Chris GTO TT Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Ok, we'll see how it goes. This thing makes me as nervous as a chihuahua. Same here and I haven't had to rebuild my motor:lol: 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KBGRIZZLY64 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 My cp's were noisy and still are noisy at 3500 miles just fyi. Priorities change when car parts come into the equation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 I hope "underdog" wakes up soon and chimes in about whats in the filter. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 How much runtime/mileage on that? Out of curiosity, what brand filter? That doesn't look too bad, but I have never seen that much debris on a new build filter. It doesn't look like wear-induced debris, so I would guess it is left over from the machining phase. Maybe do another 20 minute warmup and oil change before going on the road. I know it sucks "wasting" 5 qts. of break-in oil and a filter, but it is relatively cheap insurance and a good diagnostic tool. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 That's a couple short idle runs, and a couple idle/short drives. I'd say only about 4 miles. Filter is a Mazda Tokyo Roki. I'll do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 I've never seen one with the cap swaged in incorrectly. Unless I am seeing things wrong in the pic? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Looks like the machining debris were not cleaned out all the way. Thats why I always do a start up and short drive and change the oil, make sure to get all that out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 I've never seen one with the cap swaged in incorrectly. Unless I am seeing things wrong in the pic?Not sure. I did have a new one cut open (pics in one of the filter threads), but I don't think I snapped a pic of the bottom of the can. Looks like the machining debris were not cleaned out all the way. Thats why I always do a start up and short drive and change the oil, make sure to get all that out Hoping so. I'm tempted to pull an OCV and/or turbo filter and check if anything made it through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 After my 1st oil change I inspected the filter and it has some metal flakes like yours, but not as much. Just follow Underdogs break in process and you should be alright. Fyi, it's been over 2 years on my rebuild motor and still going strong. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenster Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Hope all turns out Groovy for you! I learned a lot of great info in the past 20 post. My start up should not be too far away. Waiting on a few little parts still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Ok, dumped the oil after a nice warm up. Looking worlds better. http://i.imgur.com/7klv5Ls.jpg I'll put a few miles on it tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Excellent! Show the first one to your machine shop and tell them to pull all the core plugs next time! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Just drove ~25 miles. Not gonna lie, felt pretty epic. http://i.imgur.com/wj7VA1m.jpg It was not without a little excitement though, ABS was acting funny and then I got this code. http://i.imgur.com/A0aIq8M.jpg And I think I have a bad wheel bearing. #aintcare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Good job, did it feel like a lightning bolt came down and touched the tip? For that code. You say your abs was acting up. Happen to be inside the wheel wells at all during your swap? Check to make sure both front speed sensor harnesses are good. Bad bearing would cause an erroneous signal due to the reluctor being in the bearing. Also may wanna just check the main harness connector coming up from the trans under the tmic. ABP great color! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Thanks! I was really only in the wheel wells to swap to my summer wheels and tires and I was thinking the issues might be related too. I know I've seen wheel bearing recommendations on here before, time to do a little searchin. I know for a fact the front right ball joint has a torn boot (because I did it ), maybe I'll do that at the same time. Drove my loaner-mobile again today so I could drop it off at my mechanic for new tires. In the 9 months I've been driving this car I've had one flat and two belts break. Definitely needs tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Use a OEM hub for the fronts, get it from FB or Heuberger. Watch the rust on the ball joint. It my be cheaper in the long run to buy a $114 spindle. I believe they come with the ball joint. I think I talk about it in my click here link about late May of that year. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 The OEM hubs are a little spendy. I'm reading through this thread now: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/success-non-oem-wheel-hub-bearing-units-221269.html?t=221269 I can't find anywhere that they come with the ball joint, I might try to replace the ball joint itself first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Found this, http://www.buyautoparts.com/plabuynow.asp?year=2005&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&partname=Wheel_Hub_Assembly&partno=92-00569_AN&gclid=CjwKEAjwjd2pBRDB4o_ymcieoAQSJABm4ego9fsHFzNGWh3cMOrh6Z5a__wmYZQ5geAcRzvbV35JzBoCu0zw_wcB Hey, PM underdog and see what he can get for a price for you. Wow, Part Number: 28373AG01A hub Right MSRP Core ? Online Price $265.95 $0.00 $199.46 What happened, I paid $120 for mine from my local dealership. Has there been a recent update to JmP's sticky up top ? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html post #66 Here's one from the link from JmP, $32.00 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/GMB-799-0299-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B004QHNBH2/?tag=viglink20901-20]Amazon.com: GMB 799-0299 Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame] 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Whelp, I think I found the problem. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89jNjassoiA]Uhh - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I'd say so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Dealer wants ~$270 for a hub, so that's not happening. Going to call around town and see what I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I just bought two new OEM front hubs from my dealer. Paid $189 each - that included tax. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I got one from Autozone (Dura Gold) for $80. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Ok, so I have a few options in town: Raybestos: $120 SKF: $179 Oreilly: $118 BCA/NTN: $165 GSP: $60 For the price and considering the other options, I'm going to do the GSP. 2 year warranty, so we'll see how it goes. If I had more time I'd probably source an OEM or Moog or Detroit Axle. I'll probably order an OEM hub as a spare at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 You can't use a Moog on the front, trust me. Unless something has changed in 3 years. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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