dionysus Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Smoked out these tail lights and added amber deletes to the front lights! Still no hiding those UGLY AS S New York plates... Worst things in the union! Had my blue ones transfered over -me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Becks1818 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Cars still down burning just a ton of oil. I'll get to that once it is consistently warm. In the meantime I did some other stuff. Xuji suede steering wheel wrap and Vvivid 3M carbon fiber vinyl. The vinyl wrap is a pain but makes it look just so much better. Turned out pretty well I think! Looks good !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbob72cb Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Still no hiding those UGLY AS S New York plates... Worst things in the union! Had my blue ones transfered over -me I agree. My blue ones were starting to peel...didn’t want old plates on a new ride! Years ago I registered my car in PA to save money...no front plate! I loved that! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearlessLegacyGT Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 http://i66.tinypic.com/rur62h.jpg Went with 15% like on most of vehicles, ordering new black housing headlights tonight. Just need rims and I’ll be ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I think the console is eating your shifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Cars still down burning just a ton of oil. I'll get to that once it is consistently warm. In the meantime I did some other stuff. Xuji suede steering wheel wrap and Vvivid 3M carbon fiber vinyl. The vinyl wrap is a pain but makes it look just so much better. Turned out pretty well I think! Nice! Now do the wood trim too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinesol Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Nice! Now do the wood trim too... That's next! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) I think the console is eating your shifter. ... It's funny how pictures make it look so bronze in color.. it's not really like that in person. Almost the same as the console trim. Edited February 22, 2018 by brandon.mol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 (edited) Not a 5th gen, but as 5th gen alumni, I feel entitled My new winter wheels: My new badges: My new air intake(s)... don't care about power, just wanted the lovely induction noises: And because the MAF is after the intercooler on these cars (thats it there on the thermally insulated and indestructible aluminum charge pipe on the left), you can change intakes, BPVs, etc all day long and not worry about MAF scaling issues Edited February 22, 2018 by brandon.mol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Lol nice engine cover, I assume that's OEM. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Heh... I know right... Just in case you didn't know it was turbocharged. Plus it adds 30 HP... ... ... I think they do that so that shop techs have no excuse for putting the wrong oil in them. Nobody can say "but I didn't know it was a turbo" ... With that said, its soon going to be a rarity to find a NA car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Did a couple of things. Failed inspection due to my revers lights not working all of the sudden. I know there were last week but during inspection they would just flash for a quick second and that was it. I have the quad reverse light mod with the Triton switchbacks. Figured maybe one of the led bulbs went bad. I ended up removing the LED reverse lights, disconnecting my switchbacks and putting the stock bulbs back in. They were behaving the same way but after leaving them on for about 15 seconds it like the car learned and they went back on. Really weird. Do these cars have to learn the lighting type? Ran new RCA cable for the left speakers since the previous one went bad. Also received my first Blackstone Report on tranny fluid. Not sure if it's anything to worry about. I did notice a couple of very tiny pieces of metal on the magnetic bolt when I changed my tranny fluid but not anything that didn't' seem out of the norm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 (edited) Re: Reverse lights... you said you did a quad mod...do you have them in parallel or series on each side? Its very possible that the BIU is confused by the lack of resistance, i.e. a CANBUS burp. With LEDs, if you put 2 of them them in series, you will get a voltage drop of 1.4 volts with zero resistance and if one blows they both go out, and if you put them in parallel, only one will be on at a time (unless they have resistors) you will get a voltage drop of 0.7 volts with zero resistance and if one blows the other will still work. Very likely, the problem is insufficient resistance if you have them in parallel. Wire them in series and problem will probably be solved. This is why someone else found that swapping out one LED with a resistive bulb fixed it - becasue that increased the total resistance of the circuit enough that the BIU was fooled. Alternatively, add resistance with one of these: https://www.prolightz.com/morimoto-hd-load-resistor-dual.html These are the LED reverse lights I had, by the way and holy crapola are they bright: https://www.prolightz.com/pl1-t15-led-bulbs.html Edited February 22, 2018 by brandon.mol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I have the Triton wired piggy backing off the wires for the turn signal on each side. I'm guessing they are in series? I have had them for about 3 years now without issue. I'm going to get the inspection done and then revisit putting the LED's back. I had tried removing them all and trying them one by one hoping to find a blown one, but all had the same strobe result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Don’t know if you guys remember the hit and run my car went through over a year ago, but rear quarter panel started bubbling recently so brought it back to the body shop again to get fixed. I also asked them to repaint entire bumper as my kids scratched the shit out of the freshly painted new one I had put on from hit and run. They said they would for $400 so be it. I thought to myself while they have the paint mixed up I might as well remove hella horn face plates which are horribly faded to get them painted ruby red too lol!! I picked up car 3 days later and body guy brought me out to the car to show me the work and I was very pleased. I then said I’m ready to pay. He gave me the key and said it’s on us, have a great day!!! I was floored! I figured at least $450 with bumper and horn plates. I thanked him up and down and took off. Some pics... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Not me but a fellow JDM Legacy owner... Original post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5763202&postcount=72 (and no, I dont know what head-unit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) Alignment round 4. I adjusted the camber myself over the weekend, and set both fronts to max negative camber setting. Got it measured today, and I think it yielded some bad news. When I was adjusting the left side (originally at +0.4), the bolt felt floppy and only moved the hub when the cam was nearing max adjustment in either direction. The right side was smooth and I could follow the cam position with the hub movement. I think I may have a problem because the left side is at -0.5 and the right is at -1.7 (normal). Anyone ever heard of the hole in the knuckle getting egged out or something? I would guess I should get more than normal camber if that happened, but I don't have any other ideas. I should add that I'm chasing this alignment issue because my road noise is very bad (yeah its a subaru) but it sometimes has a cyclical sound. I'm wondering if all of these issues could be connected... Edited February 28, 2018 by coco26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 The bolt isn't really snug inside the knuckle or anything, and what you're describing sounds about like what I remember. Loosen the camber bolt, back off the other one so there's a little friction, and basically spin the camber bolt in a way that lets you move the hub where you want it, rather than using the camber bolt to move the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) Finally mounted my tires on my wheels, Niche Citrine 19x9.5 on 255/35/19s... yeah spring is on it's way.... Edited February 28, 2018 by SpidermanMTL MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Alignment round 4. I adjusted the camber myself over the weekend, and set both fronts to max negative camber setting. Got it measured today, and I think it yielded some bad news. When I was adjusting the left side (originally at +0.4), the bolt felt floppy and only moved the hub when the cam was nearing max adjustment in either direction. The right side was smooth and I could follow the cam position with the hub movement. I think I may have a problem because the left side is at -0.5 and the right is at -1.7 (normal). Anyone ever heard of the hole in the knuckle getting egged out or something? I would guess I should get more than normal camber if that happened, but I don't have any other ideas. I should add that I'm chasing this alignment issue because my road noise is very bad (yeah its a subaru) but it sometimes has a cyclical sound. I'm wondering if all of these issues could be connected... I wonder if your rear control arm bushing is torn which causing an issue with your alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 So yesterday afternoon I got a p0638 error code. Throttle body position sensor error. I after checking the gas pedal plug and clearing the code it changed to p210x can't remember what the last number was. After talking to my local shop and reading the logs (throttle position sensor was stuck at 18 for the whole log) I went ahead and pulled the inter-cooler and the throttle body connector hose. Inside stuck between the wall and the flapper was a piece of rubber that had torn off the throttle body connector hose seal. I pulled it out, the car back together, and started it. Right away I noticed the idle was more consistent and the rpms responded to the gas pedal. Cleared the codes and went for a test drive. Nothing else seemed out of place and no more codes showed up so I am fairly confident the hose seal was only one piece and nothing significant was sent through my engine and turbo. Anyone got a good recommendation for a Throttle Body Connector replacement? Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Perrin makes one for the 15+ WRX, it fits our cars My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Perrin makes one for the 15+ WRX, it fits our cars https://www.perrin.com/shop/intercoolers/silicone-coupler-kit MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellesedil Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Finally mounted my tires on my wheels, Niche Citrine 19x9.5 on 255/35/19s... yeah spring is on it's way.... I want to make it a rule. If you're running 9 inch wheels or wider, you should also be mentioning your offset and whether you're on struts or coils. Looks like +40 and coils, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 I want to make it a rule. If you're running 9 inch wheels or wider, you should also be mentioning your offset and whether you're on struts or coils. Looks like +40 and coils, right?People should be giving all the specs anytime they post or ask questions about any wheel and tire combo, but unfortunately most people are dipshits and only post half assed or useless info. I guess no one ever taught them to be clear when they speak. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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