What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

[dizzydrummer89]

I finally found a set of 5x100 wrx wheels for the Legacy.  Now I just need to get a set of winter tires on the stock rims and some all seasons on the new set. A bonus is that they have very little curb rash.

[kattz]

Ts LCA's arrived yesterday from Japan. Took them down to the shop and cleaned them thoroughly.  Sending out for clear anodize.

[Sudz]

This post is coming a bit late since I got these in the spring, but I finally got some new wheels. Enkei T6R's in a 5x100 18x8.5 et 45. I'm pretty happy with the fitment, next up will have to be new struts and springs or coilovers.

[Scooby Fan]

Nice lookin'  ride Sudz.....the bronze looks great with the white!!

[Humble Rumble]

On 9/20/2023 at 5:41 AM, kattz said:

I sent him a few PMs during the last week, but he hasn’t read them yet. I got the lower control arms cheap, so if they don’t work right it’s not a big deal. I plan on re-bushing and rebuilding most of the front end and rear end while it’s out.

I plan on taking the entire engine, transmission ,and front cradle to the machine shop, and we will jig it up there and make the new mounts.

Sorrrrrry sorry I've not been checking the site as regularly as I used to, been a busy couple months. There is definitely some caveats to having these front arms that can make things more complicated to set up, and although they will fit up, they are not directly plug and play on USDM cars. However if you know what you're dealing with ahead of time, it's not too bad to address. 

Firstly, they can take all the same bushings/ball joints as the USDM arms can. I personally recommend SuperPro poly bushings for all three spots on each arm. The Lower Inner Front bushing is part # SPF3091K. The Lower Inner Rear bushing is part # SPF4863K, which is what I have on my arms, but I'd recommend going with part # SPF4865K instead, which is the Double Offset version of that bushing that allows for up to an additional 1 degree of caster to be added. Whenever mine wear out, I'm going to be switching to these. Lastly, the Roll Center kit, part # TRC0002. Use SuperPro's kit over Whiteline's kit. Years back for whatever reason, the shop doing my install could not get the Whiteline ball joint to seat properly on my car, and they noticed that there is a slight difference in base height between the Whiteline and SuperPro kits, and SuperPro was able to work. 

NOW, the bastard issue with the tS Aluminum arms: your front fitment will be permanently unsquared from your rear fitment, due to the fact that JDM/World market cars (which these arms were made for) have 20mm NARROWER track width than USDM cars. Why? I have no earthly fucking idea. Probably the same dumb reason Subaru decided to make LITERALLY EVERY BODY PANEL different between the two markets. What this means is that installing these arms without additional corrective measures will add +10 positive offset to your front wheels only. Essentially if your wheel is +45 offset, these arms on a USDM car will make them fit like +55. This caused me an issue years back when I was still on struts and springs, as my wheel/tire setup cleared at +45, but rubbed the tire on the strut at +55. I did a whole track day like this and essentially shaved my front tire edges and destroyed them. 

There is two possible solutions: 1. Run 10mm spacers in the front only at all times (will need extended studs in the front). This is what I do and have done for the last 5 years and other than complicating new wheel setup purchasing a bit, it's been issue free. I got +5mm H&R extended studs in the front and run 10mm FastWRX hub centric spacers, so it equates out to the same as running a 5mm slip on spacer. 10mm spacers on factory length studs will not allow for enough thread engagement to safely mount. You can do longer than +5mm studs if you want, you'll just need to run open ended lug nuts.

2. Find wheels that are available in the same size with an offset difference of 10mm (for instance, 4 of the same wheels, but 2 of them at +45 and 2 of them at +35). This is more difficult to find and makes front to back tire rotation impossible without dismounting the tires from the wheels, but it completely avoids using spacers (which some people fret about, I don't personally). It would still be a good idea to do extended studs in the front.  

One last thing to note is that being on coilovers eliminates the majority of inner fitment issues with these arms, and the need to run square offset front and rear fitment is basically just for the sake of your diffs. If you aren't worried about the front wheels being 10mm more inset than the rear, then send it. 

[kattz]

5 hours ago, Humble Rumble said:

NOW, the bastard issue with the tS Aluminum arms: your front fitment will be permanently unsquared from your rear fitment, due to the fact that JDM/World market cars (which these arms were made for) have 20mm NARROWER track width than USDM cars. Why? I have no earthly fucking idea. Probably the same dumb reason Subaru decided to make LITERALLY EVERY BODY PANEL different between the two markets. What this means is that installing these arms without additional corrective measures will add +10 positive offset to your front wheels only. Essentially if your wheel is +45 offset, these arms on a USDM car will make them fit like +55. This caused me an issue years back when I was still on struts and springs, as my wheel/tire setup cleared at +45, but rubbed the tire on the strut at +55. I did a whole track day like this and essentially shaved my front tire edges and destroyed them. 

There is two possible solutions: 1. Run 10mm spacers in the front only at all times (will need extended studs in the front). This is what I do and have done for the last 5 years and other than complicating new wheel setup purchasing a bit, it's been issue free. I got +5mm H&R extended studs in the front and run 10mm FastWRX hub centric spacers, so it equates out to the same as running a 5mm slip on spacer. 10mm spacers on factory length studs will not allow for enough thread engagement to safely mount. You can do longer than +5mm studs if you want, you'll just need to run open ended lug nuts.

2. Find wheels that are available in the same size with an offset difference of 10mm (for instance, 4 of the same wheels, but 2 of them at +45 and 2 of them at +35). This is more difficult to find and makes front to back tire rotation impossible without dismounting the tires from the wheels, but it completely avoids using spacers (which some people fret about, I don't personally). It would still be a good idea to do extended studs in the front.  

One last thing to note is that being on coilovers eliminates the majority of inner fitment issues with these arms, and the need to run square offset front and rear fitment is basically just for the sake of your diffs. If you aren't worried about the front wheels being 10mm more inset than the rear, then send it. 

Wow, thanks for the info!  All good stuff!

The hubs will all be STI, so I will be changing over the wheels to Enkei, Gram Lights, or Apex (wallet permitting). Affirmative on the coilovers, but having to change to STI coilovers.  You have spring psi recommendation?

After reading this, also considering the HardRace front LCA's, but know nothing about them yet. Kinda wondering if the STI hubs change the offset further.

Reading this, I would have a slightly staggered offset with the rear being 10mm wider per side, 20mm total. What does this do to hard cornering?  And can the vehicle still receive a performance alignment?

Pushing for 275's or 285's, no one here to do a fender pull, Turn-In Concepts can complete the fender roll.  The front fenders on this vehicle have no roll but have almost no lip... sheet metal is jagged and the paint is bubbled under there. Not sure what was done.

Edited October 3, 2023 by kattz

[Humble Rumble]

The Hardrace ones will have the same issue as they're also designed on the JDM chassis. As for handling, I actually forgot my front spacers for an autox event earlier in the year and didn't even notice until I looked back at pictures, car still handled great. I don't believe the STI hubs will change the offset, should be the same as the current just 5x114.3 instead of 5x100. 

For suspension settings, I currently have Fortune Auto 500's on with Swift springs, 10k front and 9k rear, and +2k over-valved. They handle awesome but I'm thinking about upping the rear spring to a 10k or 11k and seeing how I like it since they're modular.  

 

275/285 will definitely need a roll flat front and rear, if it looks like its been modified previously, you might as well just cut, sand, and seal the inner edge to get the most possible clearance and cut out any rust cancer. My fenders are rolled flat and pulled a bit, I'm on 285/30/19 and fit. 

Edited October 4, 2023 by Humble Rumble

[kattz]

Finally, everything is imperial units.  That TPMS light will be gone soon enough.

The only p/n still available new is the 2010 p/n, 85021AJ01A.  That's what this one is.  All displays including the eyebrow ambient temp and fuel display and the HVAC all changed to °F and miles from metric.  Took 20 minutes.

Big shout out to Aaron and team at Kings Subaru in Cincinnati.

Edited October 5, 2023 by kattz
Added P/N

[DrD123]

Got tired of the annoying horns and replaced them with some Hella trumpets - found that the connector used by Toyota is the same as by Subaru, so bought the application specific ones which plug right in (except for the low one - the harness is a little too short, so I picked up a pigtail and made an extension adapter) - sounds much better now!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EG18SFM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I had been thinking about the normal supertone install that lots of folks do (also listened to the sharptones), and while it's loud, I really don't like how it sounds - trumpet based horns just sound a lot better to me, and these are definitely quite a bit louder than the OEM denso horns!

[DrD123]

Used these two parts to make an extension harness for the low horn (the one right behind the grille) - the OEM harness is just a little too short since the OEM horn has the harness attach on a different side of the horn.  (wasn't sure if I'd need two extensions - this was cheaper than buying two sets of pigtails, so I just chopped off one leg and used that to make the harness (could even use the plastic cover to protect the wire) - soldered the two together and zip tied it out of the way.

[Scubaboo]

^On the list, I'm not particular with horns but the stock Subaru ones sound pretty cheap IMO

[lagwagon]

Is there a thread about converting from pre-face lift to face lift front end? I want foglights and it doesn't look like this was an option on pre-face lift NADM cars, unless I'm missing a model.

 

EDIT: maybe I just replace the black piece but retain the same bumper? That's what the NADM cars look like whereas the overseas cars look to have a very different foglight bezel.

 

Edited October 16, 2023 by lagwagon

[Sudz]

1 hour ago, lagwagon said:

Is there a thread about converting from pre-face lift to face lift front end? I want foglights and it doesn't look like this was an option on pre-face lift NADM cars, unless I'm missing a model.

 

EDIT: maybe I just replace the black piece but retain the same bumper? That's what the NADM cars look like whereas the overseas cars look to have a very different foglight bezel.

 

Edit: I found the thread

Hey lagwagon, I think there is an old thread with a step by step on installing fog lights. I can confirm that installing them in a pre-facelift bumper is a 10 to 20 minute job. You will need new black fog light bezels, fog lights, factory relays, fuses, and the mirror control switch with the fog light button. When I installed mine I ordered the bezels and fog lights new and went to a scrapyard for the relays and switch. The car is pre-wired so it's all plug and play.

Edited October 16, 2023 by Sudz
new information to share

[lagwagon]

2 hours ago, Sudz said:

Edit: I found the thread

Hey lagwagon, I think there is an old thread with a step by step on installing fog lights. I can confirm that installing them in a pre-facelift bumper is a 10 to 20 minute job. You will need new black fog light bezels, fog lights, factory relays, fuses, and the mirror control switch with the fog light button. When I installed mine I ordered the bezels and fog lights new and went to a scrapyard for the relays and switch. The car is pre-wired so it's all plug and play.

Thanks for the parts list. I dug around on Heuberger and found a multi function switch with the rotating fog light bezel, I'm wondering if they updated that part. I'll have to try to find the part number you gave on their site. 

[NORULZleggy]

On 8/28/2023 at 4:47 PM, NORULZleggy said:

So my 2013 2.5i my wife drive does have the FB25 engine oil burn issue, but I do check it often. I saw this because I decided to check. Is it head gasket? or what, i plan on getting it fixed.

Well the shop got the car all buttoned up and will be picking the car up this weekend. The head gasket was going, also the the car was burning oil from factory so it got new rings, rebuilt the heads with GSC bits. Car is now solid and ready to go. It was cheaper than buying a nice used car.

[Scubaboo]

^Thanks for posting the solution to the problem, and hope that fixes it for good!

[NORULZleggy]

On 10/18/2023 at 1:38 PM, Scubaboo said:

^Thanks for posting the solution to the problem, and hope that fixes it for good!

Yes full motor out and rebuild, I made sure that all the factor problems were taken care of. Now I have my 60 LGT full rebuild and tuned, my 13 2.5i full rebuild, and my daily. better then crazy car payments. Putting on winter wheels and tires in a few weeks, and changing oil/filters.

[creep_nu]

have friends, coworkers, whatever not understanding why i keep investing money in my older cars...even if i have to drop $2k/yr on average which is way high, that's what...4? 5 months of car payments?  less nowadays?  still way cheaper in the long run, and i like my old stuff.

Edited October 20, 2023 by creep_nu

[DugsSin]

Cause when my Ole Stuff gets together with her Ole Stuff we both come away smiling. 

[Alexmed2002]

4 hours ago, creep_nu said:

have friends, coworkers, whatever not understanding why i keep investing money in my older cars...even if i have to drop $2k/yr on average which is way high, that's what...4? 5 months of car payments?  less nowadays?  still way cheaper in the long run, and i like my old stuff.

It's honestly the best way to go. Granted my car still has 3 years left of payments but it was best for my situation. I plan on getting a used truck for cheap in the future to run along side my primary vehicle.

Edited October 20, 2023 by Alexmed2002

[Scubaboo]

Rebuilt my Improved Racing thermostatic sandwich plate with a lower temperature thermostat.  No problems with current setup, just wanting to see the effect.

Changed the oil while I was there with Amsoil European Car Formula 5W40 and the filter with my usual go-to OE Tokyo Roki 15208AA00.

[kattz]

2015 STI front and back seats.  Need to be cleaned up but basically perfect.

By the way, I was looking for these seats for a month or more. Do you realize how hard it is to find limited seats, with all leather and no alcantra, and heat? It's like hunting for a needle inside a pile of needles. When I install these I'll put a build up on it. Especially the wiring.

Edited October 21, 2023 by kattz

[DrD123]

Yesterday was brake day - new pads and rotors all around (EBC redstuff this time around).  Also replaced the seals and other rubber bits for the front calipers (used OEM parts for that) - pistons came out more easily than I thought (using a compressor and firing them into a 2x6) - dust boots were damaged, so I figured might as well replace everything.

[Scubaboo]

3 hours ago, DrD123 said:

Yesterday was brake day - new pads and rotors all around (EBC redstuff this time around).  Also replaced the seals and other rubber bits for the front calipers (used OEM parts for that) - pistons came out more easily than I thought (using a compressor and firing them into a 2x6) - dust boots were damaged, so I figured might as well replace everything.

Redstuff?  When I was looking at the EBC range I thought this was their racing compound that needed to be up to temp to work well?

Good call doing all that work while you were there rather than get trashed calipers from ingress later on.

[DrD123]

6 hours ago, Scubaboo said:

Redstuff?  When I was looking at the EBC range I thought this was their racing compound that needed to be up to temp to work well?

No - the redstuff is their high performance, low dust pad for street use (they recommend for cars >200bhp) - the combination street and track pads are the yellow and blue ones (they indicate the red are not for track use) - they also have a few pad lines that they indicate are for "full track" - I had them years back on my WRX and really liked them so figured why not.