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What did you do to your Outback today? V3


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I have been sitting on a pair of those arms for a while. What Whiteline bushings are you talking about? I've heard the Mevotek ball joints are junk.

 

I had the mevotek bushings pressed out and replaced with WLKCA334 and WLW0506. The mevo bushes look good but I had read about them failing quickly.

 

^ I've been sitting on those arms as well - haven't installed them because I also heard the ball joints are junk. They're just sitting in the boxes!

 

They are actually really nice arms once you add good parts to them... Moog balljoints were pretty cheap from rockauto but i also needed the "transverse boss" 20216FA000 to make it all work.

 

 

...And I have a huge pile of new parts to go on the XT when I get some time. Rallitek 1.4" rear springs w/spacers, Rallitek 1" front springs, KYB GR2s, KYB strut mounts...

 

 

I had really bad luck with 2 sets of KYB strut mounts on my GR2s, one listed for 05 recommended by rallitek and another listed for 07 by NAPA (matched to my VIN), both would clunk badly after being installed correctly. I ended up going with dealer parts for $$$ but they worked perfectly upon installation. Just my $.02

Edited by Outback2.5XT-05
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Have you considered going with a one piece replacement instead of OEM?

 

I’m not sure what transmission you have but this is the price range. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/2005-subaru-legacy-2-5-gt-1-piece-aluminum-driveshaft-5-speed-automatic-only

 

They also have carbon fiber for about twice the price.

 

Yeah, I thought about it, but I want to get it fixed ASAP.

 

I had really bad luck with 2 sets of KYB strut mounts on my GR2s, one listed for 05 recommended by rallitek and another listed for 07 by NAPA (matched to my VIN), both would clunk badly after being installed correctly. I ended up going with dealer parts for $$$ but they worked perfectly upon installation. Just my $.02

 

Hmm, I'll have to look into that. I've used KYBs on my rear struts on my Bugeye with no problems. Hopefully I don't run into any issues.

 

EDIT: Can anyone confirm if Group N strut mounts will fit on the XT?

 

Hmm, looks like they won't fit.

Edited by monkeyposeur
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stopped by the sheetmetal shop that makes the underbody plates for primitive. was there to talk through a prototype order for work and get some DFM. got a full shop tour. always interesting to see all the things the shops we send work to can do.

 

drove the outback. ;)

Edited by Flinkly
* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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FWIW, the KYB Rear shock mounts worked fine with the GR2s, it was the front strut mounts that gave me too much trouble.

 

Cool, I'll stick with the KYB rears and spring for the OEM fronts.

 

I didn't want to wait until next week for a driveshaft to arrive so I picked up one at the dealership. Installed it in about an hour. Wasn't too bad of a job. I didn't drop the exhaust so that made it annoying to get the old driveshaft out, and made it a bitch to get the new one in. Scratched it up pretty good too, haha.

 

I thought it was the carrier bearing that was bad but the carrier bearing was still good. The rear u-joint was seized up.

 

Everything works great again, no vibrating under load.

 

Maybe I'll be able to bleed the brakes tomorrow., possibly install the new pads and rotors. Picked up a new Motive brake bleeder since my old one was lost in a garage fire at my buddy's house.

 

Two of my four subarus, lol:

mKh2R1Z.jpg

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Thanks! Yeah, I need to polish the headlights on both of the wagons.

 

The driveshaft was about $670. That was part of my wheel budget!!! :mad: I could have waited a week or so and saved some money ordering it online but I wanted it fixed since it's my daily right now.

 

But at least it's fixed now and I had money set aside for parts.

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Have you considered going with a one piece replacement instead of OEM?

 

I’m not sure what transmission you have but this is the price range. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/2005-subaru-legacy-2-5-gt-1-piece-aluminum-driveshaft-5-speed-automatic-only

 

They also have carbon fiber for about twice the price.

 

That looks pretty reasonable. Only good to 155mph though. When I pretend my Outback is a racecsr I go way faster than that (in my mind)

 

I wonder what it would take to convert the driveshaft to a 6spd one or if you have to order a whole new one.

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stopped by the sheetmetal shop that makes the underbody plates for primitive. was there to talk through a prototype order for work and get some DFM. got a full shop tour. always interesting to see all the things the shops we send work to can do.

 

drove the outback. ;)

 

 

What are you running the DFM in? Some type of gas turbine hydroplane?

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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DFM - design for manufacture. have some sheetmetal designs going into production over in china soon and was looking for feedback for cost or simplicity. it seemed fairly complicated and tight in one area but i guess not. all completly doable and no real way to simplify further.

 

what DFM were you referencing? a fuel?

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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...replaced the AVO swaybar brackets....Kind of surprised one broke, but I guess anything cam2 happen

 

What a weird place to break.

 

 

Not really, that's where the swaybar mount snapped on my stock sheetmetal, right below the subframe bolt.

attachment.php?attachmentid=273501&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1551085874

 

Look at how thin the steel on the AVO part is around that single-point mount.

eab6d2b4c3c8a8a272faeb28ebb7a326.jpg

 

 

That's another reason why I welded steel angle onto as much surface area as was available, and the more welded to the rear subframe, the better.

attachment.php?attachmentid=273500&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1551085768

 

 

IMO the idea of arresting the whole car's sway with a single bolt mounted to 1/16" steel isn't reasonable.

fixed.thumb.jpg.a88cbeb327a9b919852806e91f0ef54a.jpg

broke.thumb.jpg.3a0ee3a1edde5d442b1e9a621ae7f894.jpg

Edited by Outback2.5XT-05
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There is a noticeable difference in wall thickness. Regardless this must have been a flaw in the metal before it was made into a part. Was not all that happy with the build quality of mine. Yet they did go on. Wall thickness looked more like your new set. No failure so far.

 

Installing mine I had to use some large stainless washers to space them from the body correctly to align the to the existing brackets.

 

Also sounds like your pushing it pretty hard as well. Not a bad thing. Just a thing.

Edited by kzr750r1
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Need to dig in on this too. My pump may just be done for soon.... But first I have to get this damn Double Din install done so I can at least drive the car again. Almost there. Just need to put the rest of the column together. Just got too late to see any more last night. I do not want to break anything!.
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I mangled the power steering o-ring when I installed it. So there was zero seal. When I turned on the car and turned the wheel fluid literally poured out of the pump all over the place.

 

No local dealer had them in stock and I had to wait a few days and then completely bleed the PS steering.

 

I think the air bubbles introduced from the pump caused the reservoir to overflow and piss fluid everywhere.

 

Huge mess super time consuming for something that was supposed to be simple. I just did everything wrong that I could.

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