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Rattsl's 05LGT Build thread (AutoX, track, yet good for daily)


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Another thing I was going to mention was, would it be a bad idea if I bought a bag or two of ice, and after a heat, place said bag of ice on tmic? I usually just pop the hood and let it breathe, but figured cooling the tmic to a lower temperature would be nice.

 

serious folks use dry ice. And hose down their tires with water.

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I sorta do that already only with a bit of a different method. I painted the letters on my tires white, and that gave me a great idea of how much sidewall was being eaten up by hard turn ins. Not only does it look cool (think classic white-lettered tires on cars in the late 60's to early 90's) but it also gauges the sidewall well.

 

F30/R35 is too soft if running street tires. Find the absolute max cold tire pressure and set it there. Be sure to drop to normal before driving home.

 

When I ran Michelin SuperSports on the Autox, I used F48/R42. If you are hitting your letters, you're way too soft.

 

Look for the triangles near the tread, should be 3 or 4 of them. About 1/4inch high. The tip of the triangle should match the wear line from your run. Using chalk (harbor freight sells it or use white shoe polish (comes in a can with a brush tip)) to cover the tread down to the side wall. I use 3 spots to get an even wear indication.

 

some articles with more details:

http://www.conecoach.com/2015/03/11/tire-pressures-finding-the-sweet-spot/

http://www.awdriven.net/autoX-tire-pressures.htm

this is track-centric - http://www.carlosparacio.com/how-to-adjust-tire-pressure-for-performance/ - however info is still relevant. The blog has other useful posts, too. BTW, this is the guy who setup the suspension on my wagon, as well as a lot of racecars & autox champions in the PNW.

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The best method for taking care of heat soak is preventing it. Get a PTP turbo blanket and wrap all your exhaust pieces. My header was swaintech coated as well.

 

As for ice bags, just load up your tire sprayer with ice. I'd still have ice in mine at the end of a long hot day. Just don't leave it in the sun between driving heats.

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So, this Sunday is another race day, and it may rain, but I'm gonna have to do a few things before. I will be adjusting my front camber to near almost -2.0 degrees and leave the rears around -1.5 just to see what it feels like. I am yet to install any of the turbo upgrades, but I'm going to hold on to those for when it's needed as a maintenance item.

 

Last time I noticed I had tons of tire roll over, so I will not only adjust camber, but run a stiffer setting for rear suspension and softer up front. Tire pressure, I may do F30 R35. Only want to do this so the rear end can be picked up a little easier. (in theory)

 

Thoughts?

 

I sorta do that already only with a bit of a different method. I painted the letters on my tires white, and that gave me a great idea of how much sidewall was being eaten up by hard turn ins. Not only does it look cool (think classic white-lettered tires on cars in the late 60's to early 90's) but it also gauges the sidewall well.

 

If you're rolling over onto the letters, you're way too low. Your tires shouldn't roll past the shoulder.

 

My happy place for pressures on Z1SS were 36f/38r. Go higher pressures to get better response on a tighter, transitional course and go lower pressure to maximize grip on a more open course with sweeping turns.

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Finished my day for Autox. Thank you guys for the tips!

 

Tires were set to 40psi f and 45psi then 48psi r. Softented suspension up front and stiffened the rear all the way. I hardly had understeer and had oversteer in the right places. Car handled very well overall and placed 3 out of 4. Onto the next event. I would say my reaction in turn ins has improved dramatically. I'll have a video uploaded later.

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^you need to work on your hand positions. you need to keep your hands at 9 and 3 on the wheel and not let go of the wheel at all unless you are crossing hands in which case only one hand leaves the wheel. your hands are all over the place. the under-steer is happening because you are applying the power to soon or too abruptly. with a softly sprung car making power, you get a lot of throttle on rear weight transfer, which means the front lifts and you get less grip for turning. Are you still on those crappy tires?
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^you need to work on your hand positions. you need to keep your hands at 9 and 3 on the wheel and not let go of the wheel at all unless you are crossing hands in which case only one hand leaves the wheel. your hands are all over the place. the under-steer is happening because you are applying the power to soon or too abruptly. with a softly sprung car making power, you get a lot of throttle on rear weight transfer, which means the front lifts and you get less grip for turning. Are you still on those crappy tires?

Yea, still on the crappy tires. I may borrow some wheels and tires from someone if they're willing and run the July 12th event.

 

Regarding the hand positions. I just used what was most comfortable to me lol. I normally drive at 9 and 3 positions, but because of all the quick turns, I have to fight understeer and the front tire slipping after corners. I do see how stickier tires would solve this though.

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No matter how quick the turns are you need to keep you hands planted on the wheel as much as possible. letting the wheel center itself, letting slip through your hands is the wrong way. you need to be controlling the wheel unwinding.

 

as i said, the understeer is caused by you getting on the power to much or too soon in the corners. you are overwhelming the tires with too much power while the weight transfers off the front tires. Roll on the gas as you unwind the wheel.

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No matter how quick the turns are you need to keep you hands planted on the wheel as much as possible. letting the wheel center itself, letting slip through your hands is the wrong way. you need to be controlling the wheel unwinding.

 

as i said, the understeer is caused by you getting on the power to much or too soon in the corners. you are overwhelming the tires with too much power while the weight transfers off the front tires. Roll on the gas as you unwind the wheel.

 

I'll try that next time then. Sound advice.

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That's not hardly any understeer....that's understeering your whole way through the course.

 

There was understeer on almost every single steering input.

 

 

You should have seen my first time last event.

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So...At work, and reading up some stuff. Since this is also the daily, and I'm 100% aware I'm not making gobs amount of power, I've been thinking about my TMIC setup, and stock location turbo. To prevent as much possible heat soak coming into the TMIC, has anyone done a mixture of a wrapping the headers and downpipe with heat wrap, and using a turbo blanket, along with a heat sink on top of the turbo heat shield?

 

In theory, this would not only prevent heat soak onto the tmic, but also let the gas molecules in the turbo to flow quicker, and throughout the exhaust.

 

Please tell me I'm way over my head, or if this is a odd, quirky project I should try. (Results may very, but sounds plausible enough to work)

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So...At work, and reading up some stuff. Since this is also the daily, and I'm 100% aware I'm not making gobs amount of power, I've been thinking about my TMIC setup, and stock location turbo. To prevent as much possible heat soak coming into the TMIC, has anyone done a mixture of a wrapping the headers and downpipe with heat wrap, and using a turbo blanket, along with a heat sink on top of the turbo heat shield?

 

In theory, this would not only prevent heat soak onto the tmic, but also let the gas molecules in the turbo to flow quicker, and throughout the exhaust.

 

Please tell me I'm way over my head, or if this is a odd, quirky project I should try. (Results may very, but sounds plausible enough to work)

 

Not sure how much you are gonna spend trying to resolve heat soak issues, but put that $$$ to tires.

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I'll wrap the downpipe as much as I can and the header. Probably before the next event. May have to wait on the heat blanket, or see if anyone has one lying around.
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Not sure how much you are gonna spend trying to resolve heat soak issues, but put that $$$ to tires.

 

Wrap is what....$25-$40? Then the turbo blanket I may find secondhand, and I have a little bit of sheetmetal. Tires are an easy $800.

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well, only one will actually matter on an autox course. ;):lol::)

 

Being poor is bad, m'kay. Lol. I do see where you are coming from. I've been shopping Craigslist for local deals. Maybe I can score one soon.

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what size are your wheels again, and do you have only 1 set, or multiple sets of wheels available to you?

 

Only have 1 set of wheels right now, and they're a horrible size for wide tires. 17x8 +35, using 215/45's.

 

I have been looking for a 17x9 +45 so I can use wider tires.

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