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Wasp build Thread


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I knew you'd be thrilled about the recent progress of this thread, Boxkitty.

 

I luv your eternal optimism, even in face of overwhelming criticism and utter failure to comprehend the depth of the shite you're standing in. If progress on the motor was moving at the same rate as this thread, you'd have a rotated turbo pushing 700hp.

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You too waspy. Grow up, m kay.

 

I might poke fun and issue some occasional sarcasm during our random bickering... but, theres a significant difference when "someone" ALWAYS has to post something negative or ridiculous, backed with a truckload of malicious intent. At least I make an attempt to contribute something useful. Not to mention, for someone that claims to dislike Laff79 so much, you sure seem to thank him for most of his posts and protect him every chance you get. Get upset as usual... Just saying.

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"Arrr matey... right you are Captain D!"

 

I had to special order an 11x1.25 Tap, so i can clear the threads of bead blasting residue and bolt the heads back on. I also ordered the cam wrenches, but the exhaust wrench was wrong (of course, because this is MY build, and nothings ever easy). I sent the E-wrench back today via UPS. AWD Motorsports said that they would ship the new wrench as soon as they got the tracking number for this one. Hopefully they get that today. It's coming from Coral Springs, FL so i should recieve the replacement this week, hopefully (as well as the new tap). After that the motor goes in, i can finally turn the key and watch it explode. Goodtimes, FML.

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I'm sure there would be a lot more to discuss if I had decided to do all the work myself instead of sending it out. Since there is some down time until I get my tools in the mail, what shall we discuss? Pogo sticks?
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Let's discuss what you should have done in the first place.

 

Plan ahead. Know your limitations. Ask around, see what local resources are available.

 

Sorry just thinking out loud.

 

I'll go :hide:

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Let's discuss what you should have done in the first place.

 

Plan ahead. Know your limitations. Ask around, see what local resources are available.

 

Sorry just thinking out loud.

 

I'll go :hide:

 

lol...have you read thetoad's troll thread? This is the continuation, except in English.

 

I'm sure the thinking part involved lots of beer.

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I did research, but mistakes are somehow being spawned within mistakes. I've been through worse.

Questions for Max: I ordered the intake & exhaust cam tools like I stated before. The exhaust tool sent was wrong, the correct one won't be here until December 5th. I phoned the local Subaru dealership and spoke to a friend who said that the techs don't even own those tools and that they put the motors together just fine without them. How do would I go about doing that?

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Not sure, my machine shop borrowed the dealers tools when you did my engine.

 

If you have the old timing belt, you may be able to use that to hold the gears in place.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The cam tools are a piece of junk, all you need is an old timing belt and a vise grip. I'll post a pick of how you can do it with both of them when I find them.

 

Cut the old timing belt so you make 1 long belt. Then wrap the belt around the cam gear and the crank gear, over lapping the belt. Then take the vise grips and clamp down on the belt closest to the cam gear, making sure the belt is nice an tight between the crank and cam. Now you can tighten or loosen the cam bolt with out it slipping. It may take a few tries before you get it right.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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One of my friends is a Subie Master Tech, he said the same thing... but that the tools are the safest way to go. (Which is why i don't understand why the dealerships don't use them???) Weird, huh?
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I've read several members buying that tool and had no good luck with it, most of them revert to the belt & vise grips.

 

To add, when doing this always make sure the crank gear marks are align. You don't want to damage any of the valves if the cam gear slips out of the belt.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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LOL, you guys...

 

 

Wasp, set it up just like F1's pic, but much tighter. I put the big vice grip much closer to the cam gear, then used a second close to the crank gear to tighten the whole works up. Torque the cam gear bolt down per the FSM. Repeat x4.

 

Rotate the engine so the timing mark on the crank pulley is at 12 o'clock. Use some kind of clamp to hold the new timing belt on the crank pulley in the correct position. The dotted line on the new belt should line up with the timing mark on the pulley.

 

Rotate the cams on the right (as you're looking at the engine) side so the yellow timing marks are at ~10:00 for the intake and ~1:00 for the exhaust. Line up the timing mark on the belt with the mark on the pulley and clamp that in place. There will be some slack. Put the belt around the exhaust pulley and pull - rotating the cams and removing the slack you left up top. I may have used my 10mm allen on the exhaust pulley to turn it. Check to see if the exhaust marks line up, you may have to adjust a tooth or two either direction.

 

Once you get the right side done, the left is easy.

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Thanks TL... I think i pulled out the "Top 20 list of mistakes to make on a subie build" and followed it intently, checking them off one by one from beginning till.... Christ where the F is the end... :(

 

SBT no need to insist on pushing me towards the barrel of a gun... i'm already there.

 

...ugh.

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