Sgt.Gator Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 As far as wheel shake, I swapped my fronts to the rear, and still experience it. Axle, bearings, and lca bushings. Go somewhere that has a Hunter Road Force Spin Balancer and have them check all 4 wheels/tires. One of your wheels may be out of round. http://www.gsp9700.com/search/findgsp9700.cfm My first Acura race car had that issue with a set of Rotas. The solution was to toss them for Enkei. If that isn't the problem start working your way inwards checking and replacing as you go. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 I found one 3 minutes from my house that I pass by daily. It's a Mopar dealer, so I'm curious if they'll check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Pretty fun experiment I did gaming with Gran Turismo. I set up 3 setups on my car. One currently with my power, tire choice, and suspension setup. One with altered suspension setup to a preferable street and autox (camber not exceeding -1.5) and my same power plus one step up in traction (still on comfort tires). Then I did a 300hp setup, with the same suspension setup, plus a sport tire (sport hard, which assume would be equivalent to entry level summer tires "comfort being a/s tires"). End result, current setup ran a 1:58 in Laguna Seca, better suspension and tire ran a 1:52, then the more power, same suspension and better tire ran a 1:47. Really cool seeing how much difference the tire choice and suspension adjustment made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Pretty fun experiment I did gaming with Gran Turismo. I set up 3 setups on my car. One currently with my power, tire choice, and suspension setup. One with altered suspension setup to a preferable street and autox (camber not exceeding -1.5) and my same power plus one step up in traction (still on comfort tires). Then I did a 300hp setup, with the same suspension setup, plus a sport tire (sport hard, which assume would be equivalent to entry level summer tires "comfort being a/s tires"). End result, current setup ran a 1:58 in Laguna Seca, better suspension and tire ran a 1:52, then the more power, same suspension and better tire ran a 1:47. Really cool seeing how much difference the tire choice and suspension adjustment made. I built a duplicate of my Miata in Forza and then practice on tracks that look similar to the ones I drive in RL. I did some testing with tuning setups and tire pressures, too. I knew it was making a difference when I was unconsciously countering the g-forces in corners. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 So, took my car to get diagnosed, and found out its rotors causing my steering wheel shake. Topped off my powersteering, and was told I needed a new pump. With rotors needing to be replaced, I figured I'll go with something no one hasn't really mentioned, and decided to give them a shot. Hawk Quiet slot rotors. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/26/89c5a6907b2ebe13a3d97466ff17f2e9.jpg All 4 under $300 and I was gifted the Stoptech street pads. Now I want to top it off with stainless steel lines, and better brake fluid, plus the brake brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Rotors and pads will go on as soon as I get my hubcentric rings. What brake fluid would you guys suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 motul rbf 600 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Rotors and pads will go on as soon as I get my hubcentric rings. What brake fluid would you guys suggest? ATE TYP 200 is the best price to performance for anything less than full on racing. MOTUL , Wilwood, are all good racing fluids. CASTROL SRF is considered the best for high Hp heavy race cars but it's very expensive. I would start with ATE until you have brake issues. You will probably never push your brakes beyond AT E'S limits. Your pads will go away first. Only using full race pads like Hawk DTC 60 or 70 will you need the more expensive fluids.http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=ATE&model=Type+200+Amber+Brake+Fluid Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 +1 If you find you're exceeding your brake fluid's limits, you need to do one of the following: 1. change the way you drive/brake 2. add brake ducting 3. put in a cage/harness/seat/fire extinguisher 4. get a different car I did #1, then #4 Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 +1 If you find you're exceeding your brake fluid's limits, you need to do one of the following: 1. change the way you drive/brake 2. add brake ducting 3. put in a cage/harness/seat/fire extinguisher 4. get a different car I did #1, then #4 Hahahhahahhaa Well I was just curious mainly. As a daily, it does undergo a lot of highway braking, (debris, accidents, and animals) and I understand conventional will be just fine. Just trying to improve brake feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Fluid won't change the feel of the brakes, it's bleeding the system that will make it feel better. The best improvement you can make to your brakes is with a great set of tires. If you can activate the abs, you're leaving braking performance on the table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slvr08lgt Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 