got it done. I only lowered it another half inch or so from the lowering spring height. Just a few hiccups during the install but not too bad. Accidentally stripped one of the dampening knobs but I believe they’re replaceable and more or less universal among all KYB manufactured coils.

 

The bad news is that my creaking steering noise persists. I thought it was strut related but it must be related to the control arm. Need a new set of cotter pins and will retighten the ball joint and tie rod. If that doesn’t help I’m at a loss.

 

Also test drove it on full stiffness on all 4 corners (because one corner is stuck on full stiffness indefinitely until I fix that knob) It rode fine, not too harsh but of course as expected it is way too bumpy on worse roads. But steering was incredibly responsive. Took a roundabout at about 35 no problem.

 

My confidence in driving will be much better once this noise is gone. Odd thing is, it happens when I brake and reaccelerate... IE stop and go traffic with no change in steering angle. I’m thinking it might be the front control arm bolt not being tight enough...

 

For the creaking noise, please check your ball joints!! Even the smallest bit of noise can be from a small tear in the boot and there's a bit of water in there now causing rust creak noises

[snow05gtRI]

Also, I had the headlights cleaned and looking close to new-ish again! Best 40 bux I ever spent!

 

Scotty

 

 

where did you go for this? or did you do it yourself?

[SBT]

The bad news is that my creaking steering noise persists. I thought it was strut related but it must be related to the control arm. Need a new set of cotter pins and will retighten the ball joint and tie rod. If that doesn’t help I’m at a loss.

 

My confidence in driving will be much better once this noise is gone. Odd thing is, it happens when I brake and reaccelerate... IE stop and go traffic with no change in steering angle. I’m thinking it might be the front control arm bolt not being tight enough...

 

 

Presume you've checked your front and rear lower control arm bushes to make sure that that's not the source of your creaking. Particularly at the rear bushes, as tears there, or compromised poly bushes, if you've upgraded can cause fore and aft as well as some lateral movement on straight-ahead stop/go driving. Sounds like something is loading/unloading and my bet would be on the LCA and/or the BJ points.

[SubOperator]

 

The bad news is that my creaking steering noise persists. I thought it was strut related but it must be related to the control arm. Need a new set of cotter pins and will retighten the ball joint and tie rod. If that doesn’t help I’m at a loss.

 

 

 

Could be the spring and spring seat contact point. Had similar noise, ended up spraying bit of dry lube there and that cured it.

[gkinslow]

Fought this sucker for a full day and a half.

 

Ended up removing my holy headers and using a mapp gas torch and fairly large pipe wrench.

 

Also learned that the Tokyo Roki oil filter barely fits with the HH. About 1mm of clearance cannot be healthy.

 

 

 

[awfulwaffle]

where did you go for this? or did you do it yourself?

 

I use this with great results. Takes about 10 minutes.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-PowerBall-4Lights-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00341MIAW

[SBT]

Fought this sucker for a full day and a half.

 

Ended up removing my holy headers and using a mapp gas torch and fairly large pipe wrench.

 

Also learned that the Tokyo Roki oil filter barely fits with the HH. About 1mm of clearance cannot be healthy.

 

 

 

Looks a bit carboned-up/oily or is that just release fluid?

 

 

Did you use a sensor socket on it, or just an open-ended wrench/ WV socket set?

 

BTW - the TR AA100 and the TR Mazda RX8 filters fit perfectly with the HH once I took off the DEFI Sandwich Adapter for the OP and the OT sensors. Otherwise, there were impingement issues.

 

Don't know whether your are wrapped, or Swaintech or other coating, but if the former, that's likely taking up some room. Plenty of clearance with the ST coating.

 

FWIW - I rehomed the OP sensor to the back left (from the front) oil galley, and the OTsensor to the 2nd KB Extended Oil Pan port. Had to buy an adapter for that.

 

Also, any issues with running the front O2 sensor wiring though stock engine mount points to the stock connection point by the ABS pump? Haven't got the engine back in yet, but it looks like the angle that the HH puts the O2 sensor, the wiring may come up a bit short, or not mount to the valve cover points on the way to the connection.

[gkinslow]

I soaked it in acetone/ATF mixture for a many hours, used 2 different O2 sockets, the box end of a 7/8 box wrench, a pair of vice grips and a hammer. None of this budged it whatsoever.

 

The O2 sockets were just opening up at the slot for the wire and were absolutely useless.

 

I had to chisel off the small heat shield in order to properly reach the flats with the box wrench. In the end, the mapp gas and a long 7/8 box wrench did the trick.

 

As for the plug for the O2 sensor, I seem to remember TiC having to procure a harness extension. (even though BMB said it fit but barely) I never had to mess with this O2 sensor before that rebuild so I cannot say for certain what I have now. I'll look again when I get home tonight.

 

What really chaps my hide is I didn't have a new set of exhaust gaskets and will likely have to pull my headers again to replace the gaskets I reused. :spin:

[Max Capacity]

FWIW, put a screw type hose clamp around the O2 socket to keep it from spreading. Figured that one decades ago.

 

Also put a small dab of anti-seize on the threads before you install the new one, don't over tighten.

[gkinslow]

The Denso unit came with a packet of copper anti-seize and also had what looked to be a small dab of aluminum/nickel anti-seize already applied to the threads.

 

I used just shy of an absurd amount of the copper stuff in hopes of avoiding this trouble next time.

