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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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Bypassed the sensor or replacing it?
Looking into a service that will reset the error code. You can't buy a replacement. Subaru makes you buy the whole bottom seat cushion.

 

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Looking into a service that will reset the error code. You can't buy a replacement. Subaru makes you buy the whole bottom seat cushion.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

I might know where you can get a slightly used sensor out of a certain silver GT...

 

 

To soon?

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So I took the car out for a short run today. Everything was going fine. Then once it was up to temp I decided to give it a little boost. Right at peak boost it started stuttering like mad and the christmas tree showed up. Nursed it home(only about a mile). Checked for codes and it was misfire cyl 3. So I tore everything down, checked voltage, spark, and resistance on number three. When I checked the spark there was none, so I swapped 1 and 3 coils and put it all back together. Sure enough, now it is cyl 1 misfire. I guess it is time for new coils. I know Swannee had 100k on his and I have put at least another 15 on them. So I will be getting coils soon. Just never ends.
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Got my spacers installed today! Looks so much better. Gotta do brakes and clear my wheels soon! Probably going to paint the calipers as well. 75e3b52eade04c5f387d052a63c1a77a.jpg

 

You know, that actually looks pretty good with the factory wheels. They don't look sucked in. What spacers did you use? I've never used spacers before, but coming from the Jeep world, a lot there did (and do) to help with swapped in axle width differences.

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You know, that actually looks pretty good with the factory wheels. They don't look sucked in. What spacers did you use? I've never used spacers before, but coming from the Jeep world, a lot there did (and do) to help with swapped in axle width differences.
I've had hubsentric spacers on my car for about 3 years now. I forget what sizes they were but I know the fronts are a different size than the back .

 

I just took a tapemeasure to the lip of the rim, looked straight down the fender and based my spacer size off of that.

 

It completely changed the look of the car.

 

Now they will be retired as my winter set up since I've bought +35 offset rims.

8c1b29ae7a8e2f51f410d324d283469c.jpgc0cd27023f0486b78dc65e96c3996494.jpg81d8be4e61dee4538a53c4c75f84958e.jpg2e4e71c54e26ca516d98a0acd92e1648.jpg

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You know, that actually looks pretty good with the factory wheels. They don't look sucked in. What spacers did you use? I've never used spacers before, but coming from the Jeep world, a lot there did (and do) to help with swapped in axle width differences.
Perrin 25mm spacers.

 

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Hey Guys.

 

My e-tuner just sent me an email saying that my recent logs looked good and that if I'm satisfied we're all done. I have some concerns and I was hoping y'all would reassure me that I'm not crazy here... or if I am, let me know. Here's what's going on:

 

My idle is kind of rough and rather stinky. I have gotten comments from strangers and coworkers that my car is running rich.

The car does not take the clutch as well. I haven't stalled it yet, but there are a lot more close calls.

The car is laggy. Full boost is around 3k rpm, where it used to be ~2600.

The car feels kind of like it's bogging at full boost.

The car only hits full boost (18psi) for a brief window, ~700rpm.

The AFR at full boost is ~11, shouldn't it be ~12, or am I misinformed?

The WGDC is flat, no increase in lower rpms or higher. (that would explain my peaky boost?)

The transition from WOT to partial throttle, or vice versa is sharp and jerky.

 

Less important note: I thought with the FMIC I could run a little more boost. I know PSI isn't everything, but it's weird to me that I'm hitting lower with more intercooling.

 

So am I crazy here? Do I have incorrect expectations? What are your thoughts?

I'm not mentioning which e-tuner because I wouldn't want to drag anyone thru the mud if I'm just being a total N00b.

 

Thanks.

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My idle is kind of rough and rather stinky. I have gotten comments from strangers and coworkers that my car is running rich-

 

**What is your afr at idle ?

 

The car does not take the clutch as well. I haven't stalled it yet, but there are a lot more close calls.

 

**Ask him to adjust the throttle and make it more sensitive

 

The car is laggy. Full boost is around 3k rpm, where it used to be ~2600-

 

**What is the ambient temp? Could be the power limiting rule that adjusts the boost based on intake temp

 

The car feels kind of like it's bogging at full boost.

 

**Could be realted to your lean afr.

 

The car only hits full boost (18psi) for a brief window, ~700rpm.

 

**What rpm? Sounds normal due to our turbo design and size

 

The AFR at full boost is ~11, shouldn't it be ~12, or am I misinformed?

 

**12 is too lean. Mid 11's are safe

 

The WGDC is flat, no increase in lower rpms or higher. (that would explain my peaky boost?)

 

**Can't explain that.

 

The transition from WOT to partial throttle, or vice versa is sharp and jerky.

 

**Sounds like poor tuning and I'm assuming he didn't calibrate your MAF and TPS prior to tuning ?

 

Less important note: I thought with the FMIC I could run a little more boost. I know PSI isn't everything, but it's weird to me that I'm hitting lower with more intercooling.

 

** The front mount won't allow you to run more boost. It will lower intake temps which will allow for more consistent numbers and maybe a little more timing. Our turbos are pretty much maxed at 18psi anyways .

 

So am I crazy here? Do I have incorrect expectations? What are your thoughts?

Edited by Becks1818
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Sounds like your tune is a bit wonky. I would have him take a look at it again. Possibly do a log of you driving around normally for 10 or 15 minutes and have him look at that. If your tuner is only focusing on your pulls then perhaps he missed something. As far as your afr. Becks is correct 12 is way too lean. Mine is in the low 10's at full boost so 11 should be ok.
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Definitely communicate the issues to your tuner and be direct. I learned the hard way. Also a rich cold idle is normal but it should dissipate quickly once the cat warms up, unless you don't have a catted j pipe. Then you are probably normal.

 

At wot my afr pegs at 11.14 my understanding is that is the lowest the AP will read because of a software limit. It is also my understanding the fmic ups the boost peak a few hundred rpm. Having the fmic means you won't heat soak as quickly or at all, you are still limited to how much boost the tune/turbo provide safely and how much boost the tuner feels is safe for your engine.

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