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Perrin 2015 WRX Short Shift Adapter


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  • 3 weeks later...
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this is the best Trans mod you can do for this car...period... I've had it installed for 2 days and it's incredible how much of a difference it makes...

 

I have almost all other mods for the trans and this one is 10x better than all the rest..

I doin't mind the added harshness when entering gear.. I got used to it immediatly.

it was a little tricky removing the pin during installation, at first I used a 6" 3/16 punch with socket and extender and couldn't get it to budge, so I sprayed it down with pb, went to the store bought a 10" punch and re-tried .. bang within 20 minutes i had the piece installed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I finally got this done today, after almost 2 hours (1/2 hour with the pin out, 1 & 1/2 trying to get the pin back in), the shifter feels great. Took it only for a light spin but the difference it definitely noticeable.
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  • 3 weeks later...
Yes and I absolutely love it!! Everything Spider-Man says above is true, now I need to figure out how to tighten up the engagement of the clutch and I will be set!!

 

Have you done the clutch damper delete? its cheap, fast, easy, and very effective. it completely eliminates the floating engagement point issue.

 

Does anyone know why the piece that the short shifter adapter replaces is so large? i was just looking at it on the perrin website and it has these huge, seemingly unnecessary, wings on it. i understand why the pin position is different but why is it so damn big

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Have you done the clutch damper delete? its cheap, fast, easy, and very effective. it completely eliminates the floating engagement point issue.

 

Does anyone know why the piece that the short shifter adapter replaces is so large? i was just looking at it on the perrin website and it has these huge, seemingly unnecessary, wings on it. i understand why the pin position is different but why is it so damn big

 

Is there a write up post for this? Is it all diy or do I have to buy anything? I would love to help my shifting out as much as possible

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Weight, to assist with gear engagement, so your arm doesn't have to. Same concept as a weighted shift knob. And you're a mechanical engineer?

 

just doesn't seem like the best solution to me. I'd rather have it in the knob or contained within the trans somewhere where there is no chance of something lodging underneath it (especially since they decided the shifter cable cover was unnecessary for '12 leaving it more or less exposed) to keep me from continuing to bang shifts. it does use its weight to full advantage being spread out like that and giving it a large moment of inertia.

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Meaning you like the Boomba better?

 

Very much so. Its super obvious even from under the car. When you move the lever on the tranny by hand with the non-weighted one, it takes effort to go out of gear, and into the next. With the weighted one, it happens in more in one motion.

 

Ripstik .....:lol: Nothing is going to get lodged in there. More weight on the shifter lever on the transmission is much better than having it on the shift knob. Well I'd argue that both is best... It's going to do nothing but add Rip to your stik!

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I was going to go boomba anyways because someone else made it sound like the "forward" motion was short and the "pull" towards you was longer so making it sound like it was easier to push&pull into gear. Which id prefer for my style especially if I do autoX
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  • 5 months later...

Hi All,

 

I've just gotten a Boomba SSA and I'm trying relentlessly to get the pin out of the stock piece. I'm using a 3/16" punch and I've been hammering at this thing for several hours cumulatively. I've soaked in PB Blaster and have taken the entire transmission crossmember off for better access (and to install Whiteline shift kit + Group-N mount :cool:). At this point the pin is deforming inside of the stock adapter rather than pressing out of the other side.

 

Has anyone had any success in drilling the pin out? That's just about my last option as I see it. All of the underbody rust and corrosion on this car is killer - must have come from up north.

 

Thanks!

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You have to hit the pin dead straight on and it will come out even though it doesn't seem like it will budge. It is a big PITA but that is what you have to do. I used a socket and extension on my punch to get a good angle on the pin.
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if it fits an '11 it fits a '10. I know that '10s came with a cover plate in that area and some '11s did and no '12s did so it may come down to having to remove that or bang it out a bit to get it to fit
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