Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Wasp build Thread


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 919
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Yes roll... My bad teach. Neil, I just called your shop to speak with you and no and no answer? You people open? I had a couple if question about the break in tune.

 

 

They're probably on the dyno. I work offsite so couldn't tell you exactly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just drive it normal through town for an hour. Do not go on the freeway and go a steady speed, make sure you accelerate and decelerate for the 1st hour. Then you'll be read for the data log or tune.
My wife's balls are delicious.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay... so my block and new oil pan are refinished and painted... ready to start putting it back together. I need to know exactly what I need for tools... and why?

 

I've researched and found 3: Both the Intake/Exhaust wrenches, and there is a half moon magnetized sprocket locking tool? My heads were never disassembled... just degreased and jet washed. I am however replacing all the cam bolts (so it'll be easier to disassemble next summer when I build the heads). Which tools do I need to reassemble so I can bolt it on? Please explain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay... so my block and new oil pan are refinished and painted... ready to start putting it back together. I need to know exactly what I need for tools... and why?

 

I've researched and found 3: Both the Intake/Exhaust wrenches, and there is a half moon magnetized sprocket locking tool? My heads were never disassembled... just degreased and jet washed. I am however replacing all the cam bolts (so it'll be easier to disassemble next summer when I build the heads). Which tools do I need to reassemble so I can bolt it on? Please explain.

 

you know there's a whole thread on how to do this? To quote someone else, have you tried search yet, nooblet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you don't paint the matting surface of the block and tranny, it's a ground path.

 

As well as some other matting surfaces.

 

The money your saving on not having the heads rebuilt, and the money your spending on tools... why don't you just have a machine shop do the heads and assemble them on the block ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ummm, Don't you mean Metric?!?! Isn't most the bolts on the Subie metric size? Standard (non-metric) is for the older American cars.

 

Really? I could have sworn you said standard. He probably needs a full set of tools anyway. Sears has a sale on socket sets at 50% off.

 

Bring drama to this thread as it has been lacking lately...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The machine shop has done enough. Matting surfaces... Explain.!

 

matting surfaces is commonly used in the creation of picture framing. mating surfaces has to do with the contacting surfaces of 2 metal parts. A machine shop (had they done their job properly) would ensure the mating surfaces are flat, allowing for minimal gasket material to achieve a good seal when properly torqued.

 

Honestly, if this is your level of questions, you may be money ahead to have the machine shop do the joining of the heads & the block.

 

With regards your torque wrench, be sure to get one that allows setting the torque value (like these http://www.craftsman.com/wrenches-torque-wrenches/b-1305567 - avoid the beam style). Also, follow the tighening sequence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wasp, with all these questions, are you sure your up to the task ?

 

Sorry I don't know your back ground. You may have lots of mechanical ability, I just don't know what you've done in the past.

 

I'll give you credit for getting this far, you must have some knowledge.

 

I have learned sometimes it's better to pay the man, so you know the job is done correctly, after all, its only going to get colder in the coming month's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really? I could have sworn you said standard. He probably needs a full set of tools anyway. Sears has a sale on socket sets at 50% off.

 

Bring drama to this thread as it has been lacking lately...

 

:lol: When I said standard, I meant just a set of "normal" tools. No specialized tools are needed to put back the motor.

My wife's balls are delicious.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:lol: When I said standard, I meant just a set of "normal" tools. No specialized tools are needed to put back the motor.

 

I know, you know, I'm not sure he knows. :lol: At the rate the questions are coming in, I figured the SAE/Metric question would come along sooner or later. As he brings a certain flavor to my threads, I'm trying to spice up his.

 

Curious why the 12point 12mm, instead of 6point 12mm socket? I always try to use the least pointed (?) socket for a given nut/bolt. Figure when I round them off, I'll use a higher pointed socket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When it comes to high torque bolts, I always match the socket points with the bolts. I've learn the hard way in the past when rounding the heads off with the incorrect sockets.

 

One thing to add, the cam gear bolts are a B!TCH to take out. I went through 2 allen sockets before I was able to track down a solid allen socket that wouldn't strip out inside the socket itself.:mad:

My wife's balls are delicious.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing to add, the cam gear bolts are a B!TCH to take out. I went through 2 allen sockets before I was able to track down a solid allen socket that wouldn't strip out inside the socket itself.:mad:

:yeahthat:

 

I had to use an extractor

http://i.imgur.com/wgifRqXl.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When it comes to high torque bolts, I always match the socket points with the bolts. I've learn the hard way in the past when rounding the heads off with the incorrect sockets.

 

One thing to add, the cam gear bolts are a B!TCH to take out. I went through 2 allen sockets before I was able to track down a solid allen socket that wouldn't strip out inside the socket itself.:mad:

 

Snap-on Turbo socket + 1/2" air gun + tap it on, spin it out. Done.

 

I have all new cam bolts. The matting surfaces were also left unpainted... and i have plenty of help. I'm positive i could could put this motor together by myself... but i just don't have the time. The majority of the work is being done by a good friend of mine. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use