Perscitus Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Definitely communicate the issues to your tuner and be direct. I learned the hard way. Also a rich cold idle is normal but it should dissipate quickly once the cat warms up, unless you don't have a catted j pipe. Then you are probably normal. At wot my afr pegs at 11.14 my understanding is that is the lowest the AP will read because of a software limit. It is also my understanding the fmic ups the boost peak a few hundred rpm. Having the fmic means you won't heat soak as quickly or at all, you are still limited to how much boost the tune/turbo provide safely and how much boost the tuner feels is safe for your engine.Spot on FLlegacy! The 11.14:1 or 11.x:1 is more of a AF/Lambda sensor calibration limit set in the stock and most tunes. It's what Subaru decided the Denso wideband AF sensor is 'good' to in terms of perceived accuracy and so they a. scaled it and b. pegged it to read no richer than 11.x:1. What this translates to is that your AP or any other monitor/logger will typically show the sensor readout down to 11.x:1 and get pegged. So you might be hitting that 11.x:1 if your AF Error is low or you might actually be running a point or two richer and you'd never know without an independent wideband. Some guys have had luck experimenting and getting the stock sensor to read 'accurately' down to about 10.4-10.5:1, rescaling and expanding the readable range to that ratio using a proper windeband for reference. By doing so your monitor/logger or AP will see AFRs down to 10.4:1 on stock hardware. But to what end and to what real benefit? Once you need something like this, you might as well just install a full-time independent wideband sensor or use one for tuning only and call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Thanks guys. With your information and a bunch of internet research I have learned a lot today. It looks like my AFRs are good. I'm going to email my tuner about the weird feel at boost, the laggy feel, and the rough transitions. I think I will also take a log of those things happening and ask him to take a look. I'll also ask about the steady WGDC because I am curious, and because I'm interested in a broader usable power band. I'll also ask what he thinks is my limiting factor right now. I bet it's my ACN91 and stock turbo, but I'm interested in his thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Becks1818 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Thanks guys. With your information and a bunch of internet research I have learned a lot today. It looks like my AFRs are good. I'm going to email my tuner about the weird feel at boost, the laggy feel, and the rough transitions. I think I will also take a log of those things happening and ask him to take a look. I'll also ask about the steady WGDC because I am curious, and because I'm interested in a broader usable power band. I'll also ask what he thinks is my limiting factor right now. I bet it's my ACN91 and stock turbo, but I'm interested in his thoughts.Have you read the power road blocks sticky ? Lots of great info in there . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Installed new (to me) tires and tpms sensors. Tires are Procontact Tx ssr 235/50R18 and the sensor are oem subaru off ebay. Both used items, but the tires are between 7-8/32 and the sensors are 4 years newer manufacturer date stamp. Ateq took care of the tpms light. Speedometer is off a bit according to will they fit, but not enough to bother me. These should hold me over until I decide on wheels at some point. $300 for the tires, $50 for the sensors, and $60 for the mounting are tough to pass up when you're on a budget trying to get a house. http://i.imgur.com/0dmFYl6.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZVK7oep.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Becks1818 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Installed new (to me) tires and tpms sensors. Tires are Procontact Tx ssr 235/50R18 and the sensor are oem subaru off ebay. Both used items, but the tires are between 7-8/32 and the sensors are 4 years newer manufacturer date stamp. Ateq took care of the tpms light. Speedometer is off a bit according to will they fit, but not enough to bother me. These should hold me over until I decide on wheels at some point. $300 for the tires, $50 for the sensors, and $60 for the mounting are tough to pass up when you're on a budget trying to get a house. http://i.imgur.com/0dmFYl6.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZVK7oep.jpgThose looks so tall! Congrats on the purchase though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Yeah 15mm difference. Could be worse, but I gotta make due. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Considering some of the streets you are driving on that may not be such a bad thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 My 225/50 put my speedo spot on according to gps and those speed signs. You are probably closer to right on than being off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Considering some of the streets you are driving on that may not be such a bad thing My thoughts exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Have you read the power road blocks sticky ? Lots of great info in there . I have, thanks. Right now I'm very happy with my power level, the only thing I'm dreaming of improving is spool and response. To me that means either e85 or meth, neither of which is likely to happen this year, if at all. The only e85 station near me is by my work, and I would be kind of uneasy being so far from a station on days off. On the other hand, meth injection is more complicated and expensive and requires more monitoring and fail safes. This might be all I do for this car... of course I thought that back when I got the downpipe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 Received my ODS module back. Installed it and BAM! It worked!! ODS Module reset and dinging is gone. I will update my post as well, but if anyone needs to reset their ODS sensor, I used tarasanastudio's service on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/usr/tarasanastudio?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 Quick communication and quick turnaround. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 replaced rear pads and rotors. pads were completely used up. oil & filter changed as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 Feeling discouraged after failed coil/exhaust install. Turns out you can't do much with one socket set while working out of a storage unit. Also: socket sets don't have "rust" sized sockets. Taking it to AWDTuning next week to let them use the proper tools. They'll have two black GT's for a day if islandborn's is still there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Taking it to AWDTuning next week to let them use the proper tools. They'll have two black GT's for a day if islandborn's is still there... Its still there! Lets party! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I tried and failed again to find the plastic rattle in the driver's side of the dash. Thought it was one of the panel clips in the door around the speaker. I noticed the little rubber washer was missing on a few clips and the clips were loose. Went to the hardware store and got some new washers...still rattling. My wife says let it go, but I will not admit defeat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I spent some time on Saturday evening and Sunday morning dropping the manifold again just to fiddle with the nameless dp. I dented the area near the waste gate and positioned it so there's no more flapper interference. I've become very proficient in taking that thing off. Don't want to do it anymore though. Now I just have to reschedule a date for the tune. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I would love to work on my car but I have not seen it in a week.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) I tried and failed again to find the plastic rattle in the driver's side of the dash. Thought it was one of the panel clips in the door around the speaker. I noticed the little rubber washer was missing on a few clips and the clips were loose. Went to the hardware store and got some new washers...still rattling. My wife says let it go, but I will not admit defeat. This may be of help since we are related to the Outback. Post #105 on page 11 is a fix for one of the Outback sounds. Earlier posts have found a couple of other annoying sounds. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/138-gen-5-2015-present/381858-annoying-dash-noise-11.html Edited February 6, 2018 by DugsSin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Fan Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) I tried and failed again to find the plastic rattle in the driver's side of the dash. Thought it was one of the panel clips in the door around the speaker. I noticed the little rubber washer was missing on a few clips and the clips were loose. Went to the hardware store and got some new washers...still rattling. My wife says let it go, but I will not admit defeat. \ I'm with you....never admit that the damned car has beaten you. Let me share a little story about chasing an annoying sound........... Way back in the day I had a Triumph TR-3B...it had a clickity click sound in the motor area....which sounded more like a clackity clack sound if you were standing in front of the car. I adjusted the valves and a number of other small things to no avail.... then went "all in".... tore the engine apart, had all the push-rods balanced...had the crank and cam balanced, ported and polished the head (Since it was apart) replaced all the con rods and pistons (All balanced too)....Very cool and lots more power....BUT the clickity click was still there One day I drove into my local gas station and the young mechanic came out and asked me "Why don't you tighten your fan bolts?" The fan on those TR motors is held on by 4 small bolts...he pulled out a 1/2" wrench and leaned in to the engine bay, tweaked 2 of the bolts and said "Rev it up" No more ckickity click ever again......apparenly 2 of the bolts were about 1/2 a turn loose.....only cost a couple of thousand to build the motor and and nothing to fix the annoying noise.:lol: Edited February 6, 2018 by Scooby Fan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 This may be of help since we are related to the Outback. Post #105 on page 11 is a fix for the Outback noise. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/138-gen-5-2015-present/381858-annoying-dash-noise-11.html Thank you for that, I have the same rattle but only in colder weather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 ^^^ It's a long thread but they found other fixes for "somewhere in the dashboard area" noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) ^^^ It's a long thread but they found other fixes for "somewhere in the dashboard area" noises. I'll have to check it out. My rattle is somewhere by the parking brake switch. You can hear the sound in the video. Edited February 6, 2018 by Falcor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) I am getting ready to start ordering parts for my timing belt. Does the OEM Water Pump 21111AA380 come with a gasket? The parts description says water pump complete. I started pricing out OEM belt and tensioner vs the Continental Kit. I am usually an OEM part junkie, but its $200 cheap to buy the Continental kit with the belt and idlers. I leaning toward the continental. Edited February 7, 2018 by dgoodhue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 I am getting ready to start ordering parts for my timing belt. Does the OEM Water Pump 21111AA380 come with a gasket? The parts description says water pump complete. I started pricing out OEM belt and tensioner vs the Continental Kit. I am usually an OEM part junkie, but its $200 cheap to buy the Continental kit with the belt and idlers. I leaning toward the continental. When I bought the oem pump, it came with the gasket. Almost 99% sure. If it doesn't, I have a spare waterpump gasket you can have. Continental kit I used was all quality made in Japan stuff. NTN, Koyo, and Continental branded belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gforce13 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Finally prebuilt my front Konis after buying them a year ago. Let hope things go right tomorrow or Sunday and I can be riding on Konis come Monday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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