StoplightAssassin Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Max the front negative camber. Put rear negative camber at about half a degree less than the fronts. 0 toe in the front. 1/8 to 1/4 total toe in in the rear. I highly recommend NOT running 0 toe on the rear of a street driven car, especially if you are not always the only driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 Maxed up front will be close to -4..... Lol. I'm dailying right now hahaha. I was thinking -1.5 at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 What coilovers? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 BC BR's. INB4CHEAP After selling my other setup, these will end up to be about $50 out of pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Maxed up front will be close to -4..... Lol. I'm dailying right now hahaha. I was thinking -1.5 at least. -1.5 isnt much for autox. I would start with -2.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 BC BR's. INB4CHEAP After selling my other setup, these will end up to be about $50 out of pocket. Unless you are running custom camber plates, -3 is about max with bc. If you haven't pulled the fenderz do that. If you click my link to boxkita s wagon then scroll down to the corner balance link, i posted the specs from corner balance on bc. That will give you a starting point. When done the cross balance should be 50.00%. Anything else is wrong and make them redo it. Also bring weights so you can it setup for your track day config. I showed up with half a tank of gas. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Unless you are running custom camber plates, -3 is about max with bc. If you haven't pulled the fenderz do that. If you click my link to boxkita s wagon then scroll down to the corner balance link, i posted the specs from corner balance on bc. That will give you a starting point. When done the cross balance should be 50.00%. Anything else is wrong and make them redo it. Also bring weights so you can it setup for your track day config. I showed up with half a tank of gas. West End has you sit in the drivers seat while they do the work, instead of weights. But it's up to you to pull out the spare tire, jack, glock, 2 spare quarts of oil, and all those quarters, before you get on the lift. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 My first corner balance took 8 hours. Weight is preferred Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 My first corner balance took 8 hours. Weight is preferred Well holy krap! Listen to the man! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 To be fair, I spent a considerable time "helping". Also they dida couple of test drives and made adjustments each time. In the end I had 3 corner balances and a number of rear suspension mods before it was "right". This was over a couple months as track time had to be scheduled Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 The only reason I went with a high value up front is because of the off season. Once I start back up in March, it'll go back to -2.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Right now, the only things messing me up is the lack of rear camber adjustment. I have a Whiteline bushing that I am yet to install, but what other part do I need? I think it's the Whiteline arms if I'm not mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Right now, the only things messing me up is the lack of rear camber adjustment. I have a Whiteline bushing that I am yet to install, but what other part do I need? I think it's the Whiteline arms if I'm not mistaken. Yes. KTA124 and KCA326 maybe? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 My nites say kta124 , cusco rear chassis braces, specb upper arms. Braces had the highest impact in keeping rear planted...caveat wagons get light in hard cornering Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 You have the Whiteline rear upper arm camber bushing? KCA399? If so, that's all you need, to for +/- 3° camber, although it's not the easiest camber adjustment if you are going to make frequent changes. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 My nites say kta124 , cusco rear chassis braces, specb upper arms. Braces had the highest impact in keeping rear planted...caveat wagons get light in hard cornering Can you explain more? Is it due to the flex in the body due to the hatch? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 You have the Whiteline rear upper arm camber bushing? KCA399? If so, that's all you need, to for +/- 3° camber, although it's not the easiest camber adjustment if you are going to make frequent changes. My legacy is camber challenged. YMMV, but I was only able to dial in -0.8 deg camber with my KTA399 (went to two local performance subie specialist alignment shops, they weren't hacks). KTA124 will give you the freedom you want. Can you explain more? Is it due to the flex in the body due to the hatch? Also curious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 My legacy is camber challenged. YMMV, but I was only able to dial in -0.8 deg camber with my KTA399 (went to two local performance subie specialist alignment shops, they weren't hacks). KTA124 will give you the freedom you want. Also curious! Interesting. I was at -1.9 and we dialed some out! -1.25 pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Depending on how much wheel / tire is on the inside, determines how much camber you get in the rear. The rear trailing arm gets in the way first then the upper part of the strut. You can use spacers to move it out, however then you run into limited fender space, as there is less volume in rear than front. Girodisc has a solution. You have to drill a new hole in the trailing arm mounting location and push the axle rear ward. This centers the wheel in the opening and provides more room for camber. With kta124 and 399, you can duplicate the effects of a spacer without so much downside. by pushing the bottom out and pulling top in. It took 3 tries to get it right because twitchy handling at speed and under high g force. The rear braces tied the body and suspension more rigidly to each other which removed slop in high g...think 1.5g laterally. it was most noticeable after apex and boost was full on. Typically I usedthe throttle to balance rear slide with front lift. Too much and front lost traction overwhelming rear causing body to torque which pulled the inside rear wheel up. Throttle oversteer on 40 treadwear tires running at optimal temperatures is best discovered after the fact watching data/video feeds. From driving Miata on "illegal" tires, I now know the sound of a cage that's fully loaded from the suspension and torque of a turn. Imagine similar noises in a street car... Not long after this, I gave up running the wagon on track. i wish i had video of the 20 minutes driving it at speed. Ive never been around the track tbat fast since then. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 ^^^ Good stuff man! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Just an update for you guys. Having a little too much fun with the car. Car had its wickerbill installed as a V1, then slightly modded to a V1.5 as I trimmed the edges to be a bit smoother with the body lines. So far, from 22mpg I used to get going 80mph for a total of 50 miles a day, and average of 50mph for 20 miles a day, I'm down to mid 19mpg with it. This weekend, I raced event 1 for TX SCCA, where I received my 2nd place trophy for my 2015 SCCA season, and for the first time ever, beat my rivals time (ASP class) while he was riding shotgun with me! I won 1st place out of 3 for event 1 by .041 seconds. ( http://texasscca.org/2016_solo_results/tr16_1_final.htm#ASP ). During my runs, I noticed a clunking noise, and when I came to grid, I noticed my driver side wheel had a more positive camber than passenger side. Turns out the H&R cam bolt shifted, and moved out of place. Threw my stock ones on, and took it to get aligned today. Tons better now. Things I learned from this event, is that I need to increase negative camber, and take it easy through the course. 1 cone per 3 out of 5 runs is unacceptable. We'll see what happens next event. http://i.imgur.com/zFYkxWY.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MOeqmpy.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 If you dont hit cones you werent driving hard enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 True, and what sucks is that it always happened on the same corner. Sorely disappointed, but mad it work in the end. I did notice the car was heating up (1 minute runs) fairly quickly, and I've been wondering of a mod to avoid this. Any idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 Engine temps or tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 Engine Temps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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