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Nonamedude

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Everything posted by Nonamedude

  1. Dangit. Well that would explain a lot. It looks like tyf001 is not dual mass and rallysport has it so I'll just run down there sometime this week. I got the bolts at least! I had a hard time finding clutches honestly for some reason. A lot of places don't like to list having anything for the obxt but have stuff for the lgt. Thanks for catching that for me guys. I was real bummed when my old pressure plate was the same exedy one. I knew I was gonna have to pull that flywheel back off. I found the pcv valve at least today haha.
  2. Well I have a new issue. My clutch pressure plate doesn't seem to want to line up? Or I don't understand how it works maybe. I got the excedy fjk1001 clutch kit and the excedy FWSBL02FF flywheel, both of which show as working for this car. If I understand, the pressure plate should bolt to the flywheel right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I'm going with connector as well. Here's what mine looks like. 08 OBXT 5mt stock. Looks like they cut the line too short for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Yep it's the same. Lower is coolant but I thought maybe upper was an oil return. If it's part of the pcv system though maybe that's why it looked oily. I don't have super great pictures of all that and it's all just running everywhere. So what's the point of all that? There are 4 hoses pulling vacuum on the heads and at least two of those are connected to the block. Honestly I need to figure out where the pcv when goes. I don't remember pulling it off.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. So I've spent forever trying to figure this out. There are three hoses here. One to each valve cover and one to the block itself. Are these coolant or vacuum or what? They are rock solid. My best guess so far is 99071AC220 and 99071AC230 and I can't find the third. Assuming they are vacuum but they don't appear to be dry inside. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Outback-25L-TURBO-5MT-XT-Limited/_54102_6030705/WATER-PIPE-1-WATER-PIPE/B13-036-03.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. The stock top feeds for 07+ have a slightly different flow rate. Like 30cc higher. Not sure how much a difference that would be, but it's a thing.
  7. Had a little time this afternoon but not much. Thought it'd be enough to do the mudflaps. It wasn't of course. I had to cut off the bolts on the one side I worked on. And idk how on earth there is this much dirt. I ended up dropping the side skirts and knocking a bunch out of the upper part of the fender flare. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Hmm interesting. That makes me think twisting it might break the seal. I think I'm going to try to leave it as is. That flange doesn't really do much and I can still access the bolt hole. I'll try remounting everything and if the turbo goes on without issue then great. If not I'll deal with it then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. For sure. Certainly wasn't trying to dissuade you. I thought all the lgt had side feed at first and wasn't upset to find out I had top feeds. Sounds like you're on the right track then though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yea I think he said in my rebuild thread that he was at like 95% load on the injectors or maybe the pump and was around 270 or 280. I'd have to look for the exact. My comment was mostly why move to a top feed. I know the side feed have some problems with gumming up but the cost of the conversion doesn't seem worth it until you have at least vf52, catless UP, better downpipe, upgraded tmic, and of course a tune. But that even if you have all that you can still do pretty well on stock high mileage side mount injectors. Mostly just seems like you should already have a lot of money and time in the car and if you've got that much money and time, you'd likely know what you need for the conversion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Unfortunately I won't be able to play off the sales like that this year as I'll need snow tires by January although I don't need summer wheels in any time frame. I have looked a bunch there though. It seems like there are many more options in the stock 225/55/17 than any other size. I've also looked at having 18" summer wheels but don't know I want to give up sidewall depth when I'm out in the desert. I'll already be giving up some compliance when I add a bigger rear sway. I figure the 95% on road driving is worth the trade off. A lot of this was I guess mostly trying to figure out if there were anythings I was missing or why the lgt and obxt have different offsets. But it looks like stock offset +/- 10(ish) with 7-8" wheels is gonna be the answer for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. What's your turbo and fueling setup? From what I can tell the fueling is a far down the road upgrade. I know max capacity is running nearly 300hp and a vf52 without any real issues on stock fueling. But yea if you're doing it, you're gonna have to buy tgv so might as well get a deleted one while you're at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Well they aren't exactly easy things to see, but the 08 and later (and maybe the 07) use top feeds so you could just use those parts. You'd need injectors, fuel rails, tgvs. I think that's it but search around. This is a common mod and you should be able to find a walk through. Are you planning to move to a bigger turbo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Oh that does help a lot. Think I'll try to stick around stock offset then. I'd imagine that lgt calipers would be fine unless you brought the offset in a lot since they fit under the stock 17s. I like the brz wheels quite a bit. Good to know that's an option. I generally prefer the looks of oe wheels so it's too bad the forester and and brz sti wheels go for so much. And the others seem to be quite heavy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Check out the vacation pix. There should be some for each year. That will give you the exact gearing for each model. That's where I pulled my info from Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. My understanding is that the biggest failure of the obxt suspension is the rear sway bar. Swap that out with a bigger one is the best bang for the buck and should get you close to the stock handling of an lgt wagon as I believe all wagons have problems with the rear struts. As far as the more subtle differences, well those are hairs I'm not in tune enough to split. And there are a number of threads about lowering, and I believe you can swap in stock lgt stuff without issue. So you'd just need some kyb struts and springs. But I can't be sure on that. New rear sway bar is about $250. There is a set of lightly used koni yellows for $500 in the classifieds. You'd need another set of springs. Idk what other modifications you'd need but thats maybe 1k. There's some jdm sti stuff for 1300 used. But we aren't considering bushings anywhere but am lgt would need those too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. So definitely a different transmission. I'd guess the lgt has the type ra gears and the 2.5i does not. I believe the lgt uses the same transmission and rear diff as a wrx and the sti and spec b have the same rear diff. Spec b has a slightly different 6spd trans though I believe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I don't believe they do. I can say that the fsm for 08 shows a different gearing but the same final drive. I thought the final drive on the lgt was 4.111 but my fsm says 3.9. I'm not the most knowledgeable on this but a different fifth gear with the same transfer reduction and same final drive means either different rear diff or different tires or maybe both? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. So I had looked through that and it suggests a +55 offset for both 7 and 7.5 which is the stock sizing for the lgt, which also uses a lower profile tire. I thought, extrapolating from this, I should stick with the stock +48 of the obxt. My hope is to buy some used rims during a December road trip through something like 15 states. Seemed like a good time. So I don't know exactly what width i might end up with. Mostly trying to understand if going with something would be bad. I'm guessing if I go up to 7.5 but use the 55 offset of an lgt I'd end up at the same line up of the outside of the wheel and the fender? Also wanted to make sure that the only real concern with all this is not hitting the fender or hitting the suspension. If that's the only concern then it makes everything easier. Although I'd like them to not be wider than the rally armor mud flaps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. So I've run out of stuff to look up while doing my rebuild, so I started thinking about wheels. I'd like to have two sets since I ski and we get a decent amount of snow. The stock wheels have... something wrong with them. I think it's just aesthetic but I plan to use those as winter wheels and get some summer wheels and tires. Stock ride height, upgrading to LGT brakes, no track use, light offroad like desert roads and some rocks and bumps, and spirited canyon drives. My questions though come to off set and things like that. The stock is 17x7 +48. Afaik that's only to match them to the extended flares on the outback. I have a set of michelin defenders 225/55/17 (stock size) that I'd like the wear through before buying new tires. So if I buy wheels that are a 17x7.5 is that an issue? If wheel width increases should I decrease my offset? I can find tons of info for the lgt but less for the obxt.
  21. I'd love to see some interior photos. Idk if interior photos are just hard to take or no one really cares but I'm working on what I want to do to mine and love the black interior.
  22. Yea not on a college budget. I barely managed to get speakers in my civic on a college budget but I guess it's all what you're after. I can tell you this though. New short block, machining and head rebuilds, turbo rebuild, I'm $4200. I've actually spent about 10k between tools parts and unnecessary stuff but haven't done my final tallies. Plan to do a necessary, good for maintenance, and total dollar amount once I'm done. That said if the cars in good shape you could probably sell it for 3-4k and buy a civic. Just thinking back to my college days but cars weren't my hobby then so it depends on what you need. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Nasioc is a bit obnoxious. Mostly wrx owners and lots of epeen and flaming. Some of the best answers I find are in old threads from banned users who give the answer sandwiched between insults of how dumb you are. Subaruoutback.org seems a lot more tame. Less performance oriented and lots of good info. For the wagons it seems like they are similar enough. But for technical info nasioc and here for sure. Lots of people here have multiple subarus. Covertrussian, maxcapacity, boxkita are some that come to mind that I find their threads helpful. Tehnation tends to chime in with good stuff as well as jmp and some of the shops in old threads. Max isn't angry all the time and at least had or has a civic race car, seems to know his stuff. Nasioc the unabomber manifesto links are great. But his stuff, uncle scotty, and some others come off unnecessarily rough and it's definitely boyracer wrx focused. Their sales forum is chock full of goodies though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Can't give help on the other two but for a normal short block replacement hueberger subaru shipped my a new one for $1900. I'd personally do that before eBay. Got a gasket kit and oil pump on the same order both much cheaper than msrp. For the turbo, if you're looking at a stock one and it's not in bad shape, contact jmp for a rebuild on yours. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. I thought obd2 ports were standardized internationally? It sounds like you can't find something that fits your car. If rhd and lhd are the same obd2 port I'd suggest something with btssm compatibility. I was under the impression that obd2 and eobd used the same port just not the same protocols. Idk what jdm uses. But I'm guessing by your name you still have a North American or European vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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