Jimothy_14
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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4
Jimothy_14 replied to SBT's topic in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
just wrapped up my sparkplugs this evening. sparkplugs 1 &3 were al little dirtier than 2&4, but idk if that means anything. also had quite a bit of crust on them, so when i went for a test drive the idle was much more consistent. -
Just washed my car after getting it back, so here's some information on it. it's a 2010 legacy GT in Steel silver with a black interior. The car has quite a few mods from previous owners, including an aftermarket head unit with a screen, blacked out grill(now removed) and removing the 2.5 gt and legacy badges. I personally put on an Invidia 3" catted downpipe after the old catalytic converter died, a tweaked 93 octane cobb tune, and a damper valve delete. the end goal for me is a daily drivable car with a little more power, but still an enjoyable driving experience. Next steps are probably putting on 2.5 gt badges, an exhaust and a bypass valve.
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just got it back from the transmission specialist shop, the clutch is way lighter, but not uncomfortably so. will make a post with pictures and build documentation once i wash it.
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there's a cracked stud in the transmission housing, so I'm getting it towed to a transmission shop tomorrow morning
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I think so. the picture is the car after resting for a day. it looks and feels centered on the dimple, and seems more extended than it should
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to provide a few more details, i used DOT 3 brake fluid, bled the clutch, and then attempted to start the car. Clutch pedal wouldn't go in, so i pressed the switch that tells the car it's in while in neutral. once i attempted to put it in gear, the clutch didn't engage.
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Update, got brake fluid to cycle through, but now the clutch is very tough and the car won't go into gear. Any ideas as to what's doing this?
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8C8XS4Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 This is the 10mm one, fits most if not all brake lines in my legacy. Not great for breaking things loose, but a flare nut wrench or just open end 10mm can do that
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damper is out, New master cylinder is in. ended up stripping the old master cylinder to damper line, so that got replaced in the process. waiting on my brother to come over later this week to bleed the clutch. all in all, i should have gotten that 16$ brake line ratchet thing a week before i did. attached is a picture of the new master cylinder
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Michigan: FOR SALE JMP Custom VF54 LOWERED PRICE
Jimothy_14 replied to JmP6889928's topic in Member Classifieds (2010 - 2014)
what kind of supporting mods would this need? -
Thanks for the explanation. the only other Manual I've driven was a GMC 6500 with a diesel so I've never really noticed it, but my mom always compared the clutch and throttle feel unfavorably to others. it does sound like a good thing to do, even if it takes another afternoon to finish everything up.
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I'm only replacing it with a new and functional OEM master cylinder. i saw the thread you posted about the damper delete though, and i don't think i entirely understand what the damper delete entails and what benefits it has for the car. could you explain?
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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4
Jimothy_14 replied to SBT's topic in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
I used the Invidia J pipe too. It's a very tight fit, but you can feel how much quicker the turbo spools up after the tune -
What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4
Jimothy_14 replied to SBT's topic in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
it spent some time in the Midwest, not sure how long. when i took it off i needed to take a Sawzall about a third of the way through the exhaust studs and saw off the cat for clearance to get the nuts off and replaced all four with new studs -
What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4
Jimothy_14 replied to SBT's topic in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
good to hear. mine has a p0420 that i ended up solving with a new cat and turbo to cat gasket. hopefully yours is just a bad gasket cause catalytic converters, turbos, and exhaust manifolds are all insanely expensive -
Currently destroying my shoulders and having to use 3 different tools to unscrew the top brake line on the top brake line of the clutch master cylinder. Does anyone know an easier way to unscrew the brake line?