Nonamedude

I think it's the points mentioned above. I mean it's a 10+ year old car and it's not a civic. It's not exactly cheap as an economy car and it's not exactly a wrx. Sounds like from the description above I would have preferred a 3.0r haha. But I refuse to have an automatic. For only like 4k more my sister got a focus with 30k miles. (Disregard the transmission issues. Had I known I would have stopped her.) Might as well be brand new. I got a 153k mile outback that I flew cross country to buy and then it blew the engine halfway back. I'll be friggin 20k into the car by the time it's all done. Engine blew in June and it's almost done being rebuilt. The lgt is a niche car. I mean think about it. A nearly $10k car on a dedicated forum. We are all 30+ who wanted something extremely specific. (OK maybe not all) but the kids are on Honda tech and reddit and the kids with money are on nasioc and reddit and the older people with money are driving bmw and Porsche. Maybe I'm wrong but subies are kinda a niche in and of itself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh it's certainly what you're used to. There are a handful of cars out there faster than the lgt in the same era but it seems most are high end luxury cars or sports cars. I think, when these cars were new it was one thing, but I imagine nowadays at 10k more people are coming from cheap cars not things with big v6 in them. Could be wrong though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I drove a regular 09 outback before getting my xt. An automatic in TERRIBLE condition. Transmission seemed solid. Most people seem to think they are fine so I think it depends on what you want. I think you're looking at the wrong specs though. I'm pretty sure the h6 has 240ish hp. As for the awd, I find that any subie I've driven in snowy weather has been more than fine. But they aren't really a robust ohv. I don't think any of them have locking differentials just limited slip rears. Now my knowledge in that area isn't super great but the basics are it's a great passenger car but don't expect miracles 4 miles into the swamp. Maybe someone with an h6 can chime in on any issues they've had. Do they have better head gaskets than the na 2.5? Maybe look up on subaruoutback.org to see if there are common issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And speed is also relative. The first time I put my foot down on the obxt I nearly crapped my pants. I also decided to play around with a challenger on the highway as we raced from 80-120. He nosed me out some but not what I would have expected. If you're looking for a race car then a cheap one with issues shouldn't be a problem. If you're looking for a reliable daily driver, sit on your hands until a forum member gets rid of one that's been heavily gone through. If you're looking for a fast car, well there are a lot of fast cars around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you're really worried about speed and reliability then I don't think these are the vehicles for you. I can't imagine there is a huge difference in lgt wagons vs obxt but you can get an obxt with an aux port and steering wheel controls and telescoping steering wheel (I have short arms for my height). Oh and you can find them. I insisted on a manual and a wagon. Way easier and cheaper to find an unmodified obxt and lower it assuming you're planning to mod it anyway and want a manual and a wagon. That said the one I bought had a really good record of care and was super clean and well loved by the current owner who had two cars as it was for just one person. He gave me 30k miles worth of service records and there were no notable issues I could tell. Still blew the engine 1k miles later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It allows for an easy way to keep pressure on the strip while the glue sets up instead of trying to rest something on the windshield and hope it applies enough pressure and doesn't fall off or something. Either way should work fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Price seems to do a lot with location. In utah, that low of mileage with the 3.0 engine would likely go for 10k plus. In Florida it might be a bit high. Most of the problems seem to be with turbo models and related to the turbo itself. Other than head gaskets, which are a typical issue on higher mileage subarus but usually past 100k. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I feel like I've read so many threads about popping or clunking noises. Typical culprits seem to be lower control arm bushings (mine look absolutely terrible), end links (maybe you got a bad one out the box?), tie rods, and cv axles. I'd looking at those other two since you just did the tie rods and end links. Did you use oe parts or cheap autozone? I've seen sometimes that's the issue. I'd also go give your wheels a tug and see if there's any play there. Make sure your lugs are still tight. Doubt it but worth checking assuming you pulled the wheels to do any of this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well my concern is less about the oil pipe, looking at yours, it looks like the orientation is fine, almost right in line with the head gasket, I'll have to give it another look. But the flange where you have that bolt going through isn't lined up on mine. So either that flange isn't in the right orientation or the whole pipe is off. Most likely the pipe is rotated off some since that flange is brazed on the pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you don't have automatic climate controls, just look at Crutchfields website and they have a basic walk through with parts suggestions and what not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just realized that the oil return pipe is on the head and not the block so it obviously can be turned. I just worried because I know some people have experienced leaks from that pipe. I just don't know if the leaks are from the joint or the brazing and didn't want to weaken anything.

