Nonamedude

They are in Seattle area. I think we are all waiting. I don't really have any money but I'm putting together a full black interior and idk if boxkita has any left over bits. Or just anything else interesting haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure how much the s402 style rear wagon strut bars go for but I think they are a drop in replacement (could be totally wrong) and I think there are some I've seen that go in and across wagon open area. My understanding is that strut bars don't do nearly as much as other things. I know this isn't what you asked about, but the car is nearly fifteen years old. What condition are your struts in? What about all the bushings rear and front? Top hats? You could do ky-b struts front, the 04 ky-b rears, and group n top hats and if you're still on all original items it'll feel like a new car. While you're in there, I'd replace any bushing you can get to and the lower control arms with mevotech ones (but maybe swap out that bushing that comes with them). All new bushings and dampers will make the car feel brand new again. Going to the previous Gen rear dampers will stiffen the rear slightly and the top hats all around will stiffen everything evenly. Replace lower control arms with lighter aluminum ones and same for trailing arms in the rear and you'll lose some unsprung mass. Overall you'll get all around better suspension with no ride height change and a touch more oversteer. (In theory. I have yet to do any of the things above I mention) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I definitely think the first thing is to tighten it, whether yourself or a shop of some sort, next step would be pull the cooler off and inspect that oring between the block and the cooler. Maybe you could try wiggling it or spinning it. Although I think it would need to be very loose for that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah that hose is coolant. The oil runs straight through the center I think. I'm not entirely sure on that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could just measure the inner diameter and go buy some rubber or silicone hosing from wherever. If it's pulled out of the inlet, make sure all the couplers are loose enough. I spent a while shoving and swearing just to figure out the clamp on the inlet was the tiniest bit too tight. Loosened it some and it slipped right in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a 24mm deep well to 40ft lbs. Which isn't extremely tight with a 1/2 ratchet or breaker. I always hesitate letting oil change places do anything since the last time I went to one they broke my hood latch release. It's actually been broken twice by two different places and I feel like that's the minimum they should know. That said it looks like it's coming around the cooler. Might be that seal, which is real cheap, or the whole cooler. There's nothing above it though. So unless it's running from the pan or down the front of the engine from somewhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My understanding is subaru is trying to move completely away from manuals. They can't use their safety suite with it for whatever reason. That was a while back and maybe they've changed their mind since. I wonder if you could swap an sti manual trans in. I'm sad about no hood scoop. I love the hood scoop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea that may be the route I go. I was under the impression that you want to get through engine break in before you tune. Also the cost. I was hoping to have it tuned before driving utah to Florida in December, but there's also 3 paychecks between now and then. Maybe I'll give them a call and see if they can get me in next week and if they do open source tunes. I don't have $1k for an AP and tune because I didn't put the tgv motors on correctly. Am I wrong about wanting to do break in before tuning? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm putting my engine back together (08 OBXT 5mt stock build) and hoping to get it in this weekend but have run into a bit of a snag. I'm nearly positive I didn't put the tgv actuators back on correctly. But I don't really want to pull it all back apart to fix it. The butterflies have been removed (so no airflow blockage) but the bars were left in place to try to avoid this problem. I thought it might be easier to just delete the CEL like a full tgv delete. Here's the problem I run into. I have an obd link mx and Android. I have ios. And I have a chromebook. I don't have an AP or a tactrix and my understanding is 08 can't use vagcom cables. My plan was to run the stock tune through break in and then take it to a local performance shop for a stage 1 reliability tune so I wouldn't have to mess with etuning. Are my only options to physically fix the tgv motors or get the equipment (borrow a laptop and tactrix) to fix this? I don't plan to get an AP. There's only 91 in my area and it's a dd so I don't see an advantage to switching maps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So my engine is back together. Planning to put it in after the cross race on Saturday but I realized I didn't get the tgv motors back on correctly so it's going to throw a code. I removed the butterflies so I'm not worried about the blockage and don't feel like ripping it all apart. Does anyone have a tactrix I could borrow or wanna come help me delete the codes for tgv and air pump Saturday afternoon or Sunday? I don't have an AP, tactrix, or windows computer. I can borrow a laptop but don't have money for the other two atm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I was also suggested simple performance for a good local place. I just wish I could use romraider and ecu flash from linux/ios/Android. I'll take a look around and see what I can find. Maybe I can get my mechanic buddy to come by with his work computer. Either way time to post in the local forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My understanding through reading through those is that I can't use a vagcom cable. So I'd need a tactrix (and new computer) or an AP for anything. I was planning to do a local tune since I don't have the stuff to etune and there's not a sticky or anything I can find specifically about deleting cel. It's one of the