Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!

[Tehnation]

I think where I went wrong was I greased the inside AND outside. I think I am only supposed to grease the inside of the seal or the surface of the crankshaft. So next steps are to wipe it all down with some brake cleaner or lacquer thinner, grease only the inside of the seal and make another attempt. Gotta go to stealership tomorrow and grab 2 seals, hopefully they are in stock. I wanna get the motor in next week.

 

Anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel and clutch?

Edited October 3, 2021 by Tehnation

[Max Capacity]

See page 3677 in the 2005 service manual.

 

Pressure plate is 11.8ftlbs

FW is 52.8ftlbs

[Enlight]

Not to derail the thread but what is the deal with wrapping down pipes? Good or bad? And what is better a turbo heat shield or a turbo blanket?

 

My DEI Titanium wrap did not last more than a year including two AZP track days, even after I painstakingly sprayed them with their high temp coating and cured them over my grill.

 

re: Heat shield vs blanket, I would think heat shield prevents radiant heat and blanket is an actual insulator. The heat shield is redundant after a blanket, but a shield will not do as much to keep underhood temperatures down. I went the blanket route.

[whitexc]

Thanks ^^^.

 

I'm going to go the blanket route for now and I am not wrapping anything. I may look into coating the DP when the fancy Cobb piece finally shows up. Not even sure that is worth the hassle.

 

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[cheeseenlo]

WTF, i don't remember the rear main seal being so damn annoying to install...... gotta order another one......I'm tempted to order this

https://www.flatironstuning.com/asf-machine-rear-main-seal-installation-tool-ej , but I said let me try again a in a couple days after I cool down....

 

I'm so pissed.... I wanted to try and get the motor in today/tomorrow, but ended up butchering the seal because it kept going in to deep on one side. Next step grease it down like a squealing pig.

 

I have a similar tool from P&L that I can lend you. You still have to be careful tightening it down with the flywheel bolts.

 

I think where I went wrong was I greased the inside AND outside. I think I am only supposed to grease the inside of the seal or the surface of the crankshaft. So next steps are to wipe it all down with some brake cleaner or lacquer thinner, grease only the inside of the seal and make another attempt. Gotta go to stealership tomorrow and grab 2 seals, hopefully they are in stock. I wanna get the motor in next week.

 

Anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel and clutch?

 

I have an extra RMS too.

 

Let me know if you want to swing by NNJ / Bergen County to pick up the tool and seal.

[Max Capacity]

FWIW, I use https://www.google.com/search?q=gold+heat+tape&sxsrf=AOaemvIkK2HWtT7idCu3p960WKev6b6mmA%3A1633469993736&source=hp&ei=KcZcYYbXKryrwbkP3oO62AM&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYVzUOU1QF8fpeHqOYPKFvgAgV0DDRSW7&oq=gold+heat+tape&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYATIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQ6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOggIABCABBCxAzoLCAAQgAQQsQMQgwE6EQguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDEJMCOhEILhCABBCxAxDHARCjAhCTAjoICAAQgAQQyQM6BQgAEJIDOgsILhCABBDHARCvAToLCC4QgAQQsQMQgwE6CAguEIAEELEDOgUILhCABDoICAAQsQMQgwE6EQguEIAEELEDEIMBEMcBEKMCOggILhCABBCTAjoHCAAQgAQQClDN-xJY4ZkTYIO4E2gAcAB4AIABYYgB8AWSAQE5mAEAoAEB&sclient=gws-wiz

 

On the inside of the stock heat shield. I bought a 12x24 piece.

Edited October 5, 2021 by Max Capacity

[norutah]

FWIW, I use https://www.google.com/search?q=gold+heat+tape&sxsrf=AOaemvIkK2HWtT7idCu3p960WKev6b6mmA%3A1633469993736&source=hp&ei=KcZcYYbXKryrwbkP3oO62AM&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYVzUOU1QF8fpeHqOYPKFvgAgV0DDRSW7&oq=gold+heat+tape&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYATIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQ6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOggIABCABBCxAzoLCAAQgAQQsQMQgwE6EQguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDEJMCOhEILhCABBCxAxDHARCjAhCTAjoICAAQgAQQyQM6BQgAEJIDOgsILhCABBDHARCvAToLCC4QgAQQsQMQgwE6CAguEIAEELEDOgUILhCABDoICAAQsQMQgwE6EQguEIAEELEDEIMBEMcBEKMCOggILhCABBCTAjoHCAAQgAQQClDN-xJY4ZkTYIO4E2gAcAB4AIABYYgB8AWSAQE5mAEAoAEB&sclient=gws-wiz

 

 

 

On the inside of the stock heat shield. I bought a 12x24 piece.

 

[ATTACH]293542[/ATTACH]

Same thing here. I cerakoted the grimmspeed turbo heat shield and covered the underside with the gold sheet

 

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[boxkita]

I think it depends on the wrap. I'm using some cheap shit that disintegrates like awfulwaffle stated. I see it falling apart already and I haven't even put 100 miles on it, its just been sitting in my garage for about a year or 2. But the headers put out so much heat, so I duno. I think I just need a better quality wrap or something else. What I got sucks.

 

I think someone had linked the right wrap to use in the past, can't remember. You need the really good stuff that works at the right temperature.

