rebourne Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Found your video. I remember it! But it doesn't show to what lengths you went to fitting the N7. what's the best N7 for this ? I did a wee bit of searching... "2013" "2nd gen" Is 16GB or 32GB the smarter move? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 32GB. 16GB will leave you banging your head against a wall wishing you had just a little bit of extra. Plus, Androids seem to suck at working if they are at all close to their storage limit. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 If I dig my photo archives, I may be able to find pics of when I was customizing the bezel. I won't lie; it took a lot of work. But I was taking my time and I wanted a perfect fit. But yeah, you do need to 'slice' the vents a bit so you can fit the tablet. I then used some jbweld to glue it in place . I actually have a 16GB device. It is working just fine since I do not have many apps installed. Just the essentials. But as Rhitter said, it is true that Android won't play nice if you fill up the tablet. And yeah, make sure you get the 2nd gen (2013), not the first gen. Finally, I did relocate the mpg/clock to the ashtray location. I should make a quick video to show the current setup. I have another bezel+tablet+all accessories waiting to be installed in the 06. I've been procrastinating for more than a year!! I can't believe it. Just getting lazy I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Shawky Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Nexus 7 (combined with back up camera, oem steering wheel button controls, USB DAC, 128 GB USB stick, BtSsm via VAG COM cable, soundstream preamp, phoenix gold Ti2 1600.5 amp, custom made subwoofer cabinet made by bonbon) FTW :cool:Can u help how to make this one please Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I had a potential disaster last weekend changing my brake pads and rotors. The day before that I had my XT up on four jackstands and installed a new driveshaft. I'm at a new house and parked the XT in the new to me driveway. The asphalt is pretty soft and I noticed one of the jackstands sank into it a bit. I jumped up and down on the back bumper and everything seemed solid so I got under the car and did the job no problem. The next day I decided to do the pads and rotors and put the car on stands again, but in a different part of the driveway. I had all but one tire off (front passenger) as I changed the front rotors and pads and bled all the brakes. As I was bleeding the rear calipers I noticed one of the jack stands sunk way in the asphalt and was tipping so I hurried up and slid one of the wheels under the car in front of the rear wheel well. I ran to the front of the car and put another wheel on finger tight. Next I grabbed the jack and was rolling it around the car so I could jack the car up and stabilize it. As I was doing that, the rear jack stands tipped over all the way and the car fell off the stands!!!!! Fortunately the wheel I slid under the car kept if off the ground and kept everything from getting destroyed. I was able to jack the car up and get it back on stands, this time with pieces of plywood under the jack stands so it didn't sink in. After that I wasn't in the mood to do the rear pads, lol. I'll do them this weekend though. Thank god I wasn't under the car or sitting under one of the wheel wells when it fell off. I always try and be safe when jacking up a car but this shows that even with being careful a disaster can happen. When I removed the front driver's side caliper the bolts were super rusted on and the bottom bolt stripped when I removed it. So yesterday I replaced the caliper bracket and bolts and everything is all good again. It was making a horrible clunking noise when I went over bumps since the caliper wasn't completely tight because of the stripped bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 ^Dude. That's scary!! I also take the habit to put a couple of tires underneath the car juuuust in case. Glad you are fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Can u help how to make this one please Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk what exactly do you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Yeah man, good move on putting the wheels under. I try to do that every time I crawl under. But WTF is up with that asphalt? That's no bueno!!! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Finally, I did relocate the mpg/clock to the ashtray location. The only thing that mpg/clock/temp thing is good for is a very rough outside temperature approximation... Does it need to stay plugged in? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 The only thing that mpg/clock/temp thing is good for is a very rough outside temperature approximation... Does it need to stay plugged in?i'm pretty sure it's just a display, so should do no harm to have it unplugged. and i've been testing that theory for years. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 The only thing that mpg/clock/temp thing is good for is a very rough outside temperature approximation... Does it need to stay plugged in? at the beginning I did not have the relocation kit. So I just left it plugged in and hidden behind the tablet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) Spent the morning hucking parts into another dealer order. A hodgepodge of bits, TB coolant hoses, ect ect... 806908080 - Dipstick Oring 11126AA000 - Drain plug crush rings 16272AA001 - TGV to block gasket 21204AA900 - TB coolant hose - Going back to stock here. Because balance. 21204AA830 - TB coolant hose - This one in the Free Range Hose kit is usable IF you stretch it. Going back to stock here. Peace of Mind. 22680AA31A - New MAF 217K I'm gonna just call it here. Keep the old as a clean spare in the car. 904510056 - Tapping screw for the MAF install. - Lost one a while back - Shef stock replacement is no match. Balance call. 14459AA340 - Intake Duct Assembly - Shelf Stock. 22690AA69A - Rear O2 for the new DP install, soon. 20206AJ000 - Ball Joints. 901000060 - Flange Bolt - I know my ball joint bolts are bent. 784920080 - License Plate Lamp Dilemma is this. Bushings. I'm in need of a refresh. Suspension in total has 217K on it. Parts replaced or added are as follows. Rear LCA from a WRX or STI PN from what I remember. 