few times my chromebook has failed me. Thought about borrowing someone's laptop but not sure I want to do something to my car that I don't have easy access to do again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm I can't seem to find an answer but it seems like I can't use btssm to delete CEL. I'm thinking I need ecuflash and a tactic or a cobb AP. I already have an obdlink mx and don't own a windows computer. Maybe someone local can help me out to delete the codes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it's ready to go in the car. Everything is on and all the cables are routed. Flywheel and clutch are on. Intercooler fits, I know it needs to be off just test fitting it. Only issue is the secondary air pump doesn't line up. New oil dipstick tube is in the way. It's possible I got the wrong one and the angle is off. I also realized I almost certainly messed up the tgv motor and actuator. I didn't preload the spring tension, found that in another thread. There's no butterfly in it and I'd have to pull the whole thing apart so I'm thinking I'll just delete the CEL codes as if I did the full delete. Might get rid of the secondary air pump too if I'm going to be in there deleting codes. Not sure if that is something that shows up on emissions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait these cars are about self control? Shit. Shoulda told me before I ended up like uhhh 20k into it. And that's for a stage 0 build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That makes sense. If it's never been messed with before, unless the Spec B is different, it's got that damn bolt on the bottom side holding the fuel rails to the manifold. I just finished messing with mine about an hour ago and pretty sure I messed up the tgv motors. Wish I'd reassembled it off the car and put it back on as one piece which is how I got it out. Instead of trying to do it one thing at a time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol I'm trying to get him to buy yours! Yea as said it's more about just already being in there. I thought about painting mine but like you can barely see them. And yea the diy is not for the novice. Like if you're going that route, I would 100% make sure you have solid air tools. Even trying to dremel off the the friggin mud flap bolts was a PITA. For the price, if someone had already started it then I'd go for it. For engine bling, it's certainly cool but I think I'd do black with the intake manifold. It's that little thing there. The other is behind the turbo inlet. That one will be covered by the ac. But say you had gold tgv and purple fuel rails and covers. Yea I'd be way into that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea from what I can tell it's not really needed until north of 350hp. Maybe more. And even then it's a minimal thing. I think people mostly just don't like the idea of the tgv. I just pulled the butterfly valves off mine but I didn't really know what I was doing at first. Was a dumb decision, either go full tilt or leave them. I mainly say it because you'll need to go from side feed to top feed tgv anyway. And you're already modding the car and getting a tune so just delete the cel and spend the $150 for some deletes. The idea of using those sensors for inputs is something I hadn't heard of though and seems an interesting idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a super helpful response. I had to smash the brakes yesterday because neither myself nor the guy in front of me saw the person in the crosswalk. Was doing maybe 15mph and all I could think as my foot went through the super spongy feeling of my 270k 99 civic was **** I shoulda replaced the tires sooner. Confidence in braking has little to do with speed. These cars are hard to find and I certainly don't want to wreck mine. In the summer I'm up and down steep canyons 2-3 times a week and nearly every trip I smell someone who has cooked their brakes (granted because they don't know how to drive but still) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On fuel rails I've seen suggested running to the junkyard and getting oe ones from an 08-09 lgt or certain year sti. Don't remember the year. You'll also need top feed tgv. There were some for sale in the forums, or the aforementioned junkyard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea this is a thing. Pull out the banjo bolt before the turbo asap and give it an inspection. They shouldn't have needed a turbo so soon unless there was an oil starvation issue. Mine was 153k with minimal shaft play and a clean banjo filter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With much wailing and gnashing of teeth, got the turbo inlet in and all the hoses in place. I can't imagine trying that with the engine in the car. Hopefully nothing blows off first pull I do. There's some clear fitment issues with the gimmick one but I think I got it to work. Also got a good photo of the mounts on the correct way for future reference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't remember having to get those off to get the turbo out, but I just put mine back on and couldn't really get it there with everything around it being fully tight. Tgv, intake manifold, and I think the tgv motors off. My engine is out of the car so I just found it easier to unbolt it all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I got a good picture before disassembly of the TGV one. The more I think about it, the more I think that the TGV are identical so they just give you the bolt holes you need for both sides. I'm wondering if the one by the oil filler neck has to do with the secondary air pump. I didn't know what a lot of the stuff was when I started this so my bag labeling is lacking. I have a few bags that I'm looking at going that doesn't make any sense. I'm just waiting until I'm missing a bolt somewhere haha.

Fair enough. I'm armchairing it honestly. Mine doesn't even run and I've got no experiencing. Just soaking in info. It's certainly worth checking into but you're heading the right direction. And like boxkita said, find a good tuner. And certainly get a leak down and compression test. I wish I had, might have saved me $1k in towing from Kansas to Utah. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk