New Short Block Time...

[Turkeylord]

1100 miles so far *knock on wood*

 

Still have a few things to take care of before I start tuning with Bren.

 

I did cross one thing off the list yesterday - installed my AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor.

 

Thanks to Underdog I was able to find a mating connector to the stock MAP sensor plug and build a plug-and-play adapter harness.

 

Here is the plug. It's part number CONN-75764p at Ballenger Motorsports.

http://i.imgur.com/LWWSqtI.jpg

 

I also ordered their part number CONN-85563, which is a pigtail with the Packard connector that fits the AEM sensor.

 

Here is the adapter assembled and sleeved in paracord sheath.

http://i.imgur.com/w53KWFa.jpg

 

 

Plugged it in, flashed the calibrated map, and it fired right up.

 

Next up I need to locate a vac leak.

[Turkeylord]

Gonna replace my TB hose clamps.

 

Looked at a bunch of different options, but I think I like these best:

http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/

 

TB hose clamps ~ 3.125" (w/o booties)

GFB outlet clamp ~ 1.375" (1.35" measured) (might do this one even though it's not under much pressure)

[Turkeylord]

Found the TB clamps locally, look pretty beefy.

 

http://i.imgur.com/GO9uj4F.jpg

[heiche]

ooh i like those. used them once a long time ago - set'em and forget'em. they never seemed to need to re-tightening, where some others did.

[Turkeylord]

Looking for a little help here...

 

I was all set to buy a used set of heads from someone semi-local when I discovered they are D25 heads instead of B25.

 

I'm thinking that's a bad combo with my 9.0:1 pistons.

 

I've been looking for heads for a long time, and these are in really good shape. I'd hate to pass them up but I think I'd have to swap out for the lower CR pistons...

 

 

UGH. Help?

[Max Capacity]

I would think that one of the better tuners can tune for that combination.

 

Piston to valve clearance is the only concern.

 

Cometic can make you a thicker HG just call them. Back in our high HP Honda day's, there was a time, I was on a first name bases with them.

[m sprank]

Not that big of a deal. You will be in the 9.5/9.6:1 range (off the top of my head).

[Turkeylord]

That sounds about right.

 

Ok, I will go ahead with them, and maybe look into thicker head gaskets.

 

 

Thanks!

[StkmltS]

Maybe I'm an idiot for even asking, but how much of a risk would it be to use two standard gaskets instead of one thicker one? Wouldn't a MLS gasket seal against another gasket just as well as it would against the aluminum block/heads?

[seanyb505]

Looking for a little help here...

 

I was all set to buy a used set of heads from someone semi-local when I discovered they are D25 heads instead of B25.

 

I'm thinking that's a bad combo with my 9.0:1 pistons.

 

I've been looking for heads for a long time, and these are in really good shape. I'd hate to pass them up but I think I'd have to swap out for the lower CR pistons...

 

 

UGH. Help?

 

What pistons do you have? I have a stock ej257 from Subaru, and the d25 heads. Tuning alliance has been the tuner since day one, I don't notice any problems and he hasn't mentioned that combo is a problem for my situation.

 

Be careful you get the correct passenger side hard oil lines. There was a switch around 2010-2012. The parts catalogs should list proper parts.

[Turkeylord]

9.0:1 CP Forged, 99.75

 

Thanks, I'll check it out.

[Max Capacity]

Maybe I'm an idiot for even asking, but how much of a risk would it be to use two standard gaskets instead of one thicker one? Wouldn't a MLS gasket seal against another gasket just as well as it would against the aluminum block/heads?

 

IMO not a good idea. You wouldn't use two exhaust gaskets, would you.

 

And those are easy to replace.

 

The HG is designed to seal against a flat surface, another HG is not flat.

[1-3-2-4]

Well FWIW I called Blackstone and he said they can't really give me anything useful till about 1000 miles. I asked it I should change at 500 and run it till 1000 and send in a sample and he said that that sounded like a good plan.

Hmm well that news to me I guess I will do the same after my build is done I feel I'm going to be very anal.. I feel like buying like 5 5Qt jugs and changing the oil ever 200 miles.

[Max Capacity]

IMO if the engine makes it the first 100 miles...you should be fine.

 

I think you know the first oil and filter change comes after the first 15 minutes of run time, while the car is still on jacks in the driveway.

 

The next oil change I think was like 150 miles or may be I did 500 miles, then after 1000 more miles, then after 2000 miles then I went to Amsoil 5w-40. Sent a sample to the lab after that was in there 7000 miles. It was so long ago, its hard to remember.

 

I don't think people recommend to many oil changes like your thinking.

 

m sprank, may be a good person to ask.

[Turkeylord]

Does this check out?

 

 

Using data from here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23769977#post23769977

 

and the CP catalog. CP model SC7426

 

 

 

Cometic's C4574-056 is .056" thick, which looks like it would bring me back down to ~8.9:1 which makes me feel better, lol.

 

[BarManBean]

^^Those certainly look like some numbers to me!

[SBT]

.056 = 1.4224mm not sure it that matters to the calcs.

 

And there is this: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

 

May be for motorcycles given the K1200 references, but another alternative.

[Turkeylord]

.056 = 1.4224mm not sure it that matters to the calcs.

 

And there is this: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

 

May be for motorcycles given the K1200 references, but another alternative.

Good call, that makes a slight difference, I get 8.882...

I'll try that one.

[Turkeylord]

Seems to agree pretty well.

 

[SBT]

So you're in the sweet spot. Is there something else you're looking for?

[Turkeylord]

Nope, I think we're in good shape if I do the thick HG.

 

I'll probably stick with the HTA68, was considering going back to a 16G or VF52.

[SBT]

Behind the KB HHes, correct?

[m sprank]

IMO if the engine makes it the first 100 miles...you should be fine.

 

I think you know the first oil and filter change comes after the first 15 minutes of run time, while the car is still on jacks in the driveway.

 

The next oil change I think was like 150 miles or may be I did 500 miles, then after 1000 more miles, then after 2000 miles then I went to Amsoil 5w-40. Sent a sample to the lab after that was in there 7000 miles. It was so long ago, its hard to remember.

 

I don't think people recommend to many oil changes like your thinking.

 

m sprank, may be a good person to ask.

 

My start up procedure.

 

Use starter to crank engine (no fuel) until oil pressure is reached (lamp off). Cycle starter so as not to overheat it. No fuel! You do not want to hydro lock. I disconnect the fuel pump fuse (or relay) when I pull the engine.

 

Check for leaks. Connect fuel.

 

Prime fuel pump several times. Check for leaks.

 

Start up. First 30 seconds -1 minute check for leaks. Check data.

 

While logging MULTIPLE parameters, run at 2700-3000rpm for 15 minutes.

 

Let engine cool completely (may take overnight)

 

Oil and filter change.

 

First "test" drive is 5-7 miles. No more than 40% throttle, no more than 5-7 psi. Alternate -short burst and then engine break. Varying gear and load.

 

After drive let engine cool completely. May take overnight. Check for leaks. Check all fluid levels.

 

Now the "break in" driving begins. I tend to put 150-250 miles on the engine prior to handing it over. I perform the 100 miles oil change for the customer.

 

I will post this section directly from my warranty statement:

Recommended break in should be 3000 miles driven under normal conditions, do not use synthetic oils during break-in, use good quality multi-grade oils such as Motul 10/40 break-in oil, Valvoline or Castrol. We recommend an oil change with filter at 100, 500 and 1000, 2000, and 3000 miles. At 3000 miles you can switch

to synthetic oils if you choose to. For the first 500 – 1000 miles try to avoid long periods of time at the same RPM such as freeway driving at 3500 RPM for 30 minutes. You should vary through the RPM range. Stock boost is fine but you should stay away from high boost/high load situations.

[Turkeylord]

Behind the KB HHes, correct?

 

Ha, I wish. Not in the budget unfortunately. Stock manifolds. COBB cast UP & COBB carted bellmouth DP. Stock cat-back.

 

 

Thanks Mike, great advice.

[BarManBean]

m sprank, if you actually do that for every build that comes through your shop, good on you. Sounds great.