What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

[Jimothy_14]

good to hear. mine has a p0420 that i ended up solving with a new cat and turbo to cat gasket. hopefully yours is just a bad gasket cause catalytic converters, turbos, and exhaust manifolds are all insanely expensive

[motorbreath]

20 hours ago, Falcor said:

Dropped the GT off at the dealer to see if they can figure out what is causing the code. They almost would not look at it after I mentioned the Cobb tune.

Are you able to log your upstream and downstream O2 sensor readings? It would be interesting to see them transition from a cold start to highway cruising. I could compare them to mine with an aftermarket cat and relatively new O2 sensors.

[motorbreath]

6 hours ago, Jimothy_14 said:

good to hear. mine has a p0420 that i ended up solving with a new cat and turbo to cat gasket.

I assume you don't live in the rust belt, I had to scrap my turbo because it was rust-welded to the stock cat! It was probably for the best, the turbo had over 100k on it and 10 hard years of salty winters.

[Jimothy_14]

40 minutes ago, motorbreath said:

I assume you don't live in the rust belt, I had to scrap my turbo because it was rust-welded to the stock cat! It was probably for the best, the turbo had over 100k on it and 10 hard years of salty winters.

it spent some time in the Midwest, not sure how long. when i took it off i needed to take a Sawzall about a third of the way through the exhaust studs and saw off the cat for clearance to get the nuts off and replaced all four with new studs

[Falcor]

Heard back from the dealer. They recommend a new cat (kind of assumed that, but wanted confirmation). That along with OEM O2 sensors was over $4k (I installed new ones a month ago). Told them no. So, now I am left with a cat replacement.

The guy that did the clutch and timing belt did remove the cat to get to the water pump last July, and it has had only like 4k miles on it since (he used heat to remove). Is it worth trying to do myself? I found the one below and with current 20% off it's around $475. Anyone had experience with them? The Magnaflow cats are an option for just a bit more, but not sure if they are in stock.

https://www.hottexhaust.com/2010-2012-subaru-legacy-gt-front-catalytic-converter-bolt-on-premium-grade/?srsltid=AfmBOooSdSEar89Mi1eZ8I_YpxSSuXhATpJ0_1ZupeqYRTbTRCoorZflgfs

https://www.hottexhaust.com/magnaflow-21-276-subaru-legacy-2-5-turbo-front-direct-fit-oem-grade-catalytic-converter-federal-exc-ca/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4atnEpKtKvtifnMq9lOr3i-Xi-nl0-pQ3RbNJ86iwl9s8cfQ36DunMhoC9KEQAvD_BwE

 

 

 

[motorbreath]

22 hours ago, Falcor said:

 I found the one below and with current 20% off it's around $475. Anyone had experience with them? The Magnaflow cats are an option for just a bit more, but not sure if they are in stock.

https://www.hottexhaust.com/2010-2012-subaru-legacy-gt-front-catalytic-converter-bolt-on-premium-grade/?srsltid=AfmBOooSdSEar89Mi1eZ8I_YpxSSuXhATpJ0_1ZupeqYRTbTRCoorZflgfs

https://www.hottexhaust.com/magnaflow-21-276-subaru-legacy-2-5-turbo-front-direct-fit-oem-grade-catalytic-converter-federal-exc-ca/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4atnEpKtKvtifnMq9lOr3i-Xi-nl0-pQ3RbNJ86iwl9s8cfQ36DunMhoC9KEQAvD_BwE

I only have experience with the Invidia cat, which is very spendy,

https://www.invidia-exhausts.com.au/invidia-liberty-2010-down-pipe-j-pipe-with-high-fl

but keep in mind that all of these aftermarket cats have, from what I understand, a more restrictive opening in the flange compared to the stock cat. The one that I have from Invidia causes a notable noise when the wastegate is wide open, so I think that you might need a tune if you use an aftermarket one.

I could be wrong about this, hopefully people with more experience can jump in.

[ToolTime]

1 hour ago, motorbreath said:

I only have experience with the Invidia cat, which is very spendy,

https://www.invidia-exhausts.com.au/invidia-liberty-2010-down-pipe-j-pipe-with-high-fl

but keep in mind that all of these aftermarket cats have, from what I understand, a more restrictive opening in the flange compared to the stock cat. The one that I have from Invidia causes a notable noise when the wastegate is wide open, so I think that you might need a tune if you use an aftermarket one.

I could be wrong about this, hopefully people with more experience can jump in.

