JayInVA Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Isnt it 137 on the axle nut? Front hub axle nut is 162 ft-lb. Rear hub axle nut is 177 ft-lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 What is this free renting that you speak of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 What is this free renting that you speak of? Go to AutoZone or Pep Boys and ask about their tool rental/loaner tool program. They have a list of tools they'll rent you (hub/axle puller and torque wrench you'll need for this project...both stores should have both). You pay a deposit (the full price of the tool) and when you bring it back they refund it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 You should also be using the torque wrench for the lug nuts too. remember to use anti-seize on all threads. FWIW, if your going to be doing more work on your cars over the years, invest in a decent air compressor and air tools from Harbor Fright or Sears for the compressor. Watch for sales at Sears. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polo735 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I picked up a Chicago electric impact wrench from harbor freight for 40 bucks with coupon. It zipped those axle nuts right off. Replace those axle nuts, do not reuse. Tightening by feel will technically get this completed; I would only feel comfortable driving a car knowing everything was torqued to spec. My method for removing the hub assembly was to put the rotor on backward, and hammer on it until the hub comes out. I had an old rotor in the garage for this purpose. I wouldn't have felt comfortable putting a rotor with sledgehammer dings back on the car. Like others have stated, there are other options like a slide hammer or a puller tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 For the axle nut I have used the "my weight X the length of my breaker bar" method of torque calculation. The autozone items you need are these 2 : Make sure you get this puller : If (most likely) the spindle pulls out the use the mounting bolts of the hub unit to attach the wheel puller to the casting like this : Also pickup 3 nuts to fit your wheel studs to use with the puller, I think they are 12mm x 1.25 thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 wow thanks for all the info guys! Never knew Autozone rented that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 wow thanks for all the info guys! Never knew Autozone rented that way. Now all those deferred car projects can be completed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 Just did my front driver's side with the DA hub, drove around the neighborhood and all seems okay. I'll get it on the freeway tomorrow and see how the cruise control does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Just replaced my front pass. bearing with a DA one. So far so good. Fixed my humming and whirring issue, and my cruise control works fine. They do have some pretty terrible reviews on Google, I don't know how long the wheel bearing I replaced will last, but it felt like a pretty quality unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I just rolled over 8k on a front passenger DA and my cruise still works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I'm only at 50 miles, I hardly drive my car About 20 miles on cruise control and not an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDZ32 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Installed whatever brand reman half shafts and two front Timken hubs, picked up the hubs for 105.00 apiece at Party Authority, So far no complaints, the half shafts were in retched shape so I'm glad to be rid of them. But Timken makes great stuff, no complaints with them ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Just so you guys know, DA bearings do trip wheel speed sensor codes from what i'm seeing. Even though my cruise control is operational and functions as it should, the GT's built in code reader shows a C0115 fault code, which equates to something along the lines of 'ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal).' The vac pics states that this code is resulting from one of the following • Defective ABS wheel speed sensor signal (noise, abnormal signal, etc.) • Defective magnetic encoder • When a wheel is turned freely for a long time I must note again, I have no issue with cruise control, though I know some have, and I for the life of me can't figure out why cruise still works while the fault code is active. I'm assuming this has something to do with the magnetic encoder seeing something other than an OEM bearing, but it still being within the threshold of operation. Thoughts? Anyone with aftermarket bearings care to run their built in code scanner to see if this is a reoccurring fault? http://i.imgur.com/2RjMYkc.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Just so you guys know, DA bearings do trip wheel speed sensor codes from what i'm seeing. Even though my cruise control is operational and functions as it should, the GT's built in code reader shows a C0115 fault code, which equates to something along the lines of 'ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal).' The vac pics states that this code is resulting from one of the following • Defective ABS wheel speed sensor signal (noise, abnormal signal, etc.) • Defective magnetic encoder • When a wheel is turned freely for a long time I must note again, I have no issue with cruise control, though I know some have, and I for the life of me can't figure out why cruise still works while the fault code is active. I'm assuming this has something to do with the magnetic encoder seeing something other than an OEM bearing, but it still being within the threshold of operation. Thoughts? Anyone with aftermarket bearings care to run their built in code scanner to see if this is a reoccurring fault? Could you feel the variation of the speed? It is very slight. It was small enough not to be seen on the speedo but felt in the