[SBT]

I soaked it in acetone/ATF mixture for a many hours, used 2 different O2 sockets, the box end of a 7/8 box wrench, a pair of vice grips and a hammer. None of this budged it whatsoever.

 

The O2 sockets were just opening up at the slot for the wire and were absolutely useless.

 

I had to chisel off the small heat shield in order to properly reach the flats with the box wrench. In the end, the mapp gas and a long 7/8 box wrench did the trick.

 

As for the plug for the O2 sensor, I seem to remember TiC having to procure a harness extension. (even though BMB said it fit but barely) I never had to mess with this O2 sensor before that rebuild so I cannot say for certain what I have now. I'll look again when I get home tonight.

 

What really chaps my hide is I didn't have a new set of exhaust gaskets and will likely have to pull my headers again to replace the gaskets I reused. :spin:

 

 

Wow! That's a lot of work. Hopefully you had it in the air and didn't have to do that on your back on the ground.

 

I used a small amount of KOPR-KOTE SS-30 antiseize and thread lubricant on the threads before I installed the new sensor.

 

I'm going to look into the sensor extender. Just looking at the angle and the loss of physical length, even before getting it into the engine bay, it seems like the extender is the way to go unless there's "signal" issues with it.

 

And I understand there may be as at least one Master Tech mentioned that there's resistance calcs built into the ECUs tables. Haven't looked further into it, so post up if anyone has additional info on this.

[gkinslow]

No lift here. That's with the car on ramps and me on the asphalt.

 

Also anyone have the torque specs for the header fasteners handy? Going to re-torque today and check for exhaust leaks.

[Max Capacity]

I just tightened mine like I tighten most nuts or bolts. I think you'll know when its tight enough, your not new to this.

 

Always plan on the low side, even if you have to re-tighten later its still better then breaking something.

[rhino6303]

Deleted. Edited August 6, 2019 by rhino6303

[Scottydunno]

where did you go for this? or did you do it yourself?

A buddy of mine bought a kit from one of the tool guys. Not snap on.. but it's a 3M kit with like 2 different air powered sanders. Not for nothing, I consider myself a fat kid, and standing in this heat sanding and cleaning and sanding... I'm good....LOL

 

Scotty

[Notorious]

Presume you've checked your front and rear lower control arm bushes to make sure that that's not the source of your creaking. Particularly at the rear bushes, as tears there, or compromised poly bushes, if you've upgraded can cause fore and aft as well as some lateral movement on straight-ahead stop/go driving. Sounds like something is loading/unloading and my bet would be on the LCA and/or the BJ points.

 

The bolts on the front and rear of the LCA had half a turn left in them and it solved the issue for now! I torqued them down to spec last I remember but I guess not enough. No noises now for the first time in about a year

 

My goal of one or two track days this year is getting closer. I just have to install the Moroso steel oil pan and pickup and replace my cam seals at the shop under timing belt warranty. Also not so patiently waiting for the arrival of the STI genome exhaust and rear sedan tail light garnish.

[rvnmaniac]

Replaced the rear brake pads. As rusty as the calipers looked was sure i would have a hard time with the caliper bolts but they came off easy. Used the Wearever silver pads.. the job was simple.

[snow05gtRI]

A buddy of mine bought a kit from one of the tool guys. Not snap on.. but it's a 3M kit with like 2 different air powered sanders. Not for nothing, I consider myself a fat kid, and standing in this heat sanding and cleaning and sanding... I'm good....LOL

 

Scotty

 

... I know the feeling. Been brutal up here lately. This week got better.

 

There's an easy brake upgrade for the B8 Audi series (A4/S4/allroad, maybe even A5/S5) where you can replace the front single pot (at least on my allroad) with a 4 pot from the Q5 3.0T. It has the same knuckle, I guess, and you just have to upsize the rotor. It's also the same part as the Porsche Macan and I ended up buying the Macan versions for less than half the price of the Q5 versions (who'd of thought?). We've been disassembling them so I can get them powder coated (they say PORSCHE on them ) and, damn, even brand new the pistons are a tight pull and took us some serious finagling to get out. Then we had to disassemble some S4 rear calipers I got cheap which were not nearly as painful because everything is screwed together. Going in for PC this week and then have to reassemble...

Edited August 6, 2019 by snow05gtRI

[awfulwaffle]

... I know the feeling. Been brutal up here lately. This week got better.

 

 

 

 

There's an easy brake upgrade for the B8 Audi series (A4/S4/allroad, maybe even A5/S5) where you can replace the front single pot (at least on my allroad) with a 4 pot from the Q5 3.0T. It has the same knuckle, I guess, and you just have to upsize the rotor. It's also the same part as the Porsche Macan and I ended up buying the Macan versions for less than half the price of the Q5 versions (who'd of thought?). We've been disassembling them so I can get them powder coated (they say PORSCHE on them ) and, damn, even brand new the pistons are a tight pull and took us some serious finagling to get out. Then we had to disassemble some S4 rear calipers I got cheap which were not nearly as painful because everything is screwed together. Going in for PC this week and then have to reassemble...

 

Been going back and forth about powdercoating the big brakes instead of painting before they go on the wagon. Found a post on another forum where someone claimed Brembo told them that the baking process ruins the heat treatment and drops the caliper stiffness. Sounds a bit fishy to me given that rotors can get rather toasty, but it gave me pause. Time to look up some aluminum HT specs at work maybe.