Brian3676 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Have installed tons of Timkens on different Subarus. I installed Timkens on my rear about 3 months ago. Working great. I got them from Amazon Also for what its worth, I use Timken bearings on tools at work that run a $1,000,000 a day fab, and if they fail can shut the place down for days. Never had a issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I dont have any of the install. Was too busy slide hammering the living daylights out of the old hubs. I'm not worried about them prematurely failing, but even if they dont "last," i figure i could replace them 3 more times before paying as much as OEM.With the quote above what is your time worth? I bought a set from Carpartswholesale on ebay and they didnt work. When the cruise was set the car pulsated like it couldnt read the wheel speed correctly, which was super annoying. Sent them back and got a refund, went with OEM all is good now.Same here. Interesting...How come the OP is not having any CC issues...?Luck. I dont know, maybe one of them could have been defective. I didnt want to worry about having to change it again even if a new one still didnt work so I just went with OEM to save from any more headaches. I had no luck with Moog or Borg warner fronts. Both installed fine but cruise control stopped working. Sent from my d2lte using TapatalkMy situation, LGT had non-OEM front hubs that were disabling CC ( speed sensor is integrated into hub, not CV end like Imprezas ). Did some research, fronts are definitely hit/miss with more Miss that Hit. Rears don't seem to be as sensitive to non-OEM items in terms of CC disable however. Step over a Dollar to save a Dime IMO, use OEM to save yourself garage and downtime later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I took a chance and learned. Fred beans has OEMS and a very good price. By "good", do you mean the $199 for ONE front hub that I found? Or did I find the wrong part somewhere? I paid less than $199 for all 4 from Detroit Axle, which is why I was going to "just do it". Using OEM parts, it would be something like $650 just in parts for all 4... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced compression Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 rear bearings installed 3 months ago aproximately 4000k miles no problems, i took the risk with these simply because oem bearings are failure prone anyways and these offer some sort of warrantee which i doubt oem offers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 By "good", do you mean the $199 for ONE front hub that I found? Or did I find the wrong part somewhere? I paid less than $199 for all 4 from Detroit Axle, which is why I was going to "just do it". Using OEM parts, it would be something like $650 just in parts for all 4... From now on, its OEM for me. I have had front timkin, and beck arnley that both immediately threw the flashing cc light, and then I figured wth, I'll try the DA cause they are so cheap. Lesson learned, got 10,000 miles out of them. It not with risking thousands of dollars in suspension damage for $65 hub. So far I am an isolated case. Hopefully it will stay that way and you can enjoy your cheap, surgey hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 From now on, its OEM for me. I have had front timkin, and beck arnley that both immediately threw the flashing cc light, and then I figured wth, I'll try the DA cause they are so cheap. Lesson learned, got 10,000 miles out of them. It not with risking thousands of dollars in suspension damage for $65 hub. So far I am an isolated case. Hopefully it will stay that way and you can enjoy your cheap, surgey hubs. I'm not discounting your experience, Jon. In fact, after a couple of problems, I am quite worried, and have about 90% decided to return the DA hubs (I'm still within the 30 day window). I guess I'm just disappointed due to some successful reports that have now turned to "not so successful after all". I didn't know if $199 for one front hub was the "good" price you meant - I was hoping for something more like $120 each. At that price, I'll probably spend some time to clean up my existing hubs to see if I can get rid of the vibrations I'm experiencing, rather than just replacing them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 When replacing hubs one should spend a good deal of time cleaning up the knuckle or the trailing arm mating surfaces where the hub mounts and seats. Failure to do so often results in apparent hub failure. It doesn't take a lot of crud on the mating surface to move the reluctor ring in the hub out of the sweet spot for the wheel speed sensor to work properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I think I paid $120 for my OEM front hubs. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Have installed tons of Timkens on different Subarus. I installed Timkens on my rear about 3 months ago. Working great. I got them from Amazon Also for what its worth, I use Timken bearings on tools at work that run a $1,000,000 a day fab, and if they fail can shut the place down for days. Never had a issuePlease note that the 05-09 ( not sure on 2010+ models ) the big issue with FRONT bearings is the cruise control. Unlike other Scoobie models, Impreza most notably, the reluctor wheel is not mounted to the outer CV joint housing. Whatever the non-OEM models are using for material, mounting, etc is causing numerous cruise control problems ( and in reality Speed Sensor or Vehicle Speed calculation ). As mentioned my research shows people have not had significant issues with aftermarket REAR bearing cartridges short of premature failure ( non Timken ones at least ). Yes Timken is a great company and makes quality stuff, realize that the 4th gen LGT has unique bearing cartridges and have documented problems using non-OEM products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Couldn't have said it better myself. Fronts stick with OEM, rears, DA / Timkin whatever should be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHiway Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Need to replace a rear wheel bearing. Should I do both while I am at it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Need to replace a rear wheel bearing. Should I do both while I am at it? Depending on mileage, yes. You need a 3 arm puller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHiway Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Depending on mileage, yes. You need a 3 arm puller Thanks, just shy of 150 K. Thought that would be the best option. Now, to reply all the posts, OEM or after market? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Has anyone tried "ValuePro" ($55) on RockAuto for rears? The part numbers are the same as Detroit Axle. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2925735&cc=1430733 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Depending on mileage, yes. You need a 3 arm puller Do shops like Autozone lend such parts? Same tool for the fronts? Just to follow-up - I returned the DA front hubs, just to avoid any headaches.. Will be going OEM at some point after I pass SMOG.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Do shops like Autozone lend such parts? Same tool for the fronts? They should. They have a counter placemat with all of the tools they rent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Do shops like Autozone lend such parts? Same tool for the fronts? Just to follow-up - I returned the DA front hubs, just to avoid any headaches.. Will be going OEM at some point after I pass SMOG.. For fronts you just need: 19mm socket - lugnuts 17mm box wrench - caliper bracket bolts 32mm socket - axle nut 14mm socket - hub bolts Possibly 10mm socket - if you want to take out wheel speed sensor, I don't but some do. BFH - depending on if hub is seized on knuckle *corrected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakkalugi Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 i have DA hubs in the front and all is good, moog in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 For fronts you just need: 19mm socket - lugnuts 17mm box wrench - caliper bracket bolts 23mm socket - castle nut 14mm socket - hub bolts Possibly 10mm socket - if you want to take out wheel speed sensor, I don't but some do. BFH - depending on if hub is seized on knuckle 23mm ? I don't recall needing to remove a castle nut, oh you mean 32mm for the axle nut. You break that nut loose before you jack the car up. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 23mm ? I don't recall needing to remove a castle nut, oh you mean 32mm for the axle nut. You break that nut loose before you jack the car up. Yeah sorry, got that one backwards! I always hit it with the impact once the car is in the air, never had trouble that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I had a front pair of hubs from DA which killed my cruise. One failed about a year outside of warranty. Replaced it with OEM and cruise is mostly back but lurches a lot. I had buildup and a lot of wire brushing and I probably have a small gap in there which is the culprit. Good to know. Will probably buy both DA and OEM when the other needs replacing just because I can't see getting it better cleaned and installed than I did the other side and I can't be without car during return shipping if problem persists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 In the last 3 months I've installed a rear Timken and SKF bearing on the same side, and both were bad from the start. The first Timken I personally installed, and it was obvious from the get-go that it was bad. I was worried I had improperly installed it, so... I had my mechanic install a SKF bearing last week and right from the start it was bad too. Incidentally, he said from his observation that I had correctly installed the Timken bearing. After I told my mechanic the bearing seemed to be faulty again last week, he put my wagon up on the rack and put a scope on the bearings, and 3/4 are bad.. I'm going to be fighting the good fight with Rock Auto to replace the Timken bearing even though I ordered it almost 7 months ago and didn't install it till Sept. Then I have to go after Pep Boys for the SKF unit replacement, which shouldn't be a problem. I'm also going to fill out a labor claim with SKF thru Pep Boys to get reimbursed for the labor on the second install. Sucks. The only good bearing I have is the one that was replaced last year, which was a right front and it was aftermarket (can't remember brand), but my CC surges/doesn't work bc of it. C/N : these wheel bearings suck EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander_X Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 It's come time that I need to replace another bearing myself. Is anyone still finding the Detroit Axle's for cheap? The cheapest I'm finding them (I need a rear) is just under $80. I'm fine with that, but I'm always looking to save money if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 It's come time that I need to replace another bearing myself. Is anyone still finding the Detroit Axle's for cheap? The cheapest I'm finding them (I need a rear) is just under $80. I'm fine with that, but I'm always looking to save money if I can. Have you tried ebay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander_X Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 yeah, I came across a few in the under $40 range, but everything in that range came up as no name bearings. There are a couple DA bearings on eBay but they are in the $75+ range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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