 

look up heatshieldproducts.com. They make stuff drag racers use, ie. stuff that works. Be sure to use N95 mask and follow all PSE requirements (dei fiberglass seems like a walk in the park, comparatively).

 

Or you can step up to actual shielding systems. The factory system is actually really good at shielding, albeit ugly. You can make your own using aluminum sandwich material.

 

Wrap holds in the heat but doesn't allow the metal to expand. The dei product isn't high enough temperature rated to sustain turbo temperatures. 1800 degrees is common in turbo applications. dei breaks down at 1100. math/physics take over at that point.

[boxkita]

Thanks ^^^.

 

I'm going to go the blanket route for now and I am not wrapping anything. I may look into coating the DP when the fancy Cobb piece finally shows up. Not even sure that is worth the hassle.

 

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Containing the heat from the headers helps everything else stay cooler. It helps to keep heat in the header where its best used to drive your turbo not heat your power steering unit or heads or wiring or oil filter or ...

[whitexc]

I get it. Some sort of coating for heat retention makes sense but wrapping isn't the answer, at least from what I have seen and read about. Maybe in a summer/weekend car but not one driven in our climate where you could be sloshing through salty slush for months, which is part of this cars purpose for me.

 

Back to this build. Did you get a new seal and tool yet?

 

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[Tehnation]

Ok, picked up 2 rear main seals at the stealership this week, got an extra for those wtf moments.

 

So I see the trick to installing the rear main seal is to make sure the outside is clean and free of any lubricants. I also wiped down the outside mating surface. Grease only goes on the inside of the seal, after that its easy cheesy. Grease on the outside and your in for a world of trouble!

 

[Tehnation]

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/exhaust-and-header-wrap

 

It looks like most of the wraps are for 1200°F 649℃ CONTINUOUS/2000°F 1093℃ Intermittent

 

The only one with something better is the Inferno Wrap

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/inferno-header-wrap-heatshield-products

2000°F 1093℃ CONTINUOUS/3000°F 1649℃ Intermittent

 

Amazons got it.

https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-325001-Inferno-Insulating/dp/B0051US8YO

[Enlight]

I'm going to be replacing the wrap on my headers with Heatshield's armor product down the line to prevent my fan shroud and wires from melting again. I'm very skeptical of wraps as my DEI titanium wrap was rated for 1800f continuous and still failed quickly.

[Tehnation]

This Inferno wrap seems to make some bold claims! Has my interest.

 

-Rated for sustained 2000°F guaranteed

-Longevity - Inferno Wrap lasts years

-Great for turbo manifold insulation

-Proudly made in the USA

[whitexc]

It does sound enticing.

 

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[Tehnation]

If I wasn't so thirsty to get this motor in, I would rewrap my header with the Inferno to try it out but at this point I have no interest in playing with fiberglass.

[Tehnation]

how do you guys jack up the front of the car without using the spare tire jack spot? I want to get some stands underneath the front. Normally I jack the back up to get a stand under the front, but theres gotta be a better way. I have a low profile jack.

[Max Capacity]

I put the floor jack under the frame rail of the side, back about under the seat so a jackstand will fit just back from where the frame rail turns straight.

 

I have also lifted from the front under the connection point for the rear mount of the LCA.

[whitexc]

Same here.....lift on the frame rail and jackstand adjacent to that.

 

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Edited October 9, 2021 by whitexc

[Tehnation]

Can our steering pumps be rebuilt? Is there a seal kit?

[Max Capacity]

I think there is a post in JmP's sticky in the past year or so with something about a Honda rebuild kit working...?

 

 

yep, see post #270

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p7.html

Edited October 10, 2021 by Max Capacity

[Tehnation]

Awesome! Thanks again!

 

Got the motor in! Took about 90 minutes this time, I'm getting way to good at this lol. Called it do to rain.

 

 

Got most things connected. All thats left is to install the downpipe, and to install 2 new o2 sensors and the wideband for my a/f gauge. After that I gotta install the intercooler, add my fluids, charge the battery, and then start it up. And recharge ac system but I am doing minimal stuff until I know the motor doesn't have to come back out. With my luck oil or coolant is gonna shoot out somewhere lol .

Edited October 10, 2021 by Tehnation

[Tehnation]

So just scanning the net and found this guy, wondering if its for both the pump and rack and pinion?? Looks like its just the rack and pinion. Might have to do that as well, so I'll keep this on the backburner.

 

Gates 348805 Power Steering Repair Kit

Edited October 10, 2021 by Tehnation

[Tehnation]

Anyone looking for a good torque wrench at a low price check this guy out!

 

https://www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-2-Inch-Torque-13-6-203-5-LX-183/dp/B07MP1Q3W8

 

I went through about 3 before I landed on this one. Comes with a qc card showing test results for several ranges. Has worked flawlessly for me, always clicks when it should! 35 bucks, well worth the money!

[Tehnation]

For the wiring of the gauges for my a pillar(oil temp, oil pressure, a/f ratio and boost, I am going to run everything through the big grommet under the driver side fender, Lots of surface area to push a bunch a big crap through and its right below the pillar so its easy and a short distance.

 

Also need to find a headlight wire, (a wire that supplies current when the headlights are on, can't use dimmer switch), for dimming at night. Anyone know anything easy to splice off of in that area?