seat. I could also observe the throttle varying about 3% on my AP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Just so you guys know, DA bearings do trip wheel speed sensor codes from what i'm seeing. Even though my cruise control is operational and functions as it should, the GT's built in code reader shows a C0115 fault code, which equates to something along the lines of 'ABS wheel speed sensor malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal).' The vac pics states that this code is resulting from one of the following • Defective ABS wheel speed sensor signal (noise, abnormal signal, etc.) • Defective magnetic encoder • When a wheel is turned freely for a long time I must note again, I have no issue with cruise control, though I know some have, and I for the life of me can't figure out why cruise still works while the fault code is active. I'm assuming this has something to do with the magnetic encoder seeing something other than an OEM bearing, but it still being within the threshold of operation. Thoughts? Anyone with aftermarket bearings care to run their built in code scanner to see if this is a reoccurring fault? How do you run the built in code scanner? I didn't know we even had one. I'll check mine tonight. Does the code stay stored on there like the check engine light would be until you clear it? My AP never showed any other codes but I'm assuming that won't read those type of codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 05-06 have the built in reader. I don't think 07-09 do. Watch someone prove me wrong. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ check out the service manual. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 05-06 have the built in reader. I don't think 07-09 do. Watch someone prove me wrong. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ check out the service manual. Ah ok. I'll have to check it out. I don't have any codes when I hook it up to my AP or to any of the diagnostic tools where I work. I'll do some more digging but I haven't had any issues still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Actually, I think I may have. This car is so surge-y that it's tough to pinpoint exactly why the car does what it does. I'll have to take the car out and log it with the tactrix. I do notice the car sometimes surge a bit in 3rd gear while cruising, it's very slight, I never attributed that to the aftermarket bearing, or even thought twice about it. I'll let you know when I pull a log. Streetlegal, you pull the code by connecting the white test connectors in the fuse panel (they should be taped up, disconnected wires, similar to the test connectors for ecu flashing.) Like Max Capacity said, you may not have them, i'm not sure. Then you connect them, put the car into accessory (OFF>ON>ACCESSORY) and press the odo button. P codes are CEL codes, C codes are sensor codes, they don't generally throw a CEL and there's no way to clear them that i'm aware of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Actually, I think I may have. This car is so surge-y that it's tough to pinpoint exactly why the car does what it does. I'll have to take the car out and log it with the tactrix. I do notice the car sometimes surge a bit in 3rd gear while cruising, it's very slight, I never attributed that to the aftermarket bearing, or even thought twice about it. I'll let you know when I pull a log. Streetlegal, you pull the code by connecting the white test connectors in the fuse panel (they should be taped up, disconnected wires, similar to the test connectors for ecu flashing.) Like Max Capacity said, you may not have them, i'm not sure. Then you connect them, put the car into accessory (OFF>ON>ACCESSORY) and press the odo button. P codes are CEL codes, C codes are sensor codes, they don't generally throw a CEL and there's no way to clear them that i'm aware of. I don't have those connections in my 07. They changed it so all I need to do is hook up the obd port. I'll scan it at work today and see if I have any codes. I haven't noticed any surging though. I'll pay more attention on the way home today and log with AP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 My standard OBD2 reader doesn't pick up C codes (I use a ScanGaugeII) If you have a professional code scanner it'll probably pick it up. Just a heads up if you don't see anything, since it is a sensor fault code, I assume you'll need a shop tool, or, I don't know where you work, but I assume from the sound of it, you probably have access to a proper scan tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 didn't think the 05s had the built-in code reader either and I can't find those connectors on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 didn't think the 05s had the built-in code reader either and I can't find those connectors on mine. I thought it was ONLY the '05s, not the '06s. However, I have never tested it on my '05.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 didn't think the 05s had the built-in code reader either and I can't find those connectors on mine. I have an 05, they have them. You might have to dig up in there a bit, they're usually taped together to part of the wiring harness. This is in the interior fuse panel on the drivers side under the mirror adjustment. They're a clear-ish white color. I can grab a picture for you tomorrow if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 I have an 05, they have them. You might have to dig up in there a bit, they're usually taped together to part of the wiring harness. This is in the interior fuse panel on the drivers side under the mirror adjustment. They're a clear-ish white color. I can grab a picture for you tomorrow if you'd like. yeah if you don't mind I would like a pic. I took a flashlight and looked but didn't see anything. Didn't wanna remove the lower dash since it's a pain and I gave up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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