You can get it for around $700
https://www.importimageracing.com/products/hs10sl1dpc-invidia-invidia-high-flow-cat-downpipe-subaru-legacy-gt-2010-2012

I will say this: Get the high flow invidia cat - it will cost you a tune/ map update. But for $1000 you'll gain a nice high flow downpipe and ~+25 hp +50 torque (roughly) and you'll be at stage 2.

Downpipe/exhaust, recirc bpv, and a 3 port boost controller (also not expensive) should get you 295hp and 345 torque @ the wheels. This is the perfect time to do those mods since you need a new cat anyways. Plus: many smiles per gallon

if you don't want to do that stay OEM. But I'd still recommend a protune over cobb maps. Cobb doesn't do maps for stage 2 5th gens. It also runs very poorly if you don't get a tune with the downpipe (from my experience, don't be me). Car was constantly running rich.

[Jimothy_14]

2 hours ago, motorbreath said:

I only have experience with the Invidia cat, which is very spendy,

https://www.invidia-exhausts.com.au/invidia-liberty-2010-down-pipe-j-pipe-with-high-fl

but keep in mind that all of these aftermarket cats have, from what I understand, a more restrictive opening in the flange compared to the stock cat. The one that I have from Invidia causes a notable noise when the wastegate is wide open, so I think that you might need a tune if you use an aftermarket one.

I could be wrong about this, hopefully people with more experience can jump in.

I used the Invidia J pipe too. It's a very tight fit, but you can feel how much quicker the turbo spools up after the tune

[motorbreath]

22 hours ago, ToolTime said:

I will say this: Get the high flow invidia cat - it will cost you a tune/ map update. But for $1000 you'll gain a nice high flow downpipe and ~+25 hp +50 torque (roughly) and you'll be at stage 2.

Downpipe/exhaust, recirc bpv, and a 3 port boost controller (also not expensive) should get you 295hp and 345 torque @ the wheels. This is the perfect time to do those mods since you need a new cat anyways. Plus: many smiles per gallon

This is essentially what I am running, but with an open-source e-tune, and it is absolutely worth it, see the attached boost (MAP) curve using the stock turbo. The only drawbacks that I have experienced are that (i) its a little finicky to start in very cold weather (< -20C) and (ii) you really have to be careful of EGT when cruising on the highway.

[Falcor]

Love the enabling, but I'm not planning on keeping the car too much longer. I can't justify dumping that much into it just to sell it. On top of the cat, it will soon need the 120k service and a set of tires.

 

[motorbreath]

7 hours ago, Falcor said:

Love the enabling, but I'm not planning on keeping the car too much longer. I can't justify dumping that much into it just to sell it. On top of the cat, it will soon need the 120k service and a set of tires.

 

Well, I had to give it a shot.

[Falcor]

Got my car back today and it still had the factory tune for the drive home. The code never popped up. I'm wondering if the Stage 1 Cobb tune makes the system more sensitive to to cat?

[Brunzo]

One more step to carbon ceramic brakes today: made 3d scanning of my wheels, as they should fit 355mm brake rotor and 6 pot caliper inside the wheel. The tricky part is to do it for my r17 forged winter bbs rv772 wheels (from jdm forester), its "brembo ok" wheel. If they will fit brakes inside this wheel, then it should fit all brembo ok wheels. 

[Scubaboo]

Did the timing belt, and pretty much everything under the timing cover, and lots of stuff outside it too.

Good thing the shop had the special tool for the left cam bank!

[Humble Rumble]

15 hours ago, Brunzo said:

One more step to carbon ceramic brakes today: made 3d scanning of my wheels, as they should fit 355mm brake rotor and 6 pot caliper inside the wheel. The tricky part is to do it for my r17 forged winter bbs rv772 wheels (from jdm forester), its "brembo ok" wheel. If they will fit brakes inside this wheel, then it should fit all brembo ok wheels. 

Hey, just a quick word of warning. I have the Type RA STI 6-pot's on mine, which are a 340mm rotors, and the minimum size possible for them is 18" wheels. Being that you're going for 355, I really don't think 17" BBS will have any chance to fit at all. At the very least, even just test fitting them, you're extremely likely to scuff both the edge surface of the caliper and the inner surface of the wheel. If they do somehow fit over the calipers, you're going to have 1-2mm of clearance at best. 

Another thing to consider is wheel width. If I recall, JDM Forester BBS wheels are typically 7" wide, 7.5" at most, never seen 8" or wider. Subaru themselves state that the minimum specs to fit my style of 6-pot Brembos is 18x8.5 +55. The older 4-pot Brembos are a much smaller caliper than 6-pots. Granted, there are lower profile Brembo calipers out there than the STI ones, but honestly I would just save yourself the trouble and prepare to wear 18's or larger permanently. 

[Brunzo]

17 hours ago, Humble Rumble said:

Hey, just a quick word of warning. I have the Type RA STI 6-pot's on mine, which are a 340mm rotors, and the minimum size possible for them is 18" wheels. Being that you're going for 355, I really don't think 17" BBS will have any chance to fit at all. At the very least, even just test fitting them, you're extremely likely to scuff both the edge surface of the caliper and the inner surface of the wheel. If they do somehow fit over the calipers, you're going to have 1-2mm of clearance at best. 

Another thing to consider is wheel width. If I recall, JDM Forester BBS wheels are typically 7" wide, 7.5" at most, never seen 8" or wider. Subaru themselves state that the minimum specs to fit my style of 6-pot Brembos is 18x8.5 +55. The older 4-pot Brembos are a much smaller caliper than 6-pots. Granted, there are lower profile Brembo calipers out there than the STI ones, but honestly I would just save yourself the trouble and prepare to wear 18's or larger permanently. 

You are right, there is not much space for fitment, but going to r18 in winter is suicide. Our roads are very bad. 

They will check what is possible. Perhaps i will use this brake kit during summer only if cant be fitted with r17.  

[NVAKeith]

Brunzo, check with Braid.  They made a 16" wheel that fit over STI Brembos which otherwise required 17"ers.  Maybe they've got a similar spec'd 17" that would work...

https://braidusa.com/pages/our-16-subaru-sti-wheel

[Brunzo]

On 2/27/2024 at 7:38 PM, NVAKeith said:

Brunzo, check with Braid.  They made a 16" wheel that fit over STI Brembos which otherwise required 17"ers.  Maybe they've got a similar spec'd 17" that would work...

https://braidusa.com/pages/our-16-subaru-sti-wheel

Wow, its nice to know. I will check it. Thanks

[Falcor]

Swapped out the leaking vent hose on the passenger side. The old hose was hard as a rock. Also cleaned up the oil that had been running down the valve cover. Hopefully this stops the oil from burning on the exhaust. 

[Jimothy_14]

just wrapped up my sparkplugs this evening. sparkplugs 1 &3 were al little dirtier than 2&4, but idk if that means anything. also had quite a bit of crust on them, so when i went for a test drive the idle was much more consistent.

[Plastixx]

Had to call a shop today to get a quote for a clutch job. Clutch fork snapped right when I got home from work. Talk about being lucky and unlucky at the same time.

I don't know if the clutch itself really needs replaced, but if I'm already paying the ridiculous labor charge, might as well replace it all. $2175 total.

Edited April 19 by Plastixx

[Scubaboo]

1 hour ago, Plastixx said:

Had to call a shop today to get a quote for a clutch job. Clutch fork snapped right when I got home from work. Talk about being lucky and unlucky at the same time.

I don't know if the clutch itself really needs replaced, but if I'm already paying the ridiculous labor charge, might as well replace it all. $2175 total.

OTOH that area should be GTG for the next few years.

[Plastixx]

13 hours ago, Scubaboo said:

OTOH that area should be GTG for the next few years.

I'd like to get another ~2 years out of it. It's only at 92k right now, but it's getting pretty old for a salt belt car. Also need to do a lot of other things to it. Struts, timing belt, and the passenger side of the engine started ticking lightly about a year ago. Hopefully it just needs the lash adjusted and it didn't drop a valve guide.

I just hate paying someone else for something I can technically do myself. I'm just not in a position to be able to do it right now. Hopefully it shifts and feels a little better at least. I've driven manuals all my life and this is the first one that I actually loathe having to drive.

[Scubaboo]

Still a ways to go (arent we all lol), hope that solves the shifting issues so you can move on to the other stuff

Edited April 21 by Scubaboo

[Falcor]

On 4/20/2024 at 7:56 AM, Plastixx said:

I'd like to get another ~2 years out of it. It's only at 92k right now, but it's getting pretty old for a salt belt car. Also need to do a lot of other things to it. Struts, timing belt, and the passenger side of the engine started ticking lightly about a year ago. Hopefully it just needs the lash adjusted and it didn't drop a valve guide.

I just hate paying someone else for something I can technically do myself. I'm just not in a position to be able to do it right now. Hopefully it shifts and feels a little better at least. I've driven manuals all my life and this is the first one that I actually loathe having to drive.

There are a handful of things you can do to make the shifting crisper. Mine has been modified for years, but I do remember initially it was not the best.