rmoore5 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Did you use 8mmX1.25 bolts to walk the rotor off the hub ? Hint, put PB Blaster in the threads and Anti-seize compound on the bolt before you thread them into the old rotor. Also spray the PB round the hub/rotor joint. The bolts I use I put a groove the length of the threads for the rust to collect in. Could of used a tap, but the bolts are cheaper. Definitely use some lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Have a pair of Detroit Axle rears that I will be putting in in a few days and will report back. For $70ish shipped for both I figure I can take that chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 The DA rears work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 The DA rears work fine. Yep mine went on with no issues and have been driving around for the past couple days (400ish miles so far) and have not had one issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I changed the Autozone Duralast front hub unit out for the OEM and the cruise control is back to normal. The Autozone manager accused me of returning the "old" hub unit. The Duralast was on my car for 3 weeks, he apparently has no idea what a 10 year old 260,000 mile, northern Indiana unit actually looks like. Like it was even in 1 piece after removal. I love dealing with non technical people that work in technical fields. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I changed the Autozone Duralast front hub unit out for the OEM and the cruise control is back to normal. The Autozone manager accused me of returning the "old" hub unit. The Duralast was on my car for 3 weeks, he apparently has no idea what a 10 year old 260,000 mile, northern Indiana unit actually looks like. Like it was even in 1 piece after removal. I love dealing with non technical people that work in technical fields. My DA ones are still working perfectly. Over 1k on them so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I just ordered the DA fronts for 85 shipped on amazon. Even if they only last me 5-10k miles that is plenty of time for me to get a set of OEMs on deck. Going to make sure the mating surfaces are properly cleaned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Had a SKF installed on the rear, and a Timken installed on the front two weeks ago. My CC isn't working properly, but I don't really use CC ever. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Maybe I missed them but are the part numbers posted here for the oem front hubs ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Had a SKF installed on the rear, and a Timken installed on the front two weeks ago. My CC isn't working properly, but I don't really use CC ever. Still I think your better off to get it fixed, before the warranty is gone for the bearings. Maybe I missed them but are the part numbers posted here for the oem front hubs ? Call the guy's at Fredbeans or PM "underdog" and he can get you the right part. or, look here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polo735 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Report back in a few weeks Been testing cruise control each day and no issues. DA hubs on both sides in the front. I took no exceptional effort to clean the area while installing either. I did make sure to maintain correct torque specs. I'll report future issues should they arise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 My DA ones are still working perfectly. Over 1k on them so far I lost track of mileage, did the passenger side front last fall and no issues at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Here's the link for FBP. I'll probably order one to have on hand - I'm putting a cheap one on tonight. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/subaru-legacy-gt-front-wheel-bearing.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Can someone please elaborate on the warranty, I know its up to 100k miles but I called 2 dealers and both said I wasn't eligible. 2005 LGT 90k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 It is 100k, but it is only good for 8 years from manufacture. You are unfortunately out of luck. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/96137d1407176076-what-s-wheel-bearings-3rd-generation-2005-9-03-58-08-rear-wheel-bearing-warranty-extension-.pdf The good news is a basic socket set, an impact gun, wire brush, mallet, and a $65 part will get you fixed in a few hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Ah well that sucks. Have sockets and a mallet, know I need a torque wrench, why a wire brush and impact gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polo735 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Impact for Axle nuts Wire brush to clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Or a breaker bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Breaker bar works. I just have a corded electric DeWalt impact gun. I have that tool and ditched the use of the breaker (for most things). Your body will thank you for it. I changed it without a torque wrench (too lazy and you can do it by feel). Axle nut I do reinstall with a breaker bar and a gorilla. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hmm... A corded impact gun would also make taking on and off tires much easier wouldn't it. Please explain how you just did it by feel as I will be doing this soon and would much rather spend the money on an impact gun than a torque wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Or a breaker bar? Breaker bar works. I just have a corded electric DeWalt impact gun. I have that tool and ditched the use of the breaker (for most things). Your body will thank you for it. I changed it without a torque wrench (too lazy and you can do it by feel). Axle nut I do reinstall with a breaker bar and a gorilla. Hmm... A corded impact gun would also make taking on and off tires much easier wouldn't it. Please explain how you just did it by feel as I will be doing this soon and would much rather spend the money on an impact gun than a torque wrench. I busted the axle nut with a 1/2inch Craftsman break bar + the handle from my harbor freight 1.5 ton Aluminum racing jack. It was easier than I expected it to be. I did have a corded impact wrench on hand, just in case. I thought the wheel bearings were fairly sensitive to torque (i.e., wheel bearings will go to shit pretty fast if the axle nut isn't torqued properly). You could probably do it by feel with not too much problem, but I'd say it's not worth the risk when you can rent a torque wrench for free from the auto parts stores. Autozone and Pep Boys had the click-style torque wrenches that go up to 250 ft lbs. Advaned only had the beam style that goes up to 150 (too low for the axle nut...I believe they're supposed to be at something like 162 ft lbs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBear Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 And 5lbs off in either direction means exponentially less life out of the bearing. And anyone who says they can feel the difference between 162 and 167 is either full of shit, or the next step in human evolution we've all been waiting for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Rent the torque wrench. Gorilla is the factory Subaru method. They are free if you rent them at AutoZone and return within 90 days (as with all their tools). I don't think we are talking about the same torqued part. I didn't torque the new hub down to the control arm per the spec. You do want to torque the axle nut to preload the bearing. While you can rent a torque wrench, if they haven't been stored properly, they may not do what they say they do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Isnt it 137 on the axle nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I don't think we are talking about the same torqued part. I didn't torque the new hub down to the control arm per the spec. You do want to torque the axle nut to preload the bearing. Ohhh, OK. Yeah, I didn't use the torque wrench on those bolts either. I just did those by feel. The axle nut is what I used a torque wrench for. While you can rent a torque wrench, if they haven't been stored properly, they may not do what they say they do. Very true! When possible I always get two: one from Pep Boys and one from AutoZone. They're right across the street from each other. They typically do a good job of storing them correctly (making sure the tension is release on the click-type torque wrench) but I'm not sure they ever actually check the calibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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