2004 rear GR2 and regular spec GR2 up front. All at 100K Last Year Whiteline antisway F+R Avo rear anti sway stiffeners Moog endlinks F+R Have some movtech arms. Ball Joints ordered are for these units. Heard others have upgraded the rest of the parts whiteline... But what about other option? Question is what Group N PN or STI PN will fit in them for the front LCA? Favorite F+R Strutmounts (tophats)? Rear Bushings to flip? I'll see if I can find the number on my current LCA. Have a picture of it new in the archives.Was a huge improvement when updated. Currently on the list is: 20204AG04B and 2924AG011 for the front lower control arm. Should start compiling the rest soon. Free time is procrastination. Edited March 5, 2019 by kzr750r1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Anyone use the whiteline endlinks? I'm just looking around at what's available, and you can get front and rear whiteline sways in a package that includes endlinks for about the same price if you buy the front and rear sways separately. I know that sometimes the whiteline ball joints are problematic. I've used a whiteline rear sway on my old 95 legacy and it was pretty sweet so I know their sways are good, but I just don't know about the endlinks. Found a VF52 for only $350 w/40k locally, but I waited too long and it sold haha. I was waiting for the ad to be up for a while so I could talk him down more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) Question is... Favorite F+R Strutmounts (tophats)? Rear Bushings to flip? As far as front strutmounts are concerned: 2 different KYB p/n were clunking like crazy right out of the box. The rear shockmounts worked perfectly fine but after 3 clunky repeated installs in ~60 miles I had to go OEM for the front strutmounts. Maybe it's different for the '05 but the KYBs almost drove me nuts. Brian @ Heuberger could probably get the OEMs to you for a fair price. And as for bushings: Years ago I used Prothane on my old foxbody mustang with excellent results but I really love the whiteline bushes I installed up front. They are absolutely wonderful and even after 2 weeks I can still feel the difference. Edited March 5, 2019 by Outback2.5XT-05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Ok, thanks for the heads up on the top mounts. Front is where I'm hearing noises. These Tophats have 217K on them. Still inclined to use the WRX parts on the LCA. Will likely just throw the new ball joints on the movtech and run it for a little while without a bushing upgrade. This will give me time to evaluate these myself and refresh the old units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Ok added the top mounts and removed the WRX bushings. Dropped the shelf stock. 20320AG00A - Strut mount front. Have some whiteline endlinks if the Moogs are found used up during install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Ok added the top mounts and removed the WRX bushings. Dropped the shelf stock. 20320AG00A - Strut mount front. Have some whiteline endlinks if the Moogs are found used up during install. Keep me posted about the whiteline endlinks! I'm thinking about getting some eventually. I'm still deciding whether to go with a new shortblock or toss in an IAG. I don't think I'll go bigger than an 18g, so I probably could get away with a stock SB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 For sure. Still in the package. May go at it next weekend. Pending weather. All depends on your goals on the SB. Your probably best served going with Outfront or IAG grocery getter or stage 1 forged setup. Stock is well stock. No forged pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 I think you can get about 350 hp out of the stock SB before you should worry too much about the internals. I was talking to Turn In Concepts recently and that's what they think. But realistically, I wouldn't want to push more than 300 out of the stock SB. But the IAG stage 1 is only about $1k more than the OEM, so not terribly more expensive. I was thinking about just rebuilding the stock SB in the car with forged pistons. I built my 22T/205 hybrid in my basement and it was pretty easy to do, although a bit stressful wondering if I did it right. Before I make any final decisions I will do a leak down and compression test on my existing block. If it checks out I might just run it until it blows up. I have a lot of time to decide since I am not planning on pulling the engine until May at the earliest. Gotta finish this MS CS first, lol. And I haven't even installed my KYBs and Ralliteks yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 It is hard to stay on a target goal. My big limitation is a 5EAT that is old and will need to be rebuilt at some point. Sad to Dave has seems to have pulled the plug on HexMod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 (edited) I think you can get about 350 hp out of the stock SB before you should worry too much about the internals. I was talking to Turn In Concepts recently and that's what they think. But realistically, I wouldn't want to push more than 300 out of the stock SB. But the IAG stage 1 is only about $1k more than the OEM, so not terribly more expensive. They say that. Yet, I still broke my stock pistons at Stage 2 (i.e. just a downpipe) from a reputable tuner. The forum knowledge (from Max Capacity mostly) is that OEM is fine and it has been from him. The builder's knowledge (M Sprank / Infamous Performance) was, the pistons are a known weak link. Why not correct them if they break? I decided to go with the builders knowledge. So far it only cost me about a quart of oil every 2k miles due to looser forged piston tolerances. It is hard to stay on a target goal. My big limitation is a 5EAT that is old and will need to be rebuilt at some point. Sad to Dave has seems to have pulled the plug on HexMod. Here you go: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-09-subaru-legacy-5eat-built-transmission-hexmods-277920.html Edited March 7, 2019 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Here you go: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-09-subaru-legacy-5eat-built-transmission-hexmods-277920.html your link sends me to an old thread started by tide in 2004... (using tapatalk on my phone) * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Strange mine sends me to a post started in 2019 to sell a 05 through 06 trans that was built by Hexmods for 2k (2.5k shipped) My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Yes. I seen it... Not sure I believe. The statement all the gears were changed to much faster ratio ones and 12 posts make me leary. May try and contact him tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 You might be able to contact Hexmods to and validate the build. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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