Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 It was the crank position sensor! So time to deal with overheating issues not sure its because my main fan can't come on due to no relay or because its just getting hot. I wonder if I should put in this old relay..... Not sure if its shot or not, anyway to test a relay? I don't want this guy blowing out my new ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 FINALLY!!!!! I'm about to toss in the old ecu to get the fan working just so I can drive it....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) So why would my brake light suddenly start staying on? This new ecu seems to have the same problem, the fan stays on with or without the relay installed. Maybe its cause the coolant temp was above 180..... gotta see what happens from a cold start. Nevermind brake light, needed some brake fluid. Edited November 17, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 So why would my brake light suddenly start staying on? This new ecu seems to have the same problem, the fan stays on with or without the relay installed. Maybe its cause the coolant temp was above 180..... gotta see what happens from a cold start. Nevermind brake light, needed some brake fluid. Are you sure you have the right relay? Not sure how the fan would stay on with the relay removed. If the coolant sensor is not connected or reading, both fans will run 100% because the ECU doesn't know if you are overheating or not and is playing it safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 (edited) Are you sure you have the right relay? Not sure how the fan would stay on with the relay removed. If the coolant sensor is not connected or reading, both fans will run 100% because the ECU doesn't know if you are overheating or not and is playing it safe. Thats a symptom of a shot fan circuit, which means this ecu I got might already be shot! The fan is just always on with the ignition on. Could be that if the relay is shot or not there it just keeps it on. Edited November 18, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 Have you double checked the plug to the coolant sensor? That will cause 100% fan with ignition on as well if the ECU isn’t getting signal. I just ran into this with my son’s Outback where the plug wasn’t seated all the way. Not trying to sound like a broken record, but it’s pretty unlikely that both ECUs have failed in the same way. I would go after the coolant sensor first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 ^^^ Or change it.....didn't you order a few different sensors? The plug itself could be compromised. These cars are old at this point. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 How am I getting coolant temp readings then??? My accessport tells me the temp realtime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 So back to the relay? Is it the correct one and is it functional? I'm not familiar but can you swap it with another relay...or get your DVOM and test it. We're in this with you lol. Just spouting thoughts and ideas. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 waiting on the new relay. I'm hoping that fixes the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 Have you double checked the plug to the coolant sensor? That will cause 100% fan with ignition on as well if the ECU isn’t getting signal. I just ran into this with my son’s Outback where the plug wasn’t seated all the way. Not trying to sound like a broken record, but it’s pretty unlikely that both ECUs have failed in the same way. I would go after the coolant sensor first. Would you get proper temp readings if the sensor was not working correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 (edited) The open road! Back to getting my inspection and sneaking around to get 50 miles on it lol. So I am supposed to have lower vacuum according to tuner, maybe like 12-16 inHg is that about right? What should I be logging? datalog10.csv and damnit a cel.... p0000, p0301, p0302, p0303 and p0304. Getting an inspection is going to take forever lol Maybe some coil packs, and injector cleaner. Going to start with some injector cleaner first. Berryman Chemtool fuel injector cleaner is a good stuff. Relay arrives on Saturday. Wait wtf is p0000???? My temp goes up when idle, but goes down when driving. I'm sitting between 180-195, so don't think it was my thermostat. Now I got P0171 system to lean...... vacuum leak..... but cams..... gotta talk to tuner.... sucks when they did the tune a year ago, who the hell would remember whats what. Pretty soon i am just going to start turning codes off just to get the inspection, ah wtf i have an accessport now.... can you do that with an ap? Just need Evap test and I can get it tested..... after I turn off the codes. Actually, not sure how that would work, there is a realtime map change, so I may or may not have to start over after turning off cels. Hmmm... AccessTuner Race, 150 bucks to take the course so you can mess with tunes, only way to get software is to take the course....... hmmmmmmm Edited November 19, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 19, 2021 Share Posted November 19, 2021 (edited) All those codes at once...what is common to the coil packs ? Have you re-seated the main harness connector ? How does the engine feel when it got those codes ? Could you feel the miss-fire ? Edited November 19, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 Only thing I could think of was fuel or spark to cause those codes. Maybe its just the mods. didn't even notice the misfire! No idea when it happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 19, 2021 Share Posted November 19, 2021 (edited) Are you working with a tuner? Are you sending these logs to anyone to make changes? I know there have been issues but some of this may be caused by the tune and or whatever they have done thus far.....no? You would have felt that misfire I think. I agree with Max....check the main connectors. Contact cleaner and a light brush does wonders. I contacted Mike @ Tuning Alliance and have a tune loaded in the AP ready to rock and roll with all the changes made....as soon as its ready to fire that is[emoji848]. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Edited November 19, 2021 by whitexc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 (edited) None of the usual e tuners on the this site do stage 2/3 cams. So I had to look locally cause I need a dyno tune they all said. I am in the break in stage of the motor, and was supposed to put on 1k miles then go get the dyno done, but that was over a year ago so technically I am out of the updating range of the original base tune I got. I would probably have to start over and pay another 250. I am working with efi logics https://www.efilogics.com/ They aren't really an etune service, they have a dude on the other side of the country who does their etuning for people like me who need a tune to get to the dyno. So I am in a bit of a gray area. Edited November 19, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 19, 2021 Share Posted November 19, 2021 I think P0000 is a general misfire code, which makes sense. Have you double checked the timing? Being off by a tooth or two could cause a full set of misfire codes. Also, getting the plugs for the coils reversed will do it as well. Did you replace the cam sensors? Did you reset the ECU after replacing the crank sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 I checked the timing 1st or 2nd time it died and had to be towed, there are pictures in thread I believe. Black plugs for rear cylinders grey/white for front. Didn't replace cam sensors, they didn't come in yet. I reset it, and reloaded the maps since changine the crank sensor. I had no codes for a good amount of miles, happened randomly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 Looking into the tune. On another note, looks like i did get a 2nd ecu with a blown fan circuit... just my luck. New relay and Coolant temp sensor and same thing fan always goes on. ..... damnit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 still waiting on this tuner.... going to install the fpr I bought, might as well use it. Going to see if raising the pressure will let my injectors flow better. I am using a stock fuel rail which has small diameter piping, so might not be enough pressure to give the injectors what they need. The aftermarket fuel rails all have bigger piping which doesn't need more pressure cause it holds more volume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 Gobble Gobble Everyone! I hope everyone has a safe and happy Thanksgiving! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 Happy Thanksgivings to you too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 What is idc, injector duty cycle, at idle for you guys? Playing with the pressure made the p0171 code come up faster, like right after I reset the ecu, after I raised it...... hmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 27, 2021 Author Share Posted November 27, 2021 (edited) hmm now i am consistently getting p0171, p0301, p0302 and p0303. But no p0304?? hmmmm what do u guys think? Why 3 out of 4 and not all 4 ? datalog12.csv datalog11.csv Edited November 27, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 You have 1 of 2 things: 1. Major vacuum leak. OR 2. Injector/Maf Scaling is WAY off. There is a learned value of 15% fuel added and it's still adding an additional 20-25% fuel at idle to reach an afr of 14.7. The misfires are because you're so lean that the car can't fire properly. There's no reason that it's 1, 2 and 3 without 4. I know you've smoke tested. You might do a boost leak test. Here is a video with the way I'd use (soapy water for bubbles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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