What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[DadBod]

What kind of power you putting through it?

 

 

 

Honestly not sure. Most of the mods were done by the previous owner. It has an AP pro-tune from IAG. P/O claimed something like 290/320, but I have a hard time believing it’s that high.

 

Would really like to get these trans issues resolved and get it pro-tuned again.

 

Power mods I know it has:

Blouch 380xt

Invidia catted downpipe

Invidia uppipe

Unknown brand 3” mid to stock mufflers

ID 1050x’s

IAG billet topfeed conversion rails

IAG fuel lines and FPR

IAG TGV deletes

AEM 320 pump

Grimmspeed topmount

Cobb intake w/airbox

Perrin turbo inlet

Grimmspeed ECBS

 

I don’t know what was on the car when it was last tuned though...

[Sparkey]

You know, I've read something like that before, and it made me not want to use it on either ends of my spark plug wires. I don't know much about dielectric grease though, thoughts on using it on plugs/wires?

 

*I'm bored, so I went to google as well. This makes sense, just the ceramic part of the plug, or the part of the boot that touches the ceramic, not on the metal to metal points.

 

Correct. I also like to use it on the seal part of connectors to keep it from drying out and make it easier to plug in and out.

 

I learned this the hard way when I smothered my battery terminals in it and my truck wouldnt start

 

EDIT: Dielectric is not as much of an insulator as thought. https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm The reason my truck would not start was I smothered the whole terminal and not the outside and it was a very high demand. Smaller connectors its fine and would be good to use.

Edited July 31, 2019 by Sparkey

[utc_pyro]

Depends on the use. For something like a battery connection, no you don't want to use a dielectric grease. The battery post and terminal are typically lead (or a minimal post is), and they actually deform into each other to increase the contact area. This is important as the current draw is 100's of amps during starting, and you need more contact area. In this case, dielectric grease will prevent the terminal and post from fully making contact increasing resistance to the point that it's an issue.

 

For mechanical connections that are low current (think sub 10A) and particularly multi conductor, the contact area is quite small. Just a single minute line or even a single point. Here the nonconductive nature of dielectric grease is your friend! The connectors will mechanically displace the grease at that point of contact so it wont be any worse than it would be otherwise, but any grease that gets between the connectors won't cause leakage currents. Which would be SUPER bad for a maf where 0.01V matters.

 

The reason you use grease is to seal out moisture and air. The connectors are plated with an anti corrosion coating from the factory, so they don't need to do it. The problem is when a connector is connected/disconnected multiple times that coating is worn away. Then you have to mechanically remove the corrosion, which further removes what's left of the coating. The grease is used to prevent moisture and excess air from reaching the now bare metal and corroding it.

[SubOperator]

I learned this the hard way when I smothered my battery terminals in it and my truck wouldnt start

 

Best thing I found for cleaning battery terminals and battery cable connectors is cleaner that's used for PVC plumber tubes, the purple colored one.

 

Is there a properly conductive grease than that can be used on connectors? I thought the idea is to keep them clean and dry.

[Sparkey]

Best thing I found for cleaning battery terminals and battery cable connectors is cleaner that's used for PVC plumber tubes, the purple colored one.

 

Is there a properly conductive grease than that can be used on connectors? I thought the idea is to keep them clean and dry.

 

Wait - are you saying you use Purple PVC Primer to clean battery terminals? Thats a new one - I just use baking soda.

 

After futher re-reading of articles - do NOT use conductive grease. You're best off using dielectric.

 

Depends on the use. For something like a battery connection, no you don't want to use a dielectric grease. The battery post and terminal are typically lead (or a minimal post is), and they actually deform into each other to increase the contact area. This is important as the current draw is 100's of amps during starting, and you need more contact area. In this case, dielectric grease will prevent the terminal and post from fully making contact increasing resistance to the point that it's an issue.

 

For mechanical connections that are low current (think sub 10A) and particularly multi conductor, the contact area is quite small. Just a single minute line or even a single point. Here the nonconductive nature of dielectric grease is your friend! The connectors will mechanically displace the grease at that point of contact so it wont be any worse than it would be otherwise, but any grease that gets between the connectors won't cause leakage currents. Which would be SUPER bad for a maf where 0.01V matters.