I seem to be finding VF52s at a reasonable price, so I'll stick to those, plus it's a direct bolt on. As far as intercoolers go, I'm still weighing options. As you know from Instagram I blew my motor..I'm selling my whole setup vf52 18k on it no shaft play at all wastage was welded shut for ewg, up pipe with dump tube and 38mm ewg 650cc inj..this setup made good power on a conservative tune and stock fuel pump 311awhp and 340wtq This is a good turbo for auto x considering its quick spool and instant power because of the size, with dialed in suspension matched with turbo you'll pull some nice lap times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Fluid won't change the feel of the brakes, it's bleeding the system that will make it feel better. The best improvement you can make to your brakes is with a great set of tires. If you can activate the abs, you're leaving braking performance on the table. Better tires have more to do with braking performance than any other upgrade. Then lighter wheels. Then better pads. Then the MCB. Actually, I'd put the MCB before tires. It's a life changing experience. Especially the hyperblack chrome version. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 @slvr08gt, I don't have your IG. Also, doing a few things before I get an alignment on the car. Ideally right now, for how I'm driving, I want a pretty flat all around alignment. Between having the fronts at -0.8 and the rears at -0.5, at least somewhere in that range. My rears are at -1.3 and -1.4, so I want to eliminate that. I have purchased the KCA399 kit for the rears to help with adjustment, so for the fronts, I'm good buying the H&R camber adjust bolts, or the Eibach ones? (Cost difference, and actual camber adjustment difference). Preferences to either or? My main concentration currently is getting the suspension dialed in before anything. Also, I did my brakes as some of you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 All that work and you didn't paint the calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 All that work and you didn't paint the calipers? Does it help me brake faster? Should I have put on those plastic "Brembo" covers on it to reduce brake dust, thus...go fast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Does it help me brake faster? Should I have put on those plastic "Brembo" covers on it to reduce brake dust, thus...go fast? No, but, neither do those white letters, if you're honest about it. Just pointing out that you went to the effort to make it pretty, and skipped a thing most people do when doing brakes that are visible behind the wheels. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Hey, those look neat. Hahahaha. As for caliper color, I'd most likely end up going black or bronze. I still have to install my KCA399. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Camber bolts are ok, but ideally you want the adjustment of a camber plate. What did you use for the tire letters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Camber bolts are ok, but ideally you want the adjustment of a camber plate. What did you use for the tire letters? At first, white sharpie paint. Then, some product called Hot Tire paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Boy your car is shiny...my black car hasn't been washed in over a month. It looks real good after the drive to VT today, we had 3" of snow this morning. May be in a few weeks when we have the January thaw I'll bring it to the drive thur car wash. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Trust me, it looks shiny. A bunch of road rash everywhere. My sideskirts are shot, my front bumper and hood are shot. Rear bumper needs works. Minor hail damage in a couple places. Ughh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Kinda have been looking around for power mods next seeing as so far, most of my suspension troubles have been fixed. PW Verticooler looks neat. Thick core, nice design that in a aerodynamic point of view, sort of makes sense. (Less surface area to gather heat from stock turbo location, different scoop diffuser.) With that said, I just realized they don't make it for the GT lol. Back to the drawing board. -PW Verticooler/ Something else. -TGV Deletes -740CC injectors -255lph fuel pump -VF52/18g? -cold plugs -plus other necessary hoses. Thoughts? On pump fuel, may be near 280whp give or take. Possibly a bit more depending on the obvious factors. Car just feels slow, and I've overboosted 3 times this season. I may have to check all vacuum hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 PW Verticooler looks neat. Thick core, nice design that in a aerodynamic point of view, sort of makes sense. (Less surface area to gather heat from stock turbo location, different scoop diffuser.) With that said, I just realized they don't make it for the GT lol. Back to the drawing board. It's also less surface area that will be directly hit with cooler air. I'd imagine that intercooler will retain heat much more than it should. Also make sure you have your undertray on if you want to maximize intercooler efficiency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Actually, with the scoop diffuser, it's a lot more surface area. Plus a super thick core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.