Tehnation Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 For the summer I plan to get: -Cobb Flex fuel kit -Bigger injectors and or fuel pump if needed, 1200cc or 1500cc. -a bigger turbo if more fueling isn't enough, I have the ATP Gen 2 GTX3576r in mind(if I can't break 400awhp with my billet 20g) -Also start looking into and getting parts for 6mt upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 27, 2021 Author Share Posted October 27, 2021 I been meaning to get a tool set for the car, I think max had linked one years ago, still remember it? Something cheap, has everything useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 One tool.....it's slim....fits in your wallet and saves SOME bloody knuckles and greasy finger nails.....AAA Plus membership lol. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 Yeah, Harbor Fright has a set that's fairly decent for around $40. You may want to add a few tools to it once you get it. You may want to check "garage sales" too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 27, 2021 Author Share Posted October 27, 2021 One tool.....it's slim....fits in your wallet and saves SOME bloody knuckles and greasy finger nails.....AAA Plus membership lol. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk LOL!! Trust me I already have my AAA plus, 5 free tows 100 miles! Its worth its weight in gold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 damnit man..... it happened again.... just went through my second tow! Drives fine, then I get on it, and dead, won't start back up again. Batteries dead... wtf. What are the symptoms of a bad alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) WTF! I charge the battery for like 10-15 minutes and the car fires right up....... i wanna burn this thing to the ground... I don't think its the coolant temp sensor cause the readings on the gauge are normal. Seems like when I put a big load on it, it goes fubar. Thinking the voltage regulator or alternator is shitting the bed. I have no cels, it cuts off like someone pulled the keys out the ignition. Ordered this cheap alternator on amazon to get the ball rolling.... at some point I want to spend money on gas not parts lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY07R4S/ The voltage regulator is on the alternator right??? Edited October 30, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) I believe, with the engine at idle, you can put a meter on the battery cables to read what the voltage is. Yes I believe the regulator is internal. Just saying, you can get one locally much faster, but you might pay a little more. My NAPA will have one ready for pickup in 30 minutes. Oh, does Advance Auto Parts still test alternators ? That might be a good idea. Call them. Edited October 30, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 I asked google for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=does+advance+auto+parts+test+alternators&sxsrf=AOaemvLTlN4Q_tDu1EkDOU9_r6uSUtdrHA%3A1635599414713&source=hp&ei=NkR9Ydr9J9XA1QGywIawBw&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYX1SRi6rVIFj2dCmgYr3dWST-94vZeUP&oq=does+advance+auto+parts+test+alternators&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCGAzIFCAAQhgM6BAgjECc6CwguEMcBEKMCEJECOgUIABCRAjoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6CwguEIAEEMcBEKMCOgsILhCABBCxAxCDAToECAAQQzoKCAAQsQMQgwEQQzoNCC4QsQMQxwEQowIQQzoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQ0QM6BQgAELEDOggIABCxAxCDAToECAAQAzoICAAQgAQQsQM6BggAEBYQHjoKCAAQgAQQhwIQFDoICCEQFhAdEB5Q3Q1Yo4IBYKaGAWgCcAB4AIABaIgBiBmSAQQ0MS4xmAEAoAEB&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwja8OvQmvLzAhVVYDUKHTKgAXYQ4dUDCAk&uact=5 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) I believe, with the engine at idle, you can put a meter on the battery cables to read what the voltage is. Yes I believe the regulator is internal. Just saying, you can get one locally much faster, but you might pay a little more. My NAPA will have one ready for pickup in 30 minutes. Oh, does Advance Auto Parts still test alternators ? That might be a good idea. Call them. Autozone/Napa have them for like $250+, Amazon is $125 and will be here tomorrow. I'd rather save 125 bucks and wait a day. I can't get the car anywhere to get it tested! I've driven like several miles on both occasions and had to tow it home twice, so no way I'm risking a journey like 4 times the distance of the breakdown location. I suck at electrical stuff, but I do have a multimeter somewhere but my alternator is original one, so I'm just going to assume thats the issue. Is there a CEL for the alternator? Battery light doesn't come on either but it might be that its strong enough to give the volts to not trigger the light but not enough amps to start and run the car. Or something is getting hot and overheating. I tried jumping it yesterday with the tow guys battery pack but it wouldn't start, but as soon as I got it home it fired right up after 10 minutes of charging. Both times at the same spot under hard acceleration the car died. Ive pulled the alternator already and the car can start and run without it.... makes me wonder if my cars been running on battery all this time, which is why it cuts out when I romp on it. Edited October 30, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) Anyone know how the hell to use this thing? https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator?filterByKeyWord=alternator&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=alternator&referer=v2 I'll take the $125 no core charge.... why not, how cheap can it be lol Edited October 30, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 Are you fur reel? If so we can get you through some testing before spending $$$.... Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) I'm j/k, its like riding a bike, i'll figure it out. So I just reinstalled the alternator, and tested with multimeter got 14.3 volts..... should the nut that attaches the cable on top of the alternator get burning hot????? I went to touch it and it burned my hand, I can see smoke coming from the nut burning off water, its been rainy lately. That can't be right!?!?! nm, i don't think the nut was tight enough. So I duno, its putting out 14.3 volts but I don't know what happens when it goes under load, voltage should go up right or down. So the alternator works at idle, but not sure whats going on under load, where I think the issue is which is why I am thinking voltage regulator. I'm gonna try pulling the ground on the battery next. Not sure what that will do, cause i'm tired of getting stranded on the side of the road...... I need a real tester, testing the voltage is different from testing the load, so at idle things can be fine, but once the load goes up the voltage regulator is supposed to do something, and I think thats where its failing because it was under high load, where I basically just stomped the pedal. This is why I hate electricity and diagnosing electrical problems... Edited October 30, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) hmmm.... fuel pump? Seems like my fuel pressure was a little low car wouldn't start just now even though it was starting fine up until now, so I charged battery for several minutes or so and it fired up. Is the pump going bad or is there not enough current.... hmmm gotta rethink all this. I have a 0 or 2 gauge wire going from my battery to a distribution block in trunk which powers my pump and amps. Not sure if the pumps issues are due to the electricity issues or vice versa. Whatever, good to have spare parts.