Ok perfect. Good tip, I may have just like gone for it and that would have been dumb and a lot of effort. Yea single mass flywheel, which is what the car has in the first place. I'd rather not use the torx bolts if I could avoid it.

I also just realized the bolts that came with my new flywheel are not the same torx plus bolts. They are a regular wrench head bolt. Is it ok to use those or do I have to use the torx bolts? Anyone know, I'm putting a list together of final small bits I need. More gaskets and hoses and such.

OK I thought it was welded on. Guess it's just a push it really hard thing? On the oil sensor, it's hard to see but there is still like 2 or 3 threads showing which was my concern, but if it's tapered that makes more sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also any suggestions on what to do about this? On my old photos the flange on the oil return lines up with that bolt hole and the coolant return bolts there. It doesn't look like it's possible to rotate... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm reassembling some stuff while I wait for more hoses and bolts and stuff to come in. The oil pressure sensor is being weird though. Should it sit flush? It's pretty snug. I cleaned the threads real good and put new sealer on. I don't have a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for my torque wrench but I'm pretty certain I'm at or over the 25 nm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I drained my coolant it was all very green. I didn't have the long life coolant in there and the older stuff is green. Don't think I've ever heard of color used to determine any of that stuff. Actually it was as green as the stuff in my civic which I know has a blown head gasket. Replacing a water pump is pretty involved. The reason people are saying to check the head gaskets is because it can force combustion gasses into the cooling system causing air pockets and over heating. The pressure can make it so your coolant backs up into your overflow res and the air pockets get weird and can prevent the thermostat from opening correctly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A picture of my head. This was the bad one but you can see on the cylinder that was fairing better that the deposits are only on one side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know how many people are changing out valves on the NA vehicles, my understanding is the issue with exhaust valves is mainly an issue on the turbo vehicles due to the open/close delay causing the engine to run lean and burn the exhaust valves. I just had mine replaced since they were nasty when I got the engine to the machine shop for the short block swap. I was advised that they usually end up needing to rebuild the heads on these cars (turbo ej) and that they usually go for high temp slightly oversize valves. This helps with the burn issue and the construction helps exhaust a little better. I was told the only advantage in getting more robust valves on the intake was to help flow the air in better and wouldn't matter until very high levels of boost.

Well to answer your original question, thermostats are pretty basic. If yours is bad it'll either fail closed or leak. If it fails closed, it will cause your car to overheat but it's not the quickest thing ever. If it's over heating extremely quickly, it could very well be a blown headgasket. Test for hydrocarbons as suggested. It's a cheap and easy to do test kit and you can do it on your own. And I agree, don't go chasing a misfire if you can't prevent the car from overheating. Injectors are expensive and sometimes they do go bad but my injectors have 153k on them and I just flow tested them and they were basically perfect. If you end up needing head gaskets, the whole thing will have to get disassembled and you can futz with injectors then but depending on mileage and condition, well those aren't cheap repairs.

Is that an issue with aftermarket catted DP? We never had emissions in florida and I've only done it once here. I don't recall seeing a serial number on my dp when I removed it.

Will it not pass without that? The cat on my civic is blown and missing it's tail pipe yet it still passes emissions. I've got an obd reader that can check it if you're unsure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could you use outback spec stuff? I don't remember if they make outback coil overs and can't remember the exact differences. If not though you could maybe do the normal outback upgrade of King springs in the front and prior gen rears with king springs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He suggested it should be fine on the stock tune but yes I suppose you're correct. My plan had been to run the stock tune through break in and then go get dyno tuned. I don't have a windows computer so an etune seems like a pita Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had him rebuild my Vf-46. He currently does the vf 40/46 as well as the 39/43/48/52. He'll do a normal rebuild or for a little bit more he does a rebuild with an inconel turbine/shaft, some polishing, and some clean up and painting to keep it looking nice for a bit. I had him do the better rebuild which should spool up a little faster and he claims is good to 20psi, which I know is more than the stock tmic can handle anyway. He did a good job and it was fast. Sent lots of reinstall instructions and was helpful with suggestions. Everything everyone here claims him to be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk