3D Printing Development Thread

[Flinkly]

We should start posting stl's on thingiverse. Maybe start all the part names with lgt.com-xxxxxxx

[Tris]

My work has a few 3d printers, a laser cutter, and a cnc machine. Been wanting to learn how to use all of them. Original idea of making a custom bumper skin is delayed until I can figure out how to make smaller bits.

 

had originally planned to 3d print small versions and put them in a wind tunnel for testing. Mostly because the software to flow test is stupid expensive.

 

For now, would be happy to 3d print small objects.

[hadvw]

Just curious - a mounting bracket for a nexus 7 was mentioned once or twice. Did it ever get anywhere? I.e. is anyone offering such a bracket (for the '05-09 LGTs) for sale? I just decided to keep the car a bit longer, and am looking to add a nexus to the cubby..

[freaksavior]

Just curious - a mounting bracket for a nexus 7 was mentioned once or twice. Did it ever get anywhere? I.e. is anyone offering such a bracket (for the '05-09 LGTs) for sale? I just decided to keep the car a bit longer, and am looking to add a nexus to the cubby..

 

No, the problem was that it's 13" wide and the printers are not wide enough to make it happen.

 

The 7" jdm gps bezel works fine though. Just cut a slit in the vent and slide the cable through it. You could probably buy this >> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10031 and make your own so you don't have to cut into the vents.

 

edit: Do you specifically mean a bracket to mount the tablet? I thought you meant the bezle.

 

Either way, if you mean brackets, just grab some metal L brackets at home depot and use some Gorilla Mounting tape.

Edited January 2, 2016 by freaksavior

[compsurge]

We should start posting stl's on thingiverse. Maybe start all the part names with lgt.com-xxxxxxx

 

lgt.com-OEM_P/N ?

[NSFW]

Nice thread, everybody!

 

A few years ago I bought a cheap strut bar from ebay, just to mount some stuff in my engine bay. think this is the same part, though I think mine cost $40 at the time:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-UP-STRUT-TOWER-BAR-FOR-SUBARU-LEGACY-JDM-STI-STYLE-/360029589035?hash=item53d36f8e2b:g:1iEAAOSwl9BWJMHm&vxp=mtr

 

Then I drilled some holes in it and mounted an air/oil separator, and then a fuel pressure regulator.

 

Then I found the same thing but wrapped in carbon fiber. I'm kind of enamored with carbon fiber bling, so I bought one from a member here. But I didn't want to drill it, so it sat, waiting for me to think up a way to mount stuff without drilling. 3D printing to the rescue, of course. I bought a MendelMax 2 a while back... My printer has some issues with accuracy on the Y axis - probably my own fault but I can't figure it out. However it is working well enough for prototyping, and I finally started on this project last week.

 

I have parts printed in PLA now, but I'm not confident this stuff will hold up, so I want to get them printed in ABS on a printer that can print things with straight sides.

 

I've attached a picture of what I have so far - I still need a bolt to hold everything together but I'll get that this week.

 

I'm doing the modeling in OpenScad, and I'll put stuff on thingiverse when I'm a little happier with the results. The parts I've made so far are sized for the carbon-wrapped bar, but it will be easy to tweak them to work with the raw metal bar.

 

The middle part is specific to the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but it should be easy enough to make parts that mount anything else. I might make one for a manual boost controller next since I need to relocate mine anyway.

[compsurge]

I wouldn't have thought of using a strut bar for mounting accessories.

 

You'll definitely want to get PLA out of there ASAP. It degrades pretty quickly in heat and the elements.

[StkmltS]

I wouldn't have thought of using a strut bar for mounting accessories.

 

You'll definitely want to get PLA out of there ASAP. It degrades pretty quickly in heat and the elements.

 

I struggle to get ABS to print flat (reprap prusa i3) so for just for trying things out PLA should be fine (continous use vs. just testing it out).

 

Long term (a couple hours?) you'll probably have problems. You'll know it when it happens because a big chuck of PLA probably puts off an obvious stench when it falls onto your hot motor

[compsurge]

There are some great products out there now for ABS. http://3d-eez.com/ is one of them. There are some build platforms available on Amazon as well that appear to work quite well up to 60 degrees C or so.

[Streetlegal]

Man I haven't been on here in awhile. sorry guys :/ Still haven't had a chance to test fit. But it is a 52mm pod.

 

I struggle to get ABS to print flat (reprap prusa i3) so for just for trying things out PLA should be fine (continous use vs. just testing it out).

 

Long term (a couple hours?) you'll probably have problems. You'll know it when it happens because a big chuck of PLA probably puts off an obvious stench when it falls onto your hot motor

 

Are you printing in an open environment or are you printing in a temperature controlled one? Our printer keeps the temps just below the melting point and I rarely have an issue with keeping the ABS flat.

[Jdemod]

No, the problem was that it's 13" wide and the printers are not wide enough to make it happen.

 

The 7" jdm gps bezel works fine though. Just cut a slit in the vent and slide the cable through it. You could probably buy this >> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10031 and make your own so you don't have to cut into the vents.

 

edit: Do you specifically mean a bracket to mount the tablet? I thought you meant the bezle.

 

Either way, if you mean brackets, just grab some metal L brackets at home depot and use some Gorilla Mounting tape.

 

My printer does 10.5" round x 15 or so tall...

 

>_>

<_<

[freaksavior]

My printer does 10.5" round x 15 or so tall...

 

>_>

<_<

 

Well... you could print it in half, and then snap and glue it together. I'm sure some bondo, or heavy autofill primer and paint would make it look as good as an OE unit.

Edited January 6, 2016 by freaksavior

[compsurge]

I'm sure someone can build one just for this purpose

[Streetlegal]

Well... you could print it in half, and then snap and glue it together. I'm sure some bondo, or heavy autofill primer and paint would make it look as good as an OE unit.

 

We print things in pieces and put them together quite a bit for some of our 10x scale tool models. It works really well actually. Design a "key" in the parts so they go together the right way.

[StkmltS]

There are some great products out there now for ABS. http://3d-eez.com/ is one of them. There are some build platforms available on Amazon as well that appear to work quite well up to 60 degrees C or so.

 

That stuff looks pretty cool. I've been using an acetone+ABS slurry, but I may try something like the 3d-eez product.

 

Are you printing in an open environment or are you printing in a temperature controlled one? Our printer keeps the temps just below the melting point and I rarely have an issue with keeping the ABS flat.

 

My build area is open, but I get significantly better results whenever I enclose the printer in a giant cardboard box. I've read that using a heat lamp also helps.

 

I'm sure someone can build one just for this purpose

 

I built my printer from zilch, and since day 1 it's been bouncing around in my head that I "need" to increase the build area. The electronics wouldn't change at all, except maybe a larger heated bed. All you really need to do is beef-up the z-axis, get a wider frame, longer threaded rod, and longer drive belts. Now that I'm thinking about it, I could probably increase the build area in only the Y-axis direction for less than $20. Must fix LGT first...

[compsurge]

Just in!

 

Proto-Pasta releases High temp carbon fiber PLA. There is a discount code WORLDSBESTCF for $10 off. I've used their CF PLA and it has made some neat parts for quadcopters. Bridging isn't something I have mastered yet.

 

Compared to ABS and PET-like materials, HTPLA-CF has:

• Easier and more reliable printing
  
• No heated bed required
  
  
• Lower processing temperatures, like standard PLA
  
  
• Less warping and distortion when processing

  
  

• More temperature resistance* for maintaining properties to higher temperatures
  
• ABS and PET get soft at 80C +/- 10C
  
  
• HTPLA-CF maintains properties up to 120C or more (*when annealed)

  
  

• Higher strength and better strength-to-weight ratio for stronger parts with less material
  
• Improved surface hardness for less wear in abrasive environments
  
• Less shrinkage and distortion for more accurate parts
  
• Higher stiffness so parts hold their shape
  

[Streetlegal]

My build area is open, but I get significantly better results whenever I enclose the printer in a giant cardboard box. I've read that using a heat lamp also helps.

 

Yes if you keep the build area close, but still below, the melting point you will have much better results. Maybe try making a plexiglass box and shining a heat lamp through it?

[Jdemod]

Well... you could print it in half, and then snap and glue it together. I'm sure some bondo, or heavy autofill primer and paint would make it look as good as an OE unit.

 

I meant could I just turn it on its side and print it using the z axis for height?

 

Anyone have the stl that I can take a look at?

[Streetlegal]

I meant could I just turn it on its side and print it using the z axis for height?

 

Anyone have the stl that I can take a look at?

 

Doing that on the z-axis would take forever to print and would use a ton of support material (if support is used).

[Streetlegal]

Oh look

 

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/20160113_202348_zpstza9sdkv.jpg

 

So it pretty much fits. I'm going to move it over a little bit more but it won't need much thankfully.

 

Couple other things I noticed that I wanted to note before I finalize the model:

 

-The gauges don't point directly at your face (vertically) but more at your upper chest/neck which I liked since it wasn't right in you eyes but the guy I tested it with made a mention of it. Not that it was bad but he just mentioned it so I figure I will note it here and see what others' thoughts are.

-Horizontally they are perfect

-I want to test it out on one more car possibly just so I can see if there is any variation in the mounting. Had to file it down a bit more to fit in his than for in my car.

 

If anyone has any other suggestions feel free to say something.

[discojon]

Oh look

 

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/20160113_202348_zpstza9sdkv.jpg

 

So it pretty much fits. I'm going to move it over a little bit more but it won't need much thankfully.

 

Couple other things I noticed that I wanted to note before I finalize the model:

 

-The gauges don't point directly at your face (vertically) but more at your upper chest/neck which I liked since it wasn't right in you eyes but the guy I tested it with made a mention of it. Not that it was bad but he just mentioned it so I figure I will note it here and see what others' thoughts are.

-Horizontally they are perfect

-I want to test it out on one more car possibly just so I can see if there is any variation in the mounting. Had to file it down a bit more to fit in his than for in my car.

 

If anyone has any other suggestions feel free to say something.

 

Next time you print one, snap a photo for me before you dissolve the support material.

[StkmltS]

We should start posting stl's on thingiverse. Maybe start all the part names with lgt.com-xxxxxxx

Yes please!

[NSFW]

In red ABS now...

 

I'll put the files on Thingiverse, but note that the STL files are best used for the carbon-wrapped strut bar. The fit on the raw aluminum bar shown here is OK, but could be improved a little. I'll put the openscad files up as well.

[StkmltS]

^ purdy

[Streetlegal]

Next time you print one, snap a photo for me before you dissolve the support material.

 

Yea I can do that for you. I will probably print another tonight hopefully.