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MWXRK4/ Edited October 30, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 You say that your engine dies when it's at high load. Have you tried measuring the voltage of your battery before startup and then checking it after it your engine dies? If the voltage remains the same, then your battery and alternator should be fine. If it drops, then you know that your alternator is no good. You may be able to do this in your driveway with just revving your engine. It might be a good idea to buy a portable jump starter in case you get stranded again. It's also worth checking all of your grounds. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) I tried just reving in the driveway, not nearly enough load to get it to die. I need to be accelerating very fast. I'm thinking that the voltage is dropping to low and killing my fuel pump, which all stems from the alternator not putting out enough current under load. I will try and do more measurements on the battery, if it doesn't fire right up in the morning or dies again in the driveway, I will be sure to measure the battery first now that I am using the multimeter. New alternator and fuel pump should be here tomorrow, so hopefully I can get to the bottom of this. I don't think its my grounds, I've double and triple checked them. I have it grounded from the head to the frame rail on both sides, a ground for the wiring harness by the back of the driver side tgv, and all are thicker gauge wire. Amps and fpm are grounded to the body in the trunk. But I will quadruple check in the morning! Edited October 31, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) So i measured the voltage this morning on the battery it was at 12v and then 14.5v after starting, so thats right. Fired right up, but for some reason I think the fuel pressure is a little low. It was around 22-24psi when I put the key in ignition, then went up to 55psi while warming up, and then dropped to 33-34 psi. Now that i'm typing it out, that pressure seems about right. So I duno. This sucks cause I get no cels, and it only breaks down when I'm on the road, like wtf lol. I think I will take a look at the fuel pump as well, but readings seem right I think. I should probably get some fresh fuel in there..... if the damn car could make it to a gas station. I got year old gas mixed with even older gas. I should probably change the fuel filter at some point as well. Not the little baggie at the end of the pump, i'm talking the big ass plastic piece that everyone overlooks, I didn't even realize that entire contraption had the filter built into it! For those that want to change their fuel filter its part number 42072AG16A, goes for around $70 bucks. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Fuel-Filter/49249672/42072AG16A.html https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-42072AG16A-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00L2OWQ8W Edited October 31, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) Is one of the fans supposed to ALWAYS be on when the key is in the ignition and the car is running? Hmmm, looks like there was a recall a long while back, I hope my fan circuit isn't fried..... I wonder if the recall is still valid. Forums say if the fan is always on then the circuit is already fried, I hope they are wrong..... how much are ECU's going for these days? Part number 22611AJ17E, 850 bucks new........ i guess i'm driving with the fan always on lol. I could get one used for 150 bucks off ebay. Then you gotta go to stealership cause it wont drive otherwise right? I'll try replacing the relay 1st but my ecu may be already borked.... is the ecm same thing as the ecu? Yea its borked, I pulled the fan 02 relay and it still comes on..... screw this, i'll save this for another day. Edited October 31, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 If you do need an ECU, buy a used one which should be ~100 bucks and either transfer the immobilizer EEPROM chip physically or reflash the EEPROM as discussed here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clone-your-immobilizer-chip-replacement-ecm-ecu-279426.html Or mail both the new and old ECUs to one of us who's already set up to do the flash and we can do it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 No, it shouldn't. Are the green connectors in your passenger footwell connected? They are for diagnostic use only. I made that mistake once. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) I was hoping it was the green connector, so I checked and it was unplugged.... the cobb ap spoon feeds you the instructions, and its like disconnect green wires. Yea i think the fan circuit is fubar. lol I just ordered all the stuff for flashing the rom. This is definitely another time thing lol. So I will read up on all that info in the post and try to do it myself, I am no stranger to programming, and if I don't have to solder chips then I am definitely game. My main issue is I don't like this fan coming on and burning electricity for no reason, especially before I even start the car. Is there a way to test the fan circuit? I don't want to buy a used one only to find the same problem, cause this seems like a very common issue, so I be there are a ton of borked fan circuit ecus out there. Would I need to unmarry my accessport? Or does flashing move all the data i need? Edited October 31, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) A dealer would most likely still honor the recall if it hasn't been done. I would reach out to your local dealer to see. Edited October 31, 2021 by rhino6303 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) cancelled that order, part wouldn't be here until december. Would this work ? https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-SOIC8-EEPROM-CH341A-Programmer/dp/B07SHSL9X9/ Seems like everything in one, and much cheaper route, not sure about the 24 25 93 95 stuff. Edited October 31, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 A dealer would most likely still honor the recall if it hasn't been done. I would reachbout to your local dealer to see. Definitely going to check stealership first, but I like to hope for the best and prepare for the worst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) ok, so changed the alternator, started up and ran it for a minute or so, got a misfire on every cylinder, shut it off, now it won't start back up...... got a couple backfires while trying to start it up. Fueling ?? Fuel pump, injectors, maybe fpr? All are fairly new and have like no miles on them. How do you know if you have enough grounding? Edited October 31, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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