 

The reason you use grease is to seal out moisture and air. The connectors are plated with an anti corrosion coating from the factory, so they don't need to do it. The problem is when a connector is connected/disconnected multiple times that coating is worn away. Then you have to mechanically remove the corrosion, which further removes what's left of the coating. The grease is used to prevent moisture and excess air from reaching the now bare metal and corroding it.

 

I stand corrected. My suggestion of conductive grease is a terrible idea because unless it is applied precisely then it increases the tendency to short because it conducts. Dielectric grease also does not insulate as much as I thought and conductive grease can be problematic...

 

https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

Edited July 31, 2019 by Sparkey

[amm203]

Honestly not sure. Most of the mods were done by the previous owner. It has an AP pro-tune from IAG. P/O claimed something like 290/320, but I have a hard time believing it’s that high.

 

Would really like to get these trans issues resolved and get it pro-tuned again.

 

Power mods I know it has:

Blouch 380xt

Invidia catted downpipe

Invidia uppipe

Unknown brand 3” mid to stock mufflers

ID 1050x’s

IAG billet topfeed conversion rails

IAG fuel lines and FPR

IAG TGV deletes

AEM 320 pump

Grimmspeed topmount

Cobb intake w/airbox

Perrin turbo inlet

Grimmspeed ECBS

 

I don’t know what was on the car when it was last tuned though...

 

I could believe those numbers depending on the dyno. My mod list is very similar to yours except VF48 from a 2018 STI. I got 260/300 on a Mustang with a somewhat conservative tune to keep the tranny safe. Bought a spare IPT 5EAT for something like what you're going through. Once I swap I'll have an extra VB but not sure when that will be.

[solidxsnake]

BTW, change out all your coolant and vacuum lines, including the hard mount pieces and the gaskets on your coolant cross over pipe, and your oil cooler...would also replace the oil cooler if it's high mileage and unknown provenance.

 

Do the rear vapor barrier as well since the engine is out. Might as well do the pilot bearing in the flywheel too. Definitely replace the heater and radiator hoses, inclung everything to/from the turbo coolant tank.

 

Inspect your AC and your PS lines while it's apart and replace as necessary.

 

 

I assume all of these parts are "go to the dealer" sort of parts, yeah? I'd love to replace all of these hoses/gaskets before I put the motor back in, but with the process of having to look up every individual part number, ensure fitment, and then figure out where the cheapest dealer is after shipping (or pick-up, if it's local), I just haven't been motivated enough. I haven't seen a need to replace the heater hoses or the coolant hoses on the back side of the motor, to the turbo and turbo reservoir, etc., but a lot of the vacuum lines could use replacing. There aren't any "kits" that include all the hoses, are there?

 

 

I kind of hate being that guy, but Dielectric grease is no bueno for that purpose. Dielectric literally means non-conductive. I'd hit them with some QD Cleaner and use "Terminal grease" or "Ox guard" with much better conductive properties.

 

For mechanical connections that are low current (think sub 10A) and particularly multi conductor, the contact area is quite small. Just a single minute line or even a single point. Here the nonconductive nature of dielectric grease is your friend! The connectors will mechanically displace the grease at that point of contact so it wont be any worse than it would be otherwise, but any grease that gets between the connectors won't cause leakage currents. Which would be SUPER bad for a maf where 0.01V matters.

 

The reason you use grease is to seal out moisture and air. The connectors are plated with an anti corrosion coating from the factory, so they don't need to do it. The problem is when a connector is connected/disconnected multiple times that coating is worn away. Then you have to mechanically remove the corrosion, which further removes what's left of the coating. The grease is used to prevent moisture and excess air from reaching the now bare metal and corroding it.

 

Wait - are you saying you use Purple PVC Primer to clean battery terminals? Thats a new one - I just use baking soda.

 

After futher re-reading of articles - do NOT use conductive grease. You're best off using dielectric.

 

Yeah, what utc_pyro said. For any of the low-current applications you see, dielectric grease won't hurt anything. It's viscous enough that it won't physically block electrical connectivity between the contacts, and the sealing properties are very helpful.

 

That said, I have no qualms using dielectric grease on battery terminals, just apply it after they are connected. So, clean the posts and the connectors on the battery with steel wool/emery cloth/whatever other mild abrasive, then connect them, tighten them down, then coat the terminal/connector assembly. That will help to keep the terminals from corroding.

[SubOperator]

Wait - are you saying you use Purple PVC Primer to clean battery terminals? Thats a new one - I just use baking soda.

 

Yes exactly. After I connect and tighten the terminals I put some silicon grease over to protect it from dust/moisture.

[boxkita]

Had a Hicksta moment yesterday. Reassembled the front clip after replacing the ac condenser and ran out of popits (i might have been frustrated removing them). So I didn't put all the front ones back on. About halfway home, I started hearing scraping noises, then the smell of melting plastic. Rush hour traffic and no margins.... just keep going. I need a new right front wheel liner. The missing front popit? It's required, not optional.

 

Going to ziptie it in place until can remove and replace.

[gkinslow]

I hate those popits with a passion.

[Infosecdad]

I've had to buy them in gross from amazon... Not my favorite method of securing things.

[boxkita]

I've had to buy them in gross from amazon... Not my favorite method of securing things.

 

You can buy them at the dealer to get a starting point. $5 each. :-)

 

If you want to get rid of yours, I need a few dozen

[lilredwagon]

Yeah, buy those popits in cases of 100's from Ebay/Amazon. They are sold as universal fit, and some have dimensions listed, but if you buy the case of like, 500 you'll have the right size in there. I believe they're called plastic rivets, body rivets, or panel rivets... something like that. Edited July 31, 2019 by lil'redwagon

[Infosecdad]

You can buy them at the dealer to get a starting point. $5 each. :-)

 

If you want to get rid of yours, I need a few dozen

 

I would, but they are buried in a 20ft deep storage unit and I suspect you need them before I can buy a house

[SBT]

I assume all of these parts are "go to the dealer" sort of parts, yeah? I'd love to replace all of these hoses/gaskets before I put the motor back in, but with the process of having to look up every individual part number, ensure fitment, and then figure out where the cheapest dealer is after shipping (or pick-up, if it's local), I just haven't been motivated enough. I haven't seen a need to replace the heater hoses or the coolant hoses on the back side of the motor, to the turbo and turbo reservoir, etc., but a lot of the vacuum lines could use replacing. There aren't any "kits" that include all the hoses, are there?

 

 

If your car has seen winter salt/chemicals, I'd replace the heater hoses and the hard coolant pipes as well. I'd be confident that the vacuum and decktop coolant lines have seen enough heat cycles to be brittle, swollen, or cracked. And definitely do your CO coolant pipe gaskets. That thing is a royal PITA in-car...less so when on a stand.

 

And, I bought fuel-certified silicone line in 4, 6, 8, 8, and 12mm sizes IIRC, then cut to fit and used Oetiker clamps for all the vacuum lines. I did buy factory replacement fuel lines and install those while I had the IM off the car. Used Oetiker clamps on those too.

[BoozeRS05]

which shop?

 

TPG

 

The rate wasn't too bad actually all things considered, but the car is only worth $5500 or so.

 

I'm going to have them do the turbo/inlet and whatever hoses are necessary. None of the other items are as urgent, but figured it'd be nice to get it all done in one shot. Feel like pulling the motor cuts down on a lot of hours for all the jobs and these guys could have a motor out in 2hrs.

 

I can do the oil pan, motor mounts and valve cover, just didn't want to. Timing belt and clutch are fine I'm sure for another 20k miles.

Edited July 31, 2019 by BoozeRS05

[SubOperator]

Have to ask a question about Tribeca's ABS sensors here - this forum get 20x traffic and has 20x experience and expertise than Tribeca's forum. Plus setup is pretty much the same.

 

Few months ago had ABS CEL come up on wife's Tribeca (07 with 200K miles on it). IT came and went by itself so after reading some about the issue online I wrote it off to ABS sensors getting dirty from elements (12 years running). Had it at some point at the dealer for a recall and they diagnosed both rear sensors to be replaced but the adviser quietly told me that most likely they just need to be cleaned.

 

Car drives perfectly but I wanted to have it fixed cause driving without ABS and VDC on car this big is dangerous.

 

So this last weekend I proceed to put the car on stands and get at sensors. Rear are stuck to the knuckle so I move to fronts after spraying some PB blaster on rears.

 

What I found on fronts are worn ABS sensors, literally to the two conductors that lead to the sensor tip where the actual sensor is. I have never seen anything like that. Looks like the CV axle shield is too close to the knuckle and is rubbing on the sensor. This is the same on both sides. The worn part on the sensor is facing the CV axle, not the knuckle.

 

I took the CV axles out in 2016 when I pulled the engine for HG job. I torqued them back to spec when I put them back, and I do not understand how can the CV shields get that close to the knuckle to rub on the sensor. Can the shields move? Or can the CV axle be pulled that much deeper inside the knuckle if for example the axle nut was torqued beyond the spec? I looked at how much the axle sticks out from the nut and it looks normal.

 

Most importantly what is the fix now? I do not recall seeing any spacers or anything like that to go between wheel bearing and the axle.

 

Neither bearing is making any noise so I am scratching the back of my head right now thinking what;s my next move besides ordering some new ABS sensors.

 

Attaching some pics for reference. Will look at my Legacy's setup tonight but that still leaves me with the question on how to deal with Tribeca.

 

Here is right side sensor (left side is pretty much the same):

 

 

 

 

 

Sensor location on the left side (the other side is the same) - see how the CV axle shield is close to the knuckle?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's what the shields typically look like (rear LGT axle, but fronts looks the same iirc):

 

 

 

 

 

This is how sensor is mounted to the knuckle - this is not my car, something from the internets:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have such an update. Really fascinating. Stay tuned. Still laying under the car.

[Enlight]

Wrapped my uppipe and headers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[StkmltS]

Do you have any close up pics showing what you did at the ends of the wrap?

When I wrapped my header I couldn't find an aesthetically pleasing way to fold the end under, so I kind of just shoved it in there and clamped 'er down with the SS zip tie. I know it's under the car and nobody ever sees it, but... "if it can be perfect, it should be perfect"

 

It's been a few years and the cheap-o wrap is falling apart so I might redo it later this summer.

Edited July 31, 2019 by StkmltS

[Enlight]

Do you have any close up pics showing what you did at the ends of the wrap?

 

 

I could show you what I did but instead I'll share the video that helped me:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sT6JnrncUSI&t=80]"The Original" TITANIUM Exhaust Wrap Installation - YouTube[/ame]

Edited July 31, 2019 by Enlight

[Notorious]

It seems like I’m getting a clicking noise from the drivers side ball joint area. I replaced both ball joints already with the Whiteline kit. I wonder if the knuckle needs to be replaced? I’m at a loss as to what is causing the clicking. It’s not the sway bar, I drove around without one and the noise persists. CV axles were replaced as well. I get the noise when braking and accelerating at low speeds but primarily needs some steering input to cause the click.

 

It’s almost a creaking noise if that helps.

[Max Capacity]

I have such an update. Really fascinating. Stay tuned. Still laying under the car.

 

Obviously you missed my thread from a few years back.

 

[Sparkey]

It seems like I’m getting a clicking noise from the drivers side ball joint area. I replaced both ball joints already with the Whiteline kit. I wonder if the knuckle needs to be replaced? I’m at a loss as to what is causing the clicking. It’s not the sway bar, I drove around without one and the noise persists. CV axles were replaced as well. I get the noise when braking and accelerating at low speeds but primarily needs some steering input to cause the click.

 

It’s almost a creaking noise if that helps.

 

Make sure your ball joint isnt popping out of the knuckle. I had all sorts of popping, creaking, and strange noises after I had my transmission swap - they left a ball joint bolt loose and under the right conditions it would pull out

[SubOperator]

Obviously you missed my thread from a few years back.

 

[ATTACH]277970[/ATTACH]

 

 

oh no. Link?

[Notorious]

Make sure your ball joint isnt popping out of the knuckle. I had all sorts of popping, creaking, and strange noises after I had my transmission swap - they left a ball joint bolt loose and under the right conditions it would pull out

 

I’ll try to check but I assume it can’t pop out if that 14mm bolt is holding it in place right? I’m just tired of self diagnosing this issue. I might just take it to the shop and pay the man and forget it. I used to like to take turns at a good amount of speed given my suspension setup but the creaking noise scares me when I’m driving